ADLINK RTX 3000 MXM suddenly died?

[Hussain Alhadher]

Hi guys,

My RTX 3000 suddenly shut the laptop off while gaming.

Now the charger LED goes out immediately when I plug it into the laptop with the RTX installed.

I tested with battery removed and i had the same issue 

I removed the RTX and the charger light stays on 

I plugged in my old 765m in and charger works normally 

 

So it looks like the fault is on the RTX 3000 itself.

I don’t see any obvious burnt components. Could it be a shorted mosfet or capacitor or vrm component, and is this usually repairable?

[SuperMG]

1 hour ago, Hussain Alhadher said:

Hi guys,

My RTX 3000 suddenly shut the laptop off while gaming.

Now the charger LED goes out immediately when I plug it into the laptop with the RTX installed.

I tested with battery removed and i had the same issue 

I removed the RTX and the charger light stays on 

I plugged in my old 765m in and charger works normally 

 

So it looks like the fault is on the RTX 3000 itself.

I don’t see any obvious burnt components. Could it be a shorted mosfet or capacitor or vrm component, and is this usually repairable?

Maybe it's shorting between the heatsink and the GPU's components? Happened to me. Make sure to have a properly set heatsink with the correct thermal pads.

 

No burn marks on the tiny capacitors?

 

Was your GPU heavily thermal throttling before?

 

If it's completely dead then...

 

There are options to upgrade to a 120Hz display and to a better RTX 4060/4070 card.

[Hussain Alhadher]

[Hussain Alhadher]

[Hussain Alhadher]

I also thought it could be the heatsink, but I tested the RTX installed without the heatsink with the laptop powered off and just plugging in the charger still makes the charger LED shut off. With the RTX removed, or with my GTX 765M installed, the charger works normally.

I don’t see any obvious burnt capacitors either. Before it died the GPU was usually around 68–72°C at 96–99% load, so it was performing well and wasn’t heavily thermal throttling.

So I’m thinking there may be a short somewhere on the RTX board itself.

[SuperMG]

19 minutes ago, Hussain Alhadher said:

I also thought it could be the heatsink, but I tested the RTX installed without the heatsink with the laptop powered off and just plugging in the charger still makes the charger LED shut off. With the RTX removed, or with my GTX 765M installed, the charger works normally.

I don’t see any obvious burnt capacitors either. Before it died the GPU was usually around 68–72°C at 96–99% load, so it was performing well and wasn’t heavily thermal throttling.

So I’m thinking there may be a short somewhere on the RTX board itself.

Can you use some kapton tape to cover the X-bracket metallic zone? And retry?

 

Does your motherboard still have the black plastic filter next to the MXM slot? It's to avoid short-circuit.

[Hussain Alhadher]

The black plastic insulation next to the MXM slot is still there. I also insulated the X-bracket area with a tape but the charger still trips. With the RTX removed or the GTX 765M installed, the charger works normally. So it looks more like a short on the RTX board itself.

[SuperMG]

2 minutes ago, Hussain Alhadher said:

The black plastic insulation next to the MXM slot is still there. I also insulated the X-bracket area with a tape but the charger still trips. With the RTX removed or the GTX 765M installed, the charger works normally. So it looks more like a short on the RTX board itself.

You should look with the multi-meter, every components then... But is it worth it?

 

Did you buy the card brand new or used? How was it used before?

[Hussain Alhadher]

I bought it back in May as open box condition from ebay for $305, so I don’t really know how it was used before I got it.

It worked fine for me and temps were usually around 68–72°C under load, then it suddenly shut off while gaming.

And I don’t have a multimeter to check the components🫤.

 

[Hussain Alhadher]

Here’s the link from ebay

https://ebay.io/m/S2OXcM

[SuperMG]

2 minutes ago, Hussain Alhadher said:

I bought it back in May as open box condition from ebay for $305, so I don’t really know how it was used before I got it.

It worked fine for me and temps were usually around 68–72°C under load, then it suddenly shut off while gaming.

And I don’t have a multimeter to check the components🫤.

 

For that price and with a bit of extra money, you could have bought the RTX 3060 or 4060 MXM! RTX 3000 = RTX 2060 Mobile.

 

I sell an RTX 4070 MXM, compatible with 120Hz M17X R4 and AW17 R1.

 

Any warranty of the 3000?

[Hussain Alhadher]

At that time I didn’t really know what else I would need to change. My M17x R4 has the 60Hz LVDS display and the 3-pipe heatsink, so I wasn’t sure what would be required for a 3060/4060 upgrade. That’s why the RTX 3000 seemed like the safer option at the time.

Unfortunately I don’t think I have any warranty on the 3000.

[Hussain Alhadher]

I’d like to upgrade to the best GPU I can if i got a very good deal, but I’m worried about the bottleneck and whether the performance would really be worth it with the 3940XM. I’m also not sure if it’s worth doing the whole 120Hz eDP cable setup and all the other modifications.

[SuperMG]

3 hours ago, Hussain Alhadher said:

I’d like to upgrade to the best GPU I can if i got a very good deal, but I’m worried about the bottleneck and whether the performance would really be worth it with the 3940XM. I’m also not sure if it’s worth doing the whole 120Hz eDP cable setup and all the other modifications.

You can get the Alienware 17 R1 120Hz, sliderfra has one. It has AVX 2 instructions for the CPU and it's compatible with RTX PEG. You can sell back the M17X R4 if you want or not.