tps3443

Thats awesome! The LTT Golden Sample 10900K’s could all do the 5.7Ghz I think too. Those were all SP115-SP130 range. Just insane chips. but pretty hard to find as they only made #200 I think.

5.6Ghz with a 10900K? That has to be an amazing chip.

DDR5 8800 wants that SA juice for most chips. This is with 1.360V SA below, I am messing around with 8800 as of now, just a quick test in TM5, never tried 8800 before. Good news is, even loose 8800c40 does perform decently though (Unless the IMC is under so much strain, it won’t perform very well) Testing with 1.500V vdd, and 1.500v vddq for the moment. I would see if you can manually enter your "DqVrefUP" and "DqVrefDOWN these slopes. Sometimes they do not work properly when training and going in to the 8800+ territory. I am not sure what your current motherboard sets them to that you are using. But it should be something like this below for frequencies on an APEX. 8000 DqVrefUP 170 / DqVrefDOWN 88. 8400 DqVrefUP 178 / DqVrefDOWN 96. 8800 DqVrefUP 186 / DqVrefDOWN 104. 9400 DqVrefUP 198 / DqVrefDOWN 116.

I bought a new Stihl 261 with 20” bar. Yep they are German made pro saws. I love it! Mounted a hour/tach meter to it as well. Cut a few trees so far and it works amazing.

I recently needed to make a decision for buying a yard tool, and this tool was something I needed now and would also use for years down the road. A “Chainsaw” lol. Very simple item. But most are consumer garbage and disposable just like a lot of the PC’s and laptops available today, you wouldn’t believe most chain saws have a plastic crank, and even plastic crank case housing (Don’t drop it). And just like in the tech PC world, in the chainsaw world their are chainsaw enthusiasts 😂 Yep, and they are overclocking and tweaking and building some crazy high performance chainsaws 😂 haha anyways, I wanted something that would last me, something you don’t toss in the bin when it breaks, something that can be fixed if required, so I started looking at Pro saws for clearing my lot now and in the future for years to come. Good chainsaws are pretty expensive. But I ended up settling on a model. And within most of these models they have added the usual “Updated fancy tech electronic features” to these chainsaws, This feature is called “Mtronic” this is like an ECU for a chainsaw. It controls fuel, spark, if it’s rich or lean etc. I couldn’t help but think why the heck do I need this on a chainsaw? Fortunately they sale both, and either option is the same price. Moral of the story, I seriously could not decide which one to buy, is newer better? I just thought which one you’d probably buy. And since they still sale the same one they designed without all of these electronics and epa regulations/ and emission restrictions attached, right beside the new fancy pants one, and for the same price, that’s the one I went with. A darn good ole chainsaw with a regular carburetor, no electronics on it, updates were disabled for 10 years on this one (Just like your Windows) 🤣 It’ll always work and it will always run! Newer is not always better. Another thing I am not a fan of is these newer Z790 Apex bios by the way. I’m running 9901 currently, this is the only bios available that has “XMP Tweaked” for the white Apex, and this is a nice bios. Now, time to go knock out some of those darn trees! 😎

The 5 year warranty is nice, but dang that’s a long time to keep a cpu I think 2 years is stretching it 🤣 I also use the 6.2Ghz boost, but I always aim for running the lower load voltages and lower max amperage and lowest power. I checked my Vmin yesterday after 560+ hours on my SP108 KS. I set a straight 5.9P/4.5E auto ring (default clocks), and my Vmin was 1.190V in Cinebench R23 load (CPU is not delidded) From my experience the degradation range is 1.300V+ load voltages. Not from using the 1.400-1.500V+ idle VID’s with low amperage on 6.2Ghz (2) core loads. I think the biggest problem with a 14900KS is if I reset my bios and run an average chip its load R23 default voltage is beyond 1.320-1.350v + which is red zone for long term or short term, sub 1.300+ is enough to feed 6.1Ghz all core with good cooling, so with these 14900KS fighting for 5.9Ghz sustained on AIO’s they were climbing beyond 1.350-1.375+ load which is melting them down. (Newer bios have fixed this of course) that is the main high voltage issue. High Vcore under extreme loads or moderate loads long term. And high amperage under high heat.

