tps3443

I really wanted my whole system to be watercooled when I was building this rig and I had kinda prepped with the 4090. We just don’t have any blocks yet for FE models. So, I had already ordered my Fujipoly fullcover rear thermal pad (Originally for the 4090 never used it) but now I’ve ordered some shunts, but I can’t add any of these items until I get a waterblock. FE blocks are taking a little longer than the other models, but they’re coming. I’m really curious what the Bitspower block will even look like.

I can’t believe we have an Oblivion remastered in 2025 on PC it has RT/FG/DLSS support lol! Just came out today on game pass. I remember struggling to run this one smoothly at 20-30fps with my GeForce 6600GT. I was running 1280x1024. I ended up beating Oblivion on a ATI X850 Pro that was flashed to an X850XT bios via floppy disc lol.

Well, I’d look at undervolting to give you an idea. It could be pulling more just due to a higher default voltage curve and that’s making it seem like it’s using much more power. Is this a PNY RGB OC model? What was wrong with the Trio you got?

That’s really good! Which card is this? I would absolutely shunt the card. I went with the 1.5 Ohm 3 watt resistor for my FE from mouser. The stock FE has a single 1 ohm resistor, so stacking 1.5 ohm on top will give me 1,050 watts not counting the PCIe slot power. Bitspower may or may not be sending me a GPU block for testing. Fingers crossed.🤞 I’ve been bugging them to death so we’ll see what happens. The 5090 even shunted is going to chow down 900+ watts even with lower voltages. These cards are throttling hard though man. The biggest issue is the internal clock that is actually running. The cards are reflecting a higher clock speed externally, but it’s really running much slower than that effectively. It’s like a rubber band effect to prevent crashing due to power limits. So shunting will eliminate this entirely!

My last driver 572.83 definitely needed a hard reset to recover from. @Papusan Bitspower blocks will be here next month!

I haven’t seen any issues with the latest drivers. I use my PC for 8 hours a day a least. I’m not sure what the deal is. Latest driver seems fine, it reduced idle clocks even further down to 22Mhz from 180Mhz. I’m not really checking any fps differences in games, maybe I should I suppose. I saw a slight improvement in Steel Nomad. Card can still reach max 1075mv. Temps sensor seems to work okay as well. I have never experienced black screens, if I add like +475 you will get a black screen from a crash. But other than that the drivers seem perfectly fine. https://www.3dmark.com/sn/5548902

If my baby 5090 is okay at 600w. 5080 are probably more than okay at 450w should be a walk in the park. XOC 5090 is a mine field though. 5090 XOC= Shunt mod + Chilled water. These cards are going to draw some serious power from that dinky cable. Running this daily nonchalant like would be terrifying I think. I would give cables a 1 plug life span to avoid cable debris. Maybe even run one of those 4x8 pin to 12 pin cables.

Well, that does not necessarily mean other 5080/5090 bios cannot work on the FE though, I do not think anyone has tried to flash theirs. Flashing the 5080FE would be beneficial though. You can pick-up 90 more wattsies.

Nvflashk from Kefi works just fine on 50 series but that was just re-flashing my original bios back on. I have an Astral bios I may give it a try. I just hate to brick the card over being dumb. I do not see why it would not work. And worst-case scenario I would have to flash blindly flash back to my original. "I think so anyways" It is so nerve racking doing this though. If you flash your 5080FE to Astral let me know if it works. 😁

I am not sure. But I don’t think we have any XOC bios yet anyways to make flashing viable. Shunt mod is the only option right now for all 5090’s since we’re all capped at 600. Flashing would provide a factory overclock at least.

I’m excited to see this new Intel 2NM TSMC node. I’m even more excited to watercooling this 5090FE. I’m waiting for EKWB blocks to be in stock. I hope Intel can pull it off and make a beast of a gaming chip. Would be even better if they socketed right in to existing Z890 motherboards since barely any of them have sold and prices have fallen a good bit. Confirmed that Bitspower is making a waterblock for the 5090FE as well. in March 2025 they said release will be in 1-2 months. So, I think I would rather have a Bitspower block if I had a choice between them and EKWB. Bitspower is also making a waterblock for the Astral 5090 and TUF 5090.

