tps3443

Wow! I’m surprised to hear that. I figured you’d be keeping the Astral for the long haul.

New Game ready Nvidia driver is out. Who’s trying it?

Imagine giving all 5090 owners a 1,200 watt XOC bios. 🤣 My goodness.

Big variance on FE’s for sure. Mine sips power and voltage like Tea. In the video it’s in a closed case, but If I open my case it drops a good bit more in temps.

This might seem crazy but I was expecting more from 9070XT. Maybe that 3080 could be squeezed even further! I have mine! I’m ready for FE blocks. 🫠

No one has shunted FE yet, I have not seen one. I think everyone is being a sissy about taking them apart lol. No blocks available yet, so I think most people are waiting until they have a block before shunting the card. I think shunting and re-mounting stock cooler is probably pointless. So, with my motherboard Nvinspector forced or not, I physically cannot enable Rebar. I have tried to modify the Dominus bios and dump the Rebar file on the latest bios, then flash the new modified bios, then enable rebar via CMD. And it just won't work. I lose monitor signal after setting the rebar size limit with the Rebar.exe tool. Physically impossible to make Rebar work on the Dominus which is the stupidest thing man. Because the SR3 Dark actually supports Rebar. So, with a slight PCIe Gen 3 bottleneck of 3-4% and No Rebar which cost me about another 2-3% these two things are of course setting me back on Steel Nomad severely. I should be sitting much higher than 15,350.

Thats a great run. I cannot hit more than 15.3k with mine. Not only is my Founders Edition model in the stock format holding me back, but my current platform is holding me back by about 500 points at least. My stock score is like 13,800. I just cannot get Rebar working. And PCIe Gen 3. I think it's getting about that time to retire the Dominus/3175x soon.

@johnksss Share your Steel Nomad results please.

That's what I have been going by since my 4090. The Nvidia overlay uses the GPU effective clock speed just like HWinfo does(Only I did not know this). My FE does a great job with keeping up high internal clock speeds considering how dang hot and tiny it is. You seriously need to shunt that card. If I had a block already, mine would be done. Lucky you, you have a few block choices already available for blocks, I think. @Papusan Are you watercooling your Astral lc as well?

So which one do you go by? You use MSI Afterburner OSD? So if this is the case. my care completely stock runs 2,880Mhz in games. Which I had no idea. I am curious to know how the astral is. Man, you are on your 3rd 5090 now? 🤣Nice!

Dang congrats man! So, MSI Afterburner OSD shows the external clock. Which is greatly inflated. If I go by these measurements my card is a 3.3Ghz+ queen everywhere. But the internal clock is only 3.1Ghz+ range. GPUz also only shows external clock. HWinfo has both. Nvidia Overlay shows internal clock only! I had no idea all this time, I’ve been thinking my clocks are much lower than what they actually were. 🙂

I run 3.3Ghz in games now. Do not mind the 30c I have the temp bug in latest driver 😒 lol. I can’t wait to water this bad boy. Using MSI AB below.

I need to up my storage game. I really want to do 4x4TB in raid 0 with my two Dimm 2 slots on my Dominus Extreme. I’ve been running a 2TB only. And I’m getting tired of running out of space. I don’t use Epic that much. I’ll take a look at it. I’m almost always using Steam or Gamepass. I just discovered something interesting with my 5090 FE. So my clocks were kinda pathetic.. And I guess they are, but that’s a stock 5090fe after all, however I notice using Rivatuner/MSI AB OSD, and that app shows the external clock speed. If I use Rivatuner through MSI AB it says my card is running 2,872Mhz “Stock”. The Nvidia app portrays the internal effective clock speed. Right now I’m playing KCDII and Nvidia overlay says “2,670Mhz” that’s a stock 5090fe spec. But GPUz says “2,857Mhz” and even HWInfo says “2,857Mhz” I never knew this before. But just something to consider. If I go by this number, it’s going to show some seriously inflated clock speeds. I’m actually amazed by this because if I run MSI AB as an overlay it shows some pretty WILD clock speeds of about +200 on everything. So, if I’m running just 3,270 I’m running 3,470 using your monitoring tool.

Where do I buy Alan Wake 2 at?

High voltage or low voltage the 5090’s can scale up really well I think. We just need low temps, and 1,000+ watts of power!

If your card uses less voltage it just means it probably leaks less than 5090’s that ask for more voltage. But high voltage or low voltage does not determine how high the silicon can scale. @Papusan What does your Astral voltage run at?

