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Steerpike

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  1. Steerpike
    This article suggests it's on by default in some Win 10 releases, off in others (and on for new installs), but I can't find any article that talks about the default for win 11. Could it be that, just like with windows 10 (per the article), it's off in some releases, on in others? FWIW, the laptop in question is my LG Gram 17; I sent the XPS 17 back to Dell. But regardless, the article suggests its only relevant to hypervisor environments, which sounds a far cry from Photoshop Elements! I really wish I'd noted down the exact message now; it did show an item, but I don't recall what it was now. I'm very tempted to re-do the whole procedure now, but ... we shall see how PE 2022 fares ... After a whole day of searching, I did find a fix that worked. The trick is, in PE, to go to 'Edit / Preferences / Display and Cursors', then in the High Density Displays section, set 'UI scale factor' to 'small - 100%'. Then, in File Explorer, go to the program files location for the editor itself - "c:\Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 2022" and locate the file ‘PhotoshopElementsEditor.exe’. right click, choose properties, and then the 'compatibility' tab. There, click 'Change High DPI Settings', and then finally, in the 'High DPI Scaling Override' section, choose 'override ...' and then choose 'System (Enhanced)'. The combination of these things finally resulted in 'normal' looking menus, and other elements within the program. It's important not to make the mistake I made at first; be sure to adjust the properties of the executable "PhotoshopElementsEditor.exe" in the 'root' program files folder, and not the executable "Adobe Photoshop Elements 2022.exe" in the sub-folder "C:\Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 2022\Elements Home". I used to be passionate about editing my pictures using Photoshop (and later Photoshop Elements) but now, I hardly ever touch them. Maybe having spent all this effort on getting PE to display correctly I'll be inspired to get back into photo editing!
  2. Steerpike
    I have an old version of Adobe Photoshop Elements - version 14. Does the job for me so didn't want to upgrade, and it works fine on my Windows 10 daily driver. I tried to install it on my new LG Gram 17 / Win 11, and after the installation completed, I launched the program and got an error saying the application could not run - "A driver can't load on this device" (a driver was mentioned but sadly I didn't write it down). A bit of research suggests - "You are receiving this message because the Memory integrity setting in Windows Security is preventing a driver from loading on your device". Article tells you how you can turn off Memory Integrity, but also warns of possible dire consequences. My normal instinct would be to ahead, and turn off the setting, but I did a bit more searching and came across several reports of people bricking their systems due to installing older versions of Adobe Photoshop Elements on Win 11, like this one. Since I'm new to this system, and haven't yet had to deal with backups, restores, I decided not to risk it and purchased a new copy of PE (2022 version). Have others successfully installed older versions of PE on Win 11? Also, I have to say, Adobe STILL can't seem to get high DPI scaling to work properly on Windows! My system has a native resolution of 2560x1600, and I'm scaling it at 175% (my eyesight is not great). Every app so far has dealt with this decently; everything simply looks 'normal'. But Adobe Photoshop Elements shows huge menu entries; this is how it compares with Notepad: They offer a setting specifically for 'High Density' displays (as they call them), and if I choose the only other alternative, I get this (3rd set of menus on the right): The entries in the drop-down are actually quite reasonably sized, but the main menu row at the top (File/Edit/Image/etc) is virtually unreadable. And as you get into using the tools within PE, many of the dialogs have text that is almost unreadable. So you either have to have monster text that takes up way too much room, or miniscule text that can hardly be read! This is 2022, and high DPI displays have been around for years now; I can't believe a mainstream company like Adobe is still not dealing well with it.
  3. Steerpike
    I just recently became aware of this, and assumed it was a new win 11 feature, but it is actually in win 10 also. I find it really useful! Mentioning it here in case anyone hasn't heard of it. Basically, windows now restarts any app that was running previously, across a restart (if you enable the feature for that app). The app has to be capable of it, and I don't know how many apps do or don't support it, but I've been pleasantly surprised to find that notepad supports it, as well as IrfanView, Excel, and more. Excel and notepad will re-launch after a restart with the same files it had open previously (that's what makes it useful!). I used to dread system restarts, as I would have to close all my files then re-open them afterwards. Now, I can just leave everything 'as is' and all my files will be there after a restart. To turn this on, go to settings / Accounts / Sign-in Options, and enable 'Automatically save my restartable apps and restart them when I sign back in'. Then, for each app you want to have this behavior, right click the app's executable and choose 'properties', then the 'compatibility' tab, and check 'Register this program for restart'. Oddly, you cannot control this behavior in the more obvious location - Settings / Apps / Apps & Features ... (which is where I was initially looking). Also, you have to locate the executable itself, which means, right-clicking the entry in the start menu, and choosing more / open file location, which is annoying.
