Reciever

@Custom90gt I have upvoted your posts in the linked content above.

I think I had about 22-24TB of storage internally for the Ranger before I retired it and sent your what left of the parts I had. Its good that you have multiple systems though, at the time I was rebuilding my life and only had this but couldnt ignore my itch for modding lol EDIT: Source link added and much love towards @Aaron44126 for hosting the archive.

This is a repost of my modification of the Alienware 17 Ranger. Its been some time since I have had this system, but I just wanted to get it out of the Archive :) Source: https://www.nbrchive.net/xfa/alienware-17-and-m17x.1079/Internal powered USB 3.0 Hub via DMC [56k Warning]/ Good Evening ladies and gents, What I present to you today is a mod I have been thinking about for a while, while the Ranger was dead. Long ago I purchased an mpcie USB 3.0 adapter for the m4600 and sadly it wouldnt post. So, I set it aside for a while. After the Ranger died, I looked over the motherboard and long discounted the use of the mpcie USB adapter as there are physical impairments with USB cables from a mock up I made a while ago. Then I wanted to consolidate my drives into one system for travel and be able to leave behind my work horse, the m4600. So I took another look at this idea. So before committing to this, I tested it out. Testing things before cutting everything up is best if possible, saves a lot of hassle and its less deflating when it doesnt work out. Surprisingly, it worked, booted right up and displayed my drive that was currently hooked up to the hub at the time. No issues with post, windows continued to boot right up. So the test worked, there was principle to the idea. Now on to random cables I thought I would need. I ended up using just the bottom of the external caddie, and the male to female micro usb cable. Though I may still use the sata female to male extension cable for something later if I can figure out how to power a 3rd fan dedicated to the GPU. On to problem 1. Now, I made the cuts already to the cable but this is another cable just to display what the issue was (retroactive guide lol) that the usb connector was simply too large, displaying the issue I had long known about. To remedy this, I needed to remove the housing and hope that the profile would be thin enough to not cause obstruction with the components of the motherboard. Issue remedied. Also added a 0.5mm thermal pad just to remove possibility of a short circuit (metal close to motherboard) Problem #2 This would need to be removed. Also figuring out a good spot for the USB 3.0 Hub. I determined this to be the best location for the USB hub, however if you see the outline in the bottom of the image, it would conflict with the 5TB drive that normally occupies this space, so I need to create more space to house the Hub. Yes, I am making cuts on a recycling can. I am a function over form kind of guy. Now, naturally I had to cut out the obstruction in the center where the battery normally lays in order to house the HDD's I plan to plant here. That goes without saying. HOWEVER, considering you are weakening the integrity of the chassis, you must minimize this as much as possible. Thus, keeping that arm attached is a good idea, as there are a couple screws there to give the keyboard its integrity as well as pull everything together. Couldnt quite get this focused for some reason, my nice camera is with my ex in korea, but for now the LG v20 has held up well enough. Anyways, this is just the same cut presented before but cleaned up and sanded down to prevent cuts of any kind. Now, this is what you will feed the hub's connector through, but its also what you will feed the supplement power into. You will need to reduce the cables profile just like you seen before with the USB to DMC spot. It will not be enough though, so you will need to reduce the obstruction as much as you're willing to. I think I only shaved off 2-3mm. This is the flipside of the picture before this in the previous post. On to problem 3. Where to feed in the supplement power? I am not a great modder, I am just a laymen who can connect the dots. I then thought maybe I can feed the female end of the micro-usb cable into the kensington lock. As they were similar size. So I started making some cuts. After that, I began to test fit some stuff. Here is why I needed to shave down this obstruction a bit, you want to keep it as you have a screw placement there but reducing it wont hurt. Then I figured out that the enclosures I bought were too wide, and two of them would be too tall. Not wanting to spend more money (as I am pinching pennies atm), I got a little....creative....to be shown later. So, naturally, you need to reduce the micro usb connectors profile as much as possible. Now you begin to put everything together and work out the details. I did this with my old dead motherboard, dont want to be testing anything with a live motherboard if you can avoid it. You will notice that the USB cable is cut, its impossible to cable manage in so tight a space, you will need to reduce the cable length. Find a location feel you are comfortable connecting the two wires. I chose to do it in a area where it would be straight to minimize complications. For the purposes of this cable, its sole purpose is to provide power, so you can cut out the data cables (as they are friggin tiny anyways) I highlighted the points of interest. At the end, the cable from the female end proved to be an obstruction and the keyboard wouldnt sit well. You will need to reduce the cables profile itself. Also to note, I used shrink wrap my brother had, worked out nicely. Also the female connection of the supplement power was also reduced further to minimize obstruction. Next is more or less where I am calling it a day for now. As its been days without my Ranger. I will include the 5TB drive in time, but that will require cutting the USB cables you see here in the ODD bay. Also, two 9.5mm drives will be too tall for the battery bay. 1x 9.5mm and 1x7mm drive will work though as you see here. I used electronic tape to cover the pcb of the drive and then taped together with HVAC tape, as its adhesive is quite strong. I like how I didnt need to make any cuts outside of the chassis, as I only have a dremel, and not very confident at making a clean cut. But here is where you plug in the supplement power, right next to the AC Adapter input. And of course, its only a success if the drives show up right? 5 internal drives, with a 6th in the near future (once I replace the HDD interposer cable that seemed to die on me). ALSO if you make cuts to your chassis, dont bother blowing it out, DONT TAKE ANY CHANCES with metal shavings. Hose the chassis with water for a good while and air dry. What do you guys think? critiques or questions welcomed. Originally posted January 31st, 2019

