Mr. Fox

I still have more work to do to finish setting this up. I have to get more tubing to connect the chiller to the empty QD3 male fitting shown in the video and I need to redo the tank insulation to make it fit the tank a bit tighter. I am going to install a Y-splitter with ball valves so I can change between chiller and radiator without having to disconnect QD3 fittings, just by opening one valve and closing the other and vice versa. The radiator and chiller have discrete inlet ports on the tank to accommodate that. I resolved the swelling tank and trapped air issue that Brother @tps3443was having by installing a pressure relief ventilation tube on one of the ports and rather than building pressure (these tanks are not designed to be pressurized) it simply routes any overflow coolant and air to the top fill port on my first D5 pump reservoir. I used a T-adapter for the QDC with a G1/4 plug on top so I can top off the coolant or bleed off any air that gets trapped there. Here is a quickie video showing the current status. It's unlisted on my channel and I will do a complete one with audio later.

There is no question in my mind that 14900K will be, on average, a little bit better than 13900KS, just as the 13900KS was, on average, a little better than a 13900K. Your comment above is spot-on. It reflects the intelligence of taking a non-chalant wait-and-see approach and not shooting until you see the whites of their eyes. Early adoption always carries a penalty. The older I get, the more I have come to recognize early adoption as an extremely foolish behavior and frivolous way of squandering financial resources. We all feel compelled to scratch when we have an itch, but scratching an itch seldom makes it better. In some cases it makes it worse. Best to ignore it to the extent you are able to. For those that already own a 13900KS, chances are slim that the 14900K will provide a bump in performance that is worth spend another $600. Definitely would fall into the "for entertainment purposes only" with no practical benefit to be realized. It might be "worth it" if you have a below-average 13th Gen CPU that uses a ton of voltage, overheats and sucks at overclocking.

LOL, I watched that video the day it was released and it was an excellent example of... ...exactly the point I was making. It applies to air and water the same. The thermal transfer bottle neck of TIM and thermal solution (air cooler or water block) reaches a point where there is nothing more you can do other than improve the quality of the materials you are using. Pushing more water or air won't change anything when you have maxed out the capacity of those elements.

Maybe these guys. They have a YouTube channel I enjoy watching. https://pcbros.tech/ This could be a good starter with decent gaming specs and lots of upgrade options for CPU and GPU for the bargain price of $1,000 to get your foot in the door. https://pcbros.tech/products/intel-i3-12100f-rx-6600-xt-gaming-pc-in-stock

You could always build the base system and use an extremely inexpensive GPU like a $60 RX580 or a $160 GTX 1080 from AliExpress, then buy the GPU you decide you want later on. You could still do a lot of OK gaming (probably better overall than laptop) using the cheap GPU.

AI is like everything else. The more accepted, popular and prevalent it becomes, the more it sucks and the more it gets abused. It's one of those things that we do not need and the world would be better off without.

No, I am not buying a 14900K at this time. I have two 13900KS and a 13900K so there is not a good reason for me, but I think it will be a good CPU for someone buying or building a new system. I would only buy a 3090/3090 Ti, 4080 or 4090. I would not recommend a 3080/3080Ti or an AMD GPU.

I sold the NUC to Brother @serpro69.

Awesome. More good news. Yes, I think it was War Zone, but maybe not because it was not free. At least not at the start. I remember this because I was about to pull the trigger on buying it and I always Google search to make sure that games I plan to buy have a single-player campaign and that one did not. So, it got scratched off my list. I got burned a couple of times on games that looked pretty sweet but ended up being online multi-player only, so I am always a bit leery of getting screwed like that. Now, I will just have to wait for the price to drop to $20-$30. I love CoD titles. I have every one of them except for the one mentioned. The MWIII trailer looks great.

