Mr. Fox

XTUSetup_7.9.0.24.zip

They may have. I have been using them for so long I can't remember now. Edit: Oh man, what an understatement. I said 5+ years ago and when you mentioned 2008 and showed the photo from back then I got curious. I checked my account and saw things I uploaded as many years ago, LOL. Wow... time flies when you're having fun, and even when you aren't.

All of his pictures posted in the thread around that time are gone and have that same thumbnail as a placeholder. I don't know if the image host is down or if they got deleted. That's why I only use imgur and postimg.org. I have images saved 5+ years ago that are still accessible. Photobucket and Imageshack were terrible about deleting images after a while of not being viewed.

I think what Mr. Nutella was actually saying is: "Windows has always stood for sovereignty for creators and agency for consumers, and with Windows 11 we have a renewed sense of Windows' role in the world as supreme dictator." But yeah... I "felt it" LOL. Kind of like this...

Now yeah, that would be possible. Hadn't thought of that. It wasn't that long ago that it might have gotten wet even if it was not evident at the time. That was a lot of condensation on the water block a few weeks ago.

So, now we will need Adguard to protect us from Windows itself? LoL... apparently telemetry and identity theft wasn't enough to keep them fat and sassy.

Given that the outer metal housing around the end of the connector is what looks to have been shorted, it almost looks like it was putting power to ground.

But, it is still not clear how or why the ethernet port itself would be carrying enough current to cause what happened. Very strange.

That is just too weird for words. Scary though... could have been disastrous. So glad nothing bad came of it.

What is weird, if I interpreted @tps3443post correctly, he simply connected one end of the CAT cable to his PC and the other end to his wife's PC, no PoE involved unless he forgot to mention that. How that would happen is a mystery to me. Make no sense at all. I don't know where or how that much current would be generated with a direct network cable connection between two computers.

LOL, no... typo. Thanks for identifying it. I will fix it. That's backwards. E would be "extreme" and P for "puny" for that to be accurate. This is basically the same SP rating that Brother @Papusan12900K had. I think there was a point or two different on the E-cores, but do not remember exactly.

Wow, that is nuts. NO IDEA. So happy you didn't lose your PC or golden 13900K in the process. Thank the Lord for that. I ordered an open box Strix Z690-E so I can move to DDR5 on Banshee and get rid of the white (the replacement is all black - my preference). This might be the last glam shot, LOL. I am probably going to offer the nicely binned, delidded and lapped 12900K SP92 (104P-70E), Strix Z690-A, DDR4-4000 kit and Velocity2 (or silver Optimus - buyer's choice) waterblock in the marketplace in the next week or two. If anyone wants info or is interested before I list it in the marketplace thread, let me know. I also have a spare XSPC pump/res and a couple of 240MM radiators I can include.

50% of the time. What varies is whether they are the plaintiff or defendant. For every winner there is a loser. In some venues the bad guys usually win, while in other venues the opposite is true. In either case, the outcome is a direct reflection of the heart and mindset of the people that live there.

OK, here is an update. I remember Igor's Lab testing a "sausage" with a more viscous paste versus spreading a creamier paste like MX-4 or KPX and he found better results using a really thick thermal compound down the middle of a GPU core in a straight line. So, just for shiggles, I thought why not. Instead of using KPX or MX-4 (both of which I tested already after finding before and after temps the same) and Phobya Nanogrease Extreme, I grabbed a free tube of the TF7 from the CPU contact frame kit. I put a straight line down the middle, and I also followed what Igor suggested with the GPU and did not go in a criss-cross pattern. I snugged down all four nuts until they made contact with the block while pressing down in the middle. Then I tightened two on one side first, then two on the other side. I also noticed that I had forgotten to disable V-Core Guardband in the BIOS. So, I did that, too. While my V-Core setting remains the same, disabling Intel Guardband prevents the VID from increasing and keeps VID and V-Core at or near the same value. Don't know that it matters, and I think it actually doesn't matter because VID is not the real voltage going to the CPU. But, I like seeing the VID and V-Core values resembling one another rather than the CPU "thinking" it needs more voltage than it really does and fibbing about it with a bogus VID value. So, here we go... same stress test... ready... wait for it... ...see you tomorrow, fellas.

