Mr. Fox

1 minute ago, johnksss said:

This was under 50/50 radiator fluid

I can't really tell from the image because it doesn't blow up to full zoom. Is there any damage you are showing?

Are you using 50/50 automotive antifreeze? That is what I am using in my loop.

53 minutes ago, Rage Set said:

Of course you get an SP92 out of the gate. Lol.

Brother @Papusan is such a lucky guy. Maybe we should have him buy our CPUs for us in Norway and ship them to us. The Viking gods smile down on him from Valhalla. 🙂

4 minutes ago, Reciever said:

Its all good 🙂 I appreciate you giving this platform a chance.

Certainly. My pleasure. It's not hard to want to hang out with people you have enjoyed being around for more than a decade... some have been friends for about 15 years.

Just now, Reciever said:

I plan to do exactly that, we just need to decouple Likes/Emoji's from the REP system (which is why the limitation is in place by default)

Let me touch base with @Hiewand make sure we are on the same page first.

Thanks. I can't give you a rep for the prompt reply for the reason I asked the question, LOL. 
But, it's the thought that counts. I would have if I could have. 👍

1 minute ago, serpro69 said:

And that's on LTSC...  Imagine number of services on 'Home' or 'Pro' edition.

Oh, yeah... it is way lots worse on Home and Pro version. Bloat City. Unacceptable.

Hey Brother @Reciever can we do away with this limitation? It is pretty annoying to not be able to give a reaction after using up a daily quota.

8 minutes ago, johnksss said:

Sooooooooo....Friday night Hydrocopper water block springs like 4 leaks and soaks my Asus Maximus Z690 Extreme board under a ton of liquid. Board cuts off and wont power back on. I chalk it up as a lost cause and do my clean up of board. After my cleaning the board, the board powered back on and seems to be working fine now. All I can say is WOW! Kingpin seems to be fine as well as I had to stock it back up to make sure it was in working order. time for RMA on this stupid block.

This is the second time you have had a Hydro Copper KPE block to RMA if memory serves me correctly. Didn't one of the 2080 Ti KPE Hydro Copper blocks spring a leak on you as well? Sorry to hear that this happened, Brother John. Glad it didn't destroy anything else in the process.

I took apart my own 3090 KPE Hydro Copper to clean the inside of it this weekend. It was a terrible pain in the butt; almost as horrible as the 2080 Ti FTW3 Hydro Copper was. It really feels like EVGA does this on purpose to keep people from taking them apart, which makes no sense at all. People need to be able to maintain the products they buy and taking apart a waterblock for cleaning is normal maintenance. When I needed to clean the 2080 Ti FTW3 Hydro Copper block a second time, I learned from EVGA that they did not sell replacement o-rings for Hydro Copper blocks, so I sold it and replaced it with an EKWB GPU block. Unfortunately, the Kingpin model has only two options available, both difficult to acquire because of limited availability and both overpriced.

Getting the o-ring back in place was a complete nightmare. The plexi has a shallow groove for it and it tries to pop out of the groove. The groove would be better in the metal block rather than in the plexi. The o-ring is also very thin, which is why the groove is so shallow. The first time I reassembled it and leak-tested it had a leak because the o-ring slipped a tiny bit. Everything turned out fine in the end, but it was far more hassle than it should have been. This makes me angry, and causes me to think it would be best to avoid buying enthusiast grade video cards in the future and stick with less expensive generic reference PCB GPUs with multiple waterblock options and just shunt mod and voltage mod them for better overclocking.
 
I canceled the order I had for the OptimusPC KPE block because I got tired of waiting after several months and no ETA being offered. I am considering ordering one again and waiting as long as it takes, but the leaking problem @fragility_V1 mentioned in EVGA forum about his OptimusPC KPE block is a bit concerning. Trying to decide now, because I don't want to have to take apart the Hydro Copper again. I am scared I will end up with nothing if the o-ring is damaged and EVGA won't sell me one.

One thing I noticed when taking apart the 3090 KPE Hydro Copper is that none of the screws on the front of it were tight. I wonder if yours leaked because the screws are loose or because of a crack? The o-ring is so thin and the groove that holds it in place so shallow that loose screws could allow it to move out of place under pressure.

12 hours ago, KING19 said:

I installed my old HDD from my old HP Envy on my Legion 5 after i bought it but after a year i upgraded it with a 1TB m.2 NVMe SSD, I also tried to upgrade the battery from the 60Wh version to the 80Wh version twice but it didnt work out and one of the batteries i was allowed to keep after getting full refunds, The battery works and charges normally but i cant boot up my laptop on battery without plugging in the AC Adapter. I might buy another one soon but this time with a 3rd party battery instead testing my luck with Lenovo Genuine batteries

Have you checked to see if there is any kind of BIOS setting that can be disabled related to detecting a "non-genuine" AC adapter or battery.