That's very good news. Nice to see Intel is not milking the inflation problem as an excuse to jack up prices more than the inflation rate. Now let's see how many retail scalpers toe the line. I hope that's not an indication that the new CoD release is going to be missing a campaign. If it is, I will have to skip this one too. I hope not. That will really suck. I hate online multiplayer and having to have an internet connection to play is also sucky. I was very disappointed with the last one being online multiplayer only. When I found out the last one had no single player campaign it was like, whatever, I don't care anymore. With the Redmond Reprobates buying Blizzard, it's probably a safe bet that they will ruin everything. They excel at screwing things up.

I would guess it is about the same, but that could vary from one system to the next on laptops depending on how good the heatsink contact and pressure is. The Honeywell pad works well because fit leaves something to be desired on most laptops. Brother @Vasudevmight be able to answer based on his experience. I did try the IC Diamond Graphite pad on a laptop several years ago and it was absolutely horrible... far worse than any thermal paste. I love Call of Duty, but I do not buy new releases in most cases. They are generally $40-$50 more than I am willing to spend on a game, so I wait for the price to fall to $20-$30 even when it is a title I am very fond of. Crysis releases have generally been one of the rare exceptions. I did pass on the last release of Call of Duty that had no single-player campaign. I do not play online multi-player and that made it worthless to me.

Yes, unfortunately, it just can keep up even on bare die. It does not even come close to comparing with liquid metal. I had hoped that it would. However, it is a good last-forever substitue for quality thermal paste. Results are about the same as KPX or MX-6. And, the advertisement is not wrong. It would work better for extreme cooling like LN2, because liquid metal cannot work in severe cold conditions like LN2 and DICE. You would have to use something else, so the advertisement is totally accurate in that respect. It would likely be very good for that. As an important side note, you also do not want to delid a CPU if you are going to use it on LN2 or DICE. Best to leave the IHS soldered. It works better and is safer for the CPU.

He will need to confirm that the problem is resolved, but I believe moving the chiller or tank higher than his PC fixed the issue. Before adding the tank his 300mm reservoir was the high point. Hopefully so, as it was understandably frustrating.

So, my second 13900KS finally arrived from Germany. It took like 16 days to get here using "priority mail" LOL. E-core SP rating is much higher and P-core VIDs are much lower even though the SP-rating on the P-cores is the same. MC rating is a bit lower, but I doubt that is going to affect anything. I am running it at 8600 with the same memory OC profile and I think the MC SP rating is the same as @tps3443CPU so it should be fine. I will delid it either tomorrow or next weekend. I am running the Optimus block on it for now.

I think I see the problem. It looks like the tubing leading into your CPU block is the highest point in the loop. The point of air accumulation will always end up being the highest point, because air rises to the surface. I don't think you'll ever be able to correct that until the lines leading into the chiller or the top of the water tank end up being elevated above the highest point in the loop so all air accumulates there. In order for it to work the way it is right now it would have to defy the laws of physics. Try reinstalling your pump and reservoir combo on the side of the bench again so that becomes the high point. Only have one pump between the tank and PC and put most of the pump power on the return side of the loop. You can stand the tank on end so the lines are in and out of the top the same as the chiller and that will eliminate any air inside the tank. This will force all of the air to go up to the top of the reservoir. Another alternative would be to stand the tank on the end next to the PC on your desk so that the lines are going in and out of the top of the tank. That will become the highest point in the loop. Put a tube on the outlet fitting inside of the tank and thread it into the inside of the brass fitting like an oil sump pickup tube on your car engine so that the line leaving the tank has the pickup tube always submerged in water.

