tps3443

Playing through Starfield for the 2nd time. Well, I actually didn’t quite finish it the first go around. But I’m starting a new game. I’ll say that this 4080 Super Suprim-X has no problem running the game 4K native completely maxed out and giving a good frame rate. I am amazed by running the game with 4K+DLAA+Frame Gen. This provides a native picture and offers a very nice frame boost which feels very smooth at 100+ FPS. I’m actually liking frame gen a lot. It’s not perfect. But it gives you another setting to tweak. And in this case it pays off well. We usually have two common options with graphics cards in more demanding games. But with frame gen we get a middle ground or third option. (1) DLSS Quality, ULTRA, highest FPS with just slightly lower image quality. Smoothest latency. Best performance usually. (2) Native 4K ULTRA, best image quality very playable FPS still but feels buzzy/static like or jittery in the mouse. (3) DLAA 4K + Frame Gen best image quality, still very high frame rate, latency better than that of a demanding native 4K game with a lower FPS. 100+ FPS!!! 😁 Anyways, who’s buying a 14900KS on launch? I’ll be skipping this one. I was gonna grab one for testing just for fun. But now I’m thinking probably not. I expect they are $749.99 at Micro Center, but for NewScalpEgg they’re going to be $799.99+ tax. Or possibly even $819.99 if they start selling well.

Anyone know what’s wrong with Cyberpunk 2077? Trying to use Frame Gen and my GPU usage is horrible. 50-70% range with 4K and DLSS Quality. Losing lots of frames here. I also have to run my windows power plan on balanced mode, or else it skips really badly on High performance or Ultimate power plan it is literally unplayable. I don’t remember this game running so poorly, I have not really played it in a few years though. Many updates have happen since I use to actually play it. But it runs like crap. Running on a fresh OS windows 11, new GPU drivers as well. It just can’t hold my GPU usage up at all. Seems like a bug or glitch for sure? Another thing is, I cannot enable or disable Vsync in game, I feel like the OG Cyberpunk from 2020 ran far better than this.

I would probably delid and then compare with the KS since the KS runs 4.8E with direct die, I tested a 13900KS E-SP103 which could only run 4.7E before going on direct die. So direct die is still the savior for most regardless if its E95 or E100. The good new is It’s still a very respectable binned R batch chip that you have. So it kinda of makes no sense how I can run 66C at 5.9/4.8/5.0@300 watts with 15C water, while you are hitting 105C with 16C water With just 5.9/4.7/5.0. That’s really really hot! Thats a really huge difference in temps.

Looks like 14900KS material to me.

My brother just does gaming. He loves AMD 😁 so I think it will be okay for him. He’s not gonna be doing any work from the system, or doing anything but gaming and benching.

I was trying to convince my brother a 4070Ti Super for $799.99 would be a pretty good option. Or better yet just a used 4070Ti just for the good drivers and RT/DLSS performance. But he is set on a 7900XT/XTX. Anyways using bios 9901 I got 8600 C38-49-49-49-65 with tight secondary timings and 262k tREFI working really well. I am kind of surprised actually. Then again, I never really tried to go after 8600 with this CPU all that much. I was really in to the 8533c36 and 8400c34/36 timings they performed really good.

@electrosoft My brother is about to buy a 7900XTX. But I heard these GPU’s had some caveats etc, I can’t exactly remember what was the problem with them. What’s the consensus with these again? Didn’t you make a review of one?

Looks like that cheap Chinese stuff they sell in bulk tubs on Amazon. Probably the worst thermal rating.

Yep companies are making things small nowadays, even the fastest GPU’s are tiny little things once you remove its helmet of course. I’m being conservative especially because I do plan to grab a 14900KS. I want to compare with my really good 14900K. No delid on either, just head to head comparison. We’ll see what happens.

I’m interested in that bios 🤩! Could you email it to me? Thats for the white Apex right? I see you linked it! Never mind. Thank you.

This will be a test of its ability for sure. So far so good. No power shutdowns. It is a quality 1000 watt unit. I don’t think I’d ever need two PSU’s though. I have not had the best luck with power supplies. Seasonic 1200w Platinum (Power shutdowns at 700-800 watt loads) EVGA 1300G+ (Popped and smoked after 1 day) EVGA 1300P+ (Reliable but with coil whine, higher the frame rate the louder it was) Snack Sized MSI 1000W (So far so good lol) My CPU is very efficient 303 watts R23@5.9/4.8/5.0 auto voltage LLC4 The GPU can consume 380+ watts under a heavy overclock, but stock its sub 300 watts in 4K. D5 pumps typically use a max of 37 watts apparently, but I have an Aqua Computer D5 pump and at 100% or 4800RPM it only consumes 20 watts of power. So my pumps probably use 100 watts together all (5) of them. I have (2) 2TB M.2 SSD’s, and I use (1) 120MM fan. The PSU can handle about 1200 watts in a warm environment before kicking off. But I don’t think I can get near its limits. I know it’s tiny, and I know it’s kinda hilarious. And if it fails, I will go get me a big dog 1600 PSU lol. But I really don’t think I need more than a 1,000 watt.

😆yeah yeah Laugh it up I know. I know. But hey, at least it’s built properly and has silent operation 😃

Don’t laugh guys! lol. 🤣 This tiny little baby PSU is actually working great! Completely silent! No coil whine at all.

