electrosoft

Nice! Not golden, but definitely WAY above average, congrats! On your setup lidded, it will be interesting to see how close it is to the "Junker" SP99 you're testing out atm.

Oh, might be a banger! Post the V/F and MC shots. 🙂

Stock run no OCs on anything and on my bloaty install with browser and stuff running..... (Set the baseline as low and bloaty/non OC as possible): https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/111942073

Make sure to turn that garbage OFF (from my settings) as it defaults to on of course. Insane. This and other things should always be opt in. There needs to be laws on book that everything has to default to opt out and an end user must explicitly select to opt in.

$700-800 on fleabay is what they go for routinely especially with 32GB of memory but you know if you want to work a trade of sorts......wink wink. nudge nudge. 🤣

After having upgraded my daughter's and nephew's systems, had enough components to slap together a little Fortnite monster in a new budget Raidmax case (with peel still intact 🤣) Asus Prime B660 D4 12400 3060ti 16GB (RGB) or 32GB (non-RGB) of G.Skill DDR4 500GB of scintillating storage GX2 600w PSU Raidmax RGB case This one will be going up on FB and eBay My daughter's system is slowly coming together as I'm taking my time and hand selecting all the components but it is definitely an ode to AMD from top to bottom unlike my desktop color scheme that now reflects AMD (CPU) and Nvidia (GPU) with new colors from my standard purple for everything (with EVGA cable tie since I'm still running the 1600 P2 from EVGA).

4080 or 4090 laptops are pretty slick and pack a punch. Imagine walking around with a 4090 laptop with the power of the last gen $2000 3090ti under the hood. I fancy the MSI Titan, but that price...... There is an Asus G18 13980HX + 4080 for sale open box close out at our local BB for ~$1500 I keep telling myself I don't need to go round 3 with Asus and the G18. As for moving away from DD, is that why you're selling your R batch and just going back to a standard OEM lidded chip to avoid the hassle and issues? Do you regret delidding the R batch? I was re-watching your video on the tubez here: I can see where you need D2D reliability and your chiller can really tame a stock OEM chip that DD can be a hassle. I'll inbox you to talk about it and pricing.

Ah, thanks for the clarity bro. Do you have a link to the video and Taobao? I can update the launch page. Just read it. Nice write up! Looking forward to some pics and more inside spelunking along with optimizations to see what you can extract from it.

Nice write up! I l really do want a Titan but that price point is insane. Would love to see a real side by side comparison with a Titan to see what you're really getting as it looks like they use the same MB minus an m.2 slot, vapor chamber and maybe some external aesthetics/ergonomics?

Do you have a link to the YT video? Please clarify. 🙂

Beautiful pic @Papusan! Food looks yummy too. 🙂 I always liked the 11900k frankenchip. If anyone is interested in a 14900KS, Alexandrus has 4-5 good ones up for sale (SP104 to SP110): https://www.overclock.net/threads/eu-i9-14900ks-sp-104-overall-118-pcore-76-ecore-77-mc-delidded-lapped.1810822/ I PM'ed him on a few of them that look tasty.

Maybe talk to Prema as he was able to make some major inroads with the BIOS on the NH55 working with @jaybee83. I'm not sure what's up next. Releasing the full fat 12900 definitely knocked a bit of luster off of the separation between the NH55 and other BGA laptops. Agreed on all points about the state of laptops atm. 😞 I have had over 10 laptops sent to me from Acer, MSI, Dell and Asus (in that order), and they all are basically the same approach. At least the Ultra 7 laptop Asus sent me has much better battery life than previous Intel T&L models. Oh, the Aliexpress links are still on the launch page for the whole replacement heatsink here. Unlike the PSUs, their prices have not really gone down.

