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Steerpike

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  1. Steerpike
    Did you ever try any 'before/after' comparisons of power utilization of the SSD? Turns out, I'm using my laptop every day now on battery, all day, so I'm very keen to optimize usage.
  2. Steerpike
    USB C hub issue - I bought this decent-looking USB-C Hub on Amazon - Amazon.com: Baseus 8-in-1 USB C Hub Docking Station, USB C Adapter with 4K HDMI, 3 USB 3.0, TF/SD Reader, Ethernet, 100W Power Delivery ... but when I plug it in, and then plug power into it, I get the warning "An auxiliary power source with a lower rating has been connected. The battery may be discharged ... connect a properly rated adaptor ...". The power source is the original 65W unit that shipped with the laptop. I've tried other 3rd party chargers and they work without issue when directly plugged in, but I get the same warning message when connecting through this 'hub'. So it would seem there is a problem in the way this hub is handling power. I'm assuming a properly designed hub like this should pass through the power with no issues? The battery DOES charge, and (eg) the video port works, so the hub is functioning, it's just that I'm getting this warnng. Is there any way to troubleshoot a power source? I now understand (from looking into USB-C PD cables) that USB-C PD is quite complex, and involves 'negotiation' between power supply and device. I can imagine a utility that would hook into the driver for the power subsystem on the laptop, and reveal various things (such as, what power levels were negotiated). Could it be that the laptop wants 65W, and the hub itself is using a small fraction of the power being delivered by the 65W supply for it's own purposes, and thus only, say, 62 watts are being passed through, which is being detected as 'not sufficient'? I really don't care if the device is 'only' passing through, say, 60W but it's not telling me how much; for all I know, I may only be getting a very low power delivery. I guess I could reverse-engineer the actual power delivery by using Battery Info View to monitor the battery level over time ...
  3. Steerpike
    Can you elaborate on how win 11 handles multiple monitors better? I've been using Win 11 with my Gram 17 for over 3 months now (came pre-installed). Explorer Patcher lets me forget it's not Win 10, and I have to say, I've had only 1 BSOD in 3 months, which is pretty amazing. I've also only 'restarted' (as opposed to sleep/hibernate) a handful of times - it feels a bit like the energizer bunny - it just keeps going ... I wish I could give you information on battery life; I'm intuitively not getting great battery life, but without configuring the exact same machine with win 10, and using it in parallel with the same websites, etc, I don't know how to really offer a comparative answer. Just one website (out of 50 or so I have permanently loaded) can go 'rogue' and cause CPU usage to go higher. Since installing uBlock origin pop-up blocker, and tweaking some 'widget' settings, I'm seeing typical consumption around 7-9 watts for typical web browsing, email handling, etc. What I haven't seen is any of the 'commercialization' of Win 11 that people on here were complaining about. It behaves exactly like win 10 in my opinion, no more or less ads, no more or less anything really.
  4. Steerpike
    We need more pictures! Does all this have to be running while you are actually sleeping in the room, or does the mineshaft close down at night?
  5. Steerpike
    I just found this interesting page - Designing a Type-C electronically marked cable - Part 1 - which explains the concept of 'EMCA' as applied to USB-C PD - "Electronically Marked Cable Assembly". In order for a USB-C PD cable to be able to carry more than 3A, the cable has to have the "EMCA" capability added. This is an active chip in the cable 'head' itself, which carries information about the cable characteristics. Without EMCA, a USB-C PD cable is limited to 3A. Thus, there appear to be at least two categories of power cables in this realm: 'Type-C only' - The USB Type-C specification allows for up to 15 Watts of power to be transferred from DFP to UFP on the VBUS and Ground signals. This 15 Watts of power can only be transmitted at 5 Volts when a “Type-C Only” solution is used. 'Type-C PD' - When you add the USB Power Delivery specification to a “Type-C Only” system, you create a “Type-C PD” system and can raise the VBUS voltage above 5 Volts to a maximum of 20 Volts and raise the VBUS current to a maximum of 5 Amps. But I think this latter category - Type-C PD - has two sub-categories - with or without the EMCA. If the cable doesn't have an EMCA chip, it is limited to 3A (but can still go up to 20 V, and thus, has a max power of 20x3=60W). If you add the EMCA, you can now go to 5A, which means the max power is 20x5=100W. This is confirmed in this article: WHAT THE TECH? USB-C AND POWER DELIVERY EXPLAINED – Goal Zero - "Power Delivery starts at the 5V setting and is configurable up to 20V. Using a standard USB-C cable, it can handle up to 60W, and will go up to 100W using a designated EMCA cable." As bizarre as this sounds, I am 99% sure I found some cables on offer that were 60W and some that were 100W, so this would make sense! Part 2 of the document seems to have gone missing ...
