*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D

[Papusan]

16 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

It looks good and I have no doubt it is going to be great. I won't know with 100% certainty until it is hooked up, but there is no reason to expect anything short of excellent.

Water will stay a lot longer in the Mo-ra due it's internal design so it should cool better. But you pay a higher price for this feature. Looking forwards to see your finished setup bro Fox🙂

 

 

25 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Getting a little bit closer. Banshee isn't going to have to swim in his on own radiator farts too much longer.

 

[tps3443]

6 minutes ago, Papusan said:

Water will stay a lot longer in the Mo-ra due it's internal design so it should cool better. But you pay a higher price for this feature. Looking forwards to see your finished setup bro Fox🙂

 

 

They’re not round tube design like the Mora3’s. But hey! It’s $130 dollars lol. I have (2) of them, and I’ll eventually get around to running both. But the truth is one alone has been very sufficient. Right now I’m running my 13900KF at 5.8/4.5/4.8 with 1.285V in the bios, with 25.5c water I reach a maximum of 80C on my CPU during R23. Can’t beat that. 

[Papusan]

7 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

They’re not round tube design like the Mora3’s. But hey! It’s $130 dollars lol. I have (2) of them, and I’ll eventually get around to running both. But the truth is one alone has been very sufficient. Right now I’m running my 13900KF at 5.8/4.5/4.8 with 1.285V in the bios, with 25.5c water I reach a maximum of 80C on my CPU during R23. Can’t beat that. 

Yep, they are cheaper. But you get a  lot for the money. I often buy used parts to cut costs. More expensive doesn't always provide a huge gain. Some want the most expensive parts even if the gain is minimal. 

[electrosoft]

3 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

FWIW I have always had better temps with the stock IHS than I have with the Rockitcool copper IHS. I have used them to avoid destroying the markings on the stock IHS, but the temps are usually a degree or two higher. I always looked at it like I already shaved 10-20°C off the load temps by delidding, so I can  afford to take a step backwards 1 or 2°C for the purpose of keeping the stock IHS like new.

 

3 hours ago, tps3443 said:

Check out my temps after the relid and seal using the stock IHS. I am very very impressed by this! Water temp as you can see is 25C. I have also had bad luck with using copper IHS's. I tried them with 7980XE, and an 8086K. They just suck.. Stock IHS is KING! Anyways, this delid helped core to core temps drastically. I also reglued the IHS, and made it looks as clean as it can be. It looks OEM 100%. I am happy again with it at least. This is the best the temps have ever been. I’m using TF7 thermal paste too which is surprising how good my temps are. 



 

 

I only use copper / aftermarket IHS for laptops if they provide a bit of extra height for poor heatsinks. Outside of that, it is always the stock IHS on desktops just with a good smattering of delids when needed.

 

Glad things ended up working out.

 

 

[Etern4l]

@tps3443 @Mr. Fox Really cool stuff (punt mildly intended). With all said and done optimally, what temp reductions vs equivalent IHS cooling did you achieve after delidding (given equivalent paste on the IHS and same cooling solution)

[Mr. Fox]

11 hours ago, Etern4l said:

@tps3443 @Mr. Fox Really cool stuff (punt mildly intended). With all said and done optimally, what temp reductions vs equivalent IHS cooling did you achieve after delidding (given equivalent paste on the IHS and same cooling solution)

For the first time ever, for me, none that I can identify. I have always seen measurable benefits (10-20°C cooled in severe overclocks conditions) from it until now. I would love to think that it is because Intel finally mastered the soldering process and totally nailed it, but I'm not certain that there is a reason to believe that. It's very weird that it didn't change anything except avoiding my warranty and an IHS that got damaged (repairable) in the process. I would have been happy even if it were only 5°C cooler. The lack of change is weird and unexplainable. It was very beneficial on 12th Gen.

[johnksss]

So I got my board back from RMA and the seem to have repaired it. I also noticed that this is the difference between EVGA, Asus and MSI. EVGA seems like they take a quick look and cant find the issue so they issue you another item. While MSI and ASUS actually repair the item and send it back(If they cant repair, then they send a different item for replacement), thus taking forever to get. I have two little arrow stickers pointing to the second USB port on my board which seems to be what they repaired. I have not plugged anything in that port as of yet.😂

[Clamibot]

31 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

For the first time ever, for me, none that I can identify. I have always seen measurable benefits (10-20°C cooled in severe overclocks conditions) from it until now. I would love to think that it is because Intel finally mastered the soldering process and totally nailed it, but I'm not certain that there is a reason to believe that. It's very weird that it didn't change anything except avoiding my warranty and an IHS that got damaged (repairable) in the process. I would have been happy even if it were only 5°C cooler. The lack of change is weird and unexplainable. It was very beneficial on 12th Gen.