Thats why I personally found the happy medium with the TU150, it let me have my D15 and 3 slots of space for my 2.5 slot 5700 XT. I was even able to plug in an M4000 (iirc?) single slot GPU as an experiment. To be clear, I am not a Liter elitist type, I just like the form factor. I also housed 6 drives in the case as well, provided I can get my hands on the vent door someday, I may rebuild into it. For now I enjoy the simplicity of open frames. I had a Rampage III Extreme back in the day, a golden xeon chip, 3x 470 + GTS 450. Though maybe mounting it on my wall was more of the drawback than the system itself? Often pulling the whole thing down for troubleshooting what later became known as an improperly cooled NorthBridge that killed one of the DIMM slots basically killing triple channel (which was all the hype at the time). While Im sure your eyes (and primarily justified 100% in its Genesis) Close Loop Coolers (CLC) also known as cheap, low cost was an innovation primarily marketed towards SFF builders as an improvement over the typical single fan non tower cooler designs (that recycled heat). The wind fall from that development was that people went to those coolers to avoid dealing with RAM clearance altogether. Though a slew of horror stories slept the net not long after with the lack of QC and bad designs (stiff tubing breaking from the radiator, more often than not). It was around this time that Asus put forth some serious products for the SFF arena iirc my interest was in the mATX motherboards, were very compelling. This was mainly because Asus solved the at the time important question that was more important then, than compared to these days, what about my sound card? Since they integrated that part to the motherboard it let me people not worry about it. It also forced people to pay more attention to air circulation in your case. i.e, airflow, not airblow. I myself used to have an NZXT Vulcan and modified the case to accept a 360mm rad on top, it was a fun project at the time. Its not for everyone, so I am glad they have multiple standards to suit each extreme.

If you got the instruction from the A14+, they are in the readme.

Most of the time I cant justify ATX or E-ATX. For a long time of my experience in PC building, it just seemed liked waste real estate which just leads me to believe you either you have to commit into the form factor for a long term to fully realize it (if you are of humble means) or have the cash to flat out fill out that frame. Ultimately it comes down to that special electrical signal in your brain that tickles your fancy. For me the challenge to drive performance from SFF's was more fun than the endurance race that the ATX form factor became for me. Though that was really just my perspective at the time. These days I technically have both, my AM4 ITX x570 system that I personally use and the 10850K systems that I run as a Plex / Miner @ 5Ghz and using 2 shelves to hold it all. I guess Im on the fence :D

Oh you are referring to when making a post? Most of the discussion in that thread to my knowledge was for when viewing posts the pictures were being compressed iirc

I think I went with the mostly standard list but from what I am reading in the mods folder here it is: 4k cloud aqua better trophies HDMonstersReworked HDReworked (parts 1-4) Over9000 (weight limit) Unlimited durability 4kArmor textures I have one on my list its called modcan but I am not sure what it is lol I have been debating taking out 4k Clouds for Phoenix lighting but have been lazy.

To my understanding, thats not resizing but viewing the native picture. Regarding the recently browsing, I will check into that this weekend, its on my action list :)

I am now replaying Witcher 3 with a number of mods that from what I can tell enhance the source material without deviating too much. Last time I played it, I think I was using the 5700 xt, since I am not mining as much right now until the Winter, hooked up the 3090 to my AM4 system. Finally made it out of White Orchard and into Velen Also, changed the title.

Wasnt MW1 not sold as a standalone?

Welcome to the Forums :)

Are those texture packs true to form or more in the likeness of whoever made them?

Yeah, I just missed more I suppose on my TU150 case as I bought it thinking it had the door but by the time I made the trip to MicroCenter saw they only had the version with the glass. I dont have the vanity to need to see my components when I am running my PC. Would've liked to have the vent instead. Of course now I have gone full open bench-esque builds for everything so I guess I am being a bit hypocritical here lol

I guess case makers dont like the side window fans anymore. One of the first mods I did was add 2x 120mm fan placements to my Antec 902, its also where I learned that more air in doesnt mean cooler temps. Reversed the fans and watched my temps drop quite a bit for the 4890 XFire I had at the time.