  6. Steerpike
    Further, I believe even some 'micro-USB' cables can handle variable power. From my reading today, micro-USB introduced a 5th conductor (so you get Vcc, Gnd, D1, D2, and 'ID'), and that fifth conductor 'ID' was introduced to support 'USB OTG' - 'on the go' - which can also be used as a general-purpose 'signaling' conductor, used for power negotiation. Not that you need a 5th conductor, necessarily, as you can modulate communications over the Vcc / GND pair. And further complicating matters, you have non-USB standards like the Qualcom QI standards, which allow for another form of variable power delivery. Apparently QI is more widespread than USB-PD, despite being proprietary (hopefully changing now that USB-PD is getting more exposure). I've sent off some questions to a few manufacturers to see if they'll give me more info on the USB-PD stuff.
  7. Steerpike
    Good catch on the 'USB 2.0' reference. I since found this site, which is fairly comprehensive - What You Need to Know About USB Connectors and USB Cables | CUI Devices , which has a separate page just for 'power only' connectors - An Introduction to Power-Only USB Type C Connectors | CUI Devices . One thing that I'm still confused by is power 'negotiation'. My basic understanding is, the way that universal power supplies (capable of delivering a range of voltages and therefore power levels) work is that they 'negotiate' with the plugged-in device to find out what voltage they need, and then supply that voltage. This way, a device only needing 5V doesn't get blown up by a power supply capable of supplying 20V. And if no negotiation is possible ('dumb' device, inappropriate cable) then only the lowest 5V/1A is supplied. So the question is, how does this 'negotiation' occur? The new USB-C cable/connector spec includes 24 pins (detailed here), with a mix of data and power conductors (16 data, 8 power/ground) - so plenty of conductors available for 'negotiation'. But, in reading about dedicated 'power only' cables, the 'power only' article above says that a typical 100W 'power only' cable has only the 8 power/ground conductors present - pins A1, A4, A9, A12, B1, B4, B9, B12. So how does 'negotiation' occur with only the power/ground conductors? The article says "USB PD requires a digital device handshake to achieve these higher ratings. If the requisite chips are not available and the handshake does not occur, the system will revert to the 5 V/1 A standard" and "PD can also work with devices that do not transfer data, utilizing USB purely for power. It does require separate communication lines for power negotiation and therefore is slightly more complicated to design and manufacture than many non-USB formats". So how does a 100W USB-C PD charger connected by a 'Power Only' USB-C PD cable know that my laptop wants 20V / 5A, if the power supply will default to 5V/1A without digital handshaking? Perhaps the negotiation takes place over the power lines? Some further reading suggests two things; 1) there is talk of negotiation occurring on the Vcc (power) lines of the USB-C cable, and 2) there is talk of using the 'CC1' or 'CC2' pins (pins A5, B5 in USB-C connector). CC1/2 are 'configuration' channels, so that makes sense. Looking back at the 'power only' cable description above (An Introduction to Power-Only USB Type C Connectors | CUI Devices ) , they actually describe a 6-pin and an 8-pin power-only cable, with the 6-pin version using the CC1 and CC2 pins - which would thus support negotiation over CC1 and 2, but they also describe the 8-pin version that does NOT include CC1/2, but uses more power / ground conductors. I'll continue reading and update here as I make discoveries ...
