tps3443

Yeah it’s ridiculous. They need to make more of them. I’d give in too just like anyone else would and I’d also own an Astral lol. I think it’s what we would all end up with if given the choice to spend over 3K. I think prices in the US are even worse than your pricing and that’s a first right? I think I’m going to be watercooling my 5090. I hope EKWB does not fail us with the FE block. I have not seen anyone with one just yet. But I’m waiting.

@electrosoft You might be under Asus’s ROG spell. He would have to be nuts to fork over a 5090FE and $1,400 for an Astral. I think 99% of Astral owners cannot buy a FE for $1,999 so they go this route > (I’m already getting hosed at $2,900+ for a Ventus so let me just get hosed for $3,359 on the Astral INSTEAD) All I know is this..I would not pay + anything over my FE for an Astral unless It was the only option @electrosoft you should steer this guy straight he should keep his 5090FE and learn to love it. Or maybe just trade him.. You could literally swap with this guy and build an entire custom loop inside a brand new anything case you wanted and fold your own Astral with the ultra silent watercooled FE 🫠. Of course the Astral runs higher clocks right now, it’s the size of a bus man. Add a block to both the FE and the Astral and what are the benefits of the Astral…. I mean, I can run CB2077 RT+PT with nice clocks of 3,075Mhz@550 watts even with a higher core temp of 72c, and with rasterized games that are like Unigine heaven typically I can push as high as 3.2Ghz@64c. Below are some examples of my FE. Worst case scenario is Ray Tracing with Path Tracing auto fan 72c@3,075Mhz@550 watts. Better case scenario is faster fan speed and 3.2Ghz in rasterized gaming scenario. That’s a +425 offset on the core in Unigine Haven 4K. The thing clocks to the moon, it’s just waiting for temp algorithm to be in its favor. 😁

If he wants an Astral, I would just tell your buddy to sell his 5090FE and go buy an Astral, he doesn’t need yours. He can get $3,500 for his FE no problem. The market on these FE’s has gone up substantially on eBay. And he would not have to add any money at all. And even if he could not find an MSRP Astral, he has $1,400 he’s trying to add, so he can just go buy one of the $4,399 dollar Scalper Astrals on eBay and add much less cash.

Flash the Astral bios to your Suprim and see if anything changes with load voltages. It’s good you can run +3,000 though. Some 5090’s cannot run that. Also, these cards do see transient spikes of like 800+ watts in power draw. But yeah they are just a little power limited for heavy OC in power virus applications, but honestly I think it’s just as efficient as my 4090 was, when I run my 5090FE stock the power draw is pretty low in my games in 4K. I haven’t come across any games yet that are bouncing off 600w. If I undervolt it, it stays extremely low on power consumption. My 5090 stays low on voltage too, even lower than yours. 😃 But I love it because it barely uses power. And the default 575w is more than enough for 4K gaming for me (Even without undervolting) Congratulations! You’ve got the same GPU as @win32asmguy

Time to put the fans back in and put doors on 😂. I’d be tempted to run that Astral in a vertical position as well. Also, time for custom loop as well. You one need (1) HWlab GTX, and fans on one side. You can make it very quiet. I run mine super quiet. But I see why you don’t run a loop. With 9800X3D/9950X3D it seems like we can get peak performance with a fanless rock resting on it lol.

I think realworld the RTX 5080 for the FE price of $1,000 it is reasonable, it’s a lot cheaper than a 4090 after all. You can OC them and yield some good numbers from them as well. The OC headroom is gonna make that thing a crusher in games. I think the nvidia features are good. DLSS+FG are really good tools, that boost performance even further. I think on paper the 9070XT seems great. But real world, when we turn on DLSS/RT/Frame Gen etc. The 5080 is going to do abnormally well. Also, I lapped the IHS of my Xeon 3175x last night lol. Stayed up until 3:30am working on it. Hard tube really ain’t all that bad. I can pull the block pretty quick. I had to clean the cold plate. It was clogged from previous owner. Reassembled, full loop passed leak test on first try. I dropped 10c CPU temps. And picked up 50L/H in flow rate. @electrosoft and @Clamibot the Coolermaster CryoFuze Thermalpaste is literally Thermalright TFX. Kinda tough to spread, but insanely good temp results. I’m not sure how well this will work on direct die situations. But it’ll peel up on you if you’re spreading and don’t apply enough pressure on the spatula when spreading. For the money, the stuff works VERY well. Once you spread it, you’ll be like YUP that’s Thermalright TFX but it’s really not too bad to spread. The performance results are definitely worth it!

Well, when we compare $2,000 vs $3,500 or $1,000 vs $1,650 that’s not like a lesser evil. That’s like not having an extra hole put in your ass. 🤣 I’d rather overpay for a 5090 than overpay for a 5080 all day. I think we all agree with this.

5070FE/ 5080FE/ 5090FE or a $1,500 dollar 4090 are the real value cards right now. $500 (It games) $1,000 (It games really well) $1,500 (one notch below beast mode) $2,000 (Beast mode) This whole 5060/5060Ti mess is a nightmare. Just like the AIB 5070Ti cards, and AIB 5080/5090 cards. Ridiculous pricing.