 

What about running direct die? Surely that would yield a significant improvement in temperatures still.

[Papusan]

Mobile processors follow the same paths as for laptop graphics cards. Worse performance vs desktop counter parts. Worse in every way. Laptop jockey's will lose more and more performance than needed for each new gen HW.
More here... 

 

A small note. Today, Sunday Nov 13, is the Father's Day here in Norway. Already started on the cake (5:52 AM so good night) 🙂

[Mr. Fox]

6 hours ago, Clamibot said:

 

What about running direct die? Surely that would yield a significant improvement in temperatures still.

Yes, it would be great. The problem is I do not think anyone makes a bare die frame yet. I don't want to leave the CPU loose in the socket because the risk of bending pins is too great. And, I don't want to strap it down with Kapton tape. Even though that will work, I don't like the ghetto duct tape, bailing wire and chewing gum can fix anything approach. Based on how well the 10th Gen Supercool Computer bare die block worked I was excited about using it for 12th Gen, but the 12th Gen version of it sucked. Probably tried to repeat the design for 10th Gen on 12th Gen and it didn't cool the CPU worth a darn.

---

OK, a bit of an update. I am learning to how overclock DDR5 on an ASUS mobo and that's not as user-friendly as MSI and EVGA. Work in process on that.

 

I stayed up all night (haven't been to sleep since Thursday night (LOL) modifying everything. Almost there. I love how much room there is in the 5000D now. It should be large enough to have this much space loaded with dual 360 or dual 480 radiators in push/pull  with two pumps and reservoirs. Small cases suck real bad. I know some people view the 5000D as "big" and they are entitled to have an opinion, but it is a  mid-tower and they are never big enough. Nice case, but small enough to make it suck.

 

I need to replace the tubing on the return line with something more rigid. The Corsair soft tubing is super soft, which is nice to work with. But, it is too soft and collapses on the return line with both D5 pumps running. I guess the flow is high enough that the tubing is too soft to hold its shape. Also, the way I was planning to power the external radiator pumps and fans didn't work. It couldn't handle the power draw needs. So, I am going to have to use a separate PSU like I did on the MO-RA setup. I ordered a cheap one on Amazon for that and should have it tomorrow. For now, I ran a spare SATA and molex cable from the internal PSU outside of the case for the pumps and fans and have the side panel off to accommodate that until I have the cheap PSU from Amazon.

 

Here are some photos. Once I have everything the way I want it I will post more. The radiator will be behind the case instead of in front of it like it is at the moment.

 

The 1080 Nova is a nice setup for the price. It lacks the quality of the MO-RA, but based on price I cannot complain. The housing is both good and bad. I am glad I bought it, but it's kind of rough around the edges (literally). The scratches showing on the desktop were cause by those sharp edges. You get what you pay for in terms of finish quality.

 

[Papusan]

27 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Yes, it would be great. The problem is I do not think anyone makes a bare die frame yet. I don't want to leave the CPU loose in the socket because the risk of bending pins is too great. And, I don't want to strap is down with Kapton tape. Even though that will work, I don't like the ghetto duct tape, bailing wire and chewing gum can fix anything approach. Based on how well the 10th Gen Supercool Computer bare die block worked I was excited about using it for 12th Gen, but the 12th Gen version of it sucked. Probably tried to repeat the design for 10th Gen on 12th Gen and it didn't cool the CPU worth a darn.

---

OK, a bit of an update. I am learning to how overclock DDR5 on an ASUS mobo and that's not as user-friendly as MSI and EVGA. Work in process on that.

 

I stayed up all night (haven't been to sleep since Thursday night (LOL) modifying everything. Almost there. I love how much room there is in th 5000D now. It should be large enough to have this much space loaded with dual 360 or dual 480 radiators in push/pull  with two pumps and reservoirs. Small cases suck real bad. I know some people view the 5000D as "big" and they are entitled to have an opinion, but it is a  mid-tower and they are never big enough. Nice case, but small enough to make it suck.

