tps3443

I’m interested in that bios 🤩! Could you email it to me? Thats for the white Apex right? I see you linked it! Never mind. Thank you.

This will be a test of its ability for sure. So far so good. No power shutdowns. It is a quality 1000 watt unit. I don’t think I’d ever need two PSU’s though. I have not had the best luck with power supplies. Seasonic 1200w Platinum (Power shutdowns at 700-800 watt loads) EVGA 1300G+ (Popped and smoked after 1 day) EVGA 1300P+ (Reliable but with coil whine, higher the frame rate the louder it was) Snack Sized MSI 1000W (So far so good lol) My CPU is very efficient 303 watts R23@5.9/4.8/5.0 auto voltage LLC4 The GPU can consume 380+ watts under a heavy overclock, but stock its sub 300 watts in 4K. D5 pumps typically use a max of 37 watts apparently, but I have an Aqua Computer D5 pump and at 100% or 4800RPM it only consumes 20 watts of power. So my pumps probably use 100 watts together all (5) of them. I have (2) 2TB M.2 SSD’s, and I use (1) 120MM fan. The PSU can handle about 1200 watts in a warm environment before kicking off. But I don’t think I can get near its limits. I know it’s tiny, and I know it’s kinda hilarious. And if it fails, I will go get me a big dog 1600 PSU lol. But I really don’t think I need more than a 1,000 watt.

😆yeah yeah Laugh it up I know. I know. But hey, at least it’s built properly and has silent operation 😃

Don’t laugh guys! lol. 🤣 This tiny little baby PSU is actually working great! Completely silent! No coil whine at all.

I use the ISO creation tool which is nice not sure which one it is. I can disable the TPM 2.0, and create a local account for the install. And when I load windows the first time it already has a local account made with no password, you better set a password before restarting windows during the first time loading after the “Getting things ready for you” or else you can’t login after a reboot because it’s a local account created with no password assigned, and you’ll have to reinstall windows all over again lol. TPM security is smart but stupid at the same time I think. Smart because back in the day you could just plug in someone’s HDD and use it on your PC. But it also sucks because flipping over to my motherboards bios position can trip the TPM and break my OS.

Thats really cool. I have been putting this off too long and I’m building my son a system right now. I’m not sure if I’m going to re-use an old Z490+DDR4 setup I have and grab a used 10900K and start with that. Or maybe I just go for a newer Intel system all together. I’m looking at 10900K prices and they seem a bit too expensive.

Lots of cool stuff coming out! I want one of those MSI Mpower Z790 2 slot boards, I didn’t know those were even coming out. I mean, I can already see 8200c36+ happening on that little cheap board easily. And for only $199.99 that leaves more money for CPU/GPU budget! How smart of MSI to offer a bare bones 2 dimm motherboard catered to overclocking for cheap. 😁

Yep lol. I probably should have just bought a 4090. I already have funds tied up in the (2) 4080 Supers for the moment. Newegg has yet to refund me on the other one. But I’m very happy with this 4080 Super Suprim X. I honestly didn’t think I’d like an air cooled GPU this much. Another shocker here, I have actually considered leaving it on air cooling! 😁 As for delidding this 14900KF, it really doesn’t need it. Delid would definitely drop temps -15C and drop more voltage off. But the daily reliability would go way down on it. Solder is such a great long term TIM no maintenance needed, and it’s already a beast. If a chip can perform good without a delid I always recommend that option. As for the power supply, I think this 1000 watt unit is probably just a stepping stone. I really want to see if my computer can run coil whine free lol. I have my doubts 😂. We’ll see tomorrow. All 5 of my pumps are mounted right to my test bench, so they all plug right in to the power supply that powers the system. No long cables or extensions. I only have 1 fan that I use to flow some air on the back of my GPU since using air cooled graphics cards lately. Other than that the wires are pretty tidy. I think these pumps only use 25-37 watts each, so maybe 125-185 extra watts on the system. I think it’s closer to 125 watt though. I should be okay inside of 1,000 watts I think. I just want to alleviate this electrical interference noise.

I bought a new power supply. Let’s see if MSI can keep this good quality streak up with their products! I ordered a MSI 1000 watt power supply. That is going to be a tight squeeze with my system and all of these pumps and accessories. But if it’s a quality unit it should handle my computers needs with no problems and no screaming sounds. I’m excited to get rid of the coil whine. 😃

Okay, benchmark time. I have been enjoying this GPU plenty in games. Now the rubber meets the road! Not bad for air cooling. I am really curious what chilled water would do for this GPU. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/107951133?loginkey=ZVhkhV4PxsU0X3fL9j34GA NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9 processor 14900KF,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG MAXIMUS Z790 APEX (3dmark.com)

I have been thinking about doing a Retro build. Using older parts but high end parts. I think it would be awesome. One GPU I have always liked is the MSI GTX 780 lightning.

@Papusan Linus did a unboxing of your latest acquisition. 😁

Well, time for a new PSU. I think I’ll give MSI Meg unit a try 🤷‍♂️. I’m just ready to alleviate my self from all the coil whine I have been dealing with for years now on my EVGA units. I’m open to other suggestions though. Looking at this MSI 1000/1300 watt MEG Platinum rated units. It is $251 to $309. Looks like I will be able to skip the adapter too for my GPU and use the included native PCI-e Gen5 cable. I’m definitely open to other options though. I just want a high quality and quiet power supply. https://us-store.msi.com/PC-Components/Power-Supply/Gaming-Power-Supplies/MEG-Ai1000P-PCIE5?sort=p.price&order=DESC

Just use Alt+R to quickly turn the Nvidia OSD on or off in game or on the desktop. I primarily use it in games for the 99% low feature. It helps me to check memory overclocks to make sure I’m not losing performance with too tight of ram timings etc. And it won’t cause a hit to your GPU usage like MSI Afterburner or HWinfo can. It’s nothing super fancy, but it works.