I’m not swapping my card. I absolutely love it! I feel like it’s a great example of what an FE is supposed to be. It’s quiet and It’s a low power 5090. I’m very happy with my silicon so far. I feel like Its an excellent sample, clocks can fly without crashing, of course I’m bound by power and temps right now. But I see absolutely no reason to waterblock/Shunt/OC any other GPU. We have what we have. This thing is used for playing games and work, I’m not stressing my self over finding something else. 😃 As far as binning goes with 5090’s that is a massive waste of time for me and most. But I know some people who are testing 3+ Astrals or 3+ other models and keeping whichever does best. The reality is, I think any 5090 is going to run 3,200 internally and some models may run 3,400 internally (Once shunted and on water of course) @electrosoft I thought the 5080FE was overclocked faster than 5090FE by default. But, it isn’t and that’s interesting.. That’s exactly what my 5090 runs at, Your 5080 looks perfectly fine to me though. These cards are not factory overclocked, that boost and voltage is identical to what my 5090 does 2,887 stock. You have essentially added +300 in core and +3000 memory and gained +20 watts more. Your load voltage is even less than stock clocks as the card is still power limited. Notice your voltage went down with the higher overclock even though it’s 1 degree cooler and only 270 watts that card is power limited before even hitting its power limit. This is the case with 50 series unfortunately and our internal clock falls to the floor. Apparently the 5090’s can hit this limit at low 500w sometimes even 450w. You would have to do +473 or maybe +500 and increase power slider to 104% to do a more fair comparison since the Astral has a maxed power slider by default at 100% and a factory OC of +173 It’ll probably drop voltage even more though but I think the silicon can handle it. These cards are so artificially limited man it’s crazy. If you could flash it to the Astral 5080 bios, I think then you’d see it fly just for the extra power head room alone with 5080’s. Or shunt mod it. 😃

Yzonker has a 5090 Astral shunt modded and on water and he cannot lock more than 1075mv. So it really seems to be all over the place card to card.

I cannot lock that voltage. My card maxes out even with lower temps.

Also too, when checking voltage. Make sure your temp is below 56c. That is some vital point with 5090’s. So I’d test yours again, just like you’re doing now only with sub 56c temps. This will reflect its true max voltage. Or at least that’s how it was explained to me.

So I have learned that the GPU voltage is not determined by the bios, so even if we flashed to Astral bios. Some Astrals/Suprim’s cannot hit 1.110v even locked in at 1.100v+ with 100% slider. The voltage is controlled directly by the core. I will never see a 1075 in real world either mine is typically 0.990-1.010 and with 100% slider it’ll show a 1.020 So, in order to see the 1075v “At Idle” you need to set 100% voltage slider, and set the 1.110v point on the graph and hit Shift+L to lock it in. This will lock in your highest GPU’s voltage “That it needs” for that set frequency at the 1.1100 voltage graph point. This voltage isn’t controlled by the bios. It’s completely based on the cores needs. My 5090FE is very quiet. 575w in a closed case it stays below 50% Auto fan speed. Undervolting it drops that to sub 40% fan speeds. The main thing with my card is I never see power usage this high unless I’m running Furmark or 4K scaled up 200% to 8K. Since I’m shunt modding, I have to remove the cooler which means I won’t be reinstalling the original air cooler. I’m not taking the cooler off until I have a waterblock in hand though. Once I get a block so I can tear my card apart, I’m going to solder on the shunt. This will make a massive difference for all 5090’s in their internal effective clock speed.

I really wanted my whole system to be watercooled when I was building this rig and I had kinda prepped with the 4090. We just don’t have any blocks yet for FE models. So, I had already ordered my Fujipoly fullcover rear thermal pad (Originally for the 4090 never used it) but now I’ve ordered some shunts, but I can’t add any of these items until I get a waterblock. FE blocks are taking a little longer than the other models, but they’re coming. I’m really curious what the Bitspower block will even look like.

I can’t believe we have an Oblivion remastered in 2025 on PC it has RT/FG/DLSS support lol! Just came out today on game pass. I remember struggling to run this one smoothly at 20-30fps with my GeForce 6600GT. I was running 1280x1024. I ended up beating Oblivion on a ATI X850 Pro that was flashed to an X850XT bios via floppy disc lol.

Well, I’d look at undervolting to give you an idea. It could be pulling more just due to a higher default voltage curve and that’s making it seem like it’s using much more power. Is this a PNY RGB OC model? What was wrong with the Trio you got?

That’s really good! Which card is this? I would absolutely shunt the card. I went with the 1.5 Ohm 3 watt resistor for my FE from mouser. The stock FE has a single 1 ohm resistor, so stacking 1.5 ohm on top will give me 1,050 watts not counting the PCIe slot power. Bitspower may or may not be sending me a GPU block for testing. Fingers crossed.🤞 I’ve been bugging them to death so we’ll see what happens. The 5090 even shunted is going to chow down 900+ watts even with lower voltages. These cards are throttling hard though man. The biggest issue is the internal clock that is actually running. The cards are reflecting a higher clock speed externally, but it’s really running much slower than that effectively. It’s like a rubber band effect to prevent crashing due to power limits. So shunting will eliminate this entirely!