Looks like a 33% improvement to me. Also check this out! I have my Dual D5 basement water temp sensor, Dual D5 Distro water temp sensor, and the internal case air temp of the Lian Li V3000+ Plus (Sensor is right below the 5090FE). Everything is on a silent PWM profile including the Pumps, and rad fans/case fans. And with the two 480mm HWlab GTX rads, my water is 1c above case ambient which is pretty good, I think. I am going to be monitoring that ambient case temp more under a load to see how hot it gets inside my PC case. 🙂

Man. I hate that when a room warms up. I’m so glad I don’t have this issue. So I’m genuinely sorry about your first world problems, but it is a real concern. People have this issue with water chillers which is why they have to be in an open area. The 5090 is probably the tipping point for your space there I mean it’s a power sucking monster. It’ll probably only get worse when it gets warmer outside. I was worried about that when I was running a chiller when we moved, which was why I went with an open office setup, and fortunately nothing can heat my office up past the usual home temp of 68-72f range. The setup works and it stays cool like the rest of the house does. Accept for my son’s room which will get warm fast, if he had a 5090 in there he would probably die of a heat stroke, his 3090 running stock would push water to beyond 40c and his PC would not stop crashing. Now I’ve undervolted his 3090 and it’s helped a little, I also had to put a small fan by his rooms A/C vent to help cool it down in there. I know it might be crazy pulling apart such an expensive GPU like the Astral, I feel the same way about my little FE, so you’re gonna have to knock a wall down in your house, this is the way (Kidding). But you may just fix your problem if you water cool it. But I know that’s a hard decision on a $3,600 dollar graphics card. You’ve already got a good case to house such equipment in though. Single 360/420 would do the trick. Maybe cool the CPU as well just because. 83f is pretty toasty room temp!

Is your PC in a bedroom? It’s going to cook in there. My son had this issue with just a RTX 3090 FE. His water temp reached over 40c on his 360MM NZXT AIO while the CPU was practically idling along. His bedroom would be literally cooking. 3090FE is running cool at 68c, but his bedroom would be boiling. I undervolted the 3090FE, which helped. But I think it’s just the issue of running the system in a closed room especially a 5090.

I picked up one of these amperage meters to test load balancing on my 5090FE. I’m seriously curious too! I wish I’d have done this on my 4090 for comparison. The photo below is not mine but off of Reddit.

Some cannot do it unfortunately. I have seen it is mostly common on Gigabyte models for some reason.

I think I just got lucky with my sample (95c is absolutely nuts for a 5090FE). This is after an hour playing at 4K+200% resolution scale, in a closed case, so 8K resolution with auto fans. It is pegged at 575+ watts, and it does not go past 49% fan speed. My case is fantastic though. (No undervolting, no tuning and it is pure insane for a 2 slot GPU)

This is with voltage slider turned up and power limit at 104%. So 3,270Mhz at 64c. I think these things on water and shunt mod would be absolute rippers.

Yeah it’s ridiculous. They need to make more of them. I’d give in too just like anyone else would and I’d also own an Astral lol. I think it’s what we would all end up with if given the choice to spend over 3K. I think prices in the US are even worse than your pricing and that’s a first right? I think I’m going to be watercooling my 5090. I hope EKWB does not fail us with the FE block. I have not seen anyone with one just yet. But I’m waiting.

