Mr. Fox

1 hour ago, Talon said:

 

 

Doing more research, that part number that I purchased may still be OK. I think it is the same IC as what most of us have for SK Hynix modules from G.SKILL, TeamGroup and others already that can run 6800+ stable. Hopefully, they will be a good bin quality so I don't have to resell them.

Looks like we should soon see a DDR5 version of Thaiphoon Burner. I communicated with Vitaliy back in July when I had my memory screwed up by the Unify-X mobo and provided him some memory dump info that may have been helpful.

https://www.softnology.biz/news.html

August 23, 2022 / Thaiphoon Burner 17.0.0.0 build 0823 beta 2

A miracle happened! A few weeks ago, the pathetic JEDEC scoundrels nevertheless published the final version 1.0 of the “JESD400-5 DDR5 Serial Presence Detect (SPD) Contents” document on their website, declassifying it. Therefore, all sorts of intellectually gifted “robing hoods” and fanatical fans of the Thaiphoon Burner, constantly swarming in it like larvae, in order to break, find out something, attach it to their programs or distribute it to the beggars and vagabonds, run at the speed of a marathon runner to the JEDEC website to download the document if you haven't already. It is surprising that only immigrants from Ukraine, Belarus and the Russian Federation still suffer from such pampering. Well, for the further development of Thaiphoon Burner, the release of the final documentation, expected throughout the year, is incredibly crucial. In accordance with it, the program code has already been adjusted. For example, the table of frequencies and timings in the summary report is displayed as accurately as possible. But there is other good news! The algorithm for reading 1024 bytes of SPD from the SPD Hub of DDR5 SDRAM modules has been successfully tested! Therefore, its implementation in the program should not take much time. In the meantime, you can admire two new screenshots.

Screenshot of Thaiphoon Burner UDIMM DDR5 SDRAM module

Screenshot of Thaiphoon Burner SO-DIMM DDR5 SDRAM module

For Brother @Talon or anyone that wants it. You can use Sensor Panel Manager to change the image to something else, edit your GPU and memory branding, etc.

Z690 Dark KPE SensorPanel.zip

Here is something useful I just picked up. Command prompt... copy and paste all on the same line.

wmic MemoryChip get MemoryType, Capacity, Speed, Configuredclockspeed, DeviceLocator, FormFactor, Manufacturer, Serialnumber, Partnumber

8 minutes ago, Talon said:

 

I don't think those are "A-Die" SK Hynix. 

 

A die have an "A" in the middle of the part # instead of the M. They're also 5600MTs 1.1v instead of 4800MTs 1.1v 

Dang it! I thought I had matched the part number exactly. I must have purchased from the wrong listing by accident. I had identified a listing with the identical part number, so I may have to turn around and resell them if they suck at overclocking.

Here is what Splave is selling (or sold) on HWBOT. He has run them as high at 7600 MT/s.

https://community.hwbot.org/topic/219454-fs-binned-ddr5-a-die-hynix/

Quote

• I have 7 kits, binned from 100 sticks. The ones that made the cut are all about the same in terms of OC (a couple dimms out 100 were awful). There are two types of PMIC, crackable and non. These sticks are all crackable, and will work without limits as long as your motherboard bios supports it. (ASRock and Asus for sure and I also believe MSI currently, gigabyte not sure I assume all XOC boards will be at some point.) You need to check your real voltage as some motherboards 1.55 will = 1.53 or 1.52 etc and apply more or less. 

 

These sticks will do at minumum 3800 32-44-44 1.55 aida 

19 minutes ago, Talon said:

 

Hit me with that link brother. I also grabbed some EK Monarchs to cool them. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANJRKPQ?psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

I bought the last two from the seller I selected on eBay. Just be sure you buy sticks with the exact part number and not those labeled as "compatible" (I saw a couple like that on eBay... very iffy.)

Here is what I have set in the BIOS...

And, here is what HWiNFO64 shows for everything. SA VID (upper left) matches what I have set in the BIOS.