Sorry to blow up your spot @anassa 🤣 They are actually these I have my buddy cutting down to fit along the small islands around the heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CTCL9QN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also want to try some other flatter designs along the pipes themselves for testing for a little more passive cooling so the fans and heatsink overall don't get so overwhelmed. I remember doing a lot of testing with my MSI MS-1722 QX9300 back in the day and it definitely helped keep it from going over the edge. I know the best move is to unhinge the wallet and order the much thicker and better one from Aliexpress, but I just can't justify $320-350 for it......yet. 🤣 Seeing the killowatt meter hit 200w+ just on CPU was definitely a, "whoa...." moment on such a small little notebook. I'd like to run some simultaneous tests but it won't be something stupid like furmark + prime95. I don't want to kill the darn thing! Remind me back in the day when we uncapped our i7-940xm in the M15x and it was pulling almost 200w running prime95 + furmark for funsies. I posted a video 13yrs ago for the forums on YT:

Besides @tps3443 and his 14900k, does anyone have a 13900k/14900k with a V/F point at 4200/4300 <0.970 or below? I've seen a few out in the wild and the lowest I've seen is 0.964. Starting the preliminary work for binning a chip for the NH55 laptop to add to my collection. 🙂

I still like to tinker with it plus it has really nice performance. I'm going to dial in the 3070ti next but really the best upgrade is most likely the aftermarket heatsink but they're still $300+. On the other hand, the 330w PSU is down to ~$68 so I might need to order one of those seeing as the CPU was pulling 200w from the wall all by itself. 13900k/14900k is the ideal end game but that aftermarket heatsink (or modified stock heatsink) would be near mandatory along with a chip that has a V/F curve at <0.970 at the 4300 point and hopefully not a bleeder and hot. Some more work on a good BIOS would be nice too but something tells me the Socket 1700 NH55 wasn't exactly a massive seller for Clevo. 🙂 Testing the same 12900k on a motherboard with cooling removed as an issue and locking in PL125w limits and DDR4 memory locked in at 3200 for comparison: EDIT: If someone is interested in a barebones NH55, there is one up for bid on eBay. PC Specialist model open box. Might be able to get it for a good price. This is the 3070ti model so top end: https://www.ebay.com/itm/335391388254

Welcome back bro! I saw your video the other day cleaning out your block/loop. 🙂

Ditto. I needed a few drives so I picked up some open box 980 Pro's for a fraction of the cost and full warranties. Until they can figure out how to get Optane level Random I/O+ on NVME, I'll stick with Gen3/4 drives.

Give the thread a bump Pulling 200w+ from the wall (Kilowatt meter) on a CB23 run before I start testing heatsink placements for some passive cooling.... Any updates @jaybee83 on BIOS thangs or holding steady atm?

It's your $$$ bro. If I feel ANY need to return an item, I do. Many moons ago I actually felt bad returning some items but then I realized money doesn't grow on trees and I want 100% satisfaction for big ticket purchases especially. Now you can sit back and decide what you want next if at all.

5700xt was that nice, well priced, calm before the storm of 6000 series. I used one for a year for 2560x1600 gaming and it held up very well for WoW before the engine revamp from Blizzard. If AMD needs a timeout again because Nvidia is just firing on cylinders atm, I get it. 🙂 I'm still waiting on a few parts to finish my daughter's Team AMD total rebuild with the Powercolor white 7900xtx. I ended up changing everything when all was said and done.

Finding that sweet spot for power limits especially on laptops is a good thing for the CPU and GPU I always lock my frames even on desktop. Thereis no reason to abuse the GPU for those massive spikes (and heat, pull, noise) and work for a consistent window of performance. For me it is ~144fps as my locked point even on this 240hz killer display. Best way to test air flow is to try your laptop with the bottom off and on to give you an idea of how much airflow is being compromised and adjust accordingly (IE, cooling pad for more forced injection or modding the bottom to allow more air flow). Yep, boost clocks aren't always the end of all even on desktop use especially if your being GPU limited in many scenarios. Those temps are very good for laptop use. Down the road, cracking it open and using PT7950 or LM will probably net you even better cooling along with maybe analyzing the heatsink and cross airflow to invest in some low profile heatsinks strategically placed for extra heat dissipation. e-cores are a tricky thing. Some games love them and other don't. Also see if Intel's APB software can be used to increase performance. Best to test with them off and on per game to see if it's worth disabling them. You may find down the road as you address hardware cooling limitations and UV table unlocks become available, you'll be able to boost performance as needed. A good 13900hx setup should be hitting 32k+ in CB23 but you can address that later if needed depending on needs/desires. If you're hitting 18k+ in TS and gaming with those temps you are good to go atm. And as always, if you're unhappy, be wary of your return window. 🙂

