Mr. Fox

Sorry to hear this. It does seem like a hardware/mobo issue. What I said a moment ago applies to your situation, too.

Yeah, I hope not, too. Although, it would not be the first time I had an almost new stick of RAM go bad. I have had a couple DOA before as well. I saw one of the reviews on NewEgg where another customer complained that one stick of the Vengeance DDR5 was no good. I am glad that the replacement RAM confirmed the Delta RAM got messed up by the BIOS flash. At least the kit worked long enough to verify that, LOL. The old cliché that they "just don't make things like the used to" is more true now than ever before. Some of the most reputable brands seem to not have any QC any more.

Well, one of the Corsair sticks died today. I initiated replacement with NewEgg. I was using my computer earlier today and it locked up. I had to hold down the power button to shut it off, and then it wouldn't boot again. Removed one stick and nothing. Same problem. Put that one back in and took the first one out I left in and it immediately booted and ran fine. Put the other stick in by itself and again no boot. The good stick boots fine in either slot and the one that died won't boot in either one. Put the TeamGroup sticks back in, booted fine. Set manual timings and back to using it until the exchange is complete.

I also opened a ticket with MSI and sent screenshots that I had shared here. I will update this thread with their position on the matter when they reply.

I will try reaching out to him. I have communicated with him via email a lot over the years and so has @Prema. He has seemed to vanish and I hope that no harm or misfortune has come to him. The last time I renewed my Thaiphoon Burner license it took a long time for him to respond. When he did reply he was apologetic and said it would be a week or more before he could update the license. He did update the license and when I thanked him and expressed my appreciation and concern for his well being he never responded. He has always been fast to respond and very friendly, thus my concern. Edit: I just emailed him. I will provide an update if he replies. From: Mr. Fox Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2022 10:30 AM To: Vitality Jungle Subject: RE: "Thaiphoon Burner PRO Corporative Edition", Mr. Fox [ORD] Hello my friend. I have not heard from you for a long time. I hope all is well for you and your family. Do you know of a way to reprogram DDR5 modules? Does Thaiphoon Burner work with DDR5? I have an MSI MEG Z690 Unify-X and flashing the motherboard firmware seems to have corrupted the SPD and erased the XMP profiles. Replacing the sticks proved the corruption occurred on the modules and not the motherboard.

I do not have a way to reflash the correct SPD on the Delta sticks. It seems Thaiphoon Burner does not work on DDR5 and the firmware does not have an option to enable SPD write. I do not know if that is an MSI BIOS thing or if Z690 and/or DDR5 are the reason for that. If I could, there is nothing wrong that I can see with the actual memory modules. They work fine with manual settings other than the 1.435V cap that the SPD corruption introduced. I wish I knew of a way to reprogram them. It was super easy using Thaiphoon Burner on DDR3 and DDR4.

Nice to see a beloved brother joining the Mr. Fox multi-boot club. It is good to be able to test and identify the OS that produces the best score in a specific benchmark, and exploit whatever OS gives you the advantage. Liking it is not necessary if all you are doing is exploiting it to run a benchmark, and neither is using it when you are done. Even better, I like having the authority of experience to validate my vitriol for filthy feces like Windows 10 and 11. I can base my deeply-rooted hatred on knowledge and experience, and that greatly enhances the power of vilification and damnation, and it castrates any argument that I am simply a troll that resists change. I am an enthusiast that seeks opportunities to bring severe and irreparable financial and reputational harm to peddlers of technology dung. If I could, I would crucify them.

A60 is stable, but I am not sure yet what benefit, if any, there is on memory because those were different modules. The ones that the BIOS flash corrupted are TeamGroup Delta 6200 sticks and the new ones are Corsair Vengeance 6400. I was able to finally get the Delta 6200 to boot and bench at 7000, but not without a lot of fuss and much higher voltage, and not error-free. These Vengeance modules seem a lot more stable and use less voltage. Just for shiggles I may flash A30 to the second BIOS and see if there is any identifiable difference. If these new sticks struggle with 7000 on A30 then we can maybe say A60 is better. If it behaves the same then it will remain a mystery what "compatibility" was enhanced. It may have been something they did to improve results for modules using Samsung or Micron ICs since those have been kind of crummy to deal with on DDR5. Only SK Hynix has/had been decent.