 

I need to replace the tubing on the return line with something more rigid. The Corsair soft tubing is super soft, which is nice to work with. But, it is too soft and collapses on the return line with both D5 pumps running. I guess the flow is high enough that the tubing is too soft to hold its shape. Also, the way I was planning to power the external radiator pumps and fans didn't work. It couldn't handle the power draw needs. So, I am going to have to use a separate PSU like I did on the MO-RA setup. I ordered a cheap one on Amazon for that and should have it tomorrow. For now, I ran a spare SATA and molex cable from the internal PSU outside of the case for the pumps and fans and have the side panel off to accommodate that until I have the cheap PSU from Amazon.

 

Here are some photos. Once I have everything the way I wanted I will post more. The radiator will be behind the case instead of in front of it like it is at the moment.

 

The 1080 Nova is a nice setup for the price. It lacks the quality of the MO-RA, but based on price I cannot complain. The housing is both good and bad. I am glad I bought it, but it's kind of rough around the edges (literally). The scratches showing on the desktop were cause by those sharp edges. You get what you pay for in terms of finish quality.

 

Beautiful setup bro Fox. But all white lights would be better 🙂 

 

 

The beauty is put in the details (picture). Will Nvidia try a new redesigned power adapter/connector before they change the vBios? Or will they just jump directly on the firmware? 

 

 

Fully Connected 16-Pin Connector On The NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Ends Up Melting Too
https://wccftech.com/fully-connected-16-pin-connector-on-the-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4090-ends-up-melting-too/

Nvidia ‘still investigating’ RTX 4090 12VHPWR adapter issues
https://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/matthew-wilson/nvidia-still-investigating-rtx-4090-12vhpwr-adapter-issues/

Unfortunately, the update doesn't contain many details. In discussions with Nvidia PR, we were told: “We continue to investigate the reports, however, we don’t have further details to share yet. NVIDIA and our partners are committed to supporting our customers and ensuring an expedited RMA process for them”.

[Mr. Fox]

7 minutes ago, Papusan said:

Beautiful setup bro Fox. But all white lights would be better 🙂

Thank you. They are all white. -?- Do you see another color that I am missing? The only thing not white that I can see is the ASUS trademark ugly red Q-code LED. I wish that was white like EVGA.

 

Here is an ASUS "AI Overclock" LOL. Good, but not great. Got to love that gamerboy AI crap.

 

 

[Papusan]

22 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

Thank you. They are all white. -?- Do you see another color that I am missing? The only thing not white that I can see is the ASUS trademark ugly red Q-code LED. I wish that was white like EVGA.

 

 

Hehe. For me it looks more light bluish White 🙂 Maybe the picture lure me. And yep, Asus should made an option so you could swap to white Q-code LED. Let it be red default but people should be able to change color. 

 

Edit. Checked also the pict on my phone. For me it look as llight blue White color. Also the clear tubing may lure me. I prefer all black and some white lights. Quite sure the tubing is to blame for the weird color (at least it looks weird for me).

 

Yep the reflection from everything in the chassis may change somewhat the colors. Could also be the shadows. But when I see directly in the fans (part of it in the middle, not senter) I can see more or less white lights. 

 

Probably, the ligts and shadows from the photo shoot that melt into together. Even the water in the tubes have same bluish colors.  Dificult for me to explain it better.

 

The color in the chassis reminds me more about this...

[Mr. Fox]

3 hours ago, Papusan said:

Hehe. For me it looks more light bluish White 🙂 Maybe the picture lure me. And yep, Asus should made an option so you could swap to white Q-code LED. Let it be red default but people should be able to change color. 

 

Edit. Checked also the pict on my phone. For me it look as llight blue White color. Also the clear tubing may lure me. I prefer all black and some white lights. Quite sure the tubing is to blame for the weird color (at least it looks weird for me).

 

Yep the reflection from everything in the chassis may change somewhat the colors. Could also be the shadows. But when I see directly in the fans (part of it in the middle, not senter) I can see more or less white lights. 

 

Probably, the ligts and shadows from the photo shoot that melt into together. Even the water in the tubes have same bluish colors.  Dificult for me to explain it better.

 

The color in the chassis reminds me more about this...

Maybe it is the blue antifreeze I am using in the loop is affecting the camera rendering. It is definitely only white lights when viewed in real life

---

Weird having to relearn everything, but gettng thetr little by little.

[Etern4l]

14 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

For the first time ever, for me, none that I can identify. I have always seen measurable benefits (10-20°C cooled in severe overclocks conditions) from it until now. I would love to think that it is because Intel finally mastered the soldering process and totally nailed it, but I'm not certain that there is a reason to believe that. It's very weird that it didn't change anything except avoiding my warranty and an IHS that got damaged (repairable) in the process. I would have been happy even if it were only 5°C cooler. The lack of change is weird and unexplainable. It was very beneficial on 12th Gen.