  4. Steerpike
    That's certainly better than the three-finger ctrl-shift-tab! But for me, 'alt-tab' simply means, go to the last window', and remembering that a browser tab is not a 'window' in this context just wouldn't register, plus, you have to keep track of 'direction' - are you going 'backwards' or 'forwards'; alt-tab always toggles between the most recent two, so you don't have to think. The great thing about your approach is, it also works in excel to switch between tabs, and I do find myself occasionally switching back and forth between excel tabs.
  5. Steerpike
    Thanks for that; I was aware of Ctrl-Tab/Ctrl-shift-tab, but - as trivial as it may sound, the thing that makes 'alt-tab' so appealing is that it toggles back and forth between last two active windows, whereas ctrl-tab only ever 'steps forward' through the tab list (and ctrl-shift-tab only ever 'steps backwards') - so to do the equivalent of 'alt-tab' (twice), you have to do 'ctrl-tab' and 'ctrl-shift-tab', which is just not something I can build into my workflow. I use alt-tab a lot when composing messages, if I'm referring to a web page or whatever. My remedy, FWIW, is to 'detach' the second tab from Chrome, so it's a separate window. That is - by default, I have one instance of Chrome, with many tabs open. But you can click-and-drag on a tab, and 'pull it off' the tab row, and when you let go, it becomes its own window. Now, you can alt-tab between it and the 'current' tab. When I'm done with my editing, I can 'put back' the tab into the main instance of Chrome.
  6. Steerpike
    Not sure if the correct name is 'task switcher' or 'window switcher' (I've seen both) but basically, it's what you get when you hit 'Alt-Tab'. I've been using it as long as I can remember to switch between active tasks (windows) and love it. Recently, Microsoft Edge 'tabs' have started showing up as separate entries in the 'switcher' view, so you can use 'alt-tab' to toggle between different tabs in Edge. This is available in windows 10 and 11. I find this amazingly useful, to the point where I'm actually considering using Edge over Chrome as my default browser. By default, only the most recent 5 tabs show up, but this can be changed in windows 11 'settings' - System / Multitasking. I presume there is no way to add Chrome tabs to this behavior ... I'm constantly using Alt-Tab now to switch between tabs in Chrome, of course without any success!
  7. Steerpike
    Interesting unit indeed! I was really just noting down the values presented in BIV for 'Current Capacity Value', and my original 'write-up' just said 'units', but then I thought that was a bit lame so referred to the actual units, which are mWh. But then I realized, how odd it is to refer to a unit with 'hours' in the name, and then say 'per minute'. I'm an electrical engineer by training, and I spent an hour messing around with this trying to re-state the units, but it was one of those situations where I just couldn't get my head around it! In general, in the physical world, it's more typical to refer to 'capacities' as volumes ("a gallon of gas"), and indeed, another way to refer to energy capacity is in terms of 'joules', but for some reason we do tend to talk of electrical energy in terms of kWh - basically, "how much energy capacity will deliver 'x' kW for an hour" - a somewhat strange way of looking at it, but nonetheless one that is rooted in our society. SO - if I may - how do you 'convert' 100mWh/min to 6W? I agree with the number, I just couldn't find an obvious way to write that down as a formula! (that is - how do you say, "100 * x / y = 6"?). And again, this just a weird mental block that I couldn't get around; something about 'per hour' vs 'for an hour' I think! My battery capacity is showing as 77,020, and I had no charge cycles when I first started (battery health = 96.3%). Indications are, my unit was built in November 2021, so it's been sitting around for 5 months - may or may not be relevant. I too am now running the battery down to below 80% so I can turn on the battery saver feature. But - take a look at this. I happened to spot this in the BIV log just now, for this morning's 'session'. Notice how, for the period 9:43 to 9:54 (11 minutes), the battery is discharging, and actual energy is being consumed as shown in the 'Rate' column, but yet the 'Capacity' is stuck at 77,020 - which is the 'max capacity' I just mentioned, as presented by BIV. This does not make sense - the 'Capacity' value should be dropping by a certain amount each minute. If you assume about 110 mWh per minute, times 11 minutes, that's 1,210 - which added to 77,020 would give you 78,230 - closer to the 'design capacity'. Not a big deal, just something I noticed!