  8. Steerpike
    With my new LG Gram 17, I'm thrilled to have a laptop that finally uses 'USB-C PD' for charging, opening a world of possibilities in terms of chargers and accessories. The fact that USB-C supports Video, fast charging, docking stations (with ethernet), etc is a really great development. But today, when I looked on Amazon for a new USB-C cable to use with the new 65W USB-C PD power supply (charger) I just bought ... oh my, what a confusing situation! This is the power supply I bought - Amazon.com: Anker USB C Charger, 715 Charger (Nano II 65W), GaN II PPS Fast Compact Foldable Charger ... It's GaN, and supports PD and PPS. Great! So now it's time to buy a cable for it ... It seems like you can buy all manner of USB-C cables, that will support different combinations of features. This cable, for example - Amazon.com: Anker New Nylon USB C to USB C Cable 100W 10ft, USB 2.0 Type C Charging Cable Fast Charge ... sounds great, and will charge up to 100W, supports 'fast charge', and mentions '480 mbps', but has this note tucked away at the bottom of the page - "Note: This is a data transfer and charging cable, and does not support video output". So ... how does one navigate this minefield of cable selection? Other than that note at the bottom (which I almost missed), how would I know that video output is not supported? At the moment, I have no specific need for video output, but if I were to buy a new external monitor (with USB-C), I presume I'd need a USB-C cable that was capable of carrying video ... or am I misunderstanding something here?
  9. Steerpike
    Thanks for the tip on the magnetic connectors! I just bought one and it makes life SO MUCH easier - more than I imagined! The model I got in the US was a 2-pack, but looks identical to yours - Amazon.com: USB C Magnetic Adapter, (2 Pack) Magnetic USB C Adapter, 24Pins USB3.1 10Gbps Data Transfer 4K 60Hz Video PD 100w Charge Compatible with MacBook Pro/Air USB-C Laptop : Electronics . Also, I've had my LG Gram 17 for almost 3 months now. The glossy screen is not as much of an issue as I thought it would be (being a portable device, you can always twist / wobble / angle the screen somehow to avoid the nasty reflections, at least indoors) and the screen sharpness is amazing. The 'numeric keypad' is also something I'm adapting to quite well, though I do still wish it were just a standard keyboard plus the home/end/pgup/pgdn' column (I could not live with the 'pure' standard keyboard on the XPS 17!). The trackpad is proving to be the biggest disappointment. I've turned off triple- and double-tap altogether, as well as pinch-to-zoom, but I'm still unable to get it to reliably distinguish between single tap (select) and double-tap and drag (scroll). Half the time, when scrolling a page using 'double-tap and drag', if there's a hyperlink under the cursor, I get a 'select' action rather than scroll. I've tried all the sensitivity settings to no avail. Further - why is the trackpad so BIG?! My right hand palm (base of thumb) is always touching it and making the cursor go crazy. Luckily, not much happens when I do this, but it's annoying. I did appreciate it when trackpads got bigger, but nowadays, it seems to be getting ridiculous! I think we're getting past 'optimal' sizing! The only other strange thing I can think of is the screen brightness. I've noticed it will tend to very slowly darken, and then very slowly brighten again, for no apparent reason. I can always manually tweak it using Fn+F2/F3, but the next day the same thing will happen. Not a big deal, just something to keep an eye on. I think it's time for me to open it up and install a second SSD, and move all my video / photo content over to it - making it my 'one and only' machine!
  10. Steerpike
    Perhaps a long-shot for a notebook forum, but my g/f just bought the Dell All-In-One Inspiron 27-7700 so she could have a really neat, 'no wires' look for her work area while still having a large display. It's working fine, and it does look remarkably neat I have to say. It has a 'touch screen'. Today we went to plug in her Nintendo game device into the "HDMI In" port on the back. This AIO computer has precisely TWO buttons on it - 1 for power, 1 for display. A short-press on the display button toggles the screen between external input and internal input. A 'long press' of the same button turns off the display. But I cannot figure a way to get brightness control or volume control for the display/speakers when it is switched to the external source! Dell support provide an 'on screen display driver' for this machine, which I have applied but there's no change. And they don't tell you 'how' this driver is supposed to work - does it present an on-screen-menu for touch-control of the brightness? Magically make use of the two buttons on the machine ...?