The Monarch RAM jackets look nice. I have Byski jackets that cost about half what the EK Monarchs cost. If you soak the memory modules in paint thinner for about 30 minutes the stock heat sinks will come off with minimal effort and no damage. Be sure to protect the part number label. I stood mine on end and only submerged the sticks in thinner deep enough to not submerge the label.

You will definitely want to put a fan blowing on the modules. In the screen shot I posted above, those memory temps are with a fan blowing on the stock TeamGroup Delta RGB modules. Without a fan blowing on them, the temps hit ~65°C and throw errors in memory tests. With the fans blowing on them they pass memory tests at the temperatures shown.

19 minutes ago, Talon said:

 

Thanks! I discovered the Extreme Voltage mode to unlock the PMIC limit. Works a treat on my G.Skill Z5 6400 CL32 kit, still have to test my Renegades that have a different PMIC brand. Hoping the Renegades OC further, I am guessing they will because they actually cool the PMIC with a thermal pad unlock the idiots at G.Skill. 

 

Do you know what the VSA and VCCIO voltages are in HWInfo? I am seeing them at 1.8v and hoping that isn't system agent voltage. 

 

Currently testing 6800 CL32 at 1.47v on my G.Skill kit. 😃 7000 CL32 boots, but errors almost immediately into a test. Good enough for a latency test but not much else. Of course that was at 1.435v which clearly isn't going to cut it. I am in line for an "A Die" kit from Splave over at HWbot. He ran out this week but let me reserve some that he is getting in next week. They should pair nicely with this board. He is claiming minimum 7600 CL32 1.55v which is crazy and exciting for DDR5 overclocking. 

 

https://community.hwbot.org/topic/219454-fs-binned-ddr5-a-die-hynix/  The sale thread if anyone is interested. 

I just ordered two brand new 16GB sticks of the nake green PCB Hynix (same part #) like Splave is selling on HWBOT for $80 each. I hope they overclock as nicely. They'll be perfect for my water cooling setup. Then I can either sell the RGB stuff or store them for spare parts. 

19 minutes ago, Talon said:

Do you know what the VSA and VCCIO voltages are in HWInfo? I am seeing them at 1.8v and hoping that isn't system agent voltage. 

Just a moment and I will check for you. I have many of those set to manual/override in the BIOS and did the same on the Unify-X. Auto is generally too high and the negative offset thing just doesn't make good sense to me when override is foolproof.

50 minutes ago, Talon said:

 

Thanks, just got it mostly setup. I updated the BIOS to the latest that supports PMIC unlock for Renasis PMIC type. Out of box BIOS was kinda meh. I am so used to Asus, is there really no fan curve option in the BIOS? The constant percentage or SMART thing has to be a joke. 

 

Latest BIOS seems to have cache broken and locked at 3.6Ghz which is weird, thankfully I can bypass this with ELEET software. 

 

Latest BIOS also trying to kill my 12900KS LOL. The voltage it puts through the chip is ridiculous and completely unnecessary. Even my Asus board didn't even get close to the pull this thing was trying. I am currently at -180mV and -25 vdroop to get back to normal CPU package and temps for same perf. On Asus I used LLC4 and -70mV. Different, but it's just stupid to put that much voltage through the chip at stock settings, no wonder reviewers complain about temps, power, etc. The board variances are crazy. 

 

Memory OC looks promising though! Excited to do some testing now. 

A Dark mobo and EVGA BIOS can take some getting used to and some people never learn to love it. Initial impressions are always that you are getting less, when the reality is you're getting more and not being presented with a bunch of distracting garbage in the BIOS. When I stopped wanting to be an ASUS customer it was very difficult at first. But, I quickly learned to appreciate the fact that it was made to do things the way I want to do them and it turns out to be a better fit for me than an ASUS product or ASUS firmware. I now find using ASUS firmware to be very annoying and cumbersome, and the plethora of settings that I have to fart with are no longer impressive to me. I find it annoying to have to max out power, current and amp limits and turbo time values manually in an ASUS environment. I love the fact that EVGA hard codes it maxed out in the BIOS by default and then hides the menus so they do not clutter things up. The entire premise upon which it is built is balls-to-the-wall overclocking. There is no real thought about people that are gamers and the casual style that is often associated with that. They only recently added RGB/ARGB headers and WiFi and I wish they never had added them. Especially the WiFi is just a waste of system resources and PCIe lanes. I could always insert a USB dongle for WiFi if I ever needed to. I generally disable that in the BIOS.

