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Talon

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Everything posted by Talon

  1. After building a few rigs recently, I have come to the conclusion that I have far too much spare hardware sitting around. I am wondering when the wife is going to question why I need 3 computers AND a BGA laptop. 😛
  2. Given that this is the first real stab at Intel dGPU mainstream/consumer GPU, I will reserve judgement and give them time to wrinkle things out. Jumping to conclusions based on early Chinese GPU companies that can't even spell "Unknown" correctly isn't something I'm willing to do. I remember when DLSS first came out, it wasn't great, it was blurry and people generally shat all over it. Looking back, all those videos telling Nvidia to give up or move on are hilarious now. I watched a video recently with Tom and Gamers Nexus on Arc and Intel has some interesting ideas. I'm more excited about seeing Intel leaving voltage and power limits available for overclocking. Overclocking on Nvidia today sucks! No voltage control, no fun. Have you seen how much overclocking can do for these new Intel GPUs? It looks like fun to tune/push and it's not even out yet. I expect a lot of improvements from them over time.
  3. @Mr. Fox Do you not have the "Special PMIC Unlock" option in the BIOS to bypass the 1.435v limit on locked PMICs? Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the memory.
  4. https://ibb.co/304QxnL More Non-K overclocking. This time for my new living room PC I just built out of my pile of spare/old parts and a few new. My free RTX 3070 courtesy of the EVGA Buck program ending needed a new home, and the market is flooded with GPUs I figured I'd just keep it and build another rig.
  5. I've had my 1600w T2 from EVGA for a couple years now when I got it as a bundle/coupon offer with a GPU for like $180 or something. Insane value for a such an amazing PSU. I got my email for the KPE 3090 Ti, but I decided to skip this one. My FTW3 3090 Ti is a powerhouse, I don't overclock much right now, and 4000 series is on the the very near horizon. Hell I'm not even sure I need a 40 series card since 3090s are already so powerful for all resolutions outside of 4K or 8K gaming. I'll likely grab one just to mess around with it, but for gaming I can't see it being necessary for me.
  6. Unfortunately I can't remember what I was able to push on that chip and not home to see if I have old screenshots. UncleWebb has provided us with another fix for crap software. I also recently noticed how many resources Windows Defender was tying up and thought it odd. https://www.techpowerup.com/295877/windows-defender-can-significantly-impact-intel-cpu-performance-we-have-the-fix
  7. What I love is the tech tubers eating up and promoting AMD as the company that supports their sockets for extended periods of time blah blah blah. While it is true they now do support all of the Zen chips across the socket this was not always the case and wasn't without massive public outcry and pressure, especially from the tech tubers to get it done. AMD attempted to dump Zen2 support on B450/X370 and only after pushback did they allow support. Then they completely dumped X370/B450 support for Zen3 for a year, and only after sales slumped due to Alder Lake being a success did they decide to backtrack on that and released BIOS updates to support it. AMD isn't a white knight, they're no different than any other company out to maximize profits and drive up share prices. Supporting a CPU family for 2-3 generations vs 2 isn't really that remarkable for most people. Getting newer boards generally does yield some newer features. It can allow for better compatibility and support without the need or headache of chasing down AGESA versions, figuring out why you're still logging thousands of errors or still having USB disconnects.
  8. Just got my new Intel Arc 3 A350M. https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1525083 Destroyed my 3090 Ti score. 😁
  9. Looking like RTX 4090 Ti is going to be here sooner rather than later. They've dropped the prices of all the FTW3 cards to exact same price and now previous Ultra FTW3 is price of the KPE. I don't see a point of buying the card this late in the game unless you're a collector of KP cards.
  10. Next gen I think I'm going full custom water for the CPU, but likely not the GPU since it seems those blocks are a lot less reusable like a CPU block. The Artic cooler was definitely a simple setup and no terrible Corsair software, but the lack of pump control/speed may have been the issue. The rad block was impressive, and may have benefitted from beefier fans to push air through it.
  11. After using the Artic 420mm AIO for a month, I have given up on it being better than my previous 280mm Corsair AIO and decided to try out Corsair again and decide on which to send back. I grabbed a Corsair H170i 420mm AIO "Open Box" on Amazon for a significant discount figuring I could send it back if it was truly defective. It arrived this afternoon and it was BRAND NEW. I think someone returned the item after deciding against it. The factory seal had never been broken and all parts inside the box were still factory wrapped and still had the factory thermal material on the cold plate. Unreal deal! I quickly swapped out the coolers, but not before doing some testing pre and post new cooler. The Artic Liquid Freezer for my setup is decidedly worse. Same thermal paste was used. Same ambient temps controlled with AC. Both kits were using their respective LGA 1700 Kit. The Corsair cooler even had it's gamer boy, hello kitty LCD upgrade attachment which can't help temps. The difference is shocking. Artic 420mm AIO - Corsair 420mm AIO -
  12. Haven't tried the paste myself. Can you please report back with your results and laptop you used? Really curious to see if the paste works as well as the pads.