9 hours ago, ssj92 said:

I use startisback on 10 and startallback on 11. No other way I'd use either OS. I'd love to dual boot 7 on some of these computers but most of them have ax200/ax210 wi-fi cards so I'd have to wi-fi.

For $20 or less, a USB micro-dongle would fix that for you in a jiffy. If you can disable the WiFi 6 hardware in the BIOS it will also free up some system resources that the inconspicuous USB solution doesn't require.

On 1/31/2022 at 2:34 PM, John Ratsey said:

I let Windows 11 install itself a few days ago to see what it looked like, discovered that I couldn't dock the task bar on the left side of the screen (which I've been doing for years to maximise the veritcal space), tried registry hacks found by Google but they didn't work and then restored Windows 10. If Microsoft fix the task bar problem then I might try it again but this may mean waiting for Windows 12. History shows that Microsoft have a habit of making a mess of alternate versions of Windows.

If you haven't rolled back already, using StartIsBack for Windows 11 will fix a few of the unforgivable aesthetic atrocities associated with the taskbar, Start Menu and context menu. Rolling back to Windows 10 is probably the better solution though. I use StartIsBack for Windows 10 as well, because I don't like the Windows 10 Start Menu.

45 minutes ago, Aaron44126 said:

I'm not bashing for sport.  I wanted to like it. 

Same here. I was quick to adopt it, and gave it plenty of time to show me it was the right choice. It wasn't, so I kicked it to the curb. I view it as trash, but it certainly wasn't for a lack of hope that it would not be.

If they did a video on what doesn't suck about Windows 11 it would be shorter than a YouTube commercial, LOL. For Windows 10 it would be maybe 10 seconds longer. They both suck, but Window 11 sucks more. 

Aesthetic atrocities aside, the people that like it are only looking on the surface. The payload of utter trash and worthless bloat these digital abortions carry is nothing short of phenomenal. Roughly half of the 120+ services running in the background by default are unnecessary. May of them are present to support the Redmond Retards' stupid sheeple gimmicks, data collection, spying and control freak fetishes.

Debloating newer versions of Winduhz 10/11 helps to minimize the feces, but still isn't enough because the trash is too deeply embedded.

Both of these are debloated and optimized, but look at the payload of filth that remains on the newer trash OS.

9 hours ago, Papusan said:

Thanks Fox. I have lokked at Asus driver download page. I'm now on Win 10 LTSC 2021 for testing. Will install 2019 LTSC when I get the ssd's I need. 

What drivers do you use? INF drivers and clean and no bloat IMEI from Win-Raid? And what of them are needed from the Asus download page? I know you have EVGA but I expect it will be the same for me and Asus. 

As well what is the latest stable firmware for Asus Z690 boards (Apex). I think about latest bios before Intel's screw up and forced the OEM to removed AVX512 support. I mean MSI have relesed a new Beta bios who still have AVX512 support. Not sure if Asus will do the same. Current bios version is the release Version 0231

@electrosoft @Talon @johnksss 

 

I say yes thanks for all valuable info. Again, Thanks 🙂

I have the Strix on Banshee and I have owned more Asus than EVGA. I probably will going forward as well.

Find the setting in your bios to disable Intel Management Engine. Also find the BIOS setting to disable the download of Armory Crate. I also disable the second NIC, WiFi and BT in BIOS, as having them installed wastes CPU clock cycles. I use the drivers that come with the mobo and generally never update them. Choose one of your BIOS chips for testing firmware versions and leave the other position alone using the firmware that shipped from the factory with your motherboard. Firmware updates are generally unimportant and of no value, but with DDR5 being new you may need them. With dual or triple BIOS you don't have to worry about firmware screwing up your system. Although you should be leery and try to avoid IME firmware update filth. Better to just disable it in BIOS PCH options if you can. It provides absolutely nothing of value in terms of functionality and having it disabled seems to give a minor improvement in performance.

If the menu to disable Intel ME is hidden in the stock ASUS BIOS a mod may be needed to expose it because ASUS is not trustworthy when it comes to kissing Micro$lop's butt. Intel ME does not serve any useful purpose for us.

43 minutes ago, Papusan said:

Btw. What key to enter USB with Win iso on Asus board?

Spamming F8 during POST before the handoff from BIOS to OS should bring up the boot options menu to select the bootable USB.

5 minutes ago, Papusan said:

I think its okeyish.

Looks good. I am looking forward to your overclocking results. The AIO pump/block looks like a very tight fit near the VRM heat sink.

I did and got it all tweaked so that it very closely resembled Windows 10, but I was very displeased with it for numerous reasons and went back to only using Windows 7, Windows 10 LTSC and Linux. I have no plans to give it another chance.

I get idiot trash like this in an email and I can see why Windows 10 and 11 both suck. This kind of stupid crap is what they think is important and valuable, LOL!!!! Give me a break.

Cooling mods are always a must, because they're never as good as they can/should be the way they ship from the manufacturer. Most are pretty horrible stock, unless you think the CPU hitting 90-100°C is acceptable.

