HP Elitebook 8570W - is it still good ? Hardware modifications

[KbX]

Nice to hear from you guitarG!

I read everything from the beginning!

That looks too small for me to do.

I might take your idea of using some good speakers with an amplifier connected to the card slot…

For now, I’m working on my cooling solution for the GPU, but I’m missing a drilling machine to do the upper plate. it might arrive next week. is there some place on gpu where I can tap 4v for a mosfet to run some fans ?

If I understood well, you just put a new BIOS to use 2133 MHz RAM.

How did you manage to use 1867 MHz on yours? Because my i7-3940XM arrived, but I don’t feel much difference, and these memories for now seem like money thrown away.

[GuitarG]

11 hours ago, KbX said:

Nice to hear from you guitarG!

I read everything from the beginning!

That looks too small for me to do.

I might take your idea of using some good speakers with an amplifier connected to the card slot…

For now, I’m working on my cooling solution for the GPU, but I’m missing a drilling machine to do the upper plate. it might arrive next week. is there some place on gpu where I can tap 4v for a mosfet to run some fans ?

If I understood well, you just put a new BIOS to use 2133 MHz RAM.

How did you manage to use 1867 MHz on yours? Because my i7-3940XM arrived, but I don’t feel much difference, and these memories for now seem like money thrown away.

1866 and 2133 RAM works out of box, no bios mod needed. 
Try finding 8560w boardview and using openboard viewer on internet, it would help finding voltages a lot (8560w and 8570w are almost same layouts).

From my experience, 980M gained twice performance on modded heatsink. I advise to remove keyboard for better cooling operation till you make one.

[frelu]

14 hours ago, KbX said:

Nice to hear from you guitarG!

I read everything from the beginning!

That looks too small for me to do.

I might take your idea of using some good speakers with an amplifier connected to the card slot…

For now, I’m working on my cooling solution for the GPU, but I’m missing a drilling machine to do the upper plate. it might arrive next week. is there some place on gpu where I can tap 4v for a mosfet to run some fans ?

If I understood well, you just put a new BIOS to use 2133 MHz RAM.

How did you manage to use 1867 MHz on yours? Because my i7-3940XM arrived, but I don’t feel much difference, and these memories for now seem like money thrown away.

What is that copper sheet? can you share some more photos and info how it's attached? [GPU]

[Vladka76]

On 11/14/2025 at 11:18 PM, KbX said:

How did you manage to use 1867 MHz on yours?

I'm very sorry, but what frequency memory modules do you have installed? 1600 MHz or 1866 MHz? Model name HX316... or HX318...? Those symbols are hard to read.

Unfortunately, in any case, these are new, but counterfeit chinese modules, unlikely to be made by Kingston (the OCR incorrectly recognized, meaningless word "DIMSION" is clearly visible). I recently encountered two such modules, supposedly running at 1866 MHz: one with Samsung chips, the other with Micron chips, as in your case. Both worked fine, but... at 1600 MHz. 🙂 I tested them on two laptops with i7 CPUs (hp 8770w and Dell E6540). Moreover, the markings on the Samsung chips indicated that they were officially 1600 MHz (but the Micron chips were officially 1866 MHz).
Check the actual memory frequency on the BIOS startup screen or using CPU-Z (see the "Memory" and "SPD" tabs). If there you'll see 1600 MHz (or near 800 MHz real frequency value), but you bought 1866 MHz, return those modules and look for genuine Kingston modules with Kingston chips, manufactured between 2017 and 2021. I was lucky enough to find three of these, and they work perfectly at 1866 MHz.

Below is a my own photo of two modules (the original on top, the counterfeit on the bottom).
Find 4-5 differences. 🙂

[Vladka76]

Here's a photo of Samsung chips and a screenshot of their datasheet.
Beware of such memory!

[KbX]

Thank you! What a scam! I wouldn’t have noticed it on my own. I just asked for a refund and said they were fake. I might have to send them back to China.

mistakes are expensive! Thanks!

Got also to rethink my heatsink. The computer doesn’t turn on, just a black screen. Without it, everything runs normal. I consider myself lucky, because I applied too much pressure on the GPU while measuring the plate and even bending it in place. If it shorted or broke, it would be game over, and it’s still working, so I need to rethink the measurements so it sits right, with minimal pressure on the bolts and GPU.

