Aaron44126

Lemmings fan myself... Actually did some bugfixes for this engine recreation that runs on modern Windows (but behaves like the DOS version) if anyone wants to give this game a new play. 🙂 (Just download, unzip and run.) https://github.com/AaronKelley/LemmixPlayer/releases

No. It can go above 90W with dynamic boost. I'm not sure what the actual value is for the 7560 though. I know that the base TDP value for the RTX A5000 in the Precision 7760 is 115W, but with dynamic boost it can hit up to 140W. That said, you can assume that the GPU won't spend that much time in dynamic boost (especially if there is a moderate to heavy CPU load as well) as the system only has 180W total available to use.

Takes some muscle memory adjustment but you can still open Task Manager by right-clicking on the Start Button.

Pretty sure I read that they can work between circuits (depending on the “quality” of your electrical wiring) but speed will be reduced a good bit. (Seems pretty limiting otherwise as a circuit would just cover a room or two, probably adjacent rooms, and you might as well just knock a hole in the wall and put a real Ethernet jack on each side in that case.)

I looked into this before I ran Ethernet everywhere. Check to see if there are arc fault circuit breakers where you would like to put the powerline adapters. These are normal for bedroom power outlets in newer houses, and pretty much my entire upper floor has outlets behind arc fault breakers. I hear that powerline adapters can cause these to trip randomly, cutting power until you go flip the breaker back on. (No first-hand experience but I have had other arc fault issues... It scared me out of buying any powerline adapters.)

I checked on this yesterday when I rebooted for Windows patches. There are options for this under "Security". I don't see an option to "reset" the tamper protection. Turns out that I had just disabled it altogether. (Maybe disabling and then re-enabling it would reset it? Or maybe another button shows up there to reset it when it needs to be cleared? The text seems to indicate that there is a way to clear it.) No idea what's going on with the BIOS being pulled, but maybe there will be a hint in the release notes for the next version ...

Internet: AT&T gigabit 1000 (fiber to the home) — it's symmetric, I can hit a speed test with 930 Mbps both ways. Gateway: Using the AT&T-provided gateway box. I know there are some tricks to get this out of the picture but I have not bothered with that. It's in passthrough mode, and I was suspicious about it but it has not given me any trouble. Router: I have three Asus RT-AX92U routers that I bought to try in a Wi-Fi mesh configuration. I ended up being very disappointed with AiMesh performance. Right now they are set up independently, with one acting as a router and the other two as access points (+ switches), and that has been working pretty well. The Internet, gateway, and primary Asus router all live in an unfinished room in my basement along with a 16-port Cisco gigabit switch. That switch feeds the rest of the house. About 18 months ago, I took on a project to get Ethernet into every room in the house — one jack in each bedroom, two in the living room, and two in the loft/office. (This was right after AT&T fiber became available and, working from home, I was unsatisfied with just using it over Wi-Fi.) I did this just by cutting holes in the drywall the size needed to mount an Ethernet jack, and then through the hole, I used a long drill bit with a 90-degree adapter to drill down through the baseboard. From there I was able to run fish tape to an unfinished room and pull the Ethernet cable back. Because I only cut holes where I wanted to put an Ethernet jack, I didn't have to do any drywall patching. My house has a basement, main floor, and upper floor. Running cables from the main floor to unfinished space in the basement was pretty easy. For the upper floor, I was able to run cables either to the garage or to a utility room on the main floor and then from there down to the basement. There was one jack on the upper floor that I had to run behind a wall on the main floor all the way down to the basement. I put the upper floor jack directly above a main floor jack and used some long drill bit extensions to drill holes through the upper floor baseboard and the main floor ceiling board (all behind the wall) and then I was able to run the cable down to the basement through the same hole I made for the main floor jack. In the end, you can only an "exposed" Ethernet cable in the garage and in the basement, everywhere else I managed to hide them in the walls, ceiling, or unfinished spaces; I am really pleased with how it turned out. So, the other two Asus routers are placed in different parts of the house for maximum 5 GHz Wi-Fi coverage with an Ethernet backhaul. I have a switch in the living room for stuff connected to the TV, and a switch in the office which has a couple of laptops and printers connected to it. Because there is Ethernet everywhere, I don't actually use the Wi-Fi that much; just for a pair of phones and a pair of iPads, and occasionally a laptop if someone is using it in a spot that is not near an Ethernet jack. (And visitors, I guess.) My "server" lives with network equipment in the basement and it is just a spare laptop with a 512GB NVMe system drive and 8TB SATA SSD data drive, and a 6TB USB HDD which holds backup images of other systems in the house. Backups run at night and can take a few hours even with a gigabit wired between client and server. I'm abusing Carbonite's "unlimited backup" service to keep backups of everything on my "server" in the cloud. (Thankful that AT&T doesn't have a data cap for this plan. I hit 3-4 TB of data transferred per month.) I don't have any 10-gigabit connections yet. None of my switches or PCs can accommodate it. I think the cabling can handle it so I can look into upgrading down the line.

