Mr. Fox

Same... 🤣

Not my best score, but not far behind it...

The end result is exactly what I expected it to be, so no surprises. But, the only way to know for sure is to confirm through actual use, or attempted use. I expect poor performance from all products. It's up to those selling them to prove themselves to not be liars and snake oil salesmen.

I really am looking forward to seeing how Battlemage works out. If I were buying a GPU today and wanted the best performance, 4090 is the only logical option. The price is idiotic, even for the cheapest one, but still "worth it" in the general sense that it is better to overpay for something good than to overpay for something not so good. If I could not purchase a 4090, the next option would be 4080 if I needed one today. It is a poor value and I would try very hard to come up with the extra $400-$500 to purchase a 4090 instead. But, I would not even consider the other options new and I would settle for something used from last generation rather than settle for an AMD GPU or something castrated like a 4070 Ti scam product. Well, Kryosheet is crap. Doesn't work worth a damn, unless you think normal high end thermal pastes are good. In that case it is probably awesome. It just can't handle an overclocked 13900KS at all. It performs on par with popular thermal pastes, which is unacceptable for an overclocked CPU. I view it as a totally unusable product for that. I saved it with zero damage and may try it on my laptop someday when I run out of things to do. @Papusanyou were curious. How 'bout no, LOL. Brother @Talonsent me a tube of Honeywell PTM7958. Thank you so much! It performs about the same as KPX or other popular thermal pastes. So, yeah... not good enough for an overclocked 13900KS. It performed almost exactly the same as the Kryosheet. So, back to the liquid metal. No other good option available. This stuff was not fun to spread. It is like clay, softened wax or softened kneaded eraser, and it takes a lot of pressure to even get it out of the syringe. It is not very sticky. It is much firmer than the thermal putty EVGA used on the 3090 KPE VRMs. I did spread it and got excellent coverage. It will be amazing for a laptop or a GPU that doesn't pull as many watts. There is no question in my mind that it will be durable, and the perfect solution for sloppy-fitting turdbook heat sinks. This is perfect for that. It is easily removed using a thermal paste spatula. It comes off like soft wax. When I need to repaste the 4090 I will probably use the PTM7958 paste. The pad equivalent worked amazing on the 6900 XT and the 4090 doesn't get nearly as hot as the 6900 XT. Removing my water block, it pulled the CPU (that was taped down for bare die) out of the socket. It suck well enough that the tape could not hold it down. I got it more than hot enough to melt, and it absolutely melted and got phenomenal coverage. I let my system cool overnight to normalize with ambient temperature and tried it again this morning and the temps were as unacceptable as they were last night. I did not save a screenshot. I must have forgotten. But, there's nothing to see. Look at the Kryosheet temps (above) and shuffle the core order and that's what it was. Same thing basically.

I can't imagine them passing up an opportunity to screw their most loyal early-adopters with the deepest pockets. That's how they roll.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnUCYHvorrk&t=1409s I cannot imagine you being satisfied with one and I would hate to see you waste $1,000 on something you're probably going to hate. Their best option isn't the best option, it is just a couple hundred cheaper option for an inferior product. 7900XTX runs neck-and-neck with 4080 until you try to play games with ray tracing, at which point the 7900XTX falls on its face. https://www.techspot.com/review/2746-amd-radeon-7900-xtx-vs-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080/ You can get a Galax 4090 SG on Amazon for under $1700 and that utterly destroys 7900XTX and 4080. If you are wanting a good 4K gaming experience you will need a 4090 to do it right, and if you look at the latest reviews of the "free" FSR3 it is a hot mess. Hardware Unboxed has a new video showing it is not that great. The title is clickbait, as the review leads to an opposite conclusion. Caveat emptor.

Aside from that, even if you are a benching fanatic, the cost of things is so far out of scope with the value of the products and the benefits of owning the product that the idea of upgrading to something newer is becoming a very foolish and a frivolous endeavor. Computers, and the parts used to build them, have never been an "investment" but they've not been this grossly overpriced unless you go back like 35 years ago, to a time when personal computers were an uncommon novelty item. I can't identify anything other than SSDs that represent good value from a cost/benefit perspective. It is even worse if you live in a country like @Papusan with a government that seeks to financially harm its citizens with Satanic taxation practices.