I am on the latest BIOS and it is working good for me. Disable the Guardband option and set -75% on vDroop and those two things should fix the high voltage. To unlock the PMIC past 1.435V enable "extreme voltage" and ignore the warning about high voltage. Does this does not increase voltage, it merely allows you to increase it and I always enable the extreme voltage option. This is basically the same as disabling voltage monitoring on ASUS to uncork CPU voltage past 1.500V, but it is just one toggle switch with EVGA to unlock all voltage limiters at once, rather than individually. I also use static voltage for everything I own. If you know what your load voltage was using adaptive with an offset, try setting that as the static voltage target. Also, the "CPU Voltage" in EVGA vernacular is SVID, not Core Voltage. If the user does not know that it is very alarming to think that much voltage is going to the CPU. It's not. It is what the CPU thinks it should ask for, which is always way too much. Many ASUS users disable SVID support in the BIOS so they do not see those scary but meaningless values.

After using it for a while, I decided I liked MSI firmware better than ASUS as well. It was likewise difficult to get used to. It seemed lacking in some ways and yet it carried some of the same faults as ASUS firmware that I appreciated not having to put up with on an EVGA board. Gigabutt UEFI was also different than the rest, and it was one that I could never warm up to. 

It should be "against the law" for OEMs to use different terminology when it comes to BIOS. They should not be allowed to use an opposite approach to things like LLC (e.g. more is more on ASUS, less is less on MSI).

46 minutes ago, Ashtrix said:

Thank you very much brother Fox. I will try a few tricks and will let you know.... About the weird HDMI behavior on this board, the moment I turn on CSM the HDMI won't work through IGPU nor the PEG. Something is blocking it.

Yes, it's really strange. I didn't have any advice to offer because I've never seen what you're experiencing with HDMI before. I seldom use HDMI on computers anymore. I use almost exclusively DisplayPort. However, I do use HDMI whenever I use my screen capture device for BIOS videos and I haven't run into any issues there.

Is your bios set on "Auto" for the setting relating to primary graphics adapter? I usually leave that set to auto (BIOS default) and haven't had any strange things happening using that approach. If that is already set to auto and Adjustable Bar Support is enabled try disabling that because it is not compatible with CSM.

The EVGA Z590 Dark is the only product from EVGA I have owned that I did not love. It left a lot to be desired and I think they didn't get too excited about supporting it because 11th Gen Intel was viewed by so many customers as being a joke. It wasn't as much of a disappointment as X570/Ryzen 9, but any number multiplied by zero is zero, LOL. Anyhoo, I didn't stick with that product long enough to have any observations about firmware updates. The issues Z590 had with ACPI and the malfunctioning M.2 PCIe slots because of that ruined everything. But, I can tell you that EVGA has done a truly amazing job of providing updates on all of their other motherboards and graphics cards that I have owned. They provided more updates than I was willing to apply, since my approach is to not fix anything that isn't broken. The only ones that ever catch my attention are the ones that boast some kind of performance enhancement. Sometimes it's not accurate, but if the firmware update is for "security" and there's no mention of anything else, then that is a hard pass for me. Flashing it just because you can and because something new is floating around out there called an "update" is a truly fantastic way to end up with something disappointing.

6 hours ago, Ashtrix said:

@Mr. Foxwas able to successfully get Windows 7 on Z690 Unify. Can I please know how did you get it running ? Did you use a PCIe card to PS/2 or PCIe card to USB2.0 or did the Mobo directly allow you to install ? I'm using Logitech combo controller for KB and Mouse no dice. Thank you. Also I remember you always prefer using ODD and then updating from there, please suggest any tip.

