tps3443

This is a great DDR5 8000.C34 memory profile to start with @Mr. Fox this is legit HEAVY HEAVY HEAVY stable too. I ran Anta777Extreme for nearly 2 hours with no errors on the first try.

It looks like you have all (4) O-Rings in the top block in the picture. Unless I am missing something here. Someone I know said to message him on Facebook directly. He also responds quickly in the YouTube comments too.

Uh oh! Looks like you are missing a back plate, and (3) screws. That’s a screw up on Supercools behalf there @Mr. Fox. That really sucks too. I would post a comment on the YouTube video, and send him a message as well. On your first pic I missed that completely.. Are you missing the (3) screws on the inside as well that hold the back plate on?

Yeah, mine are pretty well covered with these supercool spreaders. You’d only see RGB if you looked inside of them through the side hole. And it actually looks kinda cool. Because it’s hidden RGB. I want to try some of those 25.0W/mk pads. Or maybe even just some 20W/mk pads. I’d be curious to see if there’s an improvement on a GPU, or if I’m just wasting my time.

Yeah, I think the kit is really great that water actually channels over the IC’s. When I first got these I thought water would cool both sides of the DDR5. But, since it’s for single sided DDR5 it really doesn’t make since to do so. And it makes perfect sense for our DDR5 to only be cooled on one side, since essentially the back side is blank on our rams, and it only gets/needs a thin back plate, kind of like a GPU would have lol. Anyways, I’m going to re-mount mine and user higher quality 0.5MM thermal pads. Not that’s it’s needed, but I have to tear things down again anyways for re-doing my loop.

Hey, your pic is correct! And here is a video that will help @Mr. Fox Yes the foam pad goes against the back of the blank side memory PCB. I would not peel off of the sticky tape either, if you do you won’t be able to slide the modules forward backward to line up with the dimms when you go to insert it as 1 whole piece. Your pic is the proper layout though. You can take everything apart to assemble, it’s very easy to reassemble too. You really only have to unscrew the waterblock top screws on one module, and the 3 screws for each of their back plates and you will have access to everything. Put 0.5mm pad on each IC, and 1.0MM pad on the PMIC, then line the inner memory stick up with the memory waterblockblock (same amount sticking out on each side), or as best as you can, then tighten the 3 screws on the inner stick backplate. Then mount your outer stick and line it up with the already mounted memory stick exactly. Then tighten that ones back plate on too. My temps were identical Dimm1/Dimm2 on air cooling without watercooling hooked up. Once I added water cooling I got a deviation between their temps by about 3.5C. Not sure why. Still, they run stupid cold lol.

Here is the bios I am using right now 520W KP LN2 Re-bar bios. Coincidentally, I actually switched over to this bios last night (Bios switch) just to try it out at 4K. I have been running the 1KW KP bios for the past year straight daily. Only some situations really need the 1KW bios. One example is Cyberpunk 2077 in 4K with an overclock, a few other games can benefit from the 1KW bios but this is really only with HEAVY overclocks, and with lots of extra voltage added with the Kingpin tool app. The Kingpin tool lets you send 1.600V to the GPU if you really wanted to lol. VGA Bios Collection: EVGA RTX 3090 24 GB | TechPowerUp

I can send you mine right off the card. The 1KW bios is quirky. I only recommend it for the actual 3090KP. That bios uses default clocks, and lower voltages. Since with the KPX tool we can increase the voltages etc it makes it not as quirky on the KP cards. The 520W bios is much better for a daily.

@Reciever You should try the Kingpin 520W bios. It’s the best bios for any RTX3090 model. It will make your 3090 slightly faster than a stock 3090Ti FE. It is absolutely worth it! I know several people who use the bios on an FE, and other random 3090 AIB models. You won’t need to overclock at all, the card will automatically run 2,025-2,070Mhz depending on your temp.

I am not sure how I’m going to route everything, I have (4) D5’s right now I think it may be enough but I might need to seriously rethink their locations I may even transition to the Eheim 1260 pumps that are 110V, I didn’t want to do that. I may grab some G1/4 to G/4 fittings and direct thread (2) D5 pumps right on the tank inlet and outlet, then run a support D5 near my PC parts, and run another support D5 on the chiller side. My water pressure right now is seriously an insane amount. I can totally fill my 300MM reservoir, and with a tea pitcher of distilled water ready to go I can’t pour fast enough before my reservoir is dry and sucking air. I may even run a D5 direct thread to the chiller inlet and one on the outlet, and D5’s direct threaded to the tank inlet and tank outlet and just hook my PC up in between those lines.