That's pretty sweet. I am going to have to look into doing that. Great idea. I might go for 5 gallons due to my limited space, but I think even 5 gallons would be a huge benefit. I am seriously considering the idea of putting a 5 gallon tank inside of a mini-fridge since I don't run the chiller except when benching. I will just use my 20mm hole saw and a passthrough fitting for the lines to plumb it permanently if I go that route. If it works well enough I will sell both of my 360mm radiators and route both computers through the same loop routed through the chiller and mini-fridge, LOL. Edit: Another idea... Maybe skip the tank and mini-fridge and get one of these, fill it with automotive antifreeze and use it as the tank. Could even use a submersible aquarium/yard pond pump inside of it. Might not even need the chiller, LOL. If it works this would be A LOT less expensive than a chiller. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chest-Freezer-3-5-Cu-ft-Deep-Freezer-Top-Open-Door-Removable-Storage-Basket-7-Gears-Temperature-Control-Energy-Saving-Ideal-Office-Dorm-Apartment-Whi/1463248241 @Papusan @Rage Set@johnksss

Thank you for the picture that makes more sense now. I don't understand why they have that foam border on top of the cooler. I've never seen anything like that and it doesn't make any sense to me. I can see it maybe if the bottom of the laptop was supposed to seal against it so that air got forced into the bottom vents with no way to leak around the outside of it. But with a laptop smaller than the foam border it seems like it would just get in the way. I can see how your paper trick helped fix that.

This is looking pretty good. P:60x / E: 48x / C: 50x / M: 8600

I am trying to get a mental picture of what you are descibing and I am drawing a blank, especially the reference to foam. Can you please post a photo showing what you did? Nice job, brother. That is a significant improvement.

So, that's good. I guess. It means 71.64% of Windows users can be assumed to be smarter than the minority. It's unfortunate that the Redmond Reprobates can't figure out that their "features" and "improvements" are not useful or appreciated, and some are viewed as loathesome.

Thanks for asking, brother. Actually, the problem is resolved now. Supercool is sending me the missing parts and I was thinking you could tell if he was talking about the new memory cooling kit design. So, all good now. I received a new item directly from the manufacturer in China for product review. It arrived in a wooden crate yesterday, LOL. 🤣 Needless to say, it arrived in perfect condition. The only "damage" was scratches to the cardboard box inside of the wooden box from the screws attaching the hinges.

Even when it doesn't produce better benchmark results, it is still pretty crazy and amazing to be able to run system memory at 8000 and higher. It seems like only yesterday that 4000 was considered exceptional. At a certain point it reaches a place where going faster doesn't produce meaningful results in day-to-day performance. Kind of like how it is very difficult to tell the difference between a fast SATA SSD and NVMe in your normal daily use. Easy to spot in a benchmark, but otherwise not very noticeable. Maybe one of these days I will look into adding an insulated tank. It's a good idea. Too many projects right now, but worth doing. Not enough hours in the day to do anything extra right now. I also want to explore the idea of adding both desktops into a single chilled water loop. I think that is doable. I think the ambient temperature warm the water as much as the computers do. Removing radiators from the chilled loop dramatically lowers the temperatures. The radiators help warm the water to ambient and actually hinder the chiller, so I could eliminate the need for radiators completely for both systems. That might be an example of where having the tank submerged in ice inside of an insulated cooler to supplement the chiller would be good. You wouldn't need to fill it with ice for daily use, just for benching. I think the chiller would cool both of them enough for normal daily use with an insulated tank. I also thought about buying a used mini-fridge at a yard sale and putting the tank inside of the mini-fridge to further cool the water and supplement the abilities of the chiller. I could just tuck the mini-fridge in a corner under one of my desks. Or, I could put it in a corner with the chiller sitting on top of it.

With loose timings the returns are starting to diminish. With tighter timings, my read, write and copy speeds at 8200 are better than 8600, and require 150mV less VDD at 8200. So, to some degree the higher clocks are just for fun and e-peen. I won't be able to really push the memory much harder until I get the sticks on water. They start to overheat and error out and BSOD around 62-65°C with air cooling with the factory heating blankets. @tps3443Supercool responded and apologized for the oversight. Said he would ship the missing parts right away.

I'll loosen up the timings a bit to match yours and try bumping from 8600 to 8800.

There are no o-rings. What are you seeing that looks like o-rings? There is a slot where o-rings should be, but they are empty. I emailed their Gmail address and used the "Contact Us" from the store page. If I do not get a reply by the time I get off work I will message them on Facebook. I try to avoid logging into Facebook as much as I can. Edit: I see the o-rings are translucent now. After turning on the lights in my office to get a better look they are there, but hard to see. They look like an empty o-ring groove without bright lighting. I saw your previous photos showing black o-rings. I posted a comment on the YouTube video.

Missing backplate, screws and o-rings. Lovely. 😑 Wonder how long it will take to resolve? I wish mine was black. Sucks that they waited to release it and everyone that doesn't like white got what they got. Now I feel like I got screwed by ASUS again. They excel at that. I hate ASUS. They suck.