Windows 7 installation was nearly impossible (I actually gave up) on Z590 until I used a PCIe PS/2 mouse and keyboard and SATA DVD drive and then it became painless. Trying to do it from USB was nothing but frustrating and always ended in disaster. I was able to install drivers for USB and everything else except iGPU and WiFi 6 from the Windows desktop.

If you want to try restoring a Macrium Reflect image to your OS drive and then reactivate it with your own product key, let me know. It will be a huge upload/download, but it might take the frustration out of it for you.

6 hours ago, Talon said:

Decided to go Z690 Dark. I hope the 2x dimm board lets me push DDR5 a bit further than my 4x Hero. I wanted an Apex, but this gen Apex seemingly was a fail and it's not been sold outside of scalper prices since near launch. I doubt Z790 is going to bring much and the sale was a good deal for a high end board. I should have some "A-Die" in a couple weeks so I can really get some high clocking DDR5. 

 

Awesome. Congrats.  I really do like mine. I don't think ASUS has anything worth buying any more. Their stuff is buggy, unreliable, prone to failure and the RMA process unnecessarily challenging. There's essentially no value in their products unless you want to know a CPU SP rating.
 

1 hour ago, jaybee83 said:

will that be a recurring thing, Mr.Fox the hardware reviewer? 😁👌🏼

Yes, I believe so. The frequency is TBD, but I have another component coming soon that should be fun. Stay tuned.

1 hour ago, jaybee83 said:

had a look at the article, nice write up. from what ive seen so far its not big surprise that +200/+400 MT/s is about the max OCability of most DDR5 modules, right? at least for everyday operation without subambient cooling. also how funny that samsung ICs used to be all the rage for DDR4 and are now actually a con with D5 😄

Thank you. Feel free to comment down at the bottom if you feel so inclined. Even though they are limited to 1.435V and 6400 MT/s (due to the crippled PMIC) those Vengeance modules perform very well and for most gamers and casual overclockers that generate moisture in their nether-regions when they are exposed to RGB they are an excellent option that is priced right.

Samsung B-die was the IC to have for DDR4. Other Samsung IC versions were not very good.

Nicely binned SK Hynix ICs can handle 800+ MT/s overclocks. If you consider that 4800 is JEDEC default, even the comparatively crummy Samsung and Micron, and inferior bin quality SK Hynix ICs overclock a lot. Splave has cherry picked SK Hynix OEMs sticks for sale on HWBOT Marketplace that are ugly naked green PCB generic OEM modules that go way past 7000 MT/s if you want to spend $450 USD on modules that sells for under $200 for a pair of 16GB sticks. Below is an example of what you want to get if you're going the generic route.

13 minutes ago, Ashtrix said:

Need a word of advice from the experts here. Thanks in advance.

 

On a Z590 board with 4 DIMMs, will this work.. I'm almost ready to install it now as I type.

F4-4000C16D-32GTRSA - 2x16GB kit I have 2 kits, it's B-Die Samsung16-16-16-36 1.4V XMP.

 

DIMM A1, A2 - Channel 1
DIMM B1, B2 - Channel 2

 

MSI mentions I need to install 1st stick in A2 and 2nd stick in B2 to get full Dual Channel with XMP.

 

My idea is to put both kits populating all 4 DIMM slots, is it possible for the 10900K IMC to handle that much of high speed, high capacity, low latency, Dual Rank DRAM at XMP with B-Die kit at 1.4V ? If Yes .. how should I populate the 2 Kits say Kit X 1st stick goes into A2, 2nd stick goes into A2 and Kit Y 1st stick goes into B1, 2nd stick goes into B2 is this fine OR it should be X Kit 1st goes into A2, 2nd goes into B2, Y Kit 1st goes into A1, 2nd goes into B1.