@electrosoft You might be under Asus’s ROG spell. He would have to be nuts to fork over a 5090FE and $1,400 for an Astral. I think 99% of Astral owners cannot buy a FE for $1,999 so they go this route > (I’m already getting hosed at $2,900+ for a Ventus so let me just get hosed for $3,359 on the Astral INSTEAD) All I know is this..I would not pay + anything over my FE for an Astral unless It was the only option @electrosoft you should steer this guy straight he should keep his 5090FE and learn to love it. Or maybe just trade him.. You could literally swap with this guy and build an entire custom loop inside a brand new anything case you wanted and fold your own Astral with the ultra silent watercooled FE 🫠. Of course the Astral runs higher clocks right now, it’s the size of a bus man. Add a block to both the FE and the Astral and what are the benefits of the Astral…. I mean, I can run CB2077 RT+PT with nice clocks of 3,075Mhz@550 watts even with a higher core temp of 72c, and with rasterized games that are like Unigine heaven typically I can push as high as 3.2Ghz@64c. Below are some examples of my FE. Worst case scenario is Ray Tracing with Path Tracing auto fan 72c@3,075Mhz@550 watts. Better case scenario is faster fan speed and 3.2Ghz in rasterized gaming scenario. That’s a +425 offset on the core in Unigine Haven 4K. The thing clocks to the moon, it’s just waiting for temp algorithm to be in its favor. 😁

If he wants an Astral, I would just tell your buddy to sell his 5090FE and go buy an Astral, he doesn’t need yours. He can get $3,500 for his FE no problem. The market on these FE’s has gone up substantially on eBay. And he would not have to add any money at all. And even if he could not find an MSRP Astral, he has $1,400 he’s trying to add, so he can just go buy one of the $4,399 dollar Scalper Astrals on eBay and add much less cash.

Flash the Astral bios to your Suprim and see if anything changes with load voltages. It’s good you can run +3,000 though. Some 5090’s cannot run that. Also, these cards do see transient spikes of like 800+ watts in power draw. But yeah they are just a little power limited for heavy OC in power virus applications, but honestly I think it’s just as efficient as my 4090 was, when I run my 5090FE stock the power draw is pretty low in my games in 4K. I haven’t come across any games yet that are bouncing off 600w. If I undervolt it, it stays extremely low on power consumption. My 5090 stays low on voltage too, even lower than yours. 😃 But I love it because it barely uses power. And the default 575w is more than enough for 4K gaming for me (Even without undervolting) Congratulations! You’ve got the same GPU as @win32asmguy

Time to put the fans back in and put doors on 😂. I’d be tempted to run that Astral in a vertical position as well. Also, time for custom loop as well. You one need (1) HWlab GTX, and fans on one side. You can make it very quiet. I run mine super quiet. But I see why you don’t run a loop. With 9800X3D/9950X3D it seems like we can get peak performance with a fanless rock resting on it lol.

I think realworld the RTX 5080 for the FE price of $1,000 it is reasonable, it’s a lot cheaper than a 4090 after all. You can OC them and yield some good numbers from them as well. The OC headroom is gonna make that thing a crusher in games. I think the nvidia features are good. DLSS+FG are really good tools, that boost performance even further. I think on paper the 9070XT seems great. But real world, when we turn on DLSS/RT/Frame Gen etc. The 5080 is going to do abnormally well. Also, I lapped the IHS of my Xeon 3175x last night lol. Stayed up until 3:30am working on it. Hard tube really ain’t all that bad. I can pull the block pretty quick. I had to clean the cold plate. It was clogged from previous owner. Reassembled, full loop passed leak test on first try. I dropped 10c CPU temps. And picked up 50L/H in flow rate. @electrosoft and @Clamibot the Coolermaster CryoFuze Thermalpaste is literally Thermalright TFX. Kinda tough to spread, but insanely good temp results. I’m not sure how well this will work on direct die situations. But it’ll peel up on you if you’re spreading and don’t apply enough pressure on the spatula when spreading. For the money, the stuff works VERY well. Once you spread it, you’ll be like YUP that’s Thermalright TFX but it’s really not too bad to spread. The performance results are definitely worth it!

Well, when we compare $2,000 vs $3,500 or $1,000 vs $1,650 that’s not like a lesser evil. That’s like not having an extra hole put in your ass. 🤣 I’d rather overpay for a 5090 than overpay for a 5080 all day. I think we all agree with this.