 

That sucks a bit, but at least you didn't damage the CPU. TBH It wouldn't surprise me if they did master it, since it seems like such an extremely trivial and obvious thing to do given the power involved, and contrasting the challenge with the overall complexity of the CPU manufacturing process. Maybe they didn't care before but with 8 more cores and powers exceeding 300W some manager finally approved an extra $1 (we'd assume, but who knows, perhaps it's $2) spend per unit on a better soldering process.

[Rage Set]

15 hours ago, Mr. Fox said:

Yes, it would be great. The problem is I do not think anyone makes a bare die frame yet. I don't want to leave the CPU loose in the socket because the risk of bending pins is too great. And, I don't want to strap it down with Kapton tape. Even though that will work, I don't like the ghetto duct tape, bailing wire and chewing gum can fix anything approach. Based on how well the 10th Gen Supercool Computer bare die block worked I was excited about using it for 12th Gen, but the 12th Gen version of it sucked. Probably tried to repeat the design for 10th Gen on 12th Gen and it didn't cool the CPU worth a darn.

---

OK, a bit of an update. I am learning to how overclock DDR5 on an ASUS mobo and that's not as user-friendly as MSI and EVGA. Work in process on that.

 

I stayed up all night (haven't been to sleep since Thursday night (LOL) modifying everything. Almost there. I love how much room there is in the 5000D now. It should be large enough to have this much space loaded with dual 360 or dual 480 radiators in push/pull  with two pumps and reservoirs. Small cases suck real bad. I know some people view the 5000D as "big" and they are entitled to have an opinion, but it is a  mid-tower and they are never big enough. Nice case, but small enough to make it suck.

 

I need to replace the tubing on the return line with something more rigid. The Corsair soft tubing is super soft, which is nice to work with. But, it is too soft and collapses on the return line with both D5 pumps running. I guess the flow is high enough that the tubing is too soft to hold its shape. Also, the way I was planning to power the external radiator pumps and fans didn't work. It couldn't handle the power draw needs. So, I am going to have to use a separate PSU like I did on the MO-RA setup. I ordered a cheap one on Amazon for that and should have it tomorrow. For now, I ran a spare SATA and molex cable from the internal PSU outside of the case for the pumps and fans and have the side panel off to accommodate that until I have the cheap PSU from Amazon.

 

Here are some photos. Once I have everything the way I want it I will post more. The radiator will be behind the case instead of in front of it like it is at the moment.

 

The 1080 Nova is a nice setup for the price. It lacks the quality of the MO-RA, but based on price I cannot complain. The housing is both good and bad. I am glad I bought it, but it's kind of rough around the edges (literally). The scratches showing on the desktop were cause by those sharp edges. You get what you pay for in terms of finish quality.

 

 

Since you are (were?) a MORA owner, have you ever splice your fingers on the fins? One day I was moving one of my MORA radiators and held onto it partly by the fins on top. I dusted it and the fans. I went to go wash my hands and I noticed that four of my fingers had tons of cuts on them. The cuts didn't really hurt but I couldn't believe the number of fine cuts I had on them. 

 

Great looking setup bro. I am thinking of buying the 7000D or Define 7 XL. I am not sure which one I may get. It needs to house a water cooled 13900K/3090 setup. 

[Papusan]

Jayz think Nvidia can't handle a class action lawsuit. Better Nvidia being damn quiet about the burning 4090 Hell right now 🙂

 

From 16:30

 

 

And Nvidia trust own fire adapters more than real cables from 3rd party vendors. Isn't that cute?😀

 

"I tried again to see if another Nvidia rep will give me a different answer but I received the same statement "Please do not buy any third party cable. It may void your warranty".

 

Nvidia on Cablemods "Please do not buy any third party cable. It may void warranty"

[Mr. Fox]

2 hours ago, Rage Set said:

 

Since you are (were?) a MORA owner, have you ever splice your fingers on the fins? One day I was moving one of my MORA radiators and held onto it partly by the fins on top. I dusted it and the fans. I went to go wash my hands and I noticed that four of my fingers had tons of cuts on them. The cuts didn't really hurt but I couldn't believe the number of fine cuts I had on them. 

 

Great looking setup bro. I am thinking of buying the 7000D or Define 7 XL. I am not sure which one I may get. It needs to house a water cooled 13900K/3090 setup. 