No worries, I called him out for you. Than Nguyen has done some shady stuff in the past man with the items he sells.

Looks like the new driver that launched today has changed something with the clocks of the 5090. Mine downclocks to 22Mhz now, previously it only downclocked to 180mhz. My GPU typically idles at 34-35c range. And after closing a game, the card gets right back to that really low idle temp a little faster now. Bone stock Steel Nomad scores look typical as well for a completely stock 5090FE with default 575w PL and PCIe Gen 3.0

You gotta shunt mod them both!!! You will need (4) 8ohm resistors to do both cards. It’ll give you another 40% more power headroom. I was getting over 25% more out of 2080Ti “Non-A” variants compared to stock. Those Non-A models were limited to 300w, and you could not flash the bios. (Just like RTX Titan were limited to the Nvidia bios). Only shunt. Once you get them on water, those RTX Titans will lock in to 2,130Mhz+ on the core. Maybe even more depending on the bin. You might get like 2,200 which would be amazing. I’d OC the memory to death and roll on.

New Nvidia driver launched today! 572.83 was around for an entire month long. It was a good driver for sure. But 576.02 has just released today!

Check the Battlestate games website. Go ahead and get it. We can go in some raids. This game is very tough. There’s no map, no hud, no pointer showing us where to extract lol. We can go on some raids, it’s a very rewarding game though. I don’t have any friends on there besides playing with my son. The more the merrier though!! Oh and this game is crazy CPU dependent. 285K should probably work extremely well. GPU doesn’t seem to matter all that much. I think a 3070 would do the trick. Everyone. I’m thinking about dumping all the RGB stuff. It looks so much better without the lights!!

Yes it’s fantastic!! And yes that is foreal. Most realistic shooting game I have ever played. If you die in a real raid, you lose your stuff unless you insured it, or if someone takes it and extracts, it’s gone. All weapons are real, all firearm parts and accessories are real life items that have been scanned. Not no name stuff. Some items of course are made up names but not the guns and gear. Like the in game Coca-Cola is called Tar-Cola. But all of the guns and suppressors and chest rigs and accessories are actual items in real life. Give the game a chance and you’ll love it. 1 tap to the head with anything and the enemy is dead. So physics are good as well lol. When you go on a raid, make sure to pick day time. The time is in military time. If it’s night time you won’t be able to see crap. Unless you have night vision Goggles or a flashlight. They have been making this game since 2012. So the items are endless.. It’s really crazy. I just started playing it this month or late last month. Cant remember.

Speaking of ridiculous GPU prices.. I found my first GPU in Tarkov PC game! And yeah even in this game they sell for ₽124,000 Rubles which is equivalent to $919 USD, and it’s like an old Asus GTX 1070 😂. They are quite a valuable item though! I’m selling mine 100% lol. Gonna spend the money on ammunition and guns etc lol. Escape from Tarkov is amazing though. You can buy guns in pieces for less money, and put it back together and use it. Very cool. I went in to a raid once with no barrel. Oops. I was completely useless.

That’s excellent. Now you’ve got to waterblock both of those RTX Titan’s. They deserve it! That would be really amazing! And you’ve gotta solder shunts on them! For the 450+ watt power limit. They grow some major legs when that is done. Like 20% boost. I learned with hard tubing when I was practice bending, I was always trying to heat a tube too quickly, I wanted to get from 0 to bend in 3.5 seconds lol. And this is where my bends would fail. I had to be patient with heating the tube. And I wouldn’t just heat it and allow the bend, I’d heat where it will bend and also heat around that area of the bend very slowly for best results, I think it takes some serious skill and technique that I don't have to heat quickly without deforming a tube so I found heating a large area at the bend and around the bend very slowly allows the most room without error or ugly bulges or veins popping up on the bend area. That way the 90 or 45 or 30 bend doesn’t deform the nice round shape of the tube, I’d also not force a bend, let the weight of the tube bend itself, I learned heating too quickly would put us in a very narrow area of potentially melting or bubbling the tube, or seeing those veins or bulges. I bought my tubing 2nd hand from a forum member. So, he sent me like 10 new 1,000mm tubes. So I was able to practice a good amount. Do you run any games with the Titan XP’s in SLI?

I think most of the guys managed to snag a 5090, it took me like 45 days after launch to acquire one. How are you liking hard line? I did my first hard line build as well inside a case. I love it personally. I had no issues with leaks and all is well with it. I incorporated lots of pumps, a filter, and a drain, for easy access. I went in to this expecting difficulties and headaches. But I’m happy with it! And the tubing stays CRYSTAL clear. So it’s been great. I went with (2) 480mm HWlab GTX, and P28 fans. It performs extremely well. I did 2 D5’s basement, and 2 D5 distro plate. My idea was to run them all at a lower speed and still maintain good pressure.