I use the ISO creation tool which is nice not sure which one it is. I can disable the TPM 2.0, and create a local account for the install. And when I load windows the first time it already has a local account made with no password, you better set a password before restarting windows during the first time loading after the “Getting things ready for you” or else you can’t login after a reboot because it’s a local account created with no password assigned, and you’ll have to reinstall windows all over again lol. TPM security is smart but stupid at the same time I think. Smart because back in the day you could just plug in someone’s HDD and use it on your PC. But it also sucks because flipping over to my motherboards bios position can trip the TPM and break my OS.

Thats really cool. I have been putting this off too long and I’m building my son a system right now. I’m not sure if I’m going to re-use an old Z490+DDR4 setup I have and grab a used 10900K and start with that. Or maybe I just go for a newer Intel system all together. I’m looking at 10900K prices and they seem a bit too expensive.

Lots of cool stuff coming out! I want one of those MSI Mpower Z790 2 slot boards, I didn’t know those were even coming out. I mean, I can already see 8200c36+ happening on that little cheap board easily. And for only $199.99 that leaves more money for CPU/GPU budget! How smart of MSI to offer a bare bones 2 dimm motherboard catered to overclocking for cheap. 😁

Yep lol. I probably should have just bought a 4090. I already have funds tied up in the (2) 4080 Supers for the moment. Newegg has yet to refund me on the other one. But I’m very happy with this 4080 Super Suprim X. I honestly didn’t think I’d like an air cooled GPU this much. Another shocker here, I have actually considered leaving it on air cooling! 😁 As for delidding this 14900KF, it really doesn’t need it. Delid would definitely drop temps -15C and drop more voltage off. But the daily reliability would go way down on it. Solder is such a great long term TIM no maintenance needed, and it’s already a beast. If a chip can perform good without a delid I always recommend that option. As for the power supply, I think this 1000 watt unit is probably just a stepping stone. I really want to see if my computer can run coil whine free lol. I have my doubts 😂. We’ll see tomorrow. All 5 of my pumps are mounted right to my test bench, so they all plug right in to the power supply that powers the system. No long cables or extensions. I only have 1 fan that I use to flow some air on the back of my GPU since using air cooled graphics cards lately. Other than that the wires are pretty tidy. I think these pumps only use 25-37 watts each, so maybe 125-185 extra watts on the system. I think it’s closer to 125 watt though. I should be okay inside of 1,000 watts I think. I just want to alleviate this electrical interference noise.

I bought a new power supply. Let’s see if MSI can keep this good quality streak up with their products! I ordered a MSI 1000 watt power supply. That is going to be a tight squeeze with my system and all of these pumps and accessories. But if it’s a quality unit it should handle my computers needs with no problems and no screaming sounds. I’m excited to get rid of the coil whine. 😃

Okay, benchmark time. I have been enjoying this GPU plenty in games. Now the rubber meets the road! Not bad for air cooling. I am really curious what chilled water would do for this GPU. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/107951133?loginkey=ZVhkhV4PxsU0X3fL9j34GA NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9 processor 14900KF,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG MAXIMUS Z790 APEX (3dmark.com)

I have been thinking about doing a Retro build. Using older parts but high end parts. I think it would be awesome. One GPU I have always liked is the MSI GTX 780 lightning.

@Papusan Linus did a unboxing of your latest acquisition. 😁

Well, time for a new PSU. I think I’ll give MSI Meg unit a try 🤷‍♂️. I’m just ready to alleviate my self from all the coil whine I have been dealing with for years now on my EVGA units. I’m open to other suggestions though. Looking at this MSI 1000/1300 watt MEG Platinum rated units. It is $251 to $309. Looks like I will be able to skip the adapter too for my GPU and use the included native PCI-e Gen5 cable. I’m definitely open to other options though. I just want a high quality and quiet power supply. https://us-store.msi.com/PC-Components/Power-Supply/Gaming-Power-Supplies/MEG-Ai1000P-PCIE5?sort=p.price&order=DESC

Just use Alt+R to quickly turn the Nvidia OSD on or off in game or on the desktop. I primarily use it in games for the 99% low feature. It helps me to check memory overclocks to make sure I’m not losing performance with too tight of ram timings etc. And it won’t cause a hit to your GPU usage like MSI Afterburner or HWinfo can. It’s nothing super fancy, but it works.

I’m becoming an MSI fanboy, it’s terrible because it can cloud your judgement! But everything I have owned MSI is amazing. My prior MSI Unify-X Z690, and this MSI Suprim 4080 is just ridiculously good. I can’t explain why it’s so great but this might just be one of the best out of box video cards I have owned in an long while, and that’s even with the 20% premium over the Founders Edition. 🤷‍♂️ I hope MSI gets back in to the (2) Dimm motherboard game again. Being that we have 2x24GB and 2x48GB, I see no reason for (4) Dimm motherboards unless it’s a Godlike which I think is catered to workstation users? Anyways, I’d probably trade my Apex right on in for something like a Unify-X Z790 CAUTION: Mean MSI dragon below.

I can say I definitely trust modern OLED pretty good now. When I first bought this refurbished Aorus 48” OLED monitor it had exactly 38 hours on it. But I am about to cross the 1,000 hour threshold. I always let it run the panel protection features every 4 hours of constant on time. (This alerts you automatically, but some people ignore it) my windows also turns off my monitor after 5 minutes of idle usage. Never had a single problem with burn-in. This monitor is as gorgeous as ever. Just figured I’d share if anyone is considering grabbing an OLED. I plan to push this panel to 10K hours and beyond. 😃 The last picture is an example of how the blacks are. It looks like an actual BLACK. It really is cool.