Mr. Fox

Yes, he does.

I got a response from the TB developer. Added to spoiler below. Corrupted TeamGroup Delta DDR5-6200 CPU-Z Report.txt Known Good Corsair Vengeance DDR5-6400 CPU-Z Report.txt

I don't like it either. I do not mind the light, but having to run crappy bloatware to change it to white really sucks. And, all of the software made for RGB is totally trash. That said, that person is just guessing. I don't know that it is accurate. If the Corsair stick that died actually died and did not get corrupted, it has no RGB. I selected it as a replacement specifically because it is not RGB memory.

Maybe this is a bigger problem than we know. Apparently, I am not the first and it is happening on other brands as well. Post #1 and #6 are of particular interest. Check this out: https://www.overclock.net/threads/corrupted-ddr5-spd-fix-tutorial.1795935/ @johnksss

I think the reasons were entirely self-serving. Not because they care, and not because they are "good people" because the exact opposite is true. They did it for self-preservation, because they know there are still multiple millions of people--including businesses--that are not going to drink their urine-flavored Kool-Aid and will abandon Windows when they can no longer use Windows 7. Some will switch to Linux, some to crApple, and some begrudgingly to Winduz 10/11 only when they are forced to because they did not plan ahead carefully enough and/or the software their business requires to function can't work on Linux or crApple. The tiny group that will be dumb enough to jump to Mac haven't figured out that Windoze 10/11 suck so bad precisely because they are reading from pages in the crApple playbook. For that reason, I probably will not upgrade my GPU any time in the foreseeable future. And, if and when I do it will be because it is supported by Linux. I am very close to the point that I don't give a rat's ass what the Redmond Retards do about anything. I value their new "products" roughly the same as I do the ABC gum stuck on the underside of a table in a booth at a filthy diner on the dirty side of the railroad tracks.

I asked because your phone screenshot says "collect in person" so I thought that meant you were picking it up.

Nice! Congrats, bro. You bought it locally? Pickup in person? If so, even better. No unpleasant suprises tha way.

That certainly didn't last very long. Now it's back to the previously insane but still supposedly discounted price. Same for the Dark. It's too bad the Classified has 4 DIMM slots instad of 2. Ever since I started using 2-slot mobos (or 4-slot X299) I don't want anything with 4 DIMM slots. The memory usually doesn't overclock as well, even when the slots are empty.

Sorry to hear this. It does seem like a hardware/mobo issue. What I said a moment ago applies to your situation, too.

Yeah, I hope not, too. Although, it would not be the first time I had an almost new stick of RAM go bad. I have had a couple DOA before as well. I saw one of the reviews on NewEgg where another customer complained that one stick of the Vengeance DDR5 was no good. I am glad that the replacement RAM confirmed the Delta RAM got messed up by the BIOS flash. At least the kit worked long enough to verify that, LOL. The old cliché that they "just don't make things like the used to" is more true now than ever before. Some of the most reputable brands seem to not have any QC any more.

Well, one of the Corsair sticks died today. I initiated replacement with NewEgg. I was using my computer earlier today and it locked up. I had to hold down the power button to shut it off, and then it wouldn't boot again. Removed one stick and nothing. Same problem. Put that one back in and took the first one out I left in and it immediately booted and ran fine. Put the other stick in by itself and again no boot. The good stick boots fine in either slot and the one that died won't boot in either one. Put the TeamGroup sticks back in, booted fine. Set manual timings and back to using it until the exchange is complete.

I also opened a ticket with MSI and sent screenshots that I had shared here. I will update this thread with their position on the matter when they reply.

I will try reaching out to him. I have communicated with him via email a lot over the years and so has @Prema. He has seemed to vanish and I hope that no harm or misfortune has come to him. The last time I renewed my Thaiphoon Burner license it took a long time for him to respond. When he did reply he was apologetic and said it would be a week or more before he could update the license. He did update the license and when I thanked him and expressed my appreciation and concern for his well being he never responded. He has always been fast to respond and very friendly, thus my concern. Edit: I just emailed him. I will provide an update if he replies. From: Mr. Fox Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2022 10:30 AM To: Vitality Jungle Subject: RE: "Thaiphoon Burner PRO Corporative Edition", Mr. Fox [ORD] Hello my friend. I have not heard from you for a long time. I hope all is well for you and your family. Do you know of a way to reprogram DDR5 modules? Does Thaiphoon Burner work with DDR5? I have an MSI MEG Z690 Unify-X and flashing the motherboard firmware seems to have corrupted the SPD and erased the XMP profiles. Replacing the sticks proved the corruption occurred on the modules and not the motherboard.

I do not have a way to reflash the correct SPD on the Delta sticks. It seems Thaiphoon Burner does not work on DDR5 and the firmware does not have an option to enable SPD write. I do not know if that is an MSI BIOS thing or if Z690 and/or DDR5 are the reason for that. If I could, there is nothing wrong that I can see with the actual memory modules. They work fine with manual settings other than the 1.435V cap that the SPD corruption introduced. I wish I knew of a way to reprogram them. It was super easy using Thaiphoon Burner on DDR3 and DDR4.

Nice to see a beloved brother joining the Mr. Fox multi-boot club. It is good to be able to test and identify the OS that produces the best score in a specific benchmark, and exploit whatever OS gives you the advantage. Liking it is not necessary if all you are doing is exploiting it to run a benchmark, and neither is using it when you are done. Even better, I like having the authority of experience to validate my vitriol for filthy feces like Windows 10 and 11. I can base my deeply-rooted hatred on knowledge and experience, and that greatly enhances the power of vilification and damnation, and it castrates any argument that I am simply a troll that resists change. I am an enthusiast that seeks opportunities to bring severe and irreparable financial and reputational harm to peddlers of technology dung. If I could, I would crucify them.