 

If no, then I will just put one stick in A2 and other stick in B2 with same Kit X.

 

Please advice. Thanks again.

 

 

Yes it is absolutely possible if the CPU has a strong IMC. 4000C16 is probably getting close to the limit with 4 modules though, or on a 4-DIMM mobo.

Looks nice, Brother @johnksss. What caused you to decide to build that using the Unify-X mobo?

Hey guys, check out my first review on ExtremeHW and comment when you have time. I am expecting another one soon, so I will post the link here after I receive the product and complete the review.

CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB DDR5-6000 32GB Memory Review | ExtremeHW.net

9 minutes ago, Reciever said:

I guess case makers dont like the side window fans anymore.

 

One of the first mods I did was add 2x 120mm fan placements to my Antec 902, its also where I learned that more air in doesnt mean cooler temps. Reversed the fans and watched my temps drop quite a bit for the 4890 XFire I had at the time.

I think it just lost popularity. I had a couple of cases with side door mounted fans and it had pros and cons. Most of the side panels now are tempered glass and back in the day of the side window-mounted fans the window panels were acrylic or plexiglass. They looked good for a couple of days, or until the first time you cleaned the dust off of them and they were scratched for life. If never mattered how gentle I was, they always ended up scratched and dull. Plexiglass polish sometimes helped, but could also make it clouded or hazy looking.

20 hours ago, Papusan said:

You can buy stands for the radiator and put it on top of your case. Or just buy an Mora as bro Fox talk about.

 

But you pay premium (sub 500$) for a system like this below. And I don't think you get the performance you hope for... https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/external-cooling-system/exos-2-5-ex2-1055-cooling-system-aluminum-no-nozzles-ex2-1055.html

 

Edit. Maybe some of you remember this one? Zalmam Reserator… 20 years old (nor used) and on sale on the Norwegian used market https://www.finn.no/bap/forsale/ad.html?finnkode=261502425&alertType=ss&finnMail=agent&stored-id=57532357

 

Guru3d had a review of it. Enjoy older times folks. LianLi with the Reserator 1

https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/zalman-reserator-1-plus,1.html

There shouldn't be a big difference. I mean Linus Tech have tested with push and pull and all weird combos + throw in a lot things/clothes in the case and the temps was still almost the same. 

 

The tubes is up. But I can't say I have the big trust in one of the two rotatable 90°compression fittings on the top radiator. One of them feels a lot more loose vs the other when I touch it. We'll see how it goes. I need to follow that one the first days. But 3,hours run on the pump and no leak so far. So God night. 9:04 AM here so I need to find the bed, HaHa

 

And no bling bling. All black 🙂

 

 

Looking good, Brother @Papusan.

Yes, I remember that Zallman Reserator. I used to really want one. They were always terribly overpriced. May as well go with an aquarium chiller instead and have a lot more flexibility. But, they it was a prety interesting product.

On the topic of massive cases, I sure do love how this one looks in addition to its hugeness. Awesome and gorgeous. But, the price is absurd. It is too bad they don't make one similar to the size and layout of my Level 20 XT, but with the aesthetic of the HAF 700 EVO. I still much prefer a horizontal motherboard installation over vertical. It just makes more sense to me, and it's much easier to service.

12 minutes ago, Reciever said:

 

So then, the heat dump does have some affect on the system? I assume it would be minimal but I know you guys sweat the details for benching (for reasons most implicitly understand, I think). 

The temperature inside of the case on my work computer (Banshee) gets considerably warmer. It pulls cooler room air into the front 360 radiator and the 240 radiator in the top exhausts warmed air inside of the case out of the top. To what extent it affects performance I am not certain, but things are kind of cramped with two radiators, two pumps and a reservoir inside of the case. It's not a small case, but it is not as big as I would like it to be.