  8. Steerpike
    I've done some testing of 'hibernate', 'Classic S3 Sleep', and 'Modern Standby (S0)' over the past few days, using BatteryInfoView (BIV) for readings and the event log for exact times of state transitions. First, I did several 'hibernate' tests, with both manual hibernate actions (initiate hibernate from the start menu) and timed hibernate actions (using 'hibernate after ...' setting in advanced power options). In all cases, over several hours each, consumption during the hibernate period was effectively zero (what consumption I did read was probably due to the fact that I was only logging battery level at 1-minute intervals). Next, I did a test of 'Classic S3 Sleep'. I 'slept' the computer from the start menu, and let it sit for 4hr 52mn (292 mins). The battery dropped by 1,120 mWh. So that's 3.8 mWh per minute. Next, I did a test of 'Modern Standby (S0)'. I 'slept' the computer from the start menu (having switched it to modern standby mode) for 6hr 57mn (417 mins). The battery dropped by 2,200 mWh. So that's 5.2 mWh per minute. This is quite a bit more than 'classic sleep', and is what you would expect, knowing how 'modern standby' keeps the system more active. Next, I did a test of 'simple idle'; in this case, I turned off 'modern standby' mode, and set the 'sleep after...' timers to a high value so it would not go into sleep mode. I used the event log to tell me exactly when the monitor went dark. Note that for this test, I did have outlook, chrome, edge, whatsapp, and more running, so it's not a very scientific test (I should see lower numbers if these apps are not running, obviously). I left it idle for 78 minutes, and during this time, battery level dropped by 700 mWh. So that's 9 mWh per minute. Finally, I will note that I'm seeing the 'capacity' drop by about 100 mWh per minute when the computer is in active (but light) use - screen on, same apps as above running, etc. This again is very unscientific, but gives a comparative value for the various standby and idle readings.
  9. Steerpike
    Have Microsoft given any justification for the complete lack of control over the 'Start' menu - inability to group, inability to control placement, etc? I don't expect to be wowed by their explanation, just curious if they have one! I'm finding Windows 11 to be fairly tolerable so far, but I'm only using it for one or two mainstream activities; once I start installing all my old utilities and tools, I will go crazy with the launch process. I'm aware of 'startisback', and 'ExplorerPatch', both of which aim to restore decent 'start menu' behavior. Has anyone compared the two? I installed ExplorerPatch briefly and it seemed to have promise. I'm guessing 'startisback' is smoother.
  10. Steerpike
    I just did a basic test, manually/explicitly putting the laptop into hibernate from the start menu. After 6 hours, there was ZERO change in battery level (as reported by BIV) so at least that is working! I'm now doing a second test to see if the hibernate that is triggered by 'hibernate after ...' (which is 'working' in 'modern standby' mode) is somehow different. I'll leave it off for a good 5 or so hours to get a good test period. To answer your question, no, I have nothing connected to the laptop. Regarding the LG 'extend battery life' option; may or may not be relevant, but I recall reading somewhere (maybe even in this forum/thread!) that there's a bug along the lines of, if you enable the feature when the battery is already above 80%, things behave differently compared to if the battery was below 80% at the time of the setting.