I have been meaning to test it bare die to see how it compares with liquid metal. I went ahead and ordered a piece sized for bare die. Maybe I can find time to test this weekend. @tps3443that didn't answer a question I had upon initial inspection, and I cannot understand what they are saying. Maybe @Clamibotcan translate. He clearly has an older design in the video, but it raises the same question I had as soon as I unboxed it. His video shows a backplate on each module. The kit I received DOES NOT include a backplate for both modules, only one for the outside stick with the bare side of the PCB. My kit does not have the piece where the red arrow is pointing. Only has the backplae where the green arrow is pointing. Is that how yours is made also, or did they accidentally omit a part out of my kit? The photos on the Supercool web site are not helpful at all because they are incomplete and do not accurately depict what the kit should look like. This is how mine arrived. Notice the difference? Is something missing, or that is the new design?

I have some 12.8W/mK pads that I will be using. I'm still kind of tempted to desolder the LEDs on my G.SKILL modules while I have it apart. I wish that I could find some modules that are functionally the same or better than these that don't have RGB.

Thanks, brother. The process is very similar to my other water cooled memory configuration other than the sandwich part. Each module has its own jacket, but you have to get the jackets lined up in order for the block on top to align correctly with its screw holes.

@tps3443my memory kit arrived. It is made different than what was evident in photos. Too bad they did not include any kind of documentation. Do you know if Supercool has a video showing the way they recommend assembling, or did you just determine that by examining the parts? (It looks pretty simple based on what I am seeing.) This assembly is incredibly heavy. If you ever dropped your case or set it down extra hard I could see it damaging the memory slots like a GPU floppy around in the PCIe slot. It looks like these actually stack with no air space between the modules if I am interpreting what I am looking at. It seems to make a sandwich with no backplate for the first module, just a foam pad between the back of the PCB and the cold plate for the second module. Am I interpreting that correctly? So, did you assemble it without the Allen screws tight before installing in the slots, then once the modules were inserted into the motherboard, then tightening down the back plate Allen screws to smush the sandwich together? Then, last step tighting the Allen bolts on top? There probably would not be enough space between the modules for a back plate for each RAM stick because the cold plate in the middle takes up most of the space.

I used the 1KW vBIOS almost exclusively and I had zero issues with it. But, I also increased my core voltage to like 1.350V and 1.400V, maxed out the LLC to stop vdroop and increased the VRM switching to like 800K, which you can't do on a consumer card. I did not overclock using the stock voltage and 100mV slider because that wasn't nearly enough. The 520W vBIOS was excellent for everyday gaming and just letting the GPU work normally without overclocking. But, I almost never used it. I just left the switch on for the 1KW firmware all of the time. I also kept the boost lock enabled almost all of the time.

I just thought of something. Are you going to rely on internal pressure buildup in the tank to keep the water flowing? You might need more pumps or a much stronger pump because of how big the tank will be. The chiller tank is filled with coils that chill the water if I am remembering correctly, so there is not as much dead space inside of it. But 10 gallons, or even 5 gallons, is a lot of water to keep moving and I wonder if normal PC pumps will be able to handle that well enough. If you place a pump on both inlet and outlet sides it might be adequate, but I am thinking they should both be situated close to the inlet and outlet. At least a pump near the tank on the outlet side. If the fittings are not on opposite ends of the tank, or you do not put a hose on the inlet side, inside of the tank, to cause it to expel water from the hose that reaches to the opposite end of the tank it might take longer to get the water cold, and/or be more difficult to keep it cold, due to poor circulation if both ports are on the same end of the tank. The water flow would take the shortest path and it might stay warm on the dead end, if that makes sense.

If is will fit inside of a cooler you can add ice to the cooler and get it even colder. And, that would also help insulate it when you don't have ice in the cooler. An inexpensive styrofoam cooler would work fine to experiment, and if that worked well you could get a nicer cooler to make it permanent. If it did not work well, just leave it inside of there and fill the air space with that spray-can expandable foam insulation. If you put the 10-gallon tank inside of a plastic bag first then you wouldn't have to worry about the spray-in foam insulation sticking to the tank and messing it up. It might not hurt to get some of that black foam pipe insulation to put on the tubing going from the tank to the chiller and from the chiller to the PC to avoid the loss of coldness. On your 1/2 to 1/4 NPT fitting, get a barb fitting for the inside and put a piece of tubing on it to force water to enter the tank on the opposite end of where it leaves the tank to force circulation of the water inside of the tank. This will help keep all of the water in the tank the same temperature. https://www.walmart.com/ip/LifeMade-Envirocooler-Biodegradable-28-QT-Chest-Cooler-White/779723826? Awesome. That's so sweet. 🧡