  11. Steerpike
    At my local Costco (Bay Area, CA) they were selling the 'LG Gram 16 2-in-1 Laptop' with i7-1260P processor (12th gen) for $1499.99. I took a quick look at the screen and to me, it did NOT look matt at all; very shiny! I guess this is because the '2-in-1' has a touch-screen, and touch-screens are by design hard and shiny. I was hoping to get a better feel for just now 'matt' the new 'matt' screens are, but I guess I'll need to keep waiting till they get an actual 12th gen NON-touch laptop in ... . It was also quite heavy, which I imagine is again caused by the touch screen (it was 3.26 lbs for only 16" screen, compared to just under 3.0 lbs for the 17" non-touch model).
  12. Steerpike
    Take a look at 'Event Veiwer' also; 'system' category. Many ways to run it, I use 'win+R' (to get the 'run' dialog) and enter 'eventvwr.exe'. Then open the 'windows logs' category, then the 'system' subcategory (give it a few seconds to populate). The log tends to be very 'dense', full of all manner of distractions, so in order to pinpoint the restart, I tend to search for (using the 'Find' item on the right) 6005, which is the event ID for 'Event log service was started', and is a reliable marker for where the last startup event occurred (there are plenty of other 'signatures' to find a startup, this is just one that I've learned to use). Once there, read every message that precedes it for a while, and you should see clues as to what may have happened.
  13. Steerpike
    I only had the XPS 17 for a short while, but I did some power measurements with a 'kill-a-watt' meter on the actual power draw at the wall, which I documented above in this thread. I never saw it draw more than 90 watts at the most (with the battery discharged and thus, charging), with typical consumption being no more than 10 watts for typical usage with a fully charged battery. Now, my model was an i5, with UHD+ display, while yours is i7 or i9 with a fancier display, so you will consume more, but - I would say, for casual activities while traveling you would have no problems with a 100W charger. Just install the free 'BatteryInfoView', set it to run on startup, and have it log to a file. Watch the consumption dynamically as you do things, and you'll quickly get a sense of how much power is being used. BatteryInfoView - View battery information on laptops / netbooks (nirsoft.net) Combine this info with what I posted above - no more than 58 watts consumed by the battery charging circuitry, so about 42 watts left for the CPU/display/etc.
  14. Steerpike
    I probably will! Stay tuned ...
  15. Steerpike
    I've been using Win 11 for almost a month now, and I have to say, I'm not seeing any issues other than the crappy start menu and taskbar, both of which I've fixed using 'ExplorerPatcher'. Based on what I was reading here, I was expecting ads in Explorer, and who knows what else. I use the laptop for hours every day and I even use Edge for some of my browsing (Chrome also). There's nothing I like about Win 11, so from that perspective it's a failure but I'm just not finding anything to dislike, so far. Maybe it's early days ...
  16. Steerpike
    FWIW, all those settings are in place. Also, I verified that WinRE is in place (since that message I showed above references WinRE). It just may have something to do with the fact I'm not in 'modern standby' mode (I disabled Modern Standby so I can get 'S3' standby back). But logically, to me, if the device shipped with an already-encrypted drive (that's how my Dell XPS 17 arrived), I don't think the act of turning off 'Modern Standby' would have un-encrypted the drive 'on the fly' - surely it doesn't happen instantaneously (disabling Modern Standby is simply a matter of setting a registry key and rebooting). The next logical step in my investigation would be to re-enable modern standby and see what options are available. But since I don't want it anyway, I guess I'll stop pursuing it for now; it was more a curiosity than anything.