I already had it working with just the lower plate and some thermal pads, so it is possible to use the upper plate touching the original heatsink as well. The GPU will always stay a bit curved because it’s sitting on the CD/DVD bay connector. I believe it’s possible anyway.
(I once had a phone that got smashed by a car wheel and stayed curved like the wheel. It kept working after I changed the screen, and the new screen forced the whole phone flat again.)

Do you think I have the GPU shorting somewhere I can’t see but still not fully damaged, or could it just be the connection not letting the GPU go in far enough?

Thanks for everything!

[KbX]

[GuitarG]

Definitely desolder dvd connector, mxm board will bend overtime and stop working. Especially with heatsink attached.
Smartphones have very small board, so it's less prone to bend issue. 

[KbX]

Thanks! I tried to grind it to the minimum size, but I might desolder it and find out which pins have 5 and 12 volts to connect the fans… I was trying to avoid disassemble everything...

[GuitarG]

Actually you can carefully *delete* that connector with pliers, no need to dissasembly whole laptop.

If you would like to use that SATA port then it would be possible to route cables elsewhere

[Daedalus]

On 11/16/2025 at 6:29 AM, Vladka76 said:

Here's a photo of Samsung chips and a screenshot of their datasheet.
Beware of such memory!

Yep, i got stung for that too. 4x 8gb sticks "DIMISION" not great. branded 1866, clock runs them at 798, so 1600's reclothed with a fancy sticker. Micron chips but three benchtest apps report as 1600. They dont report all detail in CPUz either....

Damn.... 

 

[erikmiskolin]

Uhm guys can someone else with the same screen confirm this? I have the 8570w with the worst screen option 1600x900, and i was messing around with monitor hz overclocking, on 60hz panels usually the most you get is around 75ish (from my experience).... So i played around and found out the limit is 131hz😭😭😭 i dont know how, i also tested it in battlefield 4 for around 30min and it is stable with no artifacts

[Vladka76]

7 hours ago, Daedalus said:

Yep, i got stung for that too. 4x 8gb sticks "DIMISION" not great. branded 1866, clock runs them at 798, so 1600's reclothed with a fancy sticker. Micron chips but three benchtest apps report as 1600. They dont report all detail in CPUz either....

Damn.... 

 

Interesting. The FBGA code "D9RVX" on your chips means the model name MT41K512M8RG-107:N, officially also 1866 (from the datasheet: the "-107" marking = option "1.07ns@CL=13 (DDR3-1866)"). This chip's frequency is the same as one I've encountered, but the FBGA code on those I've seen was slightly different from this one.
What's preventing good memory chips from running at full speed? Perhaps poor-quality resistor arrays on the data buses (all my original modules have ceramic, white resistor arrays)? Or the firmware on the SPD flash IC? It's sad. This is often the case with the Chinese – they copy almost everything well, but somewhere there's always a flaw that ruins everything...

Another my photo. 🙂 Compare the quality of the sticker on the other side of the two modules (original on top, counterfeit on the bottom). The original has an aluminum base and a black ink printing, while the counterfeit has a paper base and white ink with a low-resolution print. And a resistor arrays are different in color and material...

[Daedalus]

On 11/17/2025 at 6:30 PM, Vladka76 said:

Interesting. The FBGA code "D9RVX" on your chips means the model name MT41K512M8RG-107:N, officially also 1866 (from the datasheet: the "-107" marking = option "1.07ns@CL=13 (DDR3-1866)"). This chip's frequency is the same as one I've encountered, but the FBGA code on those I've seen was slightly different from this one.
What's preventing good memory chips from running at full speed? Perhaps poor-quality resistor arrays on the data buses (all my original modules have ceramic, white resistor arrays)? Or the firmware on the SPD flash IC? It's sad. This is often the case with the Chinese – they copy almost everything well, but somewhere there's always a flaw that ruins everything...

Another my photo. 🙂 Compare the quality of the sticker on the other side of the two modules (original on top, counterfeit on the bottom). The original has an aluminum base and a black ink printing, while the counterfeit has a paper base and white ink with a low-resolution print. And a resistor arrays are different in color and material...

Seeing as I have some VKLO sticks I know are at 1600. I’m tempted to see if I can push these hokey hyperx to 1866 or 2133 via clocking. Wouldn’t have been so bad if they actually ran 1866 but were fake. Yeah checking codes made me think they were good with a bad sticker, I see others have pushed to faster (assume they are proper hyperx sticks). Any programs you would recommend as i don’t recall any bios settings for OC?

just to prove/disprove my theory. I’ve found on ebay in my country an apparent genuine set. But they have black chips not white like yours @Vladka76

[KbX]

those "dimsion" were exactly what i had. i think they were running a bit faster than the 1600mhz, see my CPU-Z, thats why i thought it was some wrong config. now i can only find used ones, i might buy just 2 sticks to try to see the diference in games.

