tps3443

High voltage or low voltage the 5090’s can scale up really well I think. We just need low temps, and 1,000+ watts of power!

If your card uses less voltage it just means it probably leaks less than 5090’s that ask for more voltage. But high voltage or low voltage does not determine how high the silicon can scale. @Papusan What does your Astral voltage run at?

I’m not swapping my card. I absolutely love it! I feel like it’s a great example of what an FE is supposed to be. It’s quiet and It’s a low power 5090. I’m very happy with my silicon so far. I feel like Its an excellent sample, clocks can fly without crashing, of course I’m bound by power and temps right now. But I see absolutely no reason to waterblock/Shunt/OC any other GPU. We have what we have. This thing is used for playing games and work, I’m not stressing my self over finding something else. 😃 As far as binning goes with 5090’s that is a massive waste of time for me and most. But I know some people who are testing 3+ Astrals or 3+ other models and keeping whichever does best. The reality is, I think any 5090 is going to run 3,200 internally and some models may run 3,400 internally (Once shunted and on water of course) @electrosoft I thought the 5080FE was overclocked faster than 5090FE by default. But, it isn’t and that’s interesting.. That’s exactly what my 5090 runs at, Your 5080 looks perfectly fine to me though. These cards are not factory overclocked, that boost and voltage is identical to what my 5090 does 2,887 stock. You have essentially added +300 in core and +3000 memory and gained +20 watts more. Your load voltage is even less than stock clocks as the card is still power limited. Notice your voltage went down with the higher overclock even though it’s 1 degree cooler and only 270 watts that card is power limited before even hitting its power limit. This is the case with 50 series unfortunately and our internal clock falls to the floor. Apparently the 5090’s can hit this limit at low 500w sometimes even 450w. You would have to do +473 or maybe +500 and increase power slider to 104% to do a more fair comparison since the Astral has a maxed power slider by default at 100% and a factory OC of +173 It’ll probably drop voltage even more though but I think the silicon can handle it. These cards are so artificially limited man it’s crazy. If you could flash it to the Astral 5080 bios, I think then you’d see it fly just for the extra power head room alone with 5080’s. Or shunt mod it. 😃

Yzonker has a 5090 Astral shunt modded and on water and he cannot lock more than 1075mv. So it really seems to be all over the place card to card.

I cannot lock that voltage. My card maxes out even with lower temps.

Also too, when checking voltage. Make sure your temp is below 56c. That is some vital point with 5090’s. So I’d test yours again, just like you’re doing now only with sub 56c temps. This will reflect its true max voltage. Or at least that’s how it was explained to me.

So I have learned that the GPU voltage is not determined by the bios, so even if we flashed to Astral bios. Some Astrals/Suprim’s cannot hit 1.110v even locked in at 1.100v+ with 100% slider. The voltage is controlled directly by the core. I will never see a 1075 in real world either mine is typically 0.990-1.010 and with 100% slider it’ll show a 1.020 So, in order to see the 1075v “At Idle” you need to set 100% voltage slider, and set the 1.110v point on the graph and hit Shift+L to lock it in. This will lock in your highest GPU’s voltage “That it needs” for that set frequency at the 1.1100 voltage graph point. This voltage isn’t controlled by the bios. It’s completely based on the cores needs. My 5090FE is very quiet. 575w in a closed case it stays below 50% Auto fan speed. Undervolting it drops that to sub 40% fan speeds. The main thing with my card is I never see power usage this high unless I’m running Furmark or 4K scaled up 200% to 8K. Since I’m shunt modding, I have to remove the cooler which means I won’t be reinstalling the original air cooler. I’m not taking the cooler off until I have a waterblock in hand though. Once I get a block so I can tear my card apart, I’m going to solder on the shunt. This will make a massive difference for all 5090’s in their internal effective clock speed.

I really wanted my whole system to be watercooled when I was building this rig and I had kinda prepped with the 4090. We just don’t have any blocks yet for FE models. So, I had already ordered my Fujipoly fullcover rear thermal pad (Originally for the 4090 never used it) but now I’ve ordered some shunts, but I can’t add any of these items until I get a waterblock. FE blocks are taking a little longer than the other models, but they’re coming. I’m really curious what the Bitspower block will even look like.

I can’t believe we have an Oblivion remastered in 2025 on PC it has RT/FG/DLSS support lol! Just came out today on game pass. I remember struggling to run this one smoothly at 20-30fps with my GeForce 6600GT. I was running 1280x1024. I ended up beating Oblivion on a ATI X850 Pro that was flashed to an X850XT bios via floppy disc lol.

Well, I’d look at undervolting to give you an idea. It could be pulling more just due to a higher default voltage curve and that’s making it seem like it’s using much more power. Is this a PNY RGB OC model? What was wrong with the Trio you got?

That’s really good! Which card is this? I would absolutely shunt the card. I went with the 1.5 Ohm 3 watt resistor for my FE from mouser. The stock FE has a single 1 ohm resistor, so stacking 1.5 ohm on top will give me 1,050 watts not counting the PCIe slot power. Bitspower may or may not be sending me a GPU block for testing. Fingers crossed.🤞 I’ve been bugging them to death so we’ll see what happens. The 5090 even shunted is going to chow down 900+ watts even with lower voltages. These cards are throttling hard though man. The biggest issue is the internal clock that is actually running. The cards are reflecting a higher clock speed externally, but it’s really running much slower than that effectively. It’s like a rubber band effect to prevent crashing due to power limits. So shunting will eliminate this entirely!