  13. I can tell you without shred of doubt that W/mK doesn't mean jack. Those ratings depend on a lot of factors. It may be a thermal putty, but it does not look like a putty when it heats up. It creates this thin greasy layer that has some crazy thermal transfer properties for laptops. There is a reason why Lenovo went with this over liquid metal, or liquid metal pads like the other brands are now using. I've used a LM laptop and I wasn't impressed by the OEM job. I have used LM in the past on delidded CPUs and the results are great, and I've also used it on bare die laptops and it definitely works but not that much better than this stuff for all the mess and risk. LM is better, but I would bet it's not more than a 5c difference. This is after I opened the laptop and didn't bother redoing the PTM stuff. I sort pushed more towards the middle and left it. The temps are still great. That is with a 105w sustained load in a HP Omen 16" jokebook. Before doing this the laptop could barely sustain 75w without thermal throttling near 100c. 105w would have immediately shut down lol. No traditional thermal paste even comes close to this stuff regardless of how many W/mK they put on the label.
  14. You cut it out to fit die size and lay it on the die like a blanket. It's kinda sticky stuff that sort of melts in your hands if you handle it too long so you need to kinda place it quickly and not fuss around. I have not experienced any pump out effect. My previous experience with LM was that it would get absorbed into the copper heatsink over time and you would need to reapply it eventually. Then there is the risk of spillage, etc. The Honeywell stuff is expensive, but worth it IMO. I bought the 80x80mm pads and you can easily do a laptop CPU/GPU die a few times with that sheet.
  15. I've been using Honeywell PTM 7950 thermal pads in my laptop on the CPU/GPU for a few months now and the stuff is absolutely incredible. Best temps I've ever had for a laptop outside of using liquid metal, and even then it's better IMO because it doesn't seem to dry out/pump out. I was so impressed with the stuff that I decided to use it on my desktop CPU and that was a huge NO GO. The pad seems to be too thick/mounting pressure isn't sufficient. Or it's almost as if the IHS doesn't let the thermal pad melt properly and acts like a huge insulator. When the pads are used on bare die CPU/GPU it melts and transfers heat like no other. I have not used the paste, but opted for the 0.2mm pads instead. https://www.ebuy7.com/buy/jd/10043742472432 I purchased from this website, not this exact seller but this website. Kinda looked shady but the item arrived in about 10 days. Don't even waste your time with anything else. There is no paste that even comes close to the performance this stuff offers. It's on par with LM with none of the risks.
  16. Pushed the 115w 3070 a bit further with a vBIOS flash. Works 100%. All outs, Advanced Optimus and G-Sync all work and the laptop runs nice and cool with the Honeywell 7950 phase change. https://www.3dmark.com/spy/28094550
  17. vBIOS flash to a higher TDP. HP uses a MUX switch so you need to flash a card with similar display outs and a MUX switch. I think most MSI vBIOS should work since they have Thunderbolt DP, a mini DP, HDMI 2.1 and MUX. https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/241044/241044 This 3060 vBIOS is 115-130w for 11th gen CPU. I would probably use this one myself. Of course you need to know the risks of it not working and needing to flash back. Flash in iGPU mode so you still have the Intel GPU to see if you need to flash back. You should also have the option to use an external display out via the HDMI, Thunderbolt usbc cable or Mini-DP cable. Last resort is a usb/clip programmer if you truly soft brick. Edit: Always make a backup of your original vBIOS and email it to yourself or save on a google drive or similar.
  18. I'll try and give it a fair shake and see if I can manage the cables a tad more, but honestly I am likely to return the case and go with something lighter that has room for the 420mm AIO. The AIO, I may have been a bit too harsh on it initially. Seems like the temps are actually pretty decent and what I am seeing is that the 420mm has the ability to sustain the temps over the long haul which is nice.
  19. Just got the Corsair 7000D and Artic Freezer II 420mm setup and I am.. Less than impressed unfortunately. I really expected such a huge AIO with push/pull fans to perform a bit better than what I am seeing here. It seems to match or barely beat out my Corsair 280mm with push/pull artic fans. And this case is ridiculously huge with very little benefit other than being able to fit a 480mm rad. The cable management system on the back of case is just terrible. They seriously wasted so much space on the front of the case, literally open air, and then force you to somehow manage all of your cables and shut the back with wussy click shuts. It's so terrible. I pulled my hair out trying to get the damn cables to fit and not be bulky enough to open the wimpy door. Lian Li ran circles around this case in that department. They actually thought about cable management and gave adequate space to manage your cables, and then provided a sturdy way to slam those bad boys in there. This is just bad. Why the heck do I need all that space in the front of the rig but seriously bare minimum space to run cables? Ugh, still deciding if I'm going to just break this down and return it. If it wasn't my wifes birthday tomorrow I would likely pull and all nighter and do just that, but I want to be useful tomorrow lol. One upshot is that if someone ever decided to break into my home and wanted to steal this thing, they wouldn't be able to. Seriously this thing is huge and heavy AF. I go to the gym 4-5x a week and my god I am dreading trying to carry this thing to my garage down stairs to give it a bi monthly dust blowing.
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