tps3443

Apex Encore shipped.

I guess I’ll ride out on Z790/13900KS for a while. It’s really just so fast… Honestly, our typical CPU’s are ridiculously powerful. I remember when I had my 7980XE@5Ghz which was such a beast, then I moved to a lesser but more practical 10900K. It was a massive trade off, and I lost enough multithreaded performance where I could no longer run VR, and games simultaneously on the 10900K/11900K. But, we are at a point where mainstream chips smash that 5Ghz 18/36 core behemoth, and they can actually do these heavy multitask things easily. This makes me think that Z790 platform and 13900K/KS is gonna be super practical for a very long time. And it may even turn in to the long term gaming king like 10900K was and is.

It was $695 after 7.75% sales tax. But I opted for faster shipping which added another $13. The free Newegg shipping for me, is the absolute worst! Newegg knows people are impatient, and they know we don’t wanna wait 4-7 days for their super slowver shipping option 😂

I pre-ordered that Encore, so I would have time to think on it until the 10/20 release. And they just texted me and said it’s already in packaging 🤷‍♂️

The new Z790 Apex Encore is on Newegg for $649.99.

Big difference in the 5.8Ghz VID’s and 5.4Ghz, that is gonna reflect in real world. The biggest difference is E-Cores. You’re lucky because those make the largest difference in multithreaded. You will easily run all those at 4.8 without jumping off a cliff with voltage and heat. My current chip needs LOTS of extra juice to push 4.8E. I’d be curious to see how the ring is too. My ring sucks on my KS 🤣 it’s 5.0Ghz and that’s IT! 5.1 ring will lock up on me 🙃

Here is the issue I am having. https://youtu.be/Hmkt-DMrJcw?si=QIDCQl9ZGrhmrGD8

@Mr. Fox it really is a lot of air that accumulates after just 1.5 hours lol, if it was just a little I would not bother.. The only thing that’s different is my inlet pushing water back in to my tank is not submerged so my tank sounds like a gold fish pond, but my outlet pumping water out of the tank and in to my PC is always submerged. My water tank is slightly lower than my water chiller. Do you think the outlet not being submerged could be causing problem? The tank is open and not sealed. When I shake my chiller it will totally air up the whole 1-2Ft of water tubing. And it keeps on pushing air from my chiller while shaking/tilting the chiller. Then it stops and slows down. And re-builds after another 1-2 hours. The pump noises are the most annoying though. I had the same problem when the tank was sitting on my desk, and it was well above the chiller then. Seeing the tiny air bubbles in my water block only made me think that was where it’s coming from. But I leak tested my block really well without the QD3’s. So it could possibly be the QD3’s. I have torn apart and reassembled every pump and re-leak tested every block. Only think I did not test were my (2-3) 45 degree fittings, I should have left those and capped them. I also have been clipped off each 1” of tubing for a fresh tube to fitting connection just to make sure the tubes are not loose. It really is tough finding this leak that doesn’t leak 🤣 EDIT: (I am tilting the tank so my back to tank inlet is submerged, and ai am gonna see if my chiller still fills with air)

This pump has a built in flow meter and temp sensor. But, it’s just a hassle to calibrate it properly. (1) You need specific Aqua Computer coolant for the flow sensor to work, or you could maybe mix something up that would be consistent to make the sensor read my water. (2) You can only have this (1) pump running during calibration process, that’s not exactly possible. This one pump can’t even turn water in my loop, as the calibration process drops to 0% then slowly moves up during calibration lol. (3) You are supposed to pinch off/block flow during calibration and release the tube after it’s done? Why would I do this 😂 (4) Water temp needs to be 33C or higher for proper calibration to work. (Not gonna happen) So, it pumps and it tells me my water temp. I’m okay with that. I’ve got a mechanical flow sensor on the way that I will piggy back off of the pump and run on its own tube, and the flow rate from the sensor will display on the pump but it will be an accurate reading from a mechanical sensor. It also seems less powerful than my brand new VPP655T. That it replaced. Power usage shows 19.5 watts from the pump. I’m still struggling with my loop. Air is getting in somehow. I have leak tested my pumps, my blocks, and I took apart my supercool. The only thing I can think of is maybe my Koolance QD3’s are introducing air in through the cpu block and it’s slowly filling up air in my system. I already tore down my supercool tonight and leak tested it on both sides and it is 100%. The air slowly builds in the chiller tank, and I have to shake it out in to my reservoir. I can see teeny tiny air bubbles in my supercool block so I think it may be coming from my QD3’s. I also took them off and put some o ring grease and put them back on.

Ehhhh It’s okay. It looks pretty, and it pumps water, and that’s all I need it for, apparently you gotta have a warmer water temp of 33C to calibrate and use Aqua computers specific coolant for the virtual flow sensor to even work, and you have to pinch a line to calibrate the pump as well. Any other coolant may not work..🤣 I’m just gonna let it pump, and tell me water temp. 🙂 EDIT: I got the software working, but I don’t think the virtual flow will work with my water type and water temp.

@Papusan My D5 Next says 0 L flow rate. How do I make it work? I got it all set up.

Pump is here D5 Next. Great deal for $115.

My loop is still sucking air in. I have taken apart every pump reassembled with O-Ring grease on the G1/4 plug seals and the pump seals. I’m going to check the super cool, it has a few small bubbles in it.