  11. Steerpike
    I've been fussing with this for several hours now. If I enable 'Modern Standby' (S0) then the auto-transition to hibernate ('hibernate after ...') works. But if I enable classic sleep (S3) then I cannot get 'hibernate after ...' to work at all. Hibernate on demand is working in both modes (ie, choose hibernate from start menu, power option). I've toggled back and forth a few times and the problem is persistent. I also disabled 'fast start' as part of my troubleshooting, no change. I have read, a while back now, that there are a few variations on the 'hiberfile.sys' characteristics; there's a smaller version that supports 'fast start', and a larger version that supports full hibernate / recovery. But I haven't had a chance to dig back into that aspect. But I did delete the hiberfile.sys and let it get re-created, in case it was latching onto the 'wrong' kind for some reason. Interestingly, when I tried to delete hiberfile.sys, it was giving me a 'file in use' error. I finally got rid of it using "powercfg /hibernate off". I'm with you on the risk associated with assuming the transition to hibernation succeeds (and generally assuming 'S3 sleep' works); more than once, with my old Samsung, I would open my backpack to find my laptop super-hot, thanks to something waking the laptop while it was in lid-close / S3 sleep. I could never track down why, so chose to manually hibernate. At this point, it seems I have two choices - 'Modern Standby' with 'hibernate after ...' working, or 'Classic Sleep' without 'hibernate after...'. Since there's nothing about 'modern standby' that I like, I guess I'll go with 'classic sleep', and manually go to hibernate when I travel. The one remaining mystery seems to be - when I DID hibernate, the other day, power still dropped significantly. So I will do some testing on that today. I still need to figure out why I'm consuming 6-9 watts when doing next-to-nothing on the machine!
  12. Steerpike
    Do you consider the 'Amazon' brand to be 'better known'? I've never really understood how Amazon's branding works. I assumed Amazon were just approaching some manufacturers and paying them to make 'branded' versions for them; some manufacturers being better than others in this context. I have bought clothing that is 'Amazon' branded; they really do brand a wide variety of stuff! FYI, the charger above showed as "This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location." - but when I changed delivery to my Arizona address, it was just fine! My default location is currently California. I believe California has imposed new environmental restrictions on numerous items, and Amazon is either not willing or not able to ship within CA. However, further digging suggests a bug in Amazon's system, and that clearing out / re-defining your 'default' address can fix it. Just thought I'd mention this, as it's not JUST related to UK vs US issues!
  13. Steerpike
    Ctrl-Alt-Shift-F7 worked like a charm! Thanks for that. In task manager, I see typically 1% when nothing is going on. I am also seeing about 6-7W power consumption in BIV (BatteryInfoView). I currently have display brightness at 52, and I've set 'max processor state' for battery at 70% (was playing with this for other reasons). Looking back at the log from last night, this jumped out at me: The battery was at 90% when I stopped using it (and it went to 'modern standby' and then to 'hibernate'), and it was only 61% when I woke the system up from hibernate this morning. So this would suggest 'hibernate' was not doing it's thing at all! I looked in the Event Viewer and there was no indication of anything happening between the two milestones - the computer didn't wake and do stuff. So this is another mystery I will need to pursue. Yet another question for you in dealing with the log - how are you manipulating that first column (time/date) in excel, to get it to be treated as a time/date field? The raw data in the log is in this format: And excel clearly 'knows' this is date/time, because it's displaying as: but when I try to use that column as a graph 'x' axis, it stacks all the data into one time slot. I used to be very comfortable with this stuff in excel but it's been a while! I can fudge it by parsing out the date portion (leaving just the time, using 'text to columns' function), which works fine until I want to chart > 24 hours!
  14. Steerpike
    So - based on this article, kindly referred by @rs4 - Windows 10 V2004: Can't deactivate ‘Modern Standby’ | Born's Tech and Windows World (borncity.com) . I made the following change to the registry on my Win 11 home 2021 LG Gram 17 - HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power Enter the 32-bit DWORD value PlatformAoAcOverride and set it to 0. The change 'worked', in that 'powercfg /a' now shows I have S3 (and no longer have S0). It also says I have hibernate: The following sleep states are available on this system: Standby (S3) Hibernate Fast Startup The following sleep states are not available on this system: Standby (S1) The system firmware does not support this standby state. Standby (S2) The system firmware does not support this standby state. Standby (S0 Low Power Idle) The system firmware does not support this standby state. Hybrid Sleep The hypervisor does not support this standby state. I also tested, and verified S3 is working (and is logged by BatteryInfoView). BUT - "hibernate after..." is no longer working! I tested it before making the change, and the system hibernated on schedule (after the stated idle time), but now, the system goes to sleep according to "sleep after ..." but does not go to hibernate. Hibernate does work from the start menu - I can put the system directly into hibernate state. So I have more work to do here, troubleshooting this.