News — Multiple reports over the past day or two about new features coming to Windows 11, discovered in preview builds (but not actually announced by Microsoft), including: A new notice in Settings when your PC does not meet the Windows 11 base requirements Giving your PC a "sustainability rating" (having to do with power use) New taskbar overflow button (Again, I don't want to "bash for sport", but I'd like to see them address things that people are actually complaining about first...)

Dell does have pretty good documentation on how to remove and install various components in all of their laptops. See: https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/en-us/g-series-17-7790-laptop/g7-17-service-manual/before-working-inside-your-computer?guid=guid-5d3b1051-9384-409a-8d5b-9b53bd496de8&lang=en-us

As a VMware guy, I can't speak to VirtualBox but I can say that I've used various versions of Ubuntu and Linux Mint in VMware Workstation and never had an issue with "snappiness". VMware Workstation has supported GPU acceleration in Linux guests for a while now, and I remember noticing when they added it that it definitely helps with desktop responsiveness. The code (kernel modules, etc.) is open source so many major distros include it in-box. If they do not, you can look for an "open VM tools" package for said distro and install that. (This package should also provide things you'd expect like copy/paste synchronization between host and guest. You should not have to run the script that VMware provides that tries to compile VMware Tools.) As you probably know, VMware Workstation has a paid "pro" version, and also a "free" version ("VMware Workstation Player"). I do have the pro version so I'm not that familiar with the limitations of the free "Player" version — does it still not allow you to create/edit VMs, only run them? If that's the case, I can let you in on a "trick". Grab a trial version of VMware Workstation Pro and it will install both "Pro" and "Player" (as separate apps on the Start Menu). Even after the trial expires, you can use "Pro" to create and manage VMs. It doesn't actually give you an error about needing a license until you try to run a VM. You can just run the VMs in "Player".

Once I have it mostly cleaned up (fixed up links and such), I will make an archive available to NBR regulars who would like to keep an offline copy. If something happens that prevents me from hosting NBRCHIVE, someone else could take that over.

I came to the same conclusion as @Mr. Fox, but more recently... I hopped on the LTSC train about three months ago. At least LTSC 2021 is current so you can play any game on there (for now). And the situation might be better for this cycle as there will be a lot of people sticking with Windows 10 — Microsoft saw to that by only allowing PCs from 2018 and up to upgrade to 11. Anyway, if there is a game that requires a newer version than the current LTSC that I am particularly interested in then it will just go to my backlog and I'll get to it after the next upgrade is out. Really, it was a small number of games that couldn't run on LTSC 2019 so I'm not expecting this to be much of an issue.

Also working with Precision 7560 (confirmed by @Ionising_Radiation). It will probably work with most Dell systems with the undervolt block. https://www.nbrchive.net/forum.notebookreview.com/threads/precision-7560-7760-owners-thread.836381/page-80.html#post-11114871 — Points back to the same guide that you have here. (Apologies for broken images, haven't gotten to cleaning up attachments in the archive yet.)

See: https://efgxt.net/topic/121-and-nbr-is-dead/?do=findComment&comment=1339

In that case it does not appear to have gone through yet, or if it has, GoDaddy has not yet released the domain. (It does not appear to have changed hands since January 26.) I'll keep an eye on this for the next few days and see if it opens up — but it may well be snapped up by a bot if it does. [Edit] After reading some I do not think that GoDaddy will release it back for anyone to purchase without being prompted to do so by its previous owner, at least not for a while. They might auction it off with a big pile of domains 😕

Unless Spartan has already handed it off to someone else, then he still owns it until January 26, 2024... Someone would have to reach out to him to have it transferred. (whois data shows that it was purchased January 26, 2022 for a two-year term.)