My last driver 572.83 definitely needed a hard reset to recover from. @Papusan Bitspower blocks will be here next month!

I haven’t seen any issues with the latest drivers. I use my PC for 8 hours a day a least. I’m not sure what the deal is. Latest driver seems fine, it reduced idle clocks even further down to 22Mhz from 180Mhz. I’m not really checking any fps differences in games, maybe I should I suppose. I saw a slight improvement in Steel Nomad. Card can still reach max 1075mv. Temps sensor seems to work okay as well. I have never experienced black screens, if I add like +475 you will get a black screen from a crash. But other than that the drivers seem perfectly fine. https://www.3dmark.com/sn/5548902

If my baby 5090 is okay at 600w. 5080 are probably more than okay at 450w should be a walk in the park. XOC 5090 is a mine field though. 5090 XOC= Shunt mod + Chilled water. These cards are going to draw some serious power from that dinky cable. Running this daily nonchalant like would be terrifying I think. I would give cables a 1 plug life span to avoid cable debris. Maybe even run one of those 4x8 pin to 12 pin cables.

Well, that does not necessarily mean other 5080/5090 bios cannot work on the FE though, I do not think anyone has tried to flash theirs. Flashing the 5080FE would be beneficial though. You can pick-up 90 more wattsies.

Nvflashk from Kefi works just fine on 50 series but that was just re-flashing my original bios back on. I have an Astral bios I may give it a try. I just hate to brick the card over being dumb. I do not see why it would not work. And worst-case scenario I would have to flash blindly flash back to my original. "I think so anyways" It is so nerve racking doing this though. If you flash your 5080FE to Astral let me know if it works. 😁

I am not sure. But I don’t think we have any XOC bios yet anyways to make flashing viable. Shunt mod is the only option right now for all 5090’s since we’re all capped at 600. Flashing would provide a factory overclock at least.

I’m excited to see this new Intel 2NM TSMC node. I’m even more excited to watercooling this 5090FE. I’m waiting for EKWB blocks to be in stock. I hope Intel can pull it off and make a beast of a gaming chip. Would be even better if they socketed right in to existing Z890 motherboards since barely any of them have sold and prices have fallen a good bit. Confirmed that Bitspower is making a waterblock for the 5090FE as well. in March 2025 they said release will be in 1-2 months. So, I think I would rather have a Bitspower block if I had a choice between them and EKWB. Bitspower is also making a waterblock for the Astral 5090 and TUF 5090.

Looks like a 33% improvement to me. Also check this out! I have my Dual D5 basement water temp sensor, Dual D5 Distro water temp sensor, and the internal case air temp of the Lian Li V3000+ Plus (Sensor is right below the 5090FE). Everything is on a silent PWM profile including the Pumps, and rad fans/case fans. And with the two 480mm HWlab GTX rads, my water is 1c above case ambient which is pretty good, I think. I am going to be monitoring that ambient case temp more under a load to see how hot it gets inside my PC case. 🙂

Man. I hate that when a room warms up. I’m so glad I don’t have this issue. So I’m genuinely sorry about your first world problems, but it is a real concern. People have this issue with water chillers which is why they have to be in an open area. The 5090 is probably the tipping point for your space there I mean it’s a power sucking monster. It’ll probably only get worse when it gets warmer outside. I was worried about that when I was running a chiller when we moved, which was why I went with an open office setup, and fortunately nothing can heat my office up past the usual home temp of 68-72f range. The setup works and it stays cool like the rest of the house does. Accept for my son’s room which will get warm fast, if he had a 5090 in there he would probably die of a heat stroke, his 3090 running stock would push water to beyond 40c and his PC would not stop crashing. Now I’ve undervolted his 3090 and it’s helped a little, I also had to put a small fan by his rooms A/C vent to help cool it down in there. I know it might be crazy pulling apart such an expensive GPU like the Astral, I feel the same way about my little FE, so you’re gonna have to knock a wall down in your house, this is the way (Kidding). But you may just fix your problem if you water cool it. But I know that’s a hard decision on a $3,600 dollar graphics card. You’ve already got a good case to house such equipment in though. Single 360/420 would do the trick. Maybe cool the CPU as well just because. 83f is pretty toasty room temp!

Is your PC in a bedroom? It’s going to cook in there. My son had this issue with just a RTX 3090 FE. His water temp reached over 40c on his 360MM NZXT AIO while the CPU was practically idling along. His bedroom would be literally cooking. 3090FE is running cool at 68c, but his bedroom would be boiling. I undervolted the 3090FE, which helped. But I think it’s just the issue of running the system in a closed room especially a 5090.

I picked up one of these amperage meters to test load balancing on my 5090FE. I’m seriously curious too! I wish I’d have done this on my 4090 for comparison. The photo below is not mine but off of Reddit.

Some cannot do it unfortunately. I have seen it is mostly common on Gigabyte models for some reason.

I think I just got lucky with my sample (95c is absolutely nuts for a 5090FE). This is after an hour playing at 4K+200% resolution scale, in a closed case, so 8K resolution with auto fans. It is pegged at 575+ watts, and it does not go past 49% fan speed. My case is fantastic though. (No undervolting, no tuning and it is pure insane for a 2 slot GPU)

This is with voltage slider turned up and power limit at 104%. So 3,270Mhz at 64c. I think these things on water and shunt mod would be absolute rippers.