50 minutes ago, Reciever said:

I was always of the opinion that I would want to water cool in a separate case to then bring the tubing into the primary case where the system is housed to keep the heat dump from the systems themselves. Though testing a scenario is way outside of my pocket books ability to facilitate lol

 

Its been maybe 10 years since I had last watercooled anything 😐

That is how my benching rig has been set up for several years. I use an external MO-RA 360 radiator. There are no radiators inside of the chassis on that system. The liquid stays cooler that way and I do not have to worry about internal case space restrictions.

8 hours ago, Azther said:

this looks rather interesting, might have to try it out myself. I usually arrange my icons around the outer edge to try and make it at least look somewhat even but this is certainly a cleaner solution. Did you make the exe yourself or is it some other program available online?

No, I did not make it and I don't remember now who the creator is. I have been using it on all of my computers for maybe 10 or 12 years.

26 minutes ago, Ishatix said:

I've temporarily hidden my desktop items since they're overdue a tidy up!

I don't like desktop icons being visible. I use a desktop toolbar menu next to the System Tray (right-click, toolbars, check "Desktop") and hide the icons. Unzip the attached file and drop the executable anywhere you like. Put a shortcut on your Taskbar. Instant hide/unhide in one mouse click. HideDesktopIcons.zip

On...

Off...

@Ishatix you are spot on. Totally agree.

Also agree with your footnote on automation. I intentionally design things to be as easy as possible, and strive for single-click functionality. I get a chuckle out of people in my organization whining about change making their job more "difficult" and my response is usually something like, "Oh, you mean that extra mouse click that was introduced as a job performance requirement? Yeah, I know it's a tough job, but someone as smart as you will master than mouse click in no time. But, please let me know if you need any help with your mouse button."

3 hours ago, Ishatix said:

Looks great! KDE Plasma was the biggest surprise to me on looking into Linux again since last trying out a few distributions 9 years ago now . Back then KDE was so ugly I dismissed it as an option immediately (and Mint was the only OS where everything worked right away, and Cinnamon the only DE I liked). But now Plasma looks really beautiful and highly configurable too. How do you find it compared to Cinnamon?

Thank you. Aesthetically, I think KDE Plasma is excellent overall. It has a very polished look and feel to it, but I still find a few things lacking in terms of customization. I still lean slightly towards Cinnamon DE. Probably because I have used it longer and it is more familiar to me.

For example, I know how to manually tweak the code to adjust the menu color and transparency to match the panel I use on Cinnamon. It bugs the crap out of me when they do not match. (That irks me to no end in Windows as well. I consider it tacky-looking and half-assed when they do not match.) I had to spend a lot of time searching for the info. I have not done that for Plasma, and may not do so because it is easier to do what I already know how to do with Cinnamon.

I like Cinnamon's window manager themes and add-on GUI customization extensions better as well. 

Out of the box and no tweaking of code to suit my personal preferences, Plasma is definitely elegant and more aesthetically pleasing overall. But, to a fault, I am very picky, OCD and unforgiving about my aesthetic preferences, and do not embrace change or variety in that area of my computing experience.

Works perfectly. Thanks for sharing, bro.

It's interesting that a right-click copy and Ctrl+C (copy) did not seem to work for me after clicking on the control box in the upper left hand corner, but Ctrl+X (cut) works every time.

20 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

to break it down in more detail:

 

- write original message while quoting someone by clicking "quote" button under the message u want to quote

- submit reply

- go to second message u want to quote, click on "quote"

- in the new "second message window", click on the quote and ull see a small box on the upper left corner like here:

click on that box, do a Ctrl+X
- go back to your first message, click edit, do a Ctrl+V to insert the second quote and off you go.

 

its a bit annoying but it works!

See my edit above your reply. Thanks for the Ctrl+X suggestion. Not sure why Ctrl+C and right-click copy don't work for me. Interesting.

16 minutes ago, Vasudev said:

Hmmm. It seems I'm outdated on warranty info when using PBO and OC on AMD. Even AMD doesn't honor warranty.  I think maybe *ALL* OC'able CPU,GPU,RAM might not honor OC warranty.