Thank you. 

 

Yes, I have cut my fingers on the fins, but not in a long time because they are covered with fans on both sides now. But, they are like razor blades.

 

I used a 300W Flex ATX PSU for the external setup. That worked out pretty well. I am tempted to cut off all of the wires I do not need. But, other than the excess wiring I think it turned out nice. For now I am keeping it in front of the case rather than moving it behind the case as originally planned. 

[KING19]

On 11/11/2022 at 6:05 PM, Mr. Fox said:

Tiny, but measurable. https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/32438399/spy/32438674

 

Not bad!.

 

I do notice some FPS gains in DX12 games like Cyberpunk 2077. At first i thought only RTX GPUs will have increased performance in DX12. Cant complain about free performance gains 😁

[Mr. Fox]

OK, I guess I had better hit the sack. I still need to do something about the RAM cooling. It is getting too hot for 6800, so I dialed it back to 6200 with 1.400V. Either a fan or a block. At this point I am thinking a block for the permanent solution and a fan for temporary measures. 

 

But, CPU and GPU are running much cooler now. Ran an AIDA64 stress test for a half hour and it's looking real good. 72°C max core temp sucking down 400W+ for 30 minutes ain't too shabby.

 

[Etern4l]

2 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

OK, I guess I had better hit the sack. I still need to do something about the RAM cooling. It is getting too hot for 6800, so I dialed it back to 6200 with 1.400V. Either a fan or a block. At this point I am thinking a block for the permanent solution and a fan for temporary measures. 

 

But, CPU and GPU are running much cooler now. Ran an AIDA64 stress test for a half hour and it's looking real good. 72°C max core temp sucking down 400W+ for 30 minutes ain't too shabby.

 

 

Re RAM cooling, I bought this gizmo called Corsair Vengeance Airflow. Silent and 8-10C lower temps. 

[Mr. Fox]

19 minutes ago, Etern4l said:

 

Re RAM cooling, I bought this gizmo called Corsair Vengeance Airflow. Silent and 8-10C lower temps. 

Yes, they work really well. I had one of those and, if memory serves me correctly, it went to Brother @Rage Setwith a Corsair memory kit that it originally came with. The cost is comparable to a waterblock since I already have the water cooling jackets on the modules. (If I had to buy those as well, the Corsair fan would be a lot more affordable.) I could also bolt an aluminum heat sink to the top of the water cooling jackets as I had done before. Decisions, decisions.

 

I ended up replacing the Barrow red and blue QDC fittings with some threaded Alphacool fittings I had purchased some time ago and never used. I actually like them and may purchase them again. I'll decide next time I take them apart based on whether or not they leak, and how much. I think the Barrow QDCs were restrictive enough that they were contributing to the wet noodle Corsair tubing collapsing on itself on the return line side of the loop. I think the QDCs were not able to pass as much water as fast as the pumps were sucking it up.

 

[jaybee83]

On 11/12/2022 at 8:44 AM, Papusan said:

Yep, they are cheaper. But you get a  lot for the money. I often buy used parts to cut costs. More expensive doesn't always provide a huge gain. Some want the most expensive parts even if the gain is minimal. 

 

say whaaaa...? who does that? literally NOBODY i know, especially not around here 🤣

 

On 11/13/2022 at 3:15 AM, johnksss said:

So I got my board back from RMA and the seem to have repaired it. I also noticed that this is the difference between EVGA, Asus and MSI. EVGA seems like they take a quick look and cant find the issue so they issue you another item. While MSI and ASUS actually repair the item and send it back(If they cant repair, then they send a different item for replacement), thus taking forever to get. I have two little arrow stickers pointing to the second USB port on my board which seems to be what they repaired. I have not plugged anything in that port as of yet.😂

 

oh damn, that seemed super fast! i guess theres pros to both approaches, since it would be a waste to just throw away every item coming in and replace it with a new one. but i could imagine that EVGA tries to repair those items in the background while sending out a fully tested and functional one to avoid making the customer wait too long. Asus seems to be going the "1 for 1" route, where the customer gets EXACTLY the same item back unless its absolutely not repairable.

 

speaking of Asus, still waiting on the cashback for my X670E board, lets see when that arrives... been roughly a month now 😅

 

On 11/13/2022 at 6:28 AM, Papusan said:

Beautiful setup bro Fox. But all white lights would be better 🙂 

 

 

The beauty is put in the details (picture). Will Nvidia try a new redesigned power adapter/connector before they change the vBios? Or will they just jump directly on the firmware? 

