Mr. Fox

Yes, it does seem very high and it may not be accurate. But, as long as it is consistent and allows you to spot problems if they arise that is the greater value in having it. Knowing for certain the precise flow rate measurement really isn't that critical. If it falls for some reason and your temperatures increase, you would want to know and investigate. The measurement would be valuable without a number. It could be high, medium-high, medium, medium-low and low, for example.

Here is my latest (went live yesterday). https://extremehw.net/all-reviews/corsair-hs80-rgb-wireless-premium-gaming-headset-review/ The next one is on another DDR5 kit that will likely be finished over the weekend and go live early next week. It never ceases to amaze me that results often depend on who is doing the testing/measuring. And, the working environment has a major effect on things. The best way to identify improvement potential is before and after results, when that is possible. The amount of improvement (or regression) should be relatively consistent even when the measurements differ from one system to the next.

Here is a SK Hynix A-die memory overclock at 8500, LOL. Crazy. https://valid.x86.fr/lcqf0f

At least the motherboard OEM can fix Micro$lop's botched up messes with a BIOS update. Thankfully, it only affects access within Windows and you can still change voltage in the BIOS. How much do you want to bet that they will leave their laptops broken and only fix it on desktop motherboards? Then laptops owners are getting screwed again, as they always do. No BIOS menus to adjust and then locked out in Windows.

I have this one. I like it. It works well. It has an alarm that goes off if the water flow drops below a certain volume. If I turn off the PSU for my pumps and fans when I go away for a business trip and forget to turn the PSU back on it starts beeping to alert me. I do not use any software with it. I use it as a stand-alone product. No need for added bloat. It includes a cable to connect to a motherboard sensor header, but I also do not use that. No need for it. I can see what I need to know looking at the LCD screen. Igor tested the TF1. I have the TF2. Not sure what the differences are. AquaFlow makes nice products but I find them usually grossly overpriced and do not buy them for that reason. Their parts are also seldom available in the US and I have to order from Germany and that adds cost and complications that are best avoided if possible. https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Construction-Monitoring-Temperature-CL-W275-CU00SW/dp/B08B3S7L3Q

Sweet. I look forward to seeing more as you get this bad boy fired up.

I passed on it, too. Way too much money and not enough of an upgrade from 3090 KPE. And, more than anything else no water block available and probably will never be one. That totally killed any remote chance of me ever changing my mind. Totally dead end unless you specifically want a hybrid GPU and have no aspirations for something more. But, I know there are some people that want it specifically because it is a hybrid.

It would initially be painful and difficult, but in the long run I think a world without participation from China would be a better place. Without the rest of the world buying their crap they would simply return to being a third-world country with nothing to contribute. They would just dry up and blow away. Wouldn't hurt my feelings any. They've worn out their welcome as far as I am concerned and they have only themselves and their unacceptable behavior to blame for it. Let 'em rot in their own sewage.

Here is how I always did it... Use some needle-nose pliers and bend the crap out of the spring arms at the base where they attach to the heat sink so they end up at about a 45° angle from the point where it intersects with the point of attachment. Just be careful to not bend it inside of the area where it is attached to the heat sink so it doesn't break off. This is where using needle-nose pliers is beneficial. You can avoid putting pressure on the point of attachment while bending it. By bending it upward like that it will take a comparatively tremendous amount of force (which is not saying much since there is almost none on a stock heat sink) to push the arm down far enough to engage the screw into the threads on the x-bracket standoff. You want the bend to be increased only within the area marked with the yellow ovals.

More irrefutable evidence of their unquenchable love and kindness toward us all... First Batches of NVIDIA RTX 40-series Sitting in Warehouses Since August: Report The first batches of NVIDIA GeForce RTX 40-series "Ada" graphics cards were in production since Q2-2022, and have been sitting in warehouses in Taiwan since August, reports Tweaktown. NVIDIA probably decided against launching them sooner, as the crypto-currency crash left it with heaps of unsold high-end RTX 30-series graphics card inventory, forcing it to delay launch of the RTX 40-series, to allow time for the market to digest this inventory. It is now at a point where its retail partners have to clear out high-end SKUs such as the RTX 3080-series and RTX 3090-series at a third the street-price they commanded in the thick of the GPU shortage caused by crypto-mining through 2021; so NVIDIA could start pushing those RTX 40-series cards. The company is widely expected to announce the RTX 40-series later this month. Besides aggressive pricing, NVIDIA has been bundling its high-end RTX 30-series cards with AAA games. The best way to profit from demand is to limit the supply.

Finally took time to tighten things up on the Z690 Strix D4. It has some redeeming qualities, but DDR4 overclocking is DEFINITELY not one of them. I ran this memory at 4500 CL16 on the Z490 Dark and Z490 Strix sold to Brother @Reciever but it can't run stable above 4000 for some reason on Z690. I can run it at 4200, but not stable. I tested the 12900K and both 12900KSes and it is either ASUS cheaped out on the mobo or just Z690 doesn't like DDR4, not sure which.

Go EVGA, GO. Bring on the Revolution! Jolly Green Giant needs to learn the Golden Rule.

Yes, he is the proud owner of that rare gem.

I suspect it will hurt NVIDIA. We could see other AIB partner decide to follow in their shoes. Revolution has a side benefit that it usually grows stronger once someone with the gonads has the gumption to draw first blood. I'd kind of like to see it, too. I don't love NVIDIA, but I like AMD less. I am all for inflicting severe, long-lasting and catastrophic financial or devastating physical harm on big companies and governmental bodies that abuse their power and don't do exactly what the people that allow them the undeserved luxury to exist want done. I see it as justice working itself out. EVGA says they are not going to work with AMD, so we will have to see if that holds true. I can see reasons where they would not want to. They are probably no easier to get along with than NVIDIA. I might consider giving AMD another shot if EVGA were building them. One of the biggest issues, secondary to crap drivers, I have had with AMD has been sketchy reliability. EVGA is known for quality and if anyone were to affect that in a positive way it would be them.