Yes it's good that they made an aftermarket clone (dimensionally) of the stock IHS so that other parts are compatible. I do not expect it will perform any better, but it will give us something good to use with liquid metal instead of ruining the markings on the stock IHS. Please be careful. Watch closely to make sure the IHS is not rotating during the delid. I'd hate to see you knock all of the SMDs off of the CPU in the process. If I hadn't stopped to check mine in the middle of the delid process it would have happened to me. I don't know why it rotates like that. I've never experienced that in the past during a delid.

If that is true it has been completely redesigned from what it was. I purchased one for 12th Gen and it is as wide as the CPU with cutouts for the "wings" and SMDs near the edge of the PCB. The one I purchase was way too big for the opening in the contact frame. So, it was either totally redesigned to match stock dimensions or the people saying that are full of baloney. Edit: it has been totally redesigned. That is good news. I got one of the first 12th Gen delid tool and copper IHS, so they probably figured out people wanted to use the contact frame instead of the stock ILM. I am ordering one so I can use liquid metal on top and preserve my stock IHS. https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/12th-gen-intel-processor/products/copper-ihs-kit-intel-12th-gen I already have liquid metal under the IHS. That is all I ever use. I am not going to ruin the identification markings on the IHS by putting it on top. (See comment above.) Yup, several times. Mount is perfect and temps are exactly the same every time. I even tried using the EKWB Velocity2 block and the temps were within 1°C of the Optimus Foundation block. Edit #2 - I also have one of these on order. Cuplex Kryons NEXT 1700. Should be interesting.

Yes, 100%. I believe he will have my 2080 Ti FTW3 beast GPU back in working order in a jiffy.

In this video Tony reballs a GPU core.

I have used liquid metal on raw copper for years without issue. That is the only option available on laptops. You're correct that once it gets saturated and no longer absorbing the liquid metal there's no meaningful difference between the two in terms of performance. However, a high quality nickel-plated surface is preferable for ease of maintenance. You don't get the hard clumps of liquid metal that have to be sanded off like you do on copper. On the plus side, liquid metal is more likely to stay exactly where you place it on raw copper, versus the slippery nickel surface. Given a choice between the two, I would choose the nickel.

I am not following you, but maybe I missed something along the way. What are you referring to here, brother John? Anybody tried this yet? https://store.steampowered.com/app/1472250/ROG_CITADEL_XV/ (it's free) This freebie ends tomorrow. https://store.steampowered.com/sale/vermintide2giveaway So, grab it before it's gone. I didn't want Vermintide enough to bother buying it, but it is fun to play now that it is free. Now I can see why my son that enjoys it so much likes playing it.

Yeah, but it changed and unless your CPU changed that should have remained constant. With the ASUS SP ratings, I haven't seen accuracy in the voltage predictions, and they also change. At best, it is a ballpark calculation. I have found the voltage required for stability was always higher or lower than the prediction. You know you have a good sample based on the results you are getting, so the ASUS SP rating or MSI Force number doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. These numbers are useful for identifying defective trash CPU samples than need to be RMA'd though. They do not identify whether or not your IMC is good or garbage. Having a screenshot showing the ASUS SP rating is also good for resale value because some peope place tremendous stock in that number.

That can happen with ASUS SP ratings sometimes as well. It's only a tool. While it is useful for some things, it is not a 100% reliable indicator of results. I wouldn't worry about that number changing too much. At the end of the day, results are what matter. Not a rating assigned based on a programmed algorithm... GIGO.

Does not work with the contact frame and I don't want to use the stock ILM. Copper is also inferior to nickel surfaces when using liquid metal. Yes, it's clean. I no longer use the Signature blocks because of the solid metal unibody housing. I prefer the clear plexi top on the Foundation so I can visually monitor the cleanliness of the cold plate.

I always use liquid metal under the IHS where the solder used to be. The only exception was with the Ryzen 5950X nightmare, which ran hotter after a delid because the chiplets were inconsistent height and there was no longer any solder plugging all the gaps and liquid metal doesn't work for that. Using thermal paste made the temps the same as stock solder (before delid). Using liquid metal on top will absolutely yield better results than thermal paste, but I don't want to destroy the markings on the stock IHS. Maybe I will buy a broken 13th Gen CPU on eBay (something very low end like i5) and use the IHS. I could lap it and use liquid metal and keep the stock IHS looking new. When I had to lap one of the 12900K IHS due to the damage caused by the delid process that made a huge difference. But, the IHS was already destroyed so I had nothing to lose.

FYI - stop the nonsense YouTube ads with this awesome Chrome extension... SponsorBlock. It is my Windows substitute for Vanced MicroG on Android. Never wait for a video to play or be interrupted during the video again by advertisements.