 

 

Fully Connected 16-Pin Connector On The NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Ends Up Melting Too
https://wccftech.com/fully-connected-16-pin-connector-on-the-nvidia-geforce-rtx-4090-ends-up-melting-too/

Nvidia ‘still investigating’ RTX 4090 12VHPWR adapter issues
https://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/matthew-wilson/nvidia-still-investigating-rtx-4090-12vhpwr-adapter-issues/

Unfortunately, the update doesn't contain many details. In discussions with Nvidia PR, we were told: “We continue to investigate the reports, however, we don’t have further details to share yet. NVIDIA and our partners are committed to supporting our customers and ensuring an expedited RMA process for them”.

 

so first thing i did when coming back from our honeymoon was open up Hyperion and check the gpu power cable 😄 all good though, not even a slight sign of burns / parts melting. also, i liked how super difficult it actually was to unplug the thing, it was 101% fully seated and connected! but definitely will not be doing that checking regularly, dont want to actually cause the thing im trying to avoid lol

its fine that they dont update with more details yet, id prefer a thorough investigation with definitive answers rather than 50 updates with half-assed guesswork (as is currently going on with a lots of parties).

 

On 11/13/2022 at 6:34 AM, Mr. Fox said:

Thank you. They are all white. -?- Do you see another color that I am missing? The only thing not white that I can see is the ASUS trademark ugly red Q-code LED. I wish that was white like EVGA.

 

Here is an ASUS "AI Overclock" LOL. Good, but not great. Got to love that gamerboy AI crap.

 

 

 

hahaha i was also seeing all blue tbh 😄 either way tho, both nice colors 😉 

 

18 hours ago, Papusan said:

Jayz think Nvidia can't handle a class action lawsuit. Better Nvidia being damn quiet about the burning 4090 Hell right now 🙂

 

From 16:30

 

 

And Nvidia trust own fire adapters more than real cables from 3rd party vendors. Isn't that cute?😀

 

"I tried again to see if another Nvidia rep will give me a different answer but I received the same statement "Please do not buy any third party cable. It may void your warranty".

 

Nvidia on Cablemods "Please do not buy any third party cable. It may void warranty"

 

yeah also saw that vid, seems to me that "third party" definition is kinda complex, seeing as CableMod actually worked WITH NVIDIA DIRECTLY in designing their right angle connectors 😄 

i mean, in general this makes sense, i wouldnt wanna warranty my 2k$ product when its being used with 1$ trash accessories from AliExpress and the likes...

[tps3443]

@Mr. Fox

 

I have seen a solid 10C improvement in package temps from my delid and re-seal. I’m using Alphacool 17Mkw thermalpaste on the IHS. CPU is sealed back up and looks like it was never even touched really. Anyways, I’m really happy with it. 
 

I can do 228 watts through R23 (30 Minute test) 5.5 all core and 5.8Ghz boost. CPU runs like 46-52C 😁

 

At first I thought there was not a difference. Because my old screenshots has the water temp sensor reading higher than it was. Well, I realized I didnt even have the temp sensor dipped in water during the older pre-delid screenshots, and it was just reading room temp. 

 

[Mr. Fox]

41 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

haha i was also seeing all blue tbh 😄 either way tho, both nice colors 😉 

 

I am glad it only looks blue in photos. I like blue, but not my favorite for PC lighting. As we all know, that's white. 😄

Also, glad to know your cable wasn't melted.

29 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

@Mr. Fox

 

I have seen a solid 10C improvement in package temps from my delid and re-seal. I’m using Alphacool 17Mkw thermalpaste on the IHS. CPU is sealed back up and looks like it was never even touched really. Anyways, I’m really happy with it. 
 

I can do 228 watts through R23 (30 Minute test) 5.5 all core and 5.8Ghz boost. CPU runs like 46-52C 😁

 

At first I thought there was not a difference. Because my old screenshots has the water temp sensor reading higher than it was. Well, I realized I didnt even have the temp sensor dipped in water during the older pre-delid screenshots, and it was just reading room temp. 

 

That's great. I have some Alphacool paste on order and will receive it whenever my Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos NEXT block arrives. I will pop the lid off the IHS when it is time to set that up. Maybe I was too stingy with the liquid metal. It is totally mysterious to me that the temps didn't change up or down after the delid. It's kind of freaky in a way, and certainly defies logic.

 

I am not sure I understand the correlation of the comments about the water temperature sensor if you are measuring CPU core temps and not thinking there was a difference.