  15. Steerpike
    I just read the first thread posted in the NBR thread - Windows 10 V2004: Can't deactivate ‘Modern Standby’ | Born's Tech and Windows World (borncity.com) . It sounds like, in win 10, MS first did, then did not, allow Modern Standby (S0) to be disabled in the registry, but finally re-allowed it by the following settings: HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power Enter the 32-bit DWORD value PlatformAoAcOverride and set it to 0. Since I'm on Win 11, any thoughts on whether this will work for me? I will try it and report back .... rebooting now ... Edit To Add - seems to have worked like a charm! I read the reddit thread a few months ago when I bought the Dell XPS17 with win 11, and the indications were that Dell had removed firmware support for S3 standby, and trying to enable it could cause instability. So I've set some very aggressive timers for screen off, sleep, and hibernate - let's see how it behaves! Edit To Add (#2) - I set screen off at 3 mins, sleep at 5 mins, and hibernate at 10 mins. The screen darkened at 3, the system went to sleep at 5 mins, BUT - hibernate did not kick in at all. The system stayed in sleep for 17 mins. The good news is, BatteryInfoView did record the standby / resume activities :). Event Viewer confirmed no transition to hibernate. I'll do a full reboot and see if the hibernate timer gets picked up. (I've read the reddit thread before, but it's rather long and tortured at this point).
  16. Steerpike
    Some quick questions and comments as I work my way through this ... Were you able to change the display in batteryinfoview to Watts, or did you do that outside of the tool? And what tool are you using to create the graphs - excel? I killed Edge and Chrome (I too have >50 tabs open, typically). I set display brightness to 60. Task manager indicates nothing else of significance running. I paused OneDrive to stop it from checking for changes. I'm still not getting below 6W. There are two things on my laptop that suggest an LG-specific config - one is, I had 'LG Control Center', 'LG Update Center', and 'Virtoo by LG' pinned to the taskbar on initial run, and secondly ,a boat-load of McAfee crap showing in Task Manager that I haven't even got around to getting rid of yet ... Look at all this crap! The quick way to check your 'standby' config is to open a command prompt and type 'powercfg /a' This is what I get: The following sleep states are available on this system: Standby (S0 Low Power Idle) Network Connected Hibernate Fast Startup The following sleep states are not available on this system: Standby (S1) The system firmware does not support this standby state. This standby state is disabled when S0 low power idle is supported. Standby (S2) The system firmware does not support this standby state. This standby state is disabled when S0 low power idle is supported. Standby (S3) This standby state is disabled when S0 low power idle is supported. Hybrid Sleep Standby (S3) is not available. The hypervisor does not support this standby state. I haven't yet ventured into the BIOS to see what options I can change. I remember reading that Dell had completely removed S3 / standby support from its firmware, and I'd assumed LG did the same but don't know. I'll take a look in the BIOS. EDIT TO ADD: I looked in the Bios for the first time just now; wow - what a sparse BIOS! NOTHING relating to standby configs, or much else for that matter. I read there is an 'advanced' view accessed by Ctrl-Alt-F7, but that didn't work for me. Am I doing something wrong? I would also note, Windows has a pretty decent battery report of its own - type powercfg /batteryreport at the command prompt and you'll get a pretty decent report. There are a LOT of reports available through powercfg, actually - worth a browse. I will explore ThrottleStop next ... Wow, that download site 'mediafire' is a sneaky one - threw all kinds of stuff at me! Nice little utility though!
