tps3443

My 14900KF doesn’t like Auto/Auto as much as my prior 13900KS did. I mean, it does work okay with it, but it does so much better with proper manual voltages found and dialed in. I would set a manual SA voltage, manual IVR TX, and manual IMC voltage. Y-Cruncher 2.5B is a good tool to fine tune the right voltage combo. So, I’d run like 8600c40 loose timings and keep adjusting voltages until you find a combo that passes Ycruncher 2.5B or TM5 1usmus. Voltages are guaranteed to be the problem here. Also, too much SA voltage can be a bad thing. Start at 1.190V SA voltage and work up in 0.010 increments. They all have that sweet spot. And that goes for IMC voltage, IVR TX voltage, and even VDD/VDDQ.

Wow E-SP70 is really pretty dang low. Thats probably about like E82 or E84 with a 13900K. Which still isn’t great.. I’d take an E-SP78 or E-SP79 with a (14900K) which would work good enough once on direct die at 4.7 or 4.8Ghz. Keep digging. Something good will shake loose.

Ordering up some more Koolance QD3’s in preparation for being able to easily remove the test bench/computer from the chiller and tank, and also the tank from the chiller. Koolance QD3’s really are amazing. I wish I could get them a little cheaper though. If anyone has any on here they wish to sell in 10/16 or G1/4 and 10/16 let me know. I’ll take all the Koolance QD3’s I can get. @Mr. Fox I ordered a Koolance filter too! I am going to place it right at the inlet going in to the PC, and I might even get another for the outlet from the PC going back to the chiller/tank just to be sure it filters anything going in PC, and also filters things going out of the PC. I’m gonna flush this thing before I tear it down for the move and I want it to be as easy as possible to do this. I want the tank, chiller, and test bench to all be easily separated in to just 3 pieces once I need to do so. When I set them up in the new place I want the tank and chiller to be installed inside a deep low cabinet. Im going to vent one side of the cabinet and install some fans inside of the cabinet for airflow. But I don’t want the chiller or tank to be visible while inside the room. upload images postimg

Should be moved in by June. Still gonna be a while. They have to build the home which takes a couple of months, we will close next month. But then they to clear the lot and have it set up on the land. I have some months ahead of me still.

We had the option of going with 4BR or swapping the 4th bedroom for an open family room which will be my office. So there is no door. So the room is always open for air flow to the hall way or mud room. I had the chiller in mind when picking this just in case I leave the chiller in the room lol. The 1st pic is a picture of my new office room below, not the actual house we bought, but it is identical to what we ordered. No door, so no trapped heat. 😃 and the laundry room in the 2nd pic right next to it, which I am hoping the heat will bleed off to and in the hall way. It’s gonna be great I think. Ever since going chiller only it has really been nice. It’s 100% reliable, no radiators or extra fans. And it doesn’t use too much extra power. I don’t really need the 15C water, so I may step up to 18 or 20C. Since I also have a 10 gallon buffer tank, my water temp stays super accurate within like +/- 0.3 to 0.6C at all times whether chiller is on or off. It’s not very fun moving them or setting it all up again though.

I changed my mind on the whole AIO thing. Maybe I’d use a AIO for cooling a SSD drive but that’s about it. 😂 It’s going to be even crazier when I move though. I’m thinking about putting the chiller under the home and drilling holes in the floor with quick disconnects on a small steel floor panel. I think it would be awesome. You wouldn’t hear or see the chiller. If I do keep it in the room I’m not sure how I’ll set it up. I just want it looking nice and neat.

Hey you hear about possible future Xbox consoles going with Intel for chips and not AMD?

😀 Flow rate is looking good! It is calibrated to my High Flow II.

I’m excited to buy one of these 14900KS chips and see how it compares to my 14900KF 😃 I’m not gonna put much regard in VFcurve though. I know we won’t be able to compare a 14900KS VF or SP to a 14900K VF and SP. But real world testing will show what’s best, or if it’s worth it. @electrosoft I don’t mean an outlier setup. I just mean a stock 14900K with no power limits and DDR5 8000. But I have no idea how a AMD X3D setup actually performs. As for my chip, it doesn’t need a chiller. I just have a chiller lol. I use the chiller to save its life from burn-in lol. It keeps the silicon nice and fresh like vegetables in a refrigerator 🤣

As far as I know a stock 13900K actually runs 5.4Ghz all-core officially. Now, imagine 1080P gaming with that. Using something like a 4080/4090 or 7900XTX. That’s a high frame rate driving some massive CPU power. Probably even pushing it to the power limit of 253W max. I imagine just increasing the power limit alone would boost things right alone. But 5.4Ghz to 5.9Ghz is about 10% more clock speed. Unlimited power, and tuned DDR5 with actual low latency like 50ns or less should absolutely blast a 7800X3D

@Mr. Fox Sorry. Here it is. Overclocking "Raptor Lake refresh" - 14900k,14700k, 14600k etc results, bins and discussion | Page 43 | Overclock.net