I am not even sure that is a legal position. Apparently, it has not been challenged in court yet. They could legitimately deny damage caused by overclocking. Voiding a warranty for no reason other than the customer being honest when asked the question is an unethical business practice. Unless they have some kind of evidence or reasonable basis for concluding the damage was caused by overclocking, there is no legitimate basis to refuse to pay for a product that fails to function correctly during the warranty period. This would apply to delidding as well. No different than saying your warranty is null and void because you replaced thermal paste yourself, used nylon washers under the ILM to keep from bending the CPU, or undervolted to improve thermals. They basically are voiding a warranty and refusing to cover any failures if the customer chooses not to use BIOS defaults.

23 minutes ago, Vasudev said:

Well, next time we will need to re-consider who gets our money.

Unfortunately, it is a monkey see, monkey do thing. AMD has the same policy on overclocking. The Intel monkeys saw the AMD monkeys getting away with shirking their responsibility, so now they are doing it. Doesn't matter who gets your money, you're going to get screwed from either company. I purchased an Allstate/Square Trade policy for $50 with the new 12900KS that includes accidental damage. There is no verbiage in the policy that hints at excluding overclocking. Hopefully, there will be no reason for me to use it or to find out if they go out of their way to deny a legitimate warranty claim.

18 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

it is actually possible to add quotes! but only on desktop, not on mobile browsers...u have to manually cut n paste them. here, lemme show you (end of message part 1 without editing)

I will be curious how you do it. I seldom use mobile, but copy/paste on desktop doesn't seem to work for me when it comes to adding quotes when editing an existing post. I have tried many times and it doesn't seem to work. I'd love to know what you are doing differently.

Edits below:

7 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

 

to break it down in more detail:

 

- write original message while quoting someone by clicking "quote" button under the message u want to quote

- submit reply

- go to second message u want to quote, click on "quote"

- in the new "second message window", click on the quote and ull see a small box on the upper left corner like here:

click on that box, do a Ctrl+X
- go back to your first message, click edit, do a Ctrl+V to insert the second quote and off you go.

 

its a bit annoying but it works!

 

Interesting. I have tried that before and it did not work, but Ctrl+C (copy) does not work. However Ctrl+X (cut) does. Weird. Also, right click does not show the "Copy" command, only "Copy Image"

Also worth noting, I have to add the new test first and past above the text I add or I cannot add new text below the pasted quote. For some reason the bottom line of text of the pasted quote is like the end of the editable space.

On 8/31/2022 at 11:38 PM, ryan said:

@Recieverare you a ninja mod?lol just kidding but your emoji made me think that...pretty tight ship your running!! great job... I have the bad habit of triple posting also..I think its ok if the posts are unrelated.

 

Im thinking of a gaming desktop, can't decide between 2080ti and 3080ti. all I want to accomplish is 18k timespy and 4k/120 gaming on older titles. anyone here have a 2080ti? kinda dumb question as you guys are in the elite class of benchmarkers.

The hard part is when you see the post you want to reply to after you've already posted and nobody posts after you. You can edit, but not add a new quote. There's no way to quote the post you are going to reply to in a post that was already saved. For some reason the forum software has a limitation that makes it where you can't copy and paste the quote from a temporary new post. The same functional limitation makes it where you can't quote a post in a different thread. There are times when I find the question and answer more appropriate in a different thread.

If you're looking for a decent gaming experience you won't find a lot of difference one versus the other. Best to shop based on price. The 3070 probably does a slightly better job of ray tracing.

Both have been sold.

20 hours ago, Talon said:

@Mr. Fox How is the Dark Z690?

15 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

I don't have any benchmark results yet because I have been too busy with other things and the replacement 12900KS is supposed to be delivered today.

Well, it sucks that the first one failed, and even more so that I was honest to Intel and they're not taking care of business. So, this time around I bought an Allstate warranty that includes accidental damage since Intel and AMD are determined to not stand behind the products they sell.

The replacement 12900KS SP ratings are significantly better, so this might be the silver lining to the dark cloud.