srs2236

Superposition has huge boost. Especially the Minimum FPS. This is with +130 Core and +250 Memory. Same was for Time Spy.

It has always been there. I was just too stupid to check. But in my defense MSI Afterburner GUI had 0 representation of that it can go over 100. I always saw it there, but thought it goes only backwards and not forwards aswell. It wasn't until I downloaded EVGA Precision that I finally realised that TDP slider actually can go to 110% which just forces the extra 15W at all times. 🤦‍♂️ But it's as one other forum user said, better late than never! =D I can already see performance increase that wasn't possible before, almost broke 14000 on GPU side.

I need to further test this ASAP!

Hi! I have good news and bad news regarding 3333MHz and low timings (well the timings I have for example) and 1.45V on the Ballistix RAM. Well the good news is that I believe the motherboard is in fact stable with 3333MHz and low timings. The bad news is the unstability (in my opinion) does come from some serious overheating from the Ballistix sticks at 1.45V. Let me explain. Just like you found out, if I ever were to run some real stress test other than some benchmarks it would throw errors after 1-3 minutes of the test running. And once they start they just never stop and it keep spitting errors like crazy. I just kind of dismissed that and kept my original timings for like almost half a year and never really had a problem in the OS. But then again, I never did nothing else other than pretty much just play Rocket League or some other casual gaming. And once you made the post about the RAM errors I tried OCCT and sure enough it still threw errors after 1-3 minutes. So I first started with creating a cooling solution for the RAM underneath the bottom cover. I used a TON of K5 PRO and on one side 0.5mm copper sheet and on other side 1.5 or 2mm copper sheet. Compressed both sides together as much as I could hoping K5 PRO will stick enough so they don't fall apart. As a safety measure I tried tightly wrapping kapton tape around the bare copper so that even if it came loose it wouldn't just fall off. Well after my first test I already confirmed its getting rather uncomfortably hot. I tried OCCT but it failed again in 3 to 4 minute mark. I was thinking how to tackle the RAM stick underneath the keyboard but there are problems. Even a 0.5mm copper sheet doesn't fit under the ram and maybe a 0.5mm fits on top but might create clearance issue with keyboard and unwanted flex on the stick from the keyboard. So because I was bored, I began to fiddle with what I got. I took copper tape, which is like very very thin like aluminium foil just copper and sticky on one side. I began covering the whole keyboard bottom with the copper tape, then applied 1mm thermal pad on top of the ram, 1mm thermal pad (like a nice big patch) on left, middle (right where PCH is) and right side of the keyboard. I did this in hopes it would transfer some heat from the RAM to the metal casing below with the help of the copper tape. I installed keyboard back in, put the screw for it and removed the back cover and litterally turned on the PC with it being on my lap screen down so I could test the thermals using my finger (very scientific I know xD). I started the OCCT benchmark and after the 3min mark (where it would normally start spitting errors like crazy) it was so hot on the RAM heatsink I swear I couldn't leave my finger on it it was burning so badly. I wish I had a thermal couple with me as that had to be very very hot. BUT the good news is, the keyboard thermal pad/copper tape mod had to have worked as for the first time I passed 5min test! I know its pretty much a joke 5mins but I am sure now it is just a thermal issue because of 1.45V on sodimm with all of them being put so tight together with 0 cooling capability on their own. It is not a good combination if you think about it. And once I figure out better ways to cool them I am sure they will run stable for longer than just 5 mins. I will give picture to how the heatsink looks for bottom RAM, forgot to take pics of the keyboard because I was kind of messing about didn't think it would do something meaningful. So, another thing, maybe if you leave timings alone OR loosen the timings and put 3333MHz on 1.35V it might be more stable as it shouldn't overheat as badly. Another theory is that the copper tape made the shielding better but I dont think so. EDIT: I actually just tried 10 mins and it was even stable on 10 mins! I have never seen this before ever! I am absolutely shocked that some copper tape and couple of chinese thermal pads actually did the trick! So I assume both of them need to be cooled somewhat otherwise they overheat on 1.45V. Anyways, I am off to try to push OC even more now to see if that has had some other impact aswell xD And before I run it longer than 10min I need to improve RAM cooling even more. I know it can be done, I have more ideas how to do it. Just need some time and tools. Also knowing how hot it got during the first 5mins I don't even want to know how hot it got at the end of 10 (have it screwed together already) and don't want to risk stressing it more until I improve cooling. Timings are the same as I always had.

So QHD meaning it's 2K or 1440p. 3K would be 2880x1620.

Ooh,I don't remember anymore... But I think it is normal so you just unfortunately have to wait.

Yeah, I noticed aswell that the 20-series design looked better. It is a shame that I decided to go with the 3080 route =D As you can see yourself the difference is not so big at all. It's almost like the real big difference is the VRAM size but that is it. 4090 on the other hand could be completely different story. Have to wait for the release! I am now sometimes thinking about whether or not I should have gone water route... I took the non-water version in hopes that it will have more copper mass but I am even not sure if thats the case or not.