This is very sad. I have purchased EXCLUSIVELY the EVGA brand in video cards since I ceased having an interest in AMD GPU trash. Not sure what I am going to do because ASUS, Gigabutt and others produce garbage with absolutely HORRID warranty service. Buying defective junk likely to fail, and difficult to get replaced is a bad way to live.

Looks like the seller I bought from now has two more sticks of SK Hynix M-die for sale Here is more info on A-die. Generic SK Hynix HMCG78AGBUA081N module part number. The memory IC part number for A-die is H5CG48AGBDX018. The JEDEC clock speed for A-die is 5600 versus 4800 for M-die and it seems like the increase in overclock headroom is similar. A-die is not in full production yet and modules using the IC are difficult to find and very expensive. https://www.igorslab.de/en/second-generation-ddr5-ic-sk-hynix-16-gbit-a-die-2x-16-gb-modules-review-with-overclocking-and-gaming-benchmarks/

I am eager to see Brother @Papusantemps as well. While not convenient, my Velocity2 block does every bit as good a job, perhaps slightly better, than the OptimusPC CPU block in terms of keeping the CPU cool. I am impressed with the appearance and results, but slightly put off by the inconvenience of the rear mounting hardware, much like I was with the Crosshair EK monoblock and the pain that was. However, I say that the monoblock was far worse because you had 4 additional screws for the VRM area that COULD NOT be accessed unless the motherboard was removed. The Velocity2 hardware is easily accessible as long as the hole in the motherboard tray is large enough. Both of mine are, but I have seen cases where the hole in the tray would not be large enough and difficult to access.

I find the mounting arrangement very inconvenient. Accessing the back of the motherboard while it is installed is easy on either of my cases but I know for some people that may not be true. Some motherboard tray are poorly designed and in some cases other things get in the way. But it is not convenient having to access both sides to remove the water block even when access is not impeded by other things. That being said, it looks good and the temperatures are very good. Then convenience is less problematic given that I'm using it on my work computer and I'm not frequently taking it apart and experimenting with different things like I am my benching rig. Did it help temperatures in your case? Same answer as Fire Strike. Buggy software and spastic laptops. Swings in scores and inconsistent results are expected and normal. K5 Pro offers no resistance to compression when used in place of a thermal pad, so it will not interfere with contact in any way. As long as you apply enough that it squishes out between the contact surfaces you'll be good to go, and the contact pressure would be the same or better (expect better) at the die when using K5 Pro versus thermal pads. K5 Pro is not better than pads as a TIM, and in some cases not as thermally conductive, but using it eliminates the possibility that thermal pads are interfering with contact and it maximizes contact on the surfaces where it is applied. That is the reason it is a good option. Given the haphazard and sloppy manner in which laptops are manufactured it covers a multitude of sins. Using shorter screws won't change anything. On the GPU you tighten the screws until the tension arm bottoms out against the X bracket. It's not going to get any tighter than that unless you increase resistance to tightening the screw by making the tension arm resist being pressed down against this standoff on the X bracket. Getting rid of the springs on the CPU and using ordinary screws will let you increase contact pressure on the CPU die. You have to pay attention to what is happening and not break anything, but you'd have to be kind of reckless to create a problem with over-tightening.

Buggy software. I have seen overstated Fire Strike scores that were totally impossible to achieve or replicate using the hardware they are run on, but validated by 3DMark due to glitches in the benchmark that skewed the results. Sometimes the overall score makes no sense, but it is calculated based on an algorithm that gives the most weight to one of the component sub-scores and ignores or discounts stellar performance to another component. Fire Strike is guilty of that. You can get a better overall score on a less powerful system with a strong GPU because Fire Strike doesn't give much credit for having a monster CPU. The combined score can bring down the overall score. You can have an insanely good graphics score and a sucky overall score if the combined test glitches out, and the combined test often glitches and can vary widely by GPU driver version. A laptop that "balances" power draw when the CPU and GPU are both under heavy load will commonly suffer in the combined test, which makes a big hit on the overall score.

Yes, Sabrent is a newcomer to market with RAM. They are the same M-die chips as what is found on my TG Delta and generic OEM modules and they overclock the same. It seemed odd at first, but I actually like not having any XMP profiles better. This was common on laptops, most of which couldn't benefit from XMP, but the generic Hynix sticks are the first desktop sticks I have owned with no XMP profiles since XMP was invented. Manual overclocking is always better because the XMP programming is usually half-assed, and the added cost of memory with XMP profiles added seems like a waste of money now. The Sabrent modules are my second pair without XMP. In light of how that sucks, as does the pathetic fake heat sink/no cooling garbage, on retail gamer memory trash, there is no point in leveling up with a brand name. You're actually leveling down and flushing your money down the toilet on nothing.

Here is some Sabrent Rocket DDR5. More to follow on this in a week or so. Another example of Hynix M-die overclockability. Note the DRAM:FSB ratio.

This fella has some hella electronics repair skills. Most people would have taken one look at it and decide it was over.

I always wanted a GTX 590 or 690.

I am not sure if I have seen an example of the stains you mention, but the issue I have always had getting a keyboard (desktop or laptop) to look like new is the fact that the keys are polished and have shiny spots from use. Nothing can be done to make it look new again on a laptop other than replace the keyboard. Same for touchpads, but mine generally stay looking like new because I refuse to use them unless I have no other alternative available. I loathe touchpads. I wish they sold laptops with a solid palmrest and no touchpad.