All of them do really sleazy things. Before we purchased our current home, we owned a house about 1.5 miles from here in a different subdivision. There was no exclusive cable provider kickback scam with Cox like our current HOA. I had a great package with Cox and after a year they decided to jack the price to double, so I switched to Mediacom and got my cable internet at twice the speed and the same price as Cox before they doubled the price. Before making the switch I called the Cox customer-retention department and told them what I was about to do with Mediacom in case they wanted to try and retain my business. The idiot "helping" me just kept reciting a mantra, "I'm sorry Mr. Fox, your package was a time-limited offer and a cannot reinstate it." So, I suggested she find a new line of work because she was failing at her job in customer retention. I pulled the plug and moved to Mediacom. I never looked back and Mediacom was great to deal with. Fast-forward about a year later, we sold that house, purchased this one and when I tried to move my cable internet with Mediacom to the new address they told me "Unfortunately, we are not allowed to provide service to your subdivision due to a contract between Cox and the HOA" and I was like WTH? That's just so wrong and messed up. So, back to Cox with a fantastic deal. Everything was great. It worked well and the price was good. It expired a year later, the price doubled and they again refused to "retain me" after contact with their customer-retention department. Same mantra, different zombie customer-retention rep. So, I switched to T-Mobile 5G and it was horrible here due to a poor signal. It is awesome on my phone, but the home internet was poor at my address. One mile up the road is a strong 500 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up connection. At my home address there was a frequent signal loss, even with an outdoor 5G antenna. At that time, Centurylink 20 Mbps DSL was the only available alternative, so not an acceptable one. I struggled with T-Mobile 5G for 2 months and Cox ran an ad for a special package for Gigabit internet with unlimited data for $50/month. I tried to sign up and they said, "Sorry, this is for new customers only, it has been less than a year since you left so you're not a 'new' customer" so I had my wife call Cox and use her name. They gave it to us. Same last name, same address... she was considered a "new customer" even though I was not, LOL. Stupid. One year later the price goes to $70. I cringed, but bit the bullet due to no acceptable alternative. One year after that (last month) the price goes from $70 to $108... for internet only. Insane and not worth it. Centurylink began putting in fiber lines 6 months ago and the service just went live last month. I have been on the waiting list for 3 months (when they started taking pre-orders) so it happened just in time. Less than a month of Cox service at the jacked up $108 Mafia scalper rate. Buh-bye Cox. Their name is a fitting and accurate facsimile of the vulgar word describing the part of the male anatomy that is phonetically the same pronunciation. I do Netflix, Paramount+, Discovery+ and all of the free streaming channels. We use our kids accounts for a couple of additional streaming services and they use ours for a couple. So far none of the providers have stopped it. I cancelled Disney+ when they suddenly got extra-stupid with their woke cancel-culture nonsense. I think it was the campaign against Gina Carano when I told them to go mate with themselves. Now that they are remaking all of their movies with politically-correct liberation theology/equality white privilege propaganda I will never subscribe again and plan to boycott all Disney movies going forward. I canceled my Planet Fitness membership at the same time and moved to EOS because Planet started belligerently spamming my phone and email multiple times per day with gay crap, and plastering their walls at the gym with disgusting propaganda posters during "Pride Month" and I told them to shove their woke garbage up their limp-wristed lover's tailpipe. I think I will use the money saved on the fiber internet and cancelled woke businesses to level-up on my Second Amendment load-out and stockpile some extra ammo... just in case, LOL. Is your tank higher than the chiller? If the air in the tank is not the highest point in the loop that could be somehow contributing to the issue. It will be interesting to see if I run into a similar situation when I reconfigure my system with the water tank. Anything is possible, but I have been using QD3 fittings for years and haven't experience them allowing air into my loop or leaking while they are connected. I have had the female fittings stick open after disconnecting them, but that was due to the black anodize finish on the male part getting scratched and scraped and the particles from that jamming up the female portion. I stopped buying black and have been replacing them with chrome and the chrome fittings never stick open like the black ones. I think it may be something related to location of the pumps in the loop or something else related to the addition of the tank if that is when it started. Finding the source of something like this can be tedious and frustrating. Have the tiny bubbles affected your temperatures? If not and everything is working correctly other than the visible bubbles, then it might not be something to be overly worried about.

The Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Next water block ís also temperature only. Yours might be the same. I was disappointed to discover that as well. Caveat emptor. The version with both is a lot more expensive and grossly overpriced, poor value. You can get a TT TF2 and enjoy both with no need for crappy software. It works even with no operating system, and starts displaying data as soon as you press the power button. It has an alarm that can be adjusted to go off with a user-defined limit on flow rate and that can be set with buttons on the device. It has no features that rely on the presence of an operating system, or a USB header, which makes it awesome. I suspect the same thing is going to happen here. Cox has had a long-time monopoly with no competition other than Mediacom, whom they screwed, along with would-be subscribers, by doing sleazy exclusive-access cable vendor schemes with various housing developers and homeowner's associations. Back in the day when their Mafia deals were struck, Centurylink/Qwest offered only crummy landline, dial-up and DSL. Now that Centurylink (Quantum Fiber) is a threat, and T-Mobile 5G Home Internet are also helping to bypass their monopoly, they are starting to freak out. It makes me very happy to see it taking place. Not only do they no longer have the fastest options available, they now have to compete with a no data limit provider that is offering a no-contract product that is faster and $30-$70/month cheaper, which varies depending on your street address. Those who were blocked from choosing Mediacom due to sleazy business deals will enjoy even greater financial benefits. I love seeing ruthless and brutal justice executed upon the wicked with such merciless precision. I will be giving Cox the nasty-finger eat poop and die salute tomorrow. An interesting challenge with the fiber was that my upload was only like 38 Gbps (same as Cox cable was) and fiber is supposed to be 1Gbps both up and down. The problem turned out to be my Linksys WRT32X router. On WiFi 6 and wireless AC I was getting proper speeds up and down, but wired LAN upload was not. Connecting the Cat6 cable direct to the fiber modem the speeds were correct. So, I ditched the router and will use the fiber modem's internal router for that rather than using it in bridge mode. I replaced it with a 8-port switch and *BOOM* Gigabit both ways. So, the router was the bottleneck on upload speed and I am not sure why. The WRT32X has an internal speed test feature and it was correctly showing up/down both at Gigabit speeds, but the LAN ports were limiting upload to 38 Mbps maximum for some reason. Installing the switch in place of the router was an instant fix. The TP-Link 8-port Gigabit switch was only $21, LOL. The 1 Gbps upload is going to make uploading a large YouTube video a lot faster than <40 Mbps was. At least I would think it should be a whole lost faster.

I am amongst the first to get it so it might go down a bit once more users are consuming bandwidth.

Got new internet... finally... long overdue competition for Cox Cable. It was the only option other than crappy 20 Mbps DSL, but now we have fiber. Same price as Cox Cable Gigabit, but faster both ways. Quantum Fiber is the new ISP.

Same. I just want white, and only white. If the companies that sold RGB products would make static white the default and let those that want something else install software the world would be a much better place. The default rainbow puke is disgusting and makes me hate buying products with RGB. OpenRGB works fine for things other than RAM. I use it for my keyboard and GPU without issue. Beware of using it for memory RGB. Should be fine for peripherals. It works great for RAM as well... until it doesn't. There's no easy way to fix it since Thaiphoon Burner does not work for DDR5. I had Vitality Jungle (Thaiphoon Burner developer) confirm the SPD corruption. He could fix it, but there is no way to flash it correctly. The unfortunate part is that OpenRGB can accidentally write to areas of the memory that have nothing to do with the RGB space on the memory modules. The safest option for memory RGB is to use the RAM manufacturer's RGB software. G.SKILL's RGB utility works for TeamGroup and other brands of memory. But, it doesn't permanently save the changes to the memory modules. It applies the color scheme only while running, which is why it is safe. Nothing gets written to the memory modules.

OpenRGB bricked three RGB memory kits for me. Two TeamGroup and one G.SKILL. It is a known issue. One stick the SPD was completely wiped and the second and third kits had the SPD corrupted so that some timings were erased, the product name and brand were corrupted and did not display correctly in AIDA64 or CPU-Z. It is a dangerous option for DDR5 users. If you enable SPD write in the BIOS almost guaranteed you will end up bricked, but it happened to me with it disabled twice. The first time when it wiped the SPD it was enabled. OpenRGB says it is the memory manufacturers fault for not protecting the modules. Might be the case, and I believe it probably is, but it is still the end user that ends up getting screwed and it directly resulted from using OpenRGB.