A60 is stable, but I am not sure yet what benefit, if any, there is on memory because those were different modules. The ones that the BIOS flash corrupted are TeamGroup Delta 6200 sticks and the new ones are Corsair Vengeance 6400. I was able to finally get the Delta 6200 to boot and bench at 7000, but not without a lot of fuss and much higher voltage, and not error-free. These Vengeance modules seem a lot more stable and use less voltage. Just for shiggles I may flash A30 to the second BIOS and see if there is any identifiable difference. If these new sticks struggle with 7000 on A30 then we can maybe say A60 is better. If it behaves the same then it will remain a mystery what "compatibility" was enhanced. It may have been something they did to improve results for modules using Samsung or Micron ICs since those have been kind of crummy to deal with on DDR5. Only SK Hynix has/had been decent.

Mobettah.

Got them and everything is back to normal now. Super happy about that. The mystery now is how and why flashing the MSI A60 BIOS cause this. That makes no sense and it is totally messed up. I do not believe it is coincidence that it happened totally independent of the BIOS flash at EXACTLY at the same time.

Sweet! Fun weekend alert. 🙂 Waiting for delivery still. But, the map shows the truck in my general vicinity. Probably will have it in the next hour or so.

It helps a little bit, but not nearly as effective from pipe-to-pipe as direct contact with the cold plate and radiator. Anything extra you add will create mass and give an extra path for heat to travel even if it is not as effective as you would like it to be. It is important to have something on the cold end of the pipe to avoid heat saturation. But, even if you can't due to lack of space it will either help a little bit or take longer for the part you are trying to cool to overhead. This is really good news. I am glad that is happening. The reason people want to hang onto Windows 7 as long as they can is because it is a better product, more stable, more pleasant to use, and because purchasing a new product that is inferior isn't an attractive proposition. It is extremely disappointing that they are incapable of producing a new product that is better and desirable to anyone except for those addicted to variety and newness even when it is not better. It doesn't reflect well on Micro$lop. I sometimes go for a year or more without changing my desktop wallpaper because I place greater value on controlling my experience and knowing exactly what to expect than I do random newness and variety that serves no useful purpose other than a feeble attempt at entertaining myself. For me, the extended support is not super important. I haven't installed any updates released since 2015 except for the absolutely mandatory things like SHA and KMDF. I only install those because a few software titles and drivers won't work without them. Otherwise, I would not even install those. "Security" is not found on my list of priorities.

If you can avoid stacking heat pipes you will get better results. If you can take that one unpainted heat pipe on the left and attach it directly to the cold plate the cooling will be much more effective. It looks like there is enough space between the black heat pipe and the screw spring arms. I am not sure exactly what you mean about the air gaps between the heat pipes on the stock heat sink. If you are referring to the air gap between those soldered next to each other, that is not a problem. Air gaps would be a problem in places where solder needs to attach the heat pipe to the radiator, cold plate, or another heat pipe if you are stacking them. That is only because you can't stick two pieces of metal together with solder if they are not touching one another at the point of soldering. You could if you were brazing with a torch and filling the space with brass, but you can't get the heat pipes that hot without destroying them. And, heat pipes and radiators are difficult to heat for soldering. They are designed to eliminate heat, which is why using an oven to melt the solder paste is the best approach. You get everything heated to the same temperature with no place for the heat to go.

Everything relating to turdbooks is totally retarded now and most of the reviewers whose focus is laptops are schizophrenic imbeciles that can't locate their posterior using both hands. When the majority of the sheeple are psychotic and reprobate to the point they are head over heals in love with rubbish and don't having any awareness of their own ignorance, it leaves little or no basis for hope to the minority that have retained possession of mental faculties such as common sense and ordinary intelligence.

LOL... It is not a reliable benchmark as we all know. However it is influenced by everything in the system. If you look at the individual component areas you can see that the drives are the thing influencing the score. If I disable drive letters on all of my drives except for the boot and os drives it goes down to the 72nd percentile because I have some mechanical hard drives and I run Windows 11 on a little 256GB nVME attached to a 1x add-in card because it doesn't deserve to be a permanent part of my system. The CPU and GPU are off the charts crazy good when you look at the component-level scores. The slow drives pull the score down.

Hopefully the memory will be here tomorrow as the tracking update says it will be. Here's the benchmark some love to hate, LOL. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/53908389 And, an old one... 7980XE and 2080 Ti https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/27314580

You definitely need to remove the paint for soldering. Solder will not stick to paint properly. You can use a 200 or 400 grit sandpaper to remove the paint. You do not have to remove the old solder as long as there are no lumps or bumps that would interfere with the heat pipe making complete and solid contact with the mating surface. You can sand the old soldered surface so it is completely flat and smooth. You cannot use solder paste to fill up air gaps between parts if the surface is rough because it is flux with tiny suspended solder beads and the parts have to fit together securely with no air gaps between the mating surfaces in order for the solder paste to work. You should also use c-clamps to hold everything securely in place while melting the solder paste. It is best to use an oven to bake/melt the solder paste. Keep the temperature low (just above melting point) and you can leave it in the oven longer. If you overheat the pipes they will swell and ruin everything. Allow it to air cool to ambient temperature. If you cool it off immediately in cold water it could fracture the solder. I hope that make sense the way I described it. Edit: if you have access to a sand blaster (or other media blasting) that is faster and easier than sanding off the old paint. That is what I used when I was experimenting with custom heat sinks. It makes a nice surface for soldering and for repainting. Using sandpaper requires a lot of elbow grease. I think it might not be normal paint. On the heat sinks I was playing with it was very difficult and tough to remove by sanding paper. It may be powder coating rather than ordinary enamel paint.