  17. Steerpike
    I've used BatteryInfoView in the past; great utility. I just grabbed the latest version and let it run for a while. I'll do some analysis tomorrow when I have more data, but I do have a few quick questions that you may be able to help with. First of all, I installed it, turned on logging to a file, and went out for dinner. On return, laptop was in hibernate (I have it set to hibernate after 60 mins). I specifically turned on the feature to log suspend/resume events, but there are no such events in the log. I checked event viewer to confirm hibernate did occur. Looking more closely at this, I'm guessing the problem here is, a) 'modern standby' is not recognized by batteryinfoview, and b) batteryinfoview doesn't claim to log 'hibernate' events. But regardless, I can 'infer' the hibernate by the total lack of entries in the log. Here's a quick sample from the log: Group 1 covers about 5 minutes, before 'modern standby' occurred. 'rate' was roughly 8,000 (8 Watts, I presume). Group 2 covers about an hour, presumably 'modern standby', before hibernate kicked in. Note how events are logged every 10-20 minutes (very randomly), even though it's supposed to log every minute; I presume this is related to how 'modern standby' handles the processor. During this period, 'rate' is around 250. There is a time gap between Group 2 and Group 3 (19:29 to 21:22, almost 2 hours - the time the laptop spent in hibernate). Group 3 represents the period when I got back from dinner and resumed from hibernate. 'rate' is in the range of 6,000 to 15,000 during this period (6 to 15 Watts, I presume). The 'crazy' rate I've circled in red at 21:22 is presumably some weird result of the laptop having been hibernated for 2 hours, but I can't really make sense of it. Right now, as I've been typing this and doing nothing else but flipping back and forth between the browser and the screen shot, I'm seeing about 7 to 9 watts consumption. I did lower the display brightness to '46' along the way as the room got darker. So that's a fair way from your 'no more than 6W' metric! Task manager reveals nothing much going on, other than Chrome and Edge (I'm currently using Chrome and Edge concurrently for various reasons). Looks like I have more digging to do!
  18. Steerpike
    This is my 2021 LG Gram 17 screen; every morning I have bright sunlight behind me (sucks to be in California) and I have to maneuver my screen and my head to try to avoid it! Can't wait to see the new anti-reflective coating!
  19. Steerpike
    Your link above (to Amazon.co.uk) is showing me 'currently unavailable' but I found it on the US amazon site Amazon.com: Anker USB C Charger, 543 Charger (65W II), PIQ 3.0 & GaN 4-Port Slim Fast Wall Charger, with Dual USB C Ports (45W Max), for MacBook, USB C Laptops, iPad Pro, iPhone and More : Cell Phones & Accessories . From what I read at that page, it seems like it only delivers 45W max on a single port (the '65W' is the combined power over multiple ports). I see no mention of weight. This is a device I'm looking at for the LG Gram - ZMI zPower Turbo 65W USB-C PD Laptop Charger - it claims to deliver 65W on its one and only output port, and advertises a weight of only 3.42 oz (97g).
  20. Steerpike
    No one else has mentioned it but I'm intrigued by the 'Gram+View' package mentioned in one of the reviews. Seems like they are releasing a companion 2nd screen, presumably the same resolution as the main screen, connected through USB-C. I've just sold my house and technology wise, I'm camping out on my g/f's dining table with no possibility of hooking up an external monitor. Having a portable 2nd screen like this would be absolutely ideal for me! I've bought some older USB-powered 2nd screens in the past but they were lower resolution and/or smaller in size. So having a 17" identical resolution 2nd screen would be huge for me!
  21. Steerpike
    No, I didn't realize the pricing was clear-out pricing - I just assumed it was Costco being Costco :). But of course it makes sense now. I have no desire whatsoever for a dedicated GPU (less battery life, more weight, more likelihood of fan noise, etc), so if I do get the 2022 (Q) model it will have to be without the Nvidia. I'm 'coping' with the glossy screen so far, but I have always preferred 'matt' type screens and will gladly sacrifice a bit of sharpness if necessary. My main two issues now with the model are the touchpad and the battery. The touchpad is driving me crazy. I've tried all sensitivity levels to no avail. I've now disabled 'two-finger tap for right click', in addition to the earlier disable of the 'two finger pinch to zoom', and that's helping but now, my two-finger scroll attempts are often getting mis-interpreted as 'single-click and drag' (select) actions! But I'm trying hard to be really precise with my touches. I'm still exploring the battery issue. Regarding 'does the 17Z95P come with Win 11 pre-installed' - my simple answer would be yes, because I never saw any Win 10 elements, but - it was a different experience from the Dell XPS 17 I bought in Feb; With this LG, the OOBE (Out of box experience) included a lengthy 'update' download that might just have been an update to Win11, though I wasn't taking notes at the time. It was certainly Windows 11 by the end of the process and I had no control over it, but I wonder if it was win 10 with an immediate upgrade. Thanks for the link to the 2022 model thread! I'm very excited by the possibilities of USB PD; having universal power supplies has been a long goal of mine. And the idea of being able to keep the laptop 'limping along' with a phone charger is also cool.