@erikmiskolin : nice to know you got it running 130hz, maximum i tried on my 1920x1080 was 75hz, but surely it can do more, my GTX 980 does not worths the efort of screen, so i try to play at 60fps with good image quality.

i also managed to get my heat sink on, couldn"t dissolder pins (my solder pen is also fake from china)just removed the plastic and used super glue to attach the cables to the pins(no 12v, just 3v, 5v)and white termal glue EC360 to prevent shorts.GPU stays a bit lifted but straight. i always watched "GPU Hot spot point" temp before, never puted to mutch atention on core temperature.

my fans didnt arrived yet, i am using a fan pad, but now, "Hot spot temp" stable at 90º or less, before i had-it sometimes at 95º and fans runnig fast and loud, core temp mutch more stable at 75º.new termal paste "hydronaut" but not well spreaded, it was just to testing, but i feel i can keep testing 😋 i can have all the fans at half of the speed than before, and now i can overclock GPU more, i am using core clock +81 and momory +190, no shutdowns, im playing witcher 3 at medium graphics 30/40 fps and destiny 2 at medium, 60 fps, can go to 40 fps in dense areas. 550 points on 3DMark demo, can do more with the overclock, but not stable for games. (record is 727 with same hardware, how?)

i never see CPU reach 55w in games and 3.9 ghz, just 3.7ghz 3.8 some threads, coud it be cause of the cheap PSU 230w from china?

i never letted GPU throttle, witch sensor makes it throttle at 101º? Hot Spot temp or core temp?

Sory for my English

[KbX]

I'm waiting for the fans to arrive to disassemble everything again, and bend the upper plate down, closer to the gpu and do do another cut to be able to close the case

[Daedalus]

18 hours ago, KbX said:

those "dimsion" were exactly what i had. i think they were running a bit faster than the 1600mhz, see my CPU-Z, thats why i thought it was some wrong config. now i can only find used ones, i might buy just 2 sticks to try to see the diference in games.

@erikmiskolin : nice to know you got it running 130hz, maximum i tried on my 1920x1080 was 75hz, but surely it can do more, my GTX 980 does not worths the efort of screen, so i try to play at 60fps with good image quality.

i also managed to get my heat sink on, couldn"t dissolder pins (my solder pen is also fake from china)just removed the plastic and used super glue to attach the cables to the pins(no 12v, just 3v, 5v)and white termal glue EC360 to prevent shorts.GPU stays a bit lifted but straight. i always watched "GPU Hot spot point" temp before, never puted to mutch atention on core temperature.

my fans didnt arrived yet, i am using a fan pad, but now, "Hot spot temp" stable at 90º or less, before i had-it sometimes at 95º and fans runnig fast and loud, core temp mutch more stable at 75º.new termal paste "hydronaut" but not well spreaded, it was just to testing, but i feel i can keep testing 😋 i can have all the fans at half of the speed than before, and now i can overclock GPU more, i am using core clock +81 and momory +190, no shutdowns, im playing witcher 3 at medium graphics 30/40 fps and destiny 2 at medium, 60 fps, can go to 40 fps in dense areas. 550 points on 3DMark demo, can do more with the overclock, but not stable for games. (record is 727 with same hardware, how?)

i never see CPU reach 55w in games and 3.9 ghz, just 3.7ghz 3.8 some threads, coud it be cause of the cheap PSU 230w from china?

i never letted GPU throttle, witch sensor makes it throttle at 101º? Hot Spot temp or core temp?

Sory for my English

Do you happen to have the pinout for the DVD port, will be adding the lines for 2nd fan if the JST splitter option off the CPU fan port doesnt give the correct results (although i read the CPU fan port could take more load)
Interesting on your CPU-z screen there, my VKLO gave full details, the fakey DIMISION HyperX give nothing in the timings table in ver 2.15 updated to 2.16 and get more details, . Memtest verifies as 1600's though.

I think your temps are fine due to sheer copper mass and surface area.  I reccomend getting the 8770W heatsink so you can cool via the chips and xbracket though. Seen those on Ali. That would mean the copper plate you can just use a heatpipe to route to your second fan to exhaust out the DVD bay like @GuitarG has.