Give it some solid testing in games, make sure it doesn’t freeze with DDR5 8200 using your current SA voltage and rock on! (give it a few days of solid testing in lots of things) My other SP99 14900KS had an SA bug. That was mainly why I returned it though. It couldn’t daily 8400 so I let it go back, I didn’t mind the SP99 at all 🤣. Real world daily limited me to about DDR5 8200 range for true stability with no freezing on that chip too. You’d think it was okay and stable at 8400, and then Randomly one day, your PC locks up, and then again randomly a week later. I got lucky on this 2nd SP108 with no sa bug, but since your chip is sp109 and very good cores, and if it can do DDR5 8000+ I’d say that is absolutely acceptable for SFF build. You may even be able to run some crazy tight 8000c32 or 8200c34. 😍 I’m all about sacrifices! And accepting weaknesses in a chip. They all have some sort of weakness anyways.

Just grab the 8200 G.Skill 2x24’s 😎 (They are better than the G.Skill 8400’s from what I can see and have heard from others as well) See pic below. That is 8400c40@1.400V with tighter timings than the 8400 XMP kit. I used the below test to make sure my ram was not a limiting factor, which it absolutely is not, but I had to see since I have Gskill 8200’s my self, and ended up with a great IMC. I have tested the Patriot 8200‘s they worked okay, but found them just slightly worse than my G.Skill 7200’s. Many rumors also point to the G.Skill 8200’s as being the superior bin to the G.Skill 8400’s. These sticks can even do 8600c40@1.400V for TM5 Anta777 Extreme/ MemtestPro/ 1usmus 20 cycles/Karhu. “All the usual lighter ram testing apps” 🤯 🤯🤯

This is taken inside my local Walmart in Dunn, North Carolina lol. 😂 They sale numerous popular PC parts, including a 14900K?!!! I knew the day was coming.

Oh yeah lol. x79 is DDR3. My goodness that was a while ago. Now that I think about it, I do remember running 1866 or 1833 on my Intel i7 3820.

You think DDR4 3200 can run on this setup? I can’t even remember where they top out at honestly. But that already looks insanely impressive! That bandwidth/latency is very good for this system. Let’s drop the 4090 in there for a quick test! 😀

I love it! But! That’s kinda silly to me with just 8/16 cores. That’s just not enough juice for gaming with even heavy 4K and pushing 4080/4090. With my E-Cores disabled and tuned 8600c36-49 I get the skips and stutters in some titles with just my 4080S. Maybe some titles are okay. But those E-Cores really help. I’d want 10/20 minimum like the OG 6950X/10900K 😀 but would take more!

You know, they have some odd ball enterprise chips in that socket, but I believe they are X99. I’m not sure if they are all V3’s for X99 or V2’s for X79. They made a 14 core unlocked for X99. They have the 1680’s 1681’s 1683’s and 1686’s too. There may be a 1691 I cannot remember off the top of my head. I do know of a 12/24 core and a 14/28 core Xeon unlocked that was enterprise only and it was just a monster in its hay day 2014 era. But that 1680 was always a great chip! It’s just a 5960X for the most part, but they used less power and ran cooler. Now you got me wanting one! PS: I had a 1660 V3 years ago. It was a nice chip. This was in 2015 I think. Back then the 1680’s were still like $1,400- $2,000 USD LOL. I have always loved these unlocked xeon chips though. Very few people ran them back in the day.

That is so cool especially the GPU and motherboard! I had a i7 3820 X79 platform. That was in like 2013 though. It was a really good overclocker. Unlike yours, mine had a semi locked multiplier. You could set 4.3Ghz, and use a little BCLK to get to 4.9-5Ghz for benching. I vote another GTX Titan as well! Retro builds are so cool. What’s funny is, this new system you have here is so much faster than most of my agents computers they buy from Walmart today for like $300-$400 dollars 🤣