  22. Steerpike
    Ah, so maybe that explains why I got my LG Gram 17 for such a great price ($1,100 at Costco) - it is last year's model. I presume the 'Q' denotes the new generation? I just did a quick search, very little info out there on the Q models; I did find some info suggesting the 17Z90Q has an NVidia graphics chip, anti-glare, etc. I wonder if I should return my just-purchased 17Z95P to Costco within the 90-day window and wait for the 2022 model, since I would really like to get an anti-glare screen. Edit To Add - I just looked at the LG website (which for me, being a US resident, redirects to a US-specific page - LG Laptops: 4K, Gaming & 2-in-1 Laptops | LG USA ) and I don't see any 'Q' models at all. Also, I see some 'P' and 'N' models with 11th gen Intel processors, so my guess that 'Q' was 2022-specific may not be quite accurate. This is a site that talks about the 2022 models you referred to - LG unveils Gram 16 and 17 with 12th gen Intel CPUs and NVIDIA RTX 2050 | Pocketnow . There it says "... It’s not clear when the new devices will become available in North America, but LG often unveils its devices in the US one month after the unveiling." I just plugged my a Samsung 9V, 1.67A (15W) non-USB PD charger into the LG, but a pop-up said "Cannot charge the system with the auxiliary power supply connected. Connect a USB PD power supply of 10W or more". Interesting that it will go as low as 10W! I then tried with my g/f's USB-PD charger, with great optimism - it's described as USB Type-C PD charger 20W; It offers 5V/3A; 9V/2.2A; and 12V/1.5A (so obviously over 10W!) but I got the same pop-up warning. However - I was using a USB-A to USB-C cable, so that may be a factor. I can't seem to find any USB-C to USB-C cables in my home!
  23. Steerpike
    @John Ratsey said his LG Gram was model 17Z90P; mine is model 17Z95P. Do you think the 95 vs 90 denotes 2022 vs 2021 model? I haven't found any way to decode the LG model numbers, yet. Interesting to see that you can get away with even an 18W PSU! I presume that PSU is still putting out 20V, though? That is - an old phone charger that doesn't output 20V would not work?
  24. Steerpike
    @John Ratsey - would you happen to know, will a SATA SSD (M.2 2280) work in the M.2 slot in the LG? I've read that SOME laptops' M.2 socket can support both (NVMe and SATA). OBVIOUSLY, the NVMe is going to be much faster, but - for 'bulk storage', I'm considering moving my 2 TB SATA SSD from my Samsung to the LG. EDIT TO ADD: I just googled for the manual for my model. My model is 17Z95P-K.AAE8UI . I was able to find a page on LG's site (Product Manuals & Documents| LG USA Support ) for 17Z95P-K.AAB8UI, which is pretty close. I downloaded both manuals from the page. One manual says this: Storage Device SATA or NVMe™ SSD (M.2 2280) SATA-type SSD is supported only through an expansion slot This seems rather contradictory - "SATA or NVMe SSD (M.2 2280)" strongly suggests SATA is supported using the M.2 slot, but then "SATA-type SSD is supported only through an expansion slot" totally contradicts that!
  25. Steerpike
    I'll be trying touchpad sensitivity today - something has to be done as it is driving me nuts! Others have said that also, but in my two recent encounters with Win 11, processor power management is present in Win 11 so I wonder if you experienced an earlier version? I can go to - Control Panel, Power Options, Change Plan Settings, Change Advanced Power Settings, and there I can open 'Processor Power Management', and have the option to set Maximum Processor State for 'on battery' and 'plugged in'. I've used this for years in windows 10 on my Samsung to stop the fan from kicking in. Edit To Add: shouldn't I be hearing the fan, though, if Turbo mode is kicking in? I honestly have yet to hear the fan on this LG, which really surprises (and pleases!) me. I need to do some stress tests just so I can get familiar with how it sounds!
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