  17. Steerpike
    I did some more testing/playing around today, but rather than clarifying anything, I'm confusing myself even more! Let me re-state my observations, this time with actual numbers and a smaller subject image, and see if I can explain it better. I also need to create a test image to start with, since 'apps' seems to take it upon themselves to resize themselves when I scale the screen. For this test, I'm first setting my scaling to 100%. So here is a 400x200 pixel image I created in photoshop (very creative ...). When I look at the image in IrfanVIew (or mspaint), it's the exact same size on the screen as it is in this post. And when I double-click the image here in the post, while in edit mode, it says the image is 400x200. All makes perfect sense so far. Now I will set my scaling to 150%. At 150% scaling, the image above is now bigger, obviously. But double-clicking it in the post still suggests 400x200 (properties), which also makes sense in some ways, but the 'properties' no longer reflect 'actual' from my (150% scaled) perspective. If I use IrfanView to resample the original image from 400x200 to 600x300, the image above matches the 600x300 version exactly. So the image in the post has been scaled up from 400x200 to 600x300, which sort-of makes sense when you ask for 150% scaling. Next, I will copy / paste that 400x200 image again into the forum (while I'm at 150% scaling): The image is the same size in the post as the original above. The image properties (double-click in the post, in edit mode) still say 400x200. When I open the image in IrfanView (or MSPaint), even though I'm scaled 'overall' to 150%, the image is presented unscaled - still only 400x200, and therefore, much smaller than what I see above in this post (I think this is something unique to image editors). So this all makes perfect sense, and does not match the behavior I saw yesterday with the screenshots ... so I'm more confused now than before! UPDATE - I think the reason for the different behaviors yesterday and today is that yesterday, I was using 'Alt-Prt-Scrn' to copy something from the screen, whereas today I'm using 'edit / copy' within an image editor to get the image. My guess is, 'edit/copy' within an image editor is intentionally ignoring any 'scale' settings; it is faithfully retaining the dimensions of the image. Alt-Prt-Scrn is just grabbing whatever it sees on the screen, reflecting its 'actual' (scaled) appearance.
  18. Steerpike
    I woke up this morning to 6 or 7 notifications; so I think things are back to the way they should be. The functionality you describe as being 'great' seems to be what's happening now. So I think some momentary glitch occurred that simply cleared all my 'follow' flags.
  19. Steerpike
    Perhaps try ExplorerPatcher - GitHub - valinet/ExplorerPatcher: This project aims to enhance the working environment on Windows - it basically allows you to restore many windows 10 features/settings. It's free, and has been working well for me so far. No frills.
  20. Steerpike
    I've just set scaling to 100% on my laptop (it was at 150%). My laptop screen is 2560 x 1600, so setting the scale to 100% renders it virtually unusable for me, as my eyesight isn't that great, but I can just about read what I'm typing here and will leave it this way just for this reply. There's definitely something going on with how 'scaling' affects images. When I launch the same LG Control Center now (compared to before, as reported in my previous response), and use alt-print-screen, and then paste it into IrfanView, the image is now about 770 x 492 (before it was 1154 x 740). (I say 'about' because alt-prt-scrn is capturing a bit of the background now, some new weird behavior I'm seeing due to windows 11 it seems, so I crop it ever-so-slightly - but it's only a few pixels). And when I paste it into this thread ... It is IDENTICAL in size to how the 'actual application' is displaying on my screen. By this, I mean - I can alt-tab to the LG Control Center app, and align it with the image in tis post, and one sits on top of the other exactly. Previously, when scaling was at 150%, the LG Control Center was bigger (took up a larger percentage of the screen), but the version that got pasted in the thread was 'even bigger'. I'll switch back to 150% scaling and do some more testing, after posting this. =============== Edit - I just set scaling back to 150% (phew, I was getting a headache trying to work at 100%!). The image pasted above, while I was at 100%, has now grown in size (obviously, it has scaled up). And when I now bring the actual LG Control Center app to the front, and align it, it still matches exactly what is pasted above. BUT - if I do a new 'copy / paste' of that same image, it is bigger: And looks less crisp due to be 'overly upscaled'. The image on the clipboard, as viewed in IrfanView, reflects the smaller of the two. So here's what seems to be happening (this is very confusing!) - when scaling is 100%, everything works as expected; an image on screen that is copy/pasted lands in the thread 'as expected' - visually matches the original. But when scaling is 150%, an image on screen (which is obviously somewhat bigger now since that's what scaling is meant to do - make things bigger) that is copy/pasted lands in the thread 'even bigger' - visually ends up bigger than the image it came from. The problem seems to be occurring somewhere between the clipboard and the 'paste' action into the forum, since the clipboard version (as seen with IrfanView) reflects the 'actual on-screen' image. Trying to state this another way: Case 1 - scaling 100% Image on-screen is 'small'; Image pasted to clipboard is 'small'; image pasted to forum is 'small' - they all match. Case 2 - scaling 150% Image on-screen is 'medium'; image pasted to clipboard is 'medium'; image pasted to forum is 'big' - the forum version is bigger than the on-screen and clipboard versions. I suspect this is not anything the forum software can control. And since it's only affecting those of us who scale, I'm perfectly happy to keep doing what I've been doing for a while - resampling my screen captures so they don't appear so large before pasting into the forum.