Yes, but that chip cost me $1,600 USD from Germany, the prior 13900K was $1,360 USD. They are essentially bought binned, and sold at a huge loss. I’ve had my fair share of trash chips, which was why I started buying them binned originally. The 10900K I bought from @Mr. Fox was limited to 4.9Ghz, that chip stopped working, and I bought a retail 11900K which was not a good sample either @electrosoft ran circles around me with his 11900K on AIO. I did end up getting a really good 11900K though, but I did go on to buy (4) more turd 11900K’s and sold them all for $185 each😃. Had yeast two turd 13900K chips limited to 5.7Ghz (One barely could do even 5.7)My 13900KS was a SP104 below average, my 14900KS was a SP99 below average. The KS is a KS, so if you throw cooling at them they all scale great. I don’t think It’s luck really, it’s just stress and money spent unfortunately lol. 😂 I do believe my luck reveals the chips that can scale well, but it is also kind of a trick too. Because it probably won’t run like that on regular water temps. All I’m saying is, I have been buying an expensive binned chip for the past 2 years, I’m not going to do that anymore. I’m going to let the chips fall where they may, and stick to retail and coping, I get what I get. 🙂 Isn’t that how you roll @Papusan ? You just run the chip you get? I do remember one seriously good 8700K though. But besides that one.

The biggest reason why I’m not buying binned anymore is because I have been doing that and I have been chasing that, and its has been expensive, once you buy binned you receive a chip with high expectations in mind. And there might be a let down coming depending on what we paid. It’s a 50:50 chance lol. So I think it’s better to go in to something with no expectations, it is what it is mind set, do my own testing and draw my own conclusions is all. If I get an SP loser I can cope with it, but let’s test it and give it a chance, maybe try another one. I certainly don’t always win. I’m only showing bad items in a good light. My first SP99 KS was a very poor sample honestly. It had weak E-Cores, decent IMC, and the P-Cores were crap at anything but 5.9+. But I looked at the positives, and thought it was impressive for having P-Cores that could scale like a binned R-Batch, it was still a KS. My new 4090 is also a straight up loser 🥹. But it’s still a 4090, I paid less than retail so I’m okay with it. Speaking of 4090’s, their market value is finally settling down right now by the way. I had pre-ordered the Apex Encore just like most people, mine was not good at all it was terrible actually. I had a losing Apex Z690 too, I can keep going but I’m not gonna do that. I’ve been through many duds, and problems just like anyone else. That chase for perfection has become an obsession at times to the point Where I’m disappointed in a $1,500 dollar CPU, because it’s not competing with the $2,500 CPU that someone I know in China has 🤣 so I am letting go of all that, let’s rephrase that, (I am going to try and let go of that). Let the chips fall where they may “Literally haha”. And I’m going to start smoking copium probably.

I think the 14900KS is a nice improvement, and most of them are really good, so you don’t have to do all of this buying. It makes binning easy. They are all tested for a good 5.9+ Vmin and solid stability. The biggest thing I have learned is, all a delid will do is give me +100Mhz with a lower temperature. And that’s not worth the work. Running direct die also makes your previous stable ram overclocks a little tiny bit tougher most of the time. If I could go back I would not have delidded my R-Batch P117/E88, it had a very low 5.8 VF of 1.344v. It was a nice chip DD! But, even if I could go back I would still take my current 14900KS (SP108) the IMC on this chip is the best I’ve tested, the P/E cores are also fantastic and it can manage a lower load voltage than that R-batch could at 5.9Ghz. I can reset the bios load 8600c36-49 and load windows and I’m done. So I’m not worried one bit about the R-Batch. I had my fun with it. It was for sure an early “KS” before the KS even released. But since the KS launched even my SP99 (KS) could compete with it P-Core wise. I am finished buying binned chips. From now on I am buying only retail chips, and if it’s not testing good, I’m going to exchange it. If the 2nd one is the same then okay that’s fine, I’ll just run it. I think SP rating is just seriously incorrect and taken way too seriously. I had a low SP13900KS, and a low SP14900KS and both were great samples their main weaknesses were not the P cores but the IMC or the Cache. The differences between my SP99 and SP108 14900KS voltage requirements at 5.9Ghz is pretty small. It was maybe a 0.010-0.018V difference under a full load. With the direction that CPU overclocking and GPU demands are going I think system memory OC is probably more important now that we edge in to even more CPU bottleneck possibilities haha. So with future chip purchases, I’m going to test for IMC most importantly and P/E cores 2nd. Low SP or high SP I’m going to give them all a fair shake, I think with good cooling they’ll all be pretty close in the end. It’s nearly impossible to find something absolutely perfect anyways, all of these chips will have a weakness. Maybe it’s P-Cores, maybe E-Cores, maybe IMC, maybe it’s got a terrible cache lol. I may even skip next gen, and buy when KS version launches. If they do.