Yep, for sure. This happen day 1 of tank setup, I was just thankful it stopped at a pump, and did not reach my GPU/CPU/RAM and force a leak, I was so mad when this happen lol. I popped a hole in that inlet cover where a 1.5” threaded plug can go, some of the threaded holes are sealed off with a thin plastic layer from the factory, so they are closed, and opening them is optional, you’ll see what I mean, and you gotta punch them out. This hole allowed it to breathe and let the air out of the tank. Anyways, I hope I found the leak. I replaced the fittings on one of the pumps, and cut new tubing for it. I think it was the suspect. But, I’ll have to go through them all. I also put the tank under my desk. Better insulation for sure. I run a pump on both sides of my tank, and both sides of chiller. This method works so well. It makes that chiller cool down QUICK. That’s the most important thing really, the other parts don’t really matter.

It’s really annoying, before it was actually pressurizing the tank, so much in fact that is caused my other D5 to push and leak water through the actual pump ring seal 🤣 that is a tremendous amount of pressure, the tank was turning in to a giant foot ball with rounded corners, it was gonna blow the house up, then I decided to leave the fill port open, problem solved, but now air is still slowly pulling in the loop some how 🤣. Anyways, thanks! I will check the pump inlet fittings.

The 10ga tank is almost all the way full, and the fill port is always open. So air can continuously bleed and repeat. It’s never ending lol. So, I’m not adding water. Just noticing that I always have air in my loop. I can work all of the air out but it eventually returns. It feels like something is sucking air in. One of my pumps does sound a little bubbly at times, even after getting all the air out of the system, I have a feeling it’s sucking air in to the loop from a pump, but no leaking water.

Awesome. I’m gonna add these last few bits to my loop and be done for a while, lol. I wanted to ask if you have ever had re-accumulating air in a loop before? I have some air that is trapped in my chillers internal tank, I will move the chiller around and the air is immediately bled off through a pump and in to and out of my big water tank. However, the air returns after 1 day. I have no bubbles in my lines or blocks. No leaks or anything. Is it possible a leaking pump/part/fitting seal/O-Ring could pull air in to the system without exhibiting signs of a water leak? Im confused why this air keeps returning. I’m going straight from chiller/pump/tank/ air exits fill port. I shake and check the entire system for air. NONE. And it will return after some hours.

Flow rate with chiller and tank are totally different. You can keep adding D5’s and your load in a game chilled water temp will be lower and easier to manage. It ain’t gonna reduce your cpu temps. But, it will increase how effectively your chiller can cool, how fast it can cool, and most importantly what water temp it can sustain forever, and how much wattage it can cool without a climbing water temp. (3) D5’s is not enough. I think (5) would do it though. Slow flow or too low head pressure causes chillers to run and run and run.

@Papusan I just did some more research and the flow meter in the D5 next is a virtual flow meter 😞 my VPP755 V3’s that I was using before have these too. But, I don’t think they are an accurate measurement. It’s just a guess based on RPM of the pump, it doesn’t account for other pumps, restrictions of the water or anything. It also has a hook up for an external mechanical flow meter though which is nice. Maybe you know more about it, I am not that confident in a virtual flow meter though. But Maybe I’m wrong 🤷‍♂️ I am going to grab this as well. It’s Aqua computers completely stripped down uglier flow meter lol, but it’s fully compatible with the D5 Next, and plugs right in to it. Most of all it is very very accurate, and I will have my real mechanical water flow read right on the pump and in HWINFO. (That’s what I want 🙂) https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3951&language=en

$36 bucks is amazing. Not gonna find that deal again though lol. Anyways, yeah if I had a regular water loop I would not worry with so many pumps. However, a 1/2HP waterchiller, and a 38 liter water tank, these systems are designed for BIG BIG FLOW RATES. Preferably (2-3) Eheim 1260’s. These pumps are capable of 10M+ of head pressure each. If I had normal loop, I’d just run 2 D5’s and be happy. But, I’ve got about 11+ gallons of water combined 😂 that needs to have lots of pressure everywhere. If I unplug just (1) D5, my chiller loses about 200 watts of continuous cooling power. I have not seen a plateau just yet, every time I improve my flow or add a pump, I see some improvements in how easily my chiller can cool things down.

Okay, yeah I was mainly after just tons of water pressure and good flow rate. But now I really just want to know my flow rate. I’ll probably just add this one and stick to 4 pumps.

That is some serious flow! How many pumps? I don’t know what mine is 😞 I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.

I was gonna grab one, but the D5 NEXT sold me. It’s a pump and flow meter combined 😱. 🙂 for $115 it’s hard to pass up. It’ll be here tomorrow. @Papusan I have always wanted one forever now, but the prices were always something crazy like $190 or $250 and usually sold out, when I saw this one for $128 and another 10% off of that for $115 USD, I could not pass it up. does the flow rate register properly for the entire loop? I assume it would. What is your flow rate?

@Mr. Fox I was gonna buy a flow meter. I have been wanting one forever now. So, I’m looking at the Aqua Computer Next RGB flow meter that measures flow rate, it measures water temp, and it measures water quality AKA: how much metal is in the water etc, or when it’s time to change that EARL 😂 kinda like a car does lol. Well, that Aqua Computer NEXT flow sensor only is $111 dollars. (😭 Very Very expensive) Anyways, I was browsing Titan Rig, and I found the Aqua Computer D5 NEXT pump with the same flow sensor attached to the pump housing with a D5 pump included for $115 with the 10% off coupon 🤣 (Why the heck not! I get a flow sensor, and a full power D5 pump attached to it for $4 more dollars🤯) (I’ll TAKE IT) 🙂 Only 1 was left in-stock. But, I would definitely grab grab one of these when they come back in-stock. You can add a pump, and remove your flow meter that could potentially restrict flow rate. What a deal!

My GPU is right at exactly 5lbs on a scale with no water in it. It’s super heavy. Fortunately it has laid vertical all this time. The rear thermal pad under the backplate added like 6-7 ounces to its weight 🤣