  21. Steerpike
    This is a possible 'bug' or 'issue' report for the forum; I don't see any obvious place to post it, so I'm putting it here in Suggestions as the closest place I could find. Sorry if it's the wrong place. All of a sudden, a few days ago, I stopped getting notifications when people replied to threads I had participated in. I checked a few things; first, I made sure my profile was set to receive notifications (not emails). And when I go to the 'notification' (bell) icon, I see notifications for old threads, but nothing new. Now, as I'm composing this reply, I see a button below 'Follow topic', and it's off. I have just turned it on for this reply, so we'll see what happens. But looking at other threads in general, I see no way to view/modify the 'follow' setting (other than, I presume, by actually creating a new reply). So the problem may be not so much that 'notifications' are not working, but rather, the 'follow' feature/setting has been turned off across the board? EDIT - I now see that at the top of every thread, once opened, is a little 'follow' / 'following' indicator. It was off for all my threads (threads I've participated in). I'm going through now, turning it back on for threads I care about. It would seem that somehow, all my threads got reset for some reason.
  22. Steerpike
    I have a Samsung S10+, an upgrade from the S6 and S7 before it. Before that, a long string of iPhones (I still have an iPhone 6 that I keep for troubleshooting purposes). I may try a Google Pixel next. Overall, I'm steering clear of iPhones because I like having three menu 'buttons', and I like having 'live' information like weather display on the main screen, as well as having the 'always on' clock display. Oh, and I still use the headphone jack! I do miss the mechanical 'mute' button, though, that seems unique to the iPhone family. I love the long battery life, and big screen. I find the curved edges to be 'faddy'; I really don't know why they bother. I love the 'Your Timeline' Google feature (available on any Android phone, I presume). A recent update seems to have FINALLY made the fingerprint sensor work decently, and oh boy, what a great enhancement that is - a great alternative to face recognition (which suddenly became problematic during Covid!).