Mobettah.

Got them and everything is back to normal now. Super happy about that. The mystery now is how and why flashing the MSI A60 BIOS cause this. That makes no sense and it is totally messed up. I do not believe it is coincidence that it happened totally independent of the BIOS flash at EXACTLY at the same time.

Sweet! Fun weekend alert. 🙂 Waiting for delivery still. But, the map shows the truck in my general vicinity. Probably will have it in the next hour or so.

It helps a little bit, but not nearly as effective from pipe-to-pipe as direct contact with the cold plate and radiator. Anything extra you add will create mass and give an extra path for heat to travel even if it is not as effective as you would like it to be. It is important to have something on the cold end of the pipe to avoid heat saturation. But, even if you can't due to lack of space it will either help a little bit or take longer for the part you are trying to cool to overhead. This is really good news. I am glad that is happening. The reason people want to hang onto Windows 7 as long as they can is because it is a better product, more stable, more pleasant to use, and because purchasing a new product that is inferior isn't an attractive proposition. It is extremely disappointing that they are incapable of producing a new product that is better and desirable to anyone except for those addicted to variety and newness even when it is not better. It doesn't reflect well on Micro$lop. I sometimes go for a year or more without changing my desktop wallpaper because I place greater value on controlling my experience and knowing exactly what to expect than I do random newness and variety that serves no useful purpose other than a feeble attempt at entertaining myself. For me, the extended support is not super important. I haven't installed any updates released since 2015 except for the absolutely mandatory things like SHA and KMDF. I only install those because a few software titles and drivers won't work without them. Otherwise, I would not even install those. "Security" is not found on my list of priorities.

If you can avoid stacking heat pipes you will get better results. If you can take that one unpainted heat pipe on the left and attach it directly to the cold plate the cooling will be much more effective. It looks like there is enough space between the black heat pipe and the screw spring arms. I am not sure exactly what you mean about the air gaps between the heat pipes on the stock heat sink. If you are referring to the air gap between those soldered next to each other, that is not a problem. Air gaps would be a problem in places where solder needs to attach the heat pipe to the radiator, cold plate, or another heat pipe if you are stacking them. That is only because you can't stick two pieces of metal together with solder if they are not touching one another at the point of soldering. You could if you were brazing with a torch and filling the space with brass, but you can't get the heat pipes that hot without destroying them. And, heat pipes and radiators are difficult to heat for soldering. They are designed to eliminate heat, which is why using an oven to melt the solder paste is the best approach. You get everything heated to the same temperature with no place for the heat to go.

Everything relating to turdbooks is totally retarded now and most of the reviewers whose focus is laptops are schizophrenic imbeciles that can't locate their posterior using both hands. When the majority of the sheeple are psychotic and reprobate to the point they are head over heals in love with rubbish and don't having any awareness of their own ignorance, it leaves little or no basis for hope to the minority that have retained possession of mental faculties such as common sense and ordinary intelligence.

LOL... It is not a reliable benchmark as we all know. However it is influenced by everything in the system. If you look at the individual component areas you can see that the drives are the thing influencing the score. If I disable drive letters on all of my drives except for the boot and os drives it goes down to the 72nd percentile because I have some mechanical hard drives and I run Windows 11 on a little 256GB nVME attached to a 1x add-in card because it doesn't deserve to be a permanent part of my system. The CPU and GPU are off the charts crazy good when you look at the component-level scores. The slow drives pull the score down.