I’m becoming an MSI fanboy, it’s terrible because it can cloud your judgement! But everything I have owned MSI is amazing. My prior MSI Unify-X Z690, and this MSI Suprim 4080 is just ridiculously good. I can’t explain why it’s so great but this might just be one of the best out of box video cards I have owned in an long while, and that’s even with the 20% premium over the Founders Edition. 🤷‍♂️ I hope MSI gets back in to the (2) Dimm motherboard game again. Being that we have 2x24GB and 2x48GB, I see no reason for (4) Dimm motherboards unless it’s a Godlike which I think is catered to workstation users? Anyways, I’d probably trade my Apex right on in for something like a Unify-X Z790 CAUTION: Mean MSI dragon below.

I can say I definitely trust modern OLED pretty good now. When I first bought this refurbished Aorus 48” OLED monitor it had exactly 38 hours on it. But I am about to cross the 1,000 hour threshold. I always let it run the panel protection features every 4 hours of constant on time. (This alerts you automatically, but some people ignore it) my windows also turns off my monitor after 5 minutes of idle usage. Never had a single problem with burn-in. This monitor is as gorgeous as ever. Just figured I’d share if anyone is considering grabbing an OLED. I plan to push this panel to 10K hours and beyond. 😃 The last picture is an example of how the blacks are. It looks like an actual BLACK. It really is cool.

I had a RX480 from launch day years ago when they first came out, and it has a 99% ASIC quality. I thought it was really cool. It overclocked pretty good too. I actually got a virus on my windows during that time period, (I don’t know how) and someone was using my RX480 as a remote miner. 🤣 sitting on the desktop at 100% GPU usage at all times. It was the craziest thing. I don’t know how this even happen. But I just reinstalled windows and all was well.

@Mr. Fox I decided to dial in my AC/DC as well. Because I am using complete auto voltage lately. And it seems that my power usage is not affected at all running manually tuned ac dc settings. I’m running 5.9P/4.8E/5.0R LLC4, AC is 0.16, DC is 1.05. My max power consumption has not really changed it has actually gone down a bit. I’m wondering if this is only happening on your Encore or specific bios. 🤷‍♂️ Anyways, just figured I‘d share my experience with this. Also, another note on LLC. I have discovered that LLC4 really is pure amazing. Apparently it has the best voltage response hands down of any of LLC setting. And you can use just auto voltage entirely which will guarantee a perfectly stable chip under light loads, or heavy loads. How I followed the AC/DC tuning. Set LLC4, enter DC of 0.98, enter AC of 0.20. Go run R23 or another similar bench and and check if load Vcore matches load VID. Usually the load VID’s are higher while load Vcore is lower. So in this case with higher load VID’s you want to increase your DC of 0.98 by +0.02 and keep testing until your VID match the Vcore under load. Once you’ve tuned the DC we move on to your AC. The AC acts like a undervolt more or less without having to physically type in or dial in a manual voltage. I started with 0.20 on AC and reduced it by -0.01 and keep running R23 or similar stress test, the power usage drops each time you reduce by -0.01.. You want to keep dropping by -0.01 until it crashes and will not run anymore. You may end up with 0.15 or 0.18 the number doesn’t really matter it’s different for everyone’s setup/cpu etc. If it does crash increase AC back by +0.01 Once you have found the perfect AC setting, you may have to go back and dial the DC a little more to get that load Vcore to match the load VID’s. If the VID’s are lower than your load Vcore, then you need to reduce the DC number. If your load VID’s are higher than your load VCore, then you want to increase the DC number. You may have already done this. Anyways, this method is awesome! And once dialed you can run an auto voltage which is what our CPU’s really want anyways.

I’m dealing with this on a return to Newegg. That 4080 Super Expert is held up by usps, and at this rate my RMA number actually expires tomorrow. I’m worrying over this. I hope Newegg is reasonable, and can see the item actually moving towards them. You ever have this happen?

I let GeForce Experience install too, I use to not use it, but there is no difference with it running or not with performance. And I guess you mean, when we login we don’t have to verify via email anymore? I hated that.. But I Iove the features of GeForce experience. I use the monitoring features, and gameplay recording as well. It only eats about 4% of your frame rate to record your entire game with a OSD displayed which is helpful. @Mr. Fox I just forced 1.100V via MSI afterburner and it’s not artifacting anymore. 😁

Ohhh okay, that makes sense why it is on the core only and goes away with cooler temps then. It does show 1.100V or 1.095V on MSI afterburner though.

Anyone experience artifacting with RTX4000 series when overclocking the core only in games? It’s kinda of odd. The artifacts will kick in around 58-59C temp range with an auto fan profile only, they only occur above 3,000Mhz+ on the GPU only. If I run a slightly more aggressive fan speed with temps that never exceed 55c they never occur. This makes me think the GPU is super temp sensitive above 3,000Mhz. But this GPU responds very well to overclocks and cooler temps. Anyone else notice these artifacts with their GPU when pushing the core too high?

I’m really liking this Suprim it’s a fantastic product. I did not realize you had a Suprim 4090. What kind of core overclocks were you able to set for daily usage on yours?

I don’t see those option in NVCP.

They certainly charged me taxes on my 4080S Suprim x. Like $84 dollars