I am going to get a roll of that stick foam that is just like what’s on the chillers internal tank. All of my tubing is insulated with 5/8 ID pipe foam, and my tubing is 5/8 OD, it was a tight fit getting everything installed. I’m not really after crazy cold temps, I’m just after accurate/consistent temps if possible. If my water is 15C, I want it to stay around that temp +/- 10% threshold 15-17C tops. Right now I am at about a +/- 35% threshold lol. If my GPU is running 24C in a game, it could get as warm as 32.5C due to warming water and chiller kick on delay. When pushing the very bleeding edge of GPU overclocks that massive deviation and delay can cause annoying stability issues. I may try the foam cooler method, if wrapping it in black foam sheets doesn’t work very well. The plastic is 1/4” thick on the tank. I’m hoping it will already be decently insulated and just need the thin foam sheet layer.

I can’t even believe DDR5 9000 posted on the very first try. 😂 DDR5 8800 was so stable, that I was like… (I’m not doing it) it’s fast enough. And I could not resist. It ain’t stable, but I may be able to make it so. @Mr. Fox PS: I ordered these items for my chiller. I finally got me a 10 Gallon buffer tank. This buffer tank will prevent my chiller from having temperature deviations, and it will maintain a very precise water temp at all times. And It’ll stop it from cycling every 2-3 minutes when my PC is idling. It’s gonna lock in a consistent water temp within 1-2C at all times, whether it be idle or under load 🙂. Having a chiller is awesome, but if you don’t have a buffer tank, and you are pushing the limits of the chillers “Cooling Capability” you can set a water temp to 15C, the chiller runs and cools down to 15C and turns off. Then your system will have already rapidly warm the water to 18-20C before the chiller even realizes it needs to turn on. (This does not always happen) but this happens without a buffer tank under extreme loads in games. The chiller should run down to 15C, have enough water to handle and stay cold during that long delay under load for it to realize it’s dumb, then the chiller realizes it needs to kick its self in the butt and turn on. By this point the water is still 16.5C so it’s perfect and won’t cause an influx in warmer water and water time to cool it all back down very much lol. (This is what a buffer tank provides) 🙂 The only other way to avoid having consistent super cold water temp is to set the chiller at a level lower than it can reach. Then, it’ll run and run and run forever during heavy loads gaming etc. However, my chiller will typically run down to 8-9C easily under load, this causes condensation in the summer months. ^ I got tired of dealing with this lately, so I got a big 10 gallon tank. I’m gonna insulate the tank so it stays super cold, and it’s gonna cause the chiller to hardly ever cycle and maintain a constant accurate temp at all times. If chiller weren’t so slow and dumb we would t have this issue. But, these things are designed for 50+ gallon heat tanks, with fish that aren’t putting out 500-800 watts lol.

They fixed The Witcher III DX12/RTX version !!!! It is butter smooth now. 1% lows are like 52FPS and 60ish average now. 🤯 It looks beautiful, and it’s butter butter butter smooth!!

I love re-doing thermal pads and paste and stuff and seeing the results especially with a GPU on a waterblock. There are some 25W/mk pads available from TG as well, I would love to try them! It’s crazy how the thermal pad industry and conductive forms have taken off! I remember on Amazon when all we could get was cheap or premium Fujipoly.

Wait, so you put that phase change pad on the GPU die? And it runs cooler than KPX thermal paste? Another interesting thing is, your memory junction temp is lower than the die temp. That’s very interesting. I’m using Thermalright TFX on my GPU die, but now I want to try this! I’m not sure if I’ll see any gains. My block is +14.5C delta over water temp @520 watts. But, I’d love to get even more! I think we are supposed to freeze the PTM7950 before peeling the plastic it helps prevent tearing, that’s just something I read😁

I found a 3090 Kingpin with Optimus Signature KINGPIN waterblock. The guy PM’ed me and said he’d sell the block only for $500 bucks. I thought, hmm okay maybe I’ll get it. Then not even 30 minutes later, he’s like I will only sell them together ($1,000 bucks) for 3090KP+Optimus Signature KP block 😞 I’m tempted to buy it, and NVLink these together. Run some benchmarks, and then sell off the worst overclocker with the KP HC block lol. I just want the Optimus block honestly! The block is the black version, and it has the 4090 Gen 2 cold plate installed.🙂 so even better performance than normal. I’ve always wanted to try the so called “Best GPU block in the world” they are absolutely legendary, Here are some pics of it.