With the "Inverted" theme, I can't see text in a "code" block. It is black text against a dark gray background. Example: The block at the top of @Vasudev's post here. https://efgxt.net/topic/171-which-thermal-paste-to-buy-and-apply-traditional-and-liquid-metal/ The offending CSS seems to be this, the ".pln" class which sets the text to black. Maybe just change it to #fff?

Windows 11 is "good enough"... most people who use it will be just fine. There aren't really any issues with backwards compatibility so apps and devices that work with Windows 10 should by and large also work fine with Windows 11. It's actually quite good on the stability front as well, despite some snafus early on. I have very real issues with it that have prevented me from moving over. It's less an issue with "Windows 11 is unsuitable for daily use", and more an issue with how Microsoft is just handling the release — by rushing it out with bugs, power user feature regressions, unnecessary system requirements hike, their desperation to get users on Edge, working to monetize Windows end users through data collection tied up in their Start Menu "recommendations system" and Edge eCommerce "features", and failing to deliver on promised features which has them now introducing post-launch behavior/UI changes in the required monthly patches (a "no-no" for the business environment). I'm not bashing for sport. I wanted to like it. I've been among the first to hop up to each new version of Windows since XP, and have helped many other users with upgrades as well over the years, but this just goes too far for me. Maybe my "ideals" of what an OS should be (and not be) are too high for the way that the PC ecosystem has shifted. Anyway. I'm working on an in-depth post/article further expanding on my "short version" linked above in which I will explain my position more clearly, and which I will share here in a few days. (I've been getting a lot of "should I upgrade to Windows 11?" questions over the last days/weeks, from people both online and IRL, and I need something to point to without having to explain myself over and over 😀.) [Edit] In-depth post here.

Finished cleaning up "dead links" in the XFA-downloaded threads. Everything might not be "done" yet but at least clicking different things like the date, permalink, user posts count, etc. won't throw you to a 404 page. Submitted to Google for indexing; might start seeing results tomorrow. Next goal is adding "View this thread at archive.org" links to each thread, which probably can be done tomorrow. Then I will take a stab at adding pagination to the XFA-downloaded threads so that very long threads won't kill the browser. That will be later in the week.

1.7.0 on Precision 7560 for a few weeks now, and no issues. I think going direct would be fine as well.

+1. I'll be the first one to say that Microsoft is taking a bit of a "shady" direction with Windows lately, but they've never reneged on their support timeline commitment for Windows and I do not expect them to in the future. Aside from the business considerations as @Sandy Bridge mentioned, there's also the fact that there are a number of systems out there that are running Windows 10 but don't meet the "requirements" to upgrade to Windows 11. Support for those systems will be dead after 2025 and cutting support off early would make things even more sour than they already are on this point. Windows 11 hasn't really seen slow adoption. They have a 16% install base (counting just Windows 10+11 PCs) and I think that's pretty decent, given that it's only been out for a few months and are still in a phase where they aren't "forcing" it on users yet. (That'd be when they start doing popups and stuff with not-so-obvious "No thanks" buttons.)

Dell has some packages hosted in an archive at dell.archive.canonical.com that aren't included in a standard Ubuntu install. Some of them provide hardware-specific support for Dell laptops (fingerprint reader, etc.). Nothing stopping you from adding that package source to apt and pulling stuff down. I'm not sure if there is anything else "different" between a stock Ubuntu install and a Dell one — I haven't messed with Linux much outside of VMs in quite some time. But it looks like they have a fair amount of documentation, and from here you can download the image to reinstall Ubuntu for a system that came with it installed.

Windows 10 LTSC 2021 (IoT Enterprise, 21H2) is supported until January 2032. https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/release-health/release-information I'm curious what a LTSC version of Windows 11 will look like, but that's what I'm waiting for before considering an upgrade.

Yes, not really sure how beneficial all of that drilling was but it didn't hurt anything at least. I didn't find it to be that difficult but it was time consuming and my back hurt a bit after bending over for so long 😕.

I always make an image of the drive when I get a new system, before I boot up the OS for the first time. (Never have used it for anything, but seems worthwhile to have "just in case".) Macrium Reflect is a piece of free software that you can use to do the initial partition backup. You can create bootable media (USB or DVD), and just boot that and create an image of the system drive from there. You'll need a place to store it (external hard drive or something). Clean Windows 10 install is pretty easy on these guys, if you are comfortable doing that sort of thing, there is nothing really surprising. You can get all of the drivers from Dell (dell.com/support), but really, if you get a Wi-Fi or Ethernet driver and then connect it to the Internet, it will pull down nearly everything automatically via Windows Update.