Look in your BIOS for both MyASUS and Armory Crate. If you find them, disable both of them. If you need to use Armory Crate for your laptop for crap like RGB and fan control, you can install it. It DOES NOT need to be enabled in the BIOS to install it. MyASUS is the automatic BIOS update filth and if Armory Crate is enabled in the BIOS you will be prompted to install it when installing Windows. It will install LAN/WiFi drivers from the UEFI and connect to the internet without user intervention. @D2ultima - screenshot If you do not have these options available in the BIOS, they are likely enabled by default with no option to turn them off. Especially likely with a turdbook. You never really own a modern laptop. You merely rent it and the OEM and Redmond Retards decide what happens to it.

The MyAsus toggle in the BIOS allows the motherboard to identify itself as open to firmware updates from Micro$lop. This is common on modern turdbooks and it is disgusting that we see this dung surfacing in desktops. I guess we shouldn't have surprised looks on our faces considering the mentality of the zombie sheeple herd. Armory Crate is the ASUS equivalent of garbage like Clevo Control Center, MSI Dragon Center, etc. but the ASUS software is the most extreme bloatware garbage I have ever seen. It installs around a dozen services and TSR applications, about 1,000 registry keys and has a severely negative impact on system resources. It is frequently broken and often will not even function. ASUS has bundled Aura into it and you cannot control your RGB without installing the entire malware payload. You can use OpenRGB, but that places you at risk of the memory SPD getting corrupted if you have RGB memory. Find both of those automated defecation switches in your BIOS and set them to disabled. They are on the same menu as EZ-Flash and BIOS user profile management if memory serves me correctly. I will grab a screenshot for you if you need it. Bummer. I did not know that. When you look at how many Strix motherboards exist it is very confusing and difficult to fully understand what kind of compromises come with a lower price tag. ASUS is not very transparent with their specifications and feature versus compromise comparison among the crazy number of options. They probably assume, and it may be accurate, that most of the kiddos buying their crap shop based on price only and don't really care about things they do not understand. There is definitely truth to the cliché that ignorance is bliss.

You should not be allowing Windows to know whether or not the firmware update is available. That is none of their business and access should be blocked for the best outcome. I would recommend disabling the BIOS options for MyAsus and Armory Crate. I do not recommend updating the BIOS. There are numerous examples of people who are not happy with the results. Memory overclocking has been impaired for some people with the latest cancer firmware updates on their Asus motherboards. You'll probably have to downgrade to an older firmware to regain the loss of function brought through updates. @Falkentyne cannot even boot his system with memory overclock settings previously stable across the previous 5 or 6 firmware versions. Many of the so-called exploit mitigations impair functionality and hinder performance. You are wise to use the approach of not "fixing" anything that is not broken. There has never been a security patch or exploit mitigation worth sacrificing performance or function. Asus actively blocks Intel ME downgrades and ME updates should be avoided. Intel ME provides zero consumer functionality and its existence is a vulnerability. Asus *should* provide an option in the BIOS to disable Intel ME but they do not. It is a built-in backdoor point of entry allowing remote system access for "business" (government and hacker access) that should not even exist on consumer motherboards.

That's strange. The Strix Z690-E that I used to have had it. Maybe they removed it in a BIOS update downgrade. You're correct in doubting it. Sapphire was an ATi AIB before they were purchased by AMD back in the day before NVIDIA displaced them as the world's premier GPU ODM. My last ATi (pre-AMD) Radeon All-in-Wonder Pro and Rage Pro (circa 1996-1997) were made by Sapphire. They have always been ATi/AMD-only. PCIe did not even exist back then. The cutting edge GPU slot back then was AGP and the VRAM was measured in MB instead of GB.