27 minutes ago, Normimb said:

Your GPU clock frequency increased at the end of the test. Could this mean there's still room for improvment?

Amazing score. What a beautiful system you got. Is it the same 10900K  you had with your clevo?

Thank you. I do like it a lot. I appreciate the compliment.

I have never owned a Clevo with a 10900K. I had an X170 developer unit that I did some modding POC work for zTecpc, but that belonged to them. My only laptop is a seldom-used Tongfang turdbook and I do not plan to ever purchase another laptop again in the future.

I recently obtained this 10900K from a fellow in France that said it was a golden sample. It doesn't have a crazy high Asus SP rating, but it is the best binned sample I have owned in terms of overclocking. It is not delidded and runs 5.5GHz with reasonable voltage and good temps, so can't hate that.

As far as the GPU clock... Unfortunately, everything with Turing and Ampere gets spoiled to some degree by low temperature thermal throttling, even with a K|NGP|N video card. It probably got colder near the end of the benchmark if the memory load decreased, which would make the core clocks automatically increase by a bin or two.

I don't watch lots of TV, maybe 1 or 2 hours in the evening and a couple of hours on Newsmax on weekends. At other times I tend to binge watch. My wife and I enjoy action series and good sci-fi shows. We only do streaming on Roku, no cable or OTA. While the list could be much, much longer. Off the top of my head some of our favorites that come to mind have been:

• Yellowstone
• 1883
• Longmire
• Into the Badlands
• Virgin River
• The Sinner
• Hannah
• Blacklist
• Jack Ryan
• The Americans
• Grimm
• Gotham
• Justified
• Wu Assassins
• Lost in Space (remake)
• The Mandalorian
• Supernatural
• The Originals
• Legacies
• Vampire Diaries
• Van Helsing
• Wynonna Earp
• Sabrina
• Netflix Marvel Series (Jessica Jones, Iron Fist, Arrow, The Flash, Daredevil, Punisher, etc.)
• Travelers
• Ragnarok
• Sweet Tooth
• Another Life

Looking forward to starting this one in the near future...

Wraith: one 2TB HDD for data with a 4TB USB HDD enclosure on USB 3.0 for backups. For everything else, two 512GB NVMe and four 1TB 2.5-inch SSD.

Banshee: one 2TB HDD for data, two 512GB NVMe, one 1TB NVMe, three 1TB 2.5-inch SSD.

Wheezer: none - no place for it because it is a modern turdbook. One 1TB NVMe and one 2TB NVMe with no place for a HDD unless I go with the Tongfang small battery option.

 Just need a few more points to break 16K... https://hwbot.org/submission/4921897...90_15967_marks | https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/71699843

 https://hwbot.org/submission/4921873_

There are three. One started by a person I had never heard of before, one by @Reciever and one by @spartan@hidevolution.

I have always used the auxillary PCIe power port on the Asus and EVGA motherboards that have them, but I have never experienced instability from not using it. I wonder what they did differently on this one? Seems they must have done something different because the systems that do not have it work correctly. That is interesting and it would be good to know the reason behind it.

Does the manual say what the PD means in "PD_12V_PWR" means? Is there also a molex or 6- or 8-pin PCIe auxillary power port in addition to that one?

18 minutes ago, Talon said:

If you read the Asus manual quickly you may think this is only necessary to hook up when trying to utilize numerous PCIE cards. Nope read further and it says that unless you connect a GPU PCIE cable to this you will have issues with a stable 12v rail. After I connected this cable, 12v is rock stable and no more crashing randomly. What a ridiculous design that I've never seen before. 

Well yeah that is ridiculous. Thanks for posting that. Is this unique to Asus z690  motherboards or something that is new to all the z690 systems?

On 2/3/2022 at 1:47 PM, Papusan said:

As it is now I think I'll have to put the rad on top and push the air out as exhaust (in push pull). With 8 strong fans in the front I mean this is the best solution. What you think about that? The intake on top is probably a bottleneck if i would take the air from there int the radiator. @Mr. Fox 

23 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

I would definitely do the radiator in top with push/pull. It might be better to pull cold air into the top and creating positive internal pressure with more intake than exhaust but you will need to test both ways to see if there is any change. I suspect the difference will be minor, if any. Pushing air out of the top might be better for dust prevention, unless the internal air pressure is low. Higher internal pressure generally is better to minimize dust collection. If it is all filtered that may not matter unless the top or bottom filter is more challenging to remove clean than the other.

Having the radiator in the top with fans in push/pull is probably better for efficiency of the AIO pump, as the pump would be the lowest point in the AIO liquid loop; not to mention that the cold air getting sucked in from the top would be in closer proximity to the RAM and VRM heat sinks. The cooling of those components might be enhanced for that reason, but you would have to test it to see if it makes a difference in the VRM and RAM temperatures.