I am completely happy with the FE model. To be honest I really did not want a FE originally. If I could have had my choice it was a Suprim, MSI Vanguard, or Gigabyte Gaming OC, Aorus Waterforce WB, maybe something like that. The only thing appealing about the FE was the price, so it was considered as a back up last resort, I did not want the dinky cooler. But now that I own one, I really like it and it grew on me fast. Some of the main concerns kept me from wanting one 100% originally. High memory temps, I wondered if the liquid metal was done correctly and stuff like that if I was gonna have to re-do the liquid metal, I worried about issues with the PCIe connector being modular, I worried about noise and high temps. After you ordered your Astral I thought man I could sell my 5090FE and get an Astral too lol. But, then I started to love the GPU for what it was engineering and all. I think it's a genius design, none of my original concerns were real problems. Overclocks really aren't all that much worse. If you're running 3,100 to 3,200. I am running 3,030-3,130 with the typical +3,000 memory (Depending on the title). But I am finding that overclocking seems to be silly. I do not feel a difference. It's like going from a gazillion fps to a gazillion and 1 fps. Overclocking the 4090 was a little more useful, because that card was 450w bios. So, bumping it up to the 600w bios helped a lot in 4K. But I think as a whole the card just works. I am not forcing myself to like it. I just like it! I am content with it. In this hobby it's easy to see something else and lust for it until you break down and get it lol. So, I'm not doing any of that, so I'm 100% glad about that. 🤣 As of right now, I am not interested in trying any other 5090's. I might water block this one. But mainly just because I want my whole build to be custom loop+ hard line tubing and finished. But I might not, I think since the card stays quiet and does the job well. I might just leave the thing on air cooling. I've eased up a lot on the whole extreme overclocking.

During launch day I was open to just about any 5090 honestly, I’m not too picky lately. I think it’s just the model we happen upon or end up with. And we like it because it’s ours and we can only appreciate the features or experience of that particular model compared to prior experiences. If I had another 5090 like a Ventus 5090 or PNY 5090, I’m sure I could find some positives to speak on with those too, just like many other models. No doubt some models may completely suck. But most are probably fine and get the job done.

So far, the Lian Li 1200W Edge Gold is holding up great. 12v rail never drops below 12v EVER with the RTX5090FE. Three runs with Steel Nomad. Memory is at +3,000 on my 5090. I also want to touch on memory temps. Because I think the memory temps are really good with the Dinky FE model. Even overclocked, and auto fan, it stays at 80c or less during long term gaming inside a closed case. If you run the memory stock it will run at 72-74c. I'm sure the big AIB cards may do better than this, but its not an issue on the dinky FE model. 🙂

I’ve only used this paste on the IHS, and it has done amazing for that. You’ll have to test it and see. I know Kryonaut Extreme cannot be used on die, it all just pushes right off the die it’s the oddest thing lol. I will probably redo my laptop paste again with this stuff, and see if it works. But I’m waiting on my thermal putty to show up.

I think Coolermaster believes that color matters for making money lol, which is why they are selling all of these other gimmicky thermal paste like “CryoFuze Violet/red/white/black/blue” This paste just works good though. Dirt cheap and high very performance. It can match Kryonaut Extreme and go toe to toe.

I test many thermal paste. You just have to take my word on it. It’s VERY good! Color has nothing to do with it. Their newer paste is garbage and a gimmick. The link I originally posted is the original CryoFuze with a 14Wmk thermal conductivity. The stuff @papusan shared is CryoFuse 5 which is lower thermal conductivity/more expensive/ and they started trying to sell different colors as a gimmick for more money and scam people 😂. They also have some CryoFuze 7 which still isn’t as good as this one. I discovered this paste when I first ran LGA1700. It really works well. It performs with the best. @electrosoft The paste I shared is not CryoFuze Violet, it’s not CryoFuze 5, and it’s not CryoFuze 7. It’s specifically called “CryoFuze” and it’s the 14W/mk stuff which as far as I know will probably be discontinued. It is unbeatable for $5.81 for 2 grams. Oh, the paste is gray in color @Papusan 😁 lol

If anyone didn’t know. This is hands down the highest performing thermal paste I’ve ever used for the lowest price possible. It performs like Kryonaut Extreme pink paste. But this stuff spreads easier and is only $3 dollars per gram 😁 Don’t tell anyone! It’s only $5.99 on Amazon. Their newer stuff cannot compete with this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Performance-Nanoparticles-Conductivity/dp/B09JY3S6LL/ref=pd_lpo_d_sccl_1/139-7628459-0114413?pd_rd_w=4DKUg&content-id=amzn1.sym.4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_p=4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_r=R697DH8A95XTD1XW0Z0W&pd_rd_wg=UFWcF&pd_rd_r=71e5e821-bae2-4386-8a4d-9c7e1213a2e0&pd_rd_i=B09JY3S6LL&th=1

Distro plates carry vibration pretty bad, much worse than any dual pump top made of dense nylon or Pom material. Especially at 100% RPM, these distro plates act like a vibration amplifier. What I did was I put these rubber washers on my distro and it still had not removed all the vibration. It helped a little. But I think the rubber is too firm. And I need some ultra soft rubber washers. I can feel the vibrations through my mousepad in to my mouse. 😂