@Mr. Fox You can try these timings as well. This is DDR5 8800 C40 (Just started testing it) I am back to my DDR5 8800 profile, which worked really great for daily usage even stock on air cooling for gaming only and work etc. But I'll probably do 20-30 minutes of memory testing using Anta777 Extreme, and if its good then I will leave it. I may be able to even get DDR5 9000 I haven't tried that one just yet. This is with: •Auto IVR TX voltage •VDDQ Voltage Training enabled. •CPU IMC voltage is set at 1.481V (Not even sure I need that much, but it's a starting point, my profile actually only had it set to 1.400V for DDR5 8800, but I feel like that is not enough based on other people) •1.600V MEM VDD •1.55V MEM VDDQ •SA voltage is auto 1.332V •CPU@6.0Ghz P-Cores •CPU@4.6Ghz E-Cores •5.0Ghz Ring

That’s Great. This just makes things even worse than they were lol.

DUDE!!! Thanks. Seeing this on Dying Light 2 is really gonna help. That game is probably the heaviest in 4K. F**K you NVIDIA!!!! I’m keeping my 3090 🤣 AMD loves us more I guess. It’s frustrating how the RTX3090/3090Ti can be such a powerhouse in raw rasterization. But smoothness is smoothness, and RTX4000 series wins here easily by having the Frame Gen feature. Nvidia is essentially forcing people to upgrade, however the RTX4070Ti is a steaming pile of poop in true 4K, and it has a little baby sized 12GB GDDR6, then we have the RTX4080 which is very strong but still only has 16GB of GDDR6. It’s like Nvidia knows this, and they are allowing us to be shot in the foot with 4070Ti/4080, or bending over and slotting in the 4090 with 24GB. 😂

What games is it released on? Besides the 2.3Ghz internal clock speed, this FSR3 is really gonna save my 3090 Kingpin. I’m hoping to see FSR3 mature nicely. I think it’s disgusting that Nvidia did not offer frame regeneration on RTX3000 series. 😞 this is one of the main things I’m so upset with them over.

That is awesome!!! Thanks AMD!!!

@Mr. Fox My HWINFO did not have that feature, I was like what in the heck, I do not see that option. Okay here you go I got HWinfo v7.62 now! This is my timings that I used for 56 minutes of Anta777 Extreme with Testmem5 at 8600. After 56 min or so, it did show like 2-3 errors. Correct Timings I used

I used a blow dryer and they got burning hot really quickly. And then I just slowly peeled the cheap covers and light bars away from the memory sticks. Then I poured alcohol on a dinner plate, laid the memory flat on the plate then I swap sticks between soak/scrub/soak, then scraped off that sticky tape stuff with a plastic scraper/finger nail and / dawn dish soap. It was all pretty quick, and was not bad at all. It took me an hour to fully prep the sticks. Mine were 100% spotless clean too.

Looks like a nice CPU. I really like the KS it was such a massive jump over the standard K which is crazy for being the same generation and from the same slabs of silicon. Intel screened these really well, because any KS is really good. Now, this has me wondering what 1 whole year later gets us? KS was so much better than K, then 14th gen must be like a KS-X. I just want something like that 1st SP117 Global 13900KS I tested. It was just ridiculous. I loved it. If the 14900K brings us that, 😁 I’m all for it. I just know, I’m not binning any 14th gen at all. I’m gonna order (1), delid it, and be happy that it’s better than what I had already. I have an SP104 global KS, so the bar ain’t very high 😂

1.500 MEM VDD 1.450 MEM VDDQ 1.320 IVR TX 1.420 IMC CPU SA Auto 1.332V Cpu voltage is auto with LLC#1 I these are pretty loose timings mostly auto, but I can share them.