I put a 145mV undervolt on my CPU thinking it was stable today. I ran all OCCT CPU stress tests it passed. Ran Cinebench R23 it passed. Ran Aida64 CPU stress test it passed. Ran Blender benchmark no problems there. Everything was working fine but because I wanted to be 100% it's stable I looked online and for the first time downloaded Prime95. Put simply, it absolutely demolished and tortured my CPU to the point where it was only stable with 100mV undervolt. As sad as it is I am going to stick with this one as final. It is just so sad because I have such a CPU thermal throttling issue its insane. Going from 9900K to 9900KS is even dumber than going from 2080 to 3080. There is no chance to have this CPU under control in terms of thermals. Oh well...

Trust me they are not. When I ordered my heatsink from AliExpress for way too much money it still arrived with bent fins and very rough surface for the GPU and CPU (litterally scratched my GPU die because of this). So I spent a good time unbending the fins and polishing the GPU and CPU surfaces...

Keep us updated on your adventures! I am interested in whether or not that second PSU will be of any difference. I have thought of this myself and realised my system has to be pushing pretty close to that 330W limit. And yesterdays CPU undervolt turned out to not be stable ;( Undervolting can be weird, passes 30min stability test in cinebench and then later during the night crashes out of nowhere during idle... Today I tried OCCT and it detected errors much quicker than cinebench so I will see what can I get out of it.

Hi! Sorry for not replying before. Here is all of my pictures from my installation. Same ones that has broken links now + more: https://files.fm/u/mq83nsjzp And here are the ones you asked now:

Your adventures have inspired me to optimise my P775 a bit aswell! My changes can be seen in signature. Basically pushed my CPU undervolt even more and for GPU pushed more on Core rather than VRAM.

Appreciate the fact you can do OC on the memory at all =D For my old RTX 2080, it had great core overclock like +150MHz but ABSOLUTE doggo VRAM overclock. I mean it was so horrible you did like 10MHz on the VRAM and it would artifact. Amazing silicon lottery on that one... Also more stress on the core might make VRAM stability worse as far as I know.

It is not an unlocked VBIOS and in terms of what you are thinking it hasn't been modded in any way. The reason why it works is it was officially released by Alienware for their Area 51m laptop. You can flash this VBIOS also on Clevo and other machines but most of the time you lose Display Port funcionality.

I found these: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10bU9egVEpbdLLAHE-DBZo0fdOnN8DQjN/view

I don't have the link for that driver anymore unfortunately. I just searched on google so it might still be out there somewhere. It's a generic Realtek driver anyway. I am not sure if I even have it still on my PC as I haven't used the optical audio for a while. And with this driver I think the 3.5mm audio jack is broken.

Also flashing the Alienware VBIOS will break both of your display ports on your P775TM1-G. Doesn't matter if 180W or 200W. Be aware of that. + It might even break G-Sync support but I am not sure about that one. About Display Ports I am 100% sure.

Wait I just realised it just might not be working because of the mismatch. Usually SLI was supposed to be within 2 of the same cards? Also, for SLI there needs to be another cable connected between the cards themselves. Do you have it?

No, just once you get it, you can dump your own BIOS and I will mod it for you. The only thing we will need to find is its actual placement on the motherboard of your laptop😃 Hopefully not too much disassembly is required. And I checked for your model and I am 99% sure it is an AMI Aptio BIOS. Also, it might not be necessary as one person on this forum had success flashing with software. You can make BIOS backup with software without any risk. It's flashing modified firmware is where something might go wrong and laptop will not boot anymore. That's where the CH431a can restore the BIOS to previous state without problems. Only real requirement for that is another computer running Windows from which you do the actual flashing of the BIOS chip. So you can purchase the flasher just in case something goes wrong and we can proceed using software without disassembly required.

Okay, first and probably the most annoying question to anyone I ask here - do you have a hardware flasher like the CH431a? If not are you familiar with the process at all? If it is AMI Aptio BIOS as far as unlocking hidden options and updating whatever modules are there to the latest including Managment Engine I could do it for you. But I am hesitant if you don't have hardware flasher.

I think so yes, because for my P775 the cable fit just fine.

Are you on latest stock Clevo right now?

No way! Lucky guy! Got a GTX 1080 for 1070 price😃 Do you know if these came with 10 series cards initially? If not then definately update the BIOS and EC to the latest available ones from Clevo. Maybe they added support later. If you are already on latest revisions I am sure this is a BIOS issue and fixable with some custom BIOS.

Good job! Did you flash the whole BIOS file or only the BIOS region with flash fpt?

For me it was different. TimeSpy ran with +130MHz on Core OC but during many real life tests in games the final stable value was only +85MHz🥲 but this is with my 3080. I remember my 2080 could do +145MHz stable aswell so might be a 2080 thing.