  23. Steerpike
    I've had the exact same observation - smaller screenshots appear to be upsized, causing them to look blurry, and occupy far too much physical space in the post. Unlike you (@John Ratsey), I'd prefer to keep them as embedded, 'in-line' images and not thumbnails, if possible. I do know that, when I post screen shots in outlook emails, the 'DPI' setting of the image (as opposed to, or in addition to, the resolution) has a significant impact on the appearance of the image in the body of the email. Don't know if this forum software is also being influenced by this. Here's a screen shot of the LG Control Center', captured using alt-Prt-scrn, then pasted into IrfanView for further manipulation: Image is 1154 x 740 pixels, 180 DPI (as reported by IrfanVIew). It looks 'big' here in the forum, to me, compared to the original app on my screen, and therefore less sharp. If I resample it down to 600 x 385 in IrfanView, still 180 DPI, it changes to this: Now, this is appearing smaller in the post than it is on my screen, but I put that down to the effects of High-DPI scaling as performed by Windows. This is certainly 'reasonable', and strikes me as quite appropriate. It just means I have to paste everything into IrfanView first, resample it (down), then paste here (which I do most times anyway, just to crop out useless info). Next, I tried pasting the first image above (the bigger one) and then changing its properties in the forum itself, by double-clicking on it ... (I just read the last post that gives that tip). It looked identical to the image above (also 600 x ...) so no need to paste it here. So here is another screen shot, this time, one that is originally well below 1000 pixels wide ... The original was 730 x 542, but pasting it here makes it look much bigger (and therefore, a bit 'blurry'/less sharp). If I double-click it in the forum post, I see that it has properties as follows: 730 x 542 - same as the original. So that doesn't explain why it's looking so much bigger here in the forum. If I paste it a second time, and then set properties to 600 x ... in the forum, it looks like this: My conclusion is - the forum seems to be resizing 'bigger' images (>1000 pixels) to 1000 pixels; it does not appear to be resizing images that are less than 1000 pixels wide, BUT - some 'other' feature is causing smaller images (< 1000 pixels wide?) to appear significantly bigger. But I suspect this has everything to do with a) my native screen resolution (2560 x 1600) and b) my 'windows scaling factor' (currently 150%). I think in-line graphics are still better than thumbnails, but perhaps we can have a choice? (NOTE - this is meant to be the end of the post; but an image of the LG Control Center keeps appearing at the end of the post, as viewed by me. I keep 'editing' the post, and deleting it, but it just re-appears each time). So the image that may be immediately below this text is bogus and should not be here ....
  24. Steerpike
    The 'elevenforum' article says this: "Device encryption is available on devices (ex: tablet or 2-in1) that support Modern Standby and running any Windows 11 edition. If you want to use standard BitLocker encryption instead, it's only available on supported devices running Windows 11 Pro, Enterprise, or Education. Some devices have both types of encryption." which means, it's available on windows 11 home. This article says "The BitLocker security feature is available on Windows 11 Pro, Enterprise, and Education editions. However, on Windows 11 Home, you can use "device encryption," a limited version of BitLocker. It works identical to the full version but without many of the advanced management settings and capabilities, such as "BitLocker To Go. ..."" So this suggests there should be 'something' available in win 11, but it's not available on the LG Gram for some reason. Since I don't want it (I was looking to disable it), this is not a big issue I'm just curious to understand why it's not there. Perhaps the SSD doesn't support it. This Asus article explains how to view status information on the feature - Run 'System Information' as an administrator, then scroll down to 'Device Encryption Support'. On my system, it says (I can't figure out how to copy the text of that message!). It says Reasons for "Failed automatic device encryption: Hardware Security test interface failed and device not modern standby, un-allowed DMA-capable bus/device(s) detected, Disabled by policy, WinRE is not configured"
  25. Steerpike
    Question about device encryption on the LG Gram 17 2021 edition. I recently purchased a 2021 Dell XPS 17, and returned it for various reasons. During my brief relationship with the XPS 17, I discovered that even though it had only Win 11 HOME (which does not include bitlocker encryption), it still had an encrypted C:\ drive. This forum article describes the situation in detail - Turn On or Off Device Encryption in Windows 11 Tutorial | Windows 11 Forum (elevenforum.com) . Once I found that article, I disabled device encryption on my XPS 17. I replaced the XPS 17 with a 2021 LG Gram 17, and today I went to turn off device encryption on it also, but to my surprise, there is no 'Device Encryption' entry in the Settings area. Here's the example given by elevenforums showing Device Encryption: And here's the corresponding screen on my system: Now, I really don't WANT device encryption on the C:\ drive, but still - I'm curious to understand why it's not even offered as an option, given that it WAS an option on the XPS, and is clearly shown in the elevenforums article. Any thoughts? Edit To Add - I note the ElevenForum article says your system has to support Modern Standby in order for this to be available. Well, my system certainly supports Modern Standby, but - I have disabled it so I can get back S3 sleep, so I wonder if that's what took the option away? But if that's the case, is my drive still encrypted ... ? My XPS 17 system was encrypted on arrival, which surprised and concerned me. I only found out when I had a Dell tech come to my home to replace the motherboard!
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