This is the binning statistics for everyone who posted their SP ratings and VF Curves and also batch numbers. Not really a good sample size because its only people sharing the SP who actually give a crap. While we have a slew of people out there who have no idea lol. But it is kind of helpful. #1 Best 6.0 VFCurve 1.388 #2 Best 6.0 VFCurve 1.398 #3 Best 6.0 VFCurve 1.403 #4 Best 6.0 VFCurve 1.408 #5 Best 6.0 VFCurve 1.413 --------------------------- #1 Best 5.8 VFCurve 1.329 #2 Best 5.8 VFCurve 1.344 #3 Best 5.8 VFCurve 1.349 #4 Best 5.8 VFCurve 1.354 #5 Best 5.8 VFCurve 1.359 --------------------------- #1 Best P-SP (SP123) #2 Best P-SP (SP121) #3 Best P-SP (SP120) #4 Best P-SP (P-SP118) #5 Best P-SP (P-SP117) ---------------------------- #1 Best E-SP=93 #2 Best E-SP=91 #3 Best E-SP=89 #4 Best E-SP=88 #5 Best E-SP=86 ----------------------------

This pink stuff is amazing! I’m going to order the little tub of it for sure that cost like $90 bucks I know that’s a lot, but this paste is that good, and I don’t know how long this will last lol. Maybe 1 months, maybe 2 months. But it’s an actual difference you can see. I powered off pulled chip, reapplied new paste, powered on and ran again right on the same profile and water temp. And shaved -4C right away.

I did a re-paste with Kryonaut Extreme on my CPU and dropped 4C on everything. 😁 I shaved off about 2 watts of power, and it made a huge difference. I was using TF7 before which had 650 hours on that mount since getting this 14900kfr CPU. Every single core dropped by exactly 4C. Identical water temp/ room temp. I’m seriously wondering how that’s even possible. I did use some Flitz polish on my waterblock cold plate and mirrored it up real nice. But that’s all I did. I’ll take it! Worth the $20 bucks I think. 😎 BEFORE AFTER

You know I was so tempted to buy one when I was waiting on 4080 Super stock, it felt like they just weren’t coming back in-stock. I was really wanting the 7900XTX Nitro+ which I think may be one of the best overclocking 7900XTX. But maybe I’m mistaken. I saw some others for even $890 dollars, and I was seriously questioning my decision on spending $900 vs $1200. Which model did you get?

Check this out everyone. I was browsing through MSI Store, and I was looking at their pre-built desktops and I saw this. It looks like it comes with 14900K, Godlike Z790 motherboard in the photos? Is that correct? And also a Suprim Liquid-X 4090? All for $3,899. That’s not a terrible deal. And it’s really top notch parts for a pre-built PC. I guess it’s all MSI brand parts, but higher end MSI parts, which seems pretty unique and also odd. Nothing I’d buy, but I’m just appreciating the part selection here which seems really high end for a “Pre-Built” name brand PC. Definitely better than a Alienware or Dell. https://us-store.msi.com/gaming-pcs/Infinite-RS-14NUI9-630US?sort=p.price&order=DESC

Aorus Master RTX 4080 SUPER in-Stock on Newegg if anyone interested. $1,159 Some other models for $1,049.99 are available too. https://www.newegg.com/zotac-geforce-rtx-4080-super-zt-d40820q-10p/p/N82E16814500581 https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-4080-super-gv-n408saorus-m-16gd/p/N82E16814932669?Item=N82E16814932669&utm_medium=email&utm_source=transactional&cm_mmc=TEMC-Function-AutoNotify-USA-_-N82E16814932669-_-003793&utm_campaign=TEMC-AutoNotify-US-_-003793

What does it score?

MCSP does not impact how far a memory controller will overclock, it directly impacts how much IMC voltage is needed to achieve the same overclock. You may find a 14900K mcsp75 and it runs DDR5 8200 Memtest stable with 1.475V CPU IMC. But you could test a 14900K mcsp85 that only needs 1.300v CPU IMC voltage for the same 8200. I think higher mcsp directly leads to lower cpu IMC voltage, and also lower SA voltage too.

I’m actually thinking about down sizing my whole system. I’m moving soon, and I’m not sure if I want to drag all this with me lol. I’m considering getting out of the “extreme game” and just running normal case with a AIO on a normal CPU with stock speeds. It’s been fun. But definitely I’m not looking forward to moving my work PC 🤣

@Mr. Fox I’d test both 14900K’s and settle for whichever can produce about 1.300-1.320V under load stock at 6Ghz. Because once you pop the IHS and run direct die it’ll take off another 0.040-0.050 more under load putting you at or below 1.270V equivalent to your KS. I do not think the Bios VFcurves are comparable between 13900KS and 14900K. So I wouldn’t go by that too much. I do think SP97+ is pretty dang good though. Many of these lower SP chips are on direct die 6Ghz+ doing 1.243V-1.260V load. So I think you will be surprised. Also, check the E-Cores and ring as well. Both on 14th gen are pretty amazing. Unless it’s a complete dud chip lol.

So the power usage is wrong. That makes sense now. I was wondering like what in the world man. You’re gonna weld the Direct die to the die. 😂

Didnt you just post a run the other day at 6Ghz pulling sub 400 watts? That 550 seems inaccurate. Maybe I’m crazy lol. That seems like a lot of power though.

Yeah I’m running chilled water for sure. But it’s not that cold. I stick to 15C daily, and 15C in the runs below. But the chip isn’t delidded so it still gets very hot. If it was direct die I’d be whooping on my old 13900KS which I can’t lol. That chip could do 6.1P/4.8 simply because it had the thermal headroom being direct die, lapped die, and 15C water. I already touch 80C temps at only 350 watts. So, my cooling isn’t that good. The block and contact is actually pretty poor I think. Simply because It’s a stock chip with stock Intel soldered IHS so temps aren’t good like DD+Chiller. These are old runs on my last OS. uploading pictures

No, I hit like 350 watts for 6.0P/4.8E/5.2R manual voltage R23. It hits about 45,200. The 600 watts is really astounding.