Bidelloman
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Everything posted by Bidelloman
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This little golden ring came out of the fourth cpu screw hole. Any advice on how to put it back on safely? Thanks
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you run windows 11? I heard microsoft won't support windows 10 wifi 7
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been wondering for a while if that was possible, did you simply do a swap of cards? how's the performance?
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I need to be able to run mods/ mats tests for the laptop's gpu. Problem is, without legacy mode enabled, the test won't run correctly. When I enable it in bios, pc won't even POST. Can anyone help?
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x170's heatsink tolerances are shit, you are far better off using putty and ptm, than sticking with pads. Or do what ztec did, which is LM and k5pro ( sewing off the fourth cpu screw, replace them with 2.5 x10 + washers), bit messier and k5 is less performant than many if not most putties, and with LM you have to be even more careful with tolerances and ofc not touching any conductive bit.
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You are correct. The pad links 2 pcbs. The m.2s however, I got some heatsinks from the same hybrid watercooler heatsink source. As for your temperature and noise endeavor, I highly suggest cpu delid ptm 7950 and some taobao fans which imo work great and are less noisy.
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thank you for that chart, I personally gave up trying to find out a damn thermal pad for vram chips that wouldn't thermal throttle my gpu, so now I'm going with a good putty on caps, vram, vrms, mosfets, everything. Would you be able to check the orientation and position of the big thermal pad that sits under the mxm gpu? thank you
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correct, some applied heat will soften pcm and then you're good to go, could also use a hair dryer on it, few seconds will suffice
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Is this the correct pad orientation and position?
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Same as the one I used already, and this now is toast. So probably better to go for a different one.
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Yeah...this is where mine comes too
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Anyone here experienced enough with buying a replacement 3080 mxm? I am in need of one and some of those ebay listings seem dodgy.
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Yeah, only be careful when removing the heatsink, too much pressure or strain and you can damage the cpu or gpu
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Yeah. Gpu needs changing, since reballing or replacing chips is expensive. Given that this gpu came from a famous listing of used 3080 where most of us got it, I was wondering where, now, I am supposed to get a replacement 3080 mxm. Some ebay listings are marked as "new", but who knows..
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I am guessing more vram, specifically, but will need to run tests.
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Guys, what do you think this is? Pc loads everything, but gpu driver does not load in, also hwinfo does not detect much about gpu. Device manager reports gpu driver error. Rest of the pc is useable. I am assuming this is indeed the gpu, or maybe vram?
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if fans work and temperature takes very little time to get to that point, then it is likely contact issue, caused by either the screws or wrong thermal pads ( either thickness or softness, especially vram ones tend to be picky)
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Yeah, but I have no use for them. Guess I'll find a way to recycle them somehow
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anyone interested in smg - kmg heatsinks btw? I got some spare.
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1) not sure pins can be replaced easily by a user 2) you do need to get prema bios back somehow yes 3)kmg motherboard is actually reasonably different, moreover, no prema there, but there are other bios mods 4) where you bought it I assume? clevo's shop, or any other clevo reseller, could try ebay maybe?
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I'm not too sure about the vram pads, I tried everything that isn't the stock version at 1.5 mm and they all cause gpu thermal throttling for lack of contact, only the stock super squishy pads seem to work
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The heatsink's surface and the copper ihs are heavily stained to the point of uneven surface after months of LM ( conductonaut) use regardless of how irrelevant ion migration from the gallium component is towards copper surfaces, also for some reason LM applications on the heatsink did not last very long at all and it dried out very easily, while LM between cpu and ihs last much longer in my experience. Moreover one should be careful with replacing screws on the gpu's vapor chamber, it can easily bend. Main issue with a unified heatsink on a laptop will be proper contact, guessing that is why ptm is more adaptable to the situation. Still have not tried the 3 screw mod on the cpu side, was never convinced with it given that it takes you to saw off the smaller fourth mount, but one can replaced those screws and add washers with ease. Besides, there is also the question of power limits. 2 280w bricks won't allow much more than this, but then again usually combined loads see a bit lower wattages from cpu
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The only way to tame cpus like 10700 or 10900 in the x170 is to delid it, use liquid metal between cpu and ihs ( copper ihs is preferable) and then ptm7950 ( which is my setup currently, best for contact in my experiences ) for both cpu ihs and gpu, probably with the screw mod discussed here many times and the new fans, with an undervolt of around 80 to 90 mv in order to allow the 10900 to get to 5+ ghz. With this and the standard air heatsink setup, you can get the 10900k to almost 200watts without thermal throttling for a bit, and something like 150w 160w continous without issues ( 190+ starts to be a problem fo me), with a sustainable combined power consumption of around 530w to 540w ( with a 150w 3080). One could probably get better results from having a clean and lapped heatsink +ihs, mine has been stained by LM use, regardless of my attempts to clean it and flitz polish it. Putty or good thermal pads would also be preferable, but one does need to pay attention to vram pads, which need to be quite squishy and soft. Water heatsink setup however could have more headroom, with the obvious issues on movability.