The single gen 5 PSU is the way to go! Those dongles are hideous to me. They work in a pinch, but I don’t like the look with all those 8 pins running to it. You have to be good with that MSI 1300 MEG PSU though. My MSI is the lower tier and less wattage than yours. I really like the PSU.

Is it safe to say the whole 4090’s catching fire thing was all from just improper usage? I have been running the Galax 666 watt bios, I can consistently pull 600+ watts in games for hours with no issues whatsoever. My wires right at the plug reach about 57C tops, and the plastic connectors may hit 40C if that. I have a slight curve in my cable for wire management, no major creases like some do. But, it’s been great. The 4090 really needs the 666 watt bios at a minimum to operate freely I think.

I have been getting this “GPU out of video memory” error since 13th gen first launched, all of those errors in the video are probably from me lol. I would use it as my quick and easy stability test lol. I knew that if BF2042 would not spit that GPU out of VRAM error, or The Last of US, during their shader decompression, then my system was 100% stable lol. The largest reason for this error is simply from voltage/clock speed/ power/heat. There’s some sort of silicon issue with that initial launch load going from 10-180 watts in 0.3 seconds and if that voltage isn’t enough, or if those temps aren’t cold enough. It’s going to fail. I actually had one last night lol. This one popped up after closing the game though so it did not bother me 🤣 I always undervolt using LLC and AC/DC etc, so I stretch the CPU‘s to their lowest possible voltage required to save on power and reduce heat. And this is where I have always seen the errors. (Not from running the chips stock) now, I use a chiller so these chips stay cold so that would probably explain why I never see the errors when running stock/auto voltage. Asus updated the bios and moved away from their LLC3 standard to now using LLC5 which made many of them go away. If your load voltage is high enough you won’t get that error at all. Pretty wild seeing this though. It fixed the problem for most. But it always came down to just a weird silicon sensitivity problem. You can always force the error to happen on any chip out there I doesn’t matter how amazing it is. They all spit the same error if you starve them too much on voltage with these very quick ramping shader compiling loads. I’m not sure who to blame here. But it’s something wrong with the CPU’s I guess. I can always make them work either way though. Hopefully next gen won’t have the issue. I recommend anyone with an Intel 13th/14th gen to run Cinebench R15 a few times. If they can get through that, they should be okay. Something about R15 and the instruction set it uses is much harder to run on a 13th/14th gen Intel than R23/R24. If they can’t get through R15, add more voltage lol. Then once it can run reliably, add another +0.010 and you should be good for never having “Out of GPU memory errors”

I think so too. I’m debating ordering a waterblock for it.

Yep! That would be nice. GPU’s leave a lot to be desired and it’s tough to land something perfect everytime. Good core, good memory, and no coil whine. Are you getting a 5090 HOF?

Maybe they’re mad, or maybe not lol. There are many 4090’s that can run a higher core clock limited to 1.070V than me unlocked at 1.100V 😂

Sounds like your cards might be okay core wise and memory. I tried three different bios so far, and I did try locking the core yesterday to 1.100V. I physically can’t do 2,970Mhz unfortunately. The Galax Bios was working pretty well for me, I also tried the Gigabyte gaming OC bios with the unlocked 1.100V, and also a new Gaming OC bios from April 2024. I might just leave this one on air cooling and be happy with it like my 4080 Super. I really enjoyed that card on air.

It’s a nice GPU. Not quite CPU limited. Even 1080P and hammering 300+ fps, it’s all GPU limits in the games I play. @Mr. Fox how did your gaming OC clock on air? And on water?