Take away from this video is the massive increases in performance AMD has brought to the table in two generations from the 3600 to the 7600 (along with the argument that 6 cores is the sweet spot for gaming):

If it's any consolation, massive gains are gone on the desktop too with AMD, Intel and Nvidia using dynamic boosting to allow users to get a massive amount of clocking out of their chips and allowing each piece of silicon to smartly boost as much as possible based upon cooling, power and silicon quality. What's the warranty on it? That's more important than many other factors. 🙂

You're getting ~3080ti performance w/ 4000 series benefits (DLSS, FG, etc...) along with more than enough CPU power. It can definitely do 4k but if you want to lock in 120fps you will just need to dial in your settings to find the perfect balance per game just as you would on a desktop. I had to adjust the wife's settings in WoW even for 1440p to keep her fps consistently above 100fps at all times on her 32" 165hs display. It is doable. Like I said before, when I was stuck with a 3060 and a 3070 between my 3090 FE and 3090 KPE, I just massively dialed down my expectations/settings and I was able to game at 4k but it was ugly and I couldn't wait for my 3090 KPE queue to pop so I could get one ASAP. 🙂 If you keep it, shed 4-5 of your other laptops and keep one that has perfect portability and your gaming monster, bank the $$$ and call it a wrap. It is a market reality and the masses have spoken. Most people do not want to lug around tanks or tinker with their hardware but they do want decent performance. They want to plug it in, boot it up and go and there's nothing wrong with that. Everybody's built different. Having tested several thinner and lighter gaming laptops over the last few years or so sent to me for evaluation from Acer, Asus. MSI and Dell/Alienware, I can fully attest to the fact they do start up, setup and work relatively just fine and can game right out of the box and for most users that is all they want to do. Everybody I know (or just about everybody) in normal day to day life just wants to flick a switch and go and that's ok. Just like some want to just get behind the wheel of their car and go and that's ok too. 🙂 For myself, I see immediate areas of overheating, overvolting, poor cooling implementation, bios restrictions, bad memory selection (horrific timings or only including one module), bloatware, restrictive software and more and I have to separate MY reality from the average users reality when evaluating them because it isn't realistic unless it is such a gross abuse of design decisions that I need to address it. I really lament the loss of choice in regards to having at least one or two tanks available for us who like both. 😞 Just give me a P870'esque chassis with a Prema level BIOS and modern desktop hardware along with MXM level options beyond Ampere and I'm good to go. I love binning parts and tinkering inside while spelunking around the BIOS to dial everything in as much as possible but that has slowly eroded over the years to the point of near non-existence.

Intel's design spec like AMDs now allows and encourages CPUs to run up to 100c and 95c respectively. Our job is to maximize the cooling solution (IE fix flaws off the assembly line and/or beef up the cooler) and tune a UV if able to extract maximum performance under that thermal envelope. 🙂 In terms of full control of our laptops out of box and allowed by the makers, MSI reigns supreme in their Titan series as it is basically their desktop BIOS on a laptop. Second is Asus as they do provide some control including a BIOS level UV but it is neutered compared to their full desktop experience. Some of the Clevo models do have modified BIOSes to a degree but anything post 11th gen X170SM/KM hardware wise is thin and light in design in comparison except maybe the Titan which is a behemoth. If it wasn't so darn expensive I would consider getting one but it is stupidly expensive It still comes down to are you happy playing with dialed down settings? If so, even a 3060 will get you by in most cases. I'm a glutton for eye candy and max settings. Others don't care and it's about playing and that's it. Most fall somewhere in between. That's a nice chunk of doubloons you splashed out for that laptop. If you're not 100% happy, return it and contemplate do you want to wait for another laptop or buy a pre-built or slowly start building out a desktop.