Good Evening Everyone! This guide will be aimed more towards new members or members not familiar with this type of Forum software. On NBR we used to have to request for a name change in a thread made by @Charles P. Jefferies who thankfully facilitated these requests. On this Forum software, we can make these changes on our own via the Account Settings tab. To begin, assuming you are at the home page, direct your attention to the top right of your screen where your Handle (the name you use on the forum) is displayed. Next to it you will notice an arrow, this is to denote a menu being available. Click on it, as highlight below. With that, a number of options will become available, for the purposes of this guide however, we will need to select "Account Settings". As highlighted below. Once within your Account Settings, you will need to direct your attention to the center left side of the screen for the list of options provided there. Direct your attention to "Display Name" as highlighted below. Once you have selected this option, the page will remain but the sub-menu will change to that for altering the Display Name. As can be seen below. Keep in mind that all your previous alias's will still be listed in your profile, so while your public facing identity will change, if anyone looks at your profile they will see your previously listed names. All members will be limited to making 1 name change every 120 days, so do be mindful when selecting your name. If there are any additional questions or critiques, please feel free to forward them to me. Thanks everyone! Chris

Good Evening Everyone! This guide will be aimed more towards new members or those that haven't spent much time of this type of Forum software. Assuming that your starting point is the Forums home page, direct your attention to the top right of the screen where you will find your Handle (the name you use of the forum) along with an arrow next to it, this is to signal that there is a menu present. Click on your handle as highlighted below. You will find a number of options, but for the purposes of this guide, we will need to select "Account Settings" as highlighted below. Direct your attention to the center left pane of the settings options. The option we need to select is "Content View behavior" as highlight below. This will take you to the options available for Content View Behavior, which should look as it does below. Now, you can alter where in the thread the browser will take you based on these settings. However, this function has not proven to be consistent. We had reached out to the Invision Community forums for guidance regarding these issues, we got the extremely helpful "We cant recreate the issue" response. With the only recommendation being, "Use Chrome". Thus, my apologies in advance for future issues regarding this particular scenario. Chris

Good Evening everyone! This will be a short guide aimed primarily at newer members regarding Notification behavior and how to alter it. We have opt-in scenario in play on the forums for the most part, however this can be changed. Assuming your starting point is the forums home page, direct your attention to the top right of the screen, you will see your Handle (the name you use on the forums) with a small down arrow next to it, this is to signal a menu. A list of option will appear, for the purposes of this guide you will need to select Account Settings, highlighted below. After selecting the above, you will need to direct your attention to the center right of the screen under "Other Settings", the option we need is "Notification Settings" which is highlighted below. This will take you to the notification settings and its behaviors. Push notifications work well most of the time but I have sometimes seen that it would be quite a bit slower than real time, maybe 15-20 minutes at worst. Though Im not sure about my browsers compatibility, using Brave or WaterFox primarily. YMMV, test it for yourself. I was surprised when push notification did actually work for my phone, however, but again YMMV. Followed Content is also typically one of the first items members look to alter so this is also a means to change those behaviors here. There are other aspects of the forum that you can alter notification behavior for, but I have only highlighted the above. If you have made it this far you will have already discovered those settings :) Thanks everyone! Any additional questions or critiques please feel free to reach out. Chris

I can vouch for this member having a long time tenure from Notebookreview. I will allow for exceptions for any member I can personally verify. Thank You all and GLWS @triturbo

Welcome back to fold Triturbo! Be sure to check out the NBRchive and if you would like to repost your guides and experiences please feel free to do so :)

I intend to do a few more writeup's for things I have come across. Its probably not good PR for the Admin to admit this but I am likely the least experienced with this software before creating this soft landing for our group. Little things here and there :)

As Aaron44126 had cited (to which I happy to see the notification for such action works, minor victory there) we had a sub-forum for Apple and a few others but we had 0 activity in those sub-forums and so we had removed their slots. That doesnt mean that said content isnt welcomed, but as a fledgling forum with 0 advertising to speak of, we cant have completely dead sub-forums either. If an Apple thread has semi-regular participation we can definitely entertain creating a sub-forum for Apple.

It looks like you may have figured it out or got a tip from another member. Essentially you select the "remove formatting" option above the text box after having pasted your content. At very least this is how I have been resolving that little issue.

At some point, I would like to purchase my own home and I would love to re-purpose the heat dump from my PC's towards the home, an obvious one would be heating the house but maybe during the summer use it to supplement water heating. We already pay for the energy, might as well make it stretch. Though to be perfectly honest, Im a cheapskate for the things I dont want to have to pay for, so that I can splurge where I want to. Most people are like that (I believe) but I may take it a degree further is all. For example, I have been wanting to buy the Leopold FC980M for a few years now, but its 120 USD. I've also been keen on the Code v3 keyboard and the Pok3r for work due to their macro functions they retail I think for 185 and 150 respectively. I purchased neither until I came across them on ebay for 40 and 36 USD respectively. Which reminds me, I have been debating opening a thread for mechanical keyboards. I am sure plenty of people here use them even if the main focus for the forum is for laptops :) Yeah something similar to that :) Regardless of if radiators are essentially housed elsewhere to avoid that heat dump, the components themselves, I would imagine, are still generating some heat that isnt captured by the water. This would make airflow to the components just the extra edge for additional cooling. Of course this is all in my head and have no empirical data to back it up. Though again, way too rich for my pocket book

So then, the heat dump does have some affect on the system? I assume it would be minimal but I know you guys sweat the details for benching (for reasons most implicitly understand, I think).