Hopefully the memory will be here tomorrow as the tracking update says it will be. Here's the benchmark some love to hate, LOL. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/53908389 And, an old one... 7980XE and 2080 Ti https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/27314580

You definitely need to remove the paint for soldering. Solder will not stick to paint properly. You can use a 200 or 400 grit sandpaper to remove the paint. You do not have to remove the old solder as long as there are no lumps or bumps that would interfere with the heat pipe making complete and solid contact with the mating surface. You can sand the old soldered surface so it is completely flat and smooth. You cannot use solder paste to fill up air gaps between parts if the surface is rough because it is flux with tiny suspended solder beads and the parts have to fit together securely with no air gaps between the mating surfaces in order for the solder paste to work. You should also use c-clamps to hold everything securely in place while melting the solder paste. It is best to use an oven to bake/melt the solder paste. Keep the temperature low (just above melting point) and you can leave it in the oven longer. If you overheat the pipes they will swell and ruin everything. Allow it to air cool to ambient temperature. If you cool it off immediately in cold water it could fracture the solder. I hope that make sense the way I described it. Edit: if you have access to a sand blaster (or other media blasting) that is faster and easier than sanding off the old paint. That is what I used when I was experimenting with custom heat sinks. It makes a nice surface for soldering and for repainting. Using sandpaper requires a lot of elbow grease. I think it might not be normal paint. On the heat sinks I was playing with it was very difficult and tough to remove by sanding paper. It may be powder coating rather than ordinary enamel paint.

I am not far from the NewEgg distribution center in SoCal. Straight shot for FedEx and UPS on I-10 and usually have my orders the next business day even on the FedEx or UPS Ground delivery. Looking at the history, it seems the delay might have been UPS not receiving the package from NewEgg for two days, although it did arrive at the Goodyear, AZ UPS distribution hub too late in the day this morning. I am guessing that is what the "late UPS trailer arrival" means. They are normally already on the road at the time the trailer arrived. Had it not taken so long for it to get from NewEgg to UPS it would/should have been here on Tuesday, or Wednesday.

You could likely build a more powerful desktop for the same if not less money and have something special rather than another cookie-cutter turdbook.

I guess the "late trailer" is the latest popular excuse for slow delivery service. It was originally Wednesday, then Thursday (today) and now Friday. Order was placed on Sunday. With rare exceptions, I always wait for the prices to drop to about $20. I never intentionally purchase any game that is only online multiplayer and always look into a game title to confirm it has an offline single-player campaign. If it doesn't, then I don't want it. It don't enjoy multiplayer and I don't want to have to rely on an internet connection to play by myself.

That is very true. I cannot remember the last time a new game was released that interested me. I have spent more than an hour searching several times since the end of last year and I already own what I am interested in, but Steam has literally nothing available that I find even remotely intriguing at this point. They have tons of stuff in genres I don't care about in the slightest and they are overrun with chintzy and unimpressive indie crap that should be freeware for people running dual core processors and integrated graphics.

The memory delivery got pushed out until tomorrow by UPS for unknown reasons. So hopefully I'll have an update to share by tomorrow evening.

@Talon your BIOS version shows A62U2 with a build date of 6/14/2022. The A60 I downloaded is A60 with a build date of 6/29/2022. @johnksss what does your BIOS show for the latest BIOS version and build date you flashed?

No, that is no longer present now. When I discovered the 1.435V cap I immediately went there to enable it and found it missing. The preview of the auto values in gray text is also missing. I presume because the SPD was damaged. Will know tomorrow for sure once the replacement memory arrives.

Yes, I always go into the BIOS and reset firmware defaults for everything before flashing after making sure I saved my old profile to USB in case I want to go back to the old firmware. I do not use that user-XMP thing either. I looked into it to see what is involved and it did not make any sense to me. With the ability to save complete BIOS profiles that cover everything, including things totally unrelated to overclocking, it seems more like a silly gimmick than a useful feature to me. I do set the memory XMP profile first and tune from that point, at least until I have it dialed in. Then I write down or screenshot everything and start over without using the memory XMP profile. I also start with the voltage higher than I expect and gradually go down until I get errors in testing or no boot, then go back up a bit. Not remarkably different the CPU or GPU overclocking other than all of the timings that take time to get dialed in. I got an update from UPS saying the Vengeance kit should be here for sure tomorrow, so we shall see if installing that solves the dilemma. These are what I ordered. I wanted to get them on Amazon, but delivery would have not happened until Sunday from Amazon for some reason, and the price was identical. CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6400 (PC5 51200) Intel XMP 3.0 Desktop Memory Model CMK32GX5M2X6400C38