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Mr. Fox

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Posts posted by Mr. Fox

  1. 5 minutes ago, Rage Set said:

    So it has begun. Nvidia's 4080 has a TGP of 320 but Nvidia has limited it. Apparently, "recently" Nvidia changed how their cards boost. Before, Nvidia's cards would try to adhere to their TDP while under load and even try to go above it, with performance to go with it. Now the TGP is the LIMIT, so with the 4080, it will try to avoid going near the 320W TGP cap. 

     

    I told you guys that Nvidia was going to nerf the power draw of the cards. They haven't figured a way to do it with the 4090 (at least the batches they have already sold) but watch the next batches that make it to the public have different performance deltas compared to the ones people have. They may sneak a vBIOS update in their drivers, you never know. 

    I nicknamed them the "Green Goblin" for very good reason. Making the best video cards doesn't mean that they are good people or good products. (Being the best only means you are the lesser among evils, not that you are good, honest or reliable.) Excepting for maybe EVGA (and even they are a little bit suspect sometimes) none of the technology leaders are trustworthy entities that care about the people that purchase their products. Anyone that thinks Intel, AMD, NVIDIA or any of the manufacturers that sell their licensed technologies are good or honest companies are living in a dream world.

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  2. 2 hours ago, Papusan said:

    Edit. Btw... Asus is equal retarded as well.  Asus should be aware of this stupidity.  Yet, Microsoft want to give you unwanted updates with blessings from Asus software/firmware department. This old buggy bios version have been on Windows servers a long time. Asus could have asked Microsoft to remove it but they don't bother. Asus = Dell nowadays. 

     

    If you have a newer firmware, Microsoft prefer that you update with blessings from Asus. Wahts wrong with todays tech? 

    image.png.11c6568da77ebc97cbe5e98ed8277afa.png

    Yup... Satanic and nefarious at its core. Guess who will pay for the messed up motherboard when the BIOS update from the Redmond Retards goes wrong?

    Spoiler

    Not ASUS

    Spoiler

    Not Micro$lop

    Spoiler

    The end user. Notice I did not use the word "customer" here.

     

     

    ASUS makes products for sheeple. Sheeple trust dishonest goons like ASUS and Micro$lop to do the right thing for them, but they do not. ASUS do not make enthusiast products. They sell products to people that view themselves as enthusiasts. We are a merely a duped commodity. Look no further than the Armory Crate abortion and you can see what kind of imbecile clown possee is running the show at ASUS.

     

    Aqua sells digital garbage to the same group of misguided children. Those silly kids believe they need the bloatware. They are willing to waste money on trash software they don't need because they believe they do.

     

    At least the garbage bloatware from Corsair, NZXT, ASUS and other vendors is provided for free (if you do not count data harvesting as a price). Aqua is "special" so they can charge their silly end users for the privilege of renting software they do not need.

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  3. Price: $650.00 (package deal for CPU, mobo and RAM, see optional add-ons) SOLD

     

    Condition: Excellent

     

    Warranty: None from Seller

     

    Reason for sale: Upgraded Platform

     

    Payment: PayPal, Zelle

     

    Item location: San Tan Valley, AZ

     

    Shipping: Lower 48 US - Negotiable - varies with desired optional items (will discuss with buyer via PM, phone or text)

     

    International shipping: Actual cost plus any taxes, duties, VAT, etc. I am unable to estimate these costs.

     

    Handling time: Next Business Day

     

    Feedback: eBay Profile; OC.net MarketPlace

     

    Combo Package Specifications:

    • ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A WiFi Gaming D4 (original box with accessories included)
    • Intel Core i9-12900K (original retail packaging included) - nice bin quality, delidded and lapped
    • Thermalright CPU Frame (replaces ILM to prevent CPU bending - original ILM also included)
    • G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB Kit DDR4-4000 C15 with aftermarket heat sinks for improved cooling (stable @ 4400 - see screenshots)
      (Note: original heat sinks and retail packaging included. Stock RAM heat sinks are aesthetic only and worse than no heat sink.)

     

    Optional Freebie:

    • EKWB Velocity2 CPU Block (barely used - if buyer is planning a custom loop will be included because I want to reward that behavior)
      Excellent performance, same as OptimusPC CPU block, but focus on aesthetic. Rear mounting was inconvenient for tinkerer like me.
      Designed for LGA 1700 specifically. Please be honest. If you are going to air cool or use an AIO I can sell this to someone else.

     

    Optional Not Free:

    • Alphacool 360mm "Fat" Crossflow Radiator - $70
    • XSPC 240mm "Thin" Radiator - $35
    • Generic 240mm "Fat" Radiators - $25 each (2 available)
      (The generic 240mm radiators are a round tube design and work as well as most 360mm radiators I have owned.)
    • XSPC X4 170MM Photon Pump/Res Combo - $0 will include with crossflow or both generic 240mm rads
      (The X4 has not been used for 2+ years. I am not sure if that affects the pump or not, but Performance-PCS sells X4 pumps for $30. XSPC reservoirs are thick glass and much better than the plexi garbage many tube reservoirs are made of.)


    Radiators will be washed, flushed and dried prior to shipment. They have been used with automotive antifreeze, so they have no corrosion.

     

    If you want all of it, $700 + negotiated shipping cost to a US address will buy it all.


    Here is the obligatory time stamped ownership photo

    Spoiler

    Here is the obligatory time stamped ownership photo

    1876914644_TimeStampOwnership.thumb.jpg.c30f53038c11245db78dfd4f3c7e9b10.jpg

    IMG_20221114_082028.thumb.jpg.847115de8cd788342d89c841f73a9963.jpgIMG_20221114_221524.thumb.jpg.346f5cc3a326337ae4cd6da658a0f6f1.jpgmessages_0.thumb.jpeg.7285cf58cfd03106271f6e89b77d7719.jpegIMG_20221114_212455.thumb.jpg.b4f78527efa8488dc536f61f469f1813.jpgIMG_20221114_212512.thumb.jpg.b64161bb5bbd4a4fdff186ff92f516d6.jpg

    I have two of these...

    IMG_20221114_212111.thumb.jpg.8b426be6431313ee1318cd75d577ee5a.jpgIMG_20221114_212100.thumb.jpg.53480609b17868b5e32f853cd348b920.jpg

     

    12900K_SP92-104P-70E.thumb.JPG.c02bab219d8c6d1db6ea494e04230ce1.JPG221110233626.thumb.jpg.cbaf990358b795b3ad2c6ff5a61382c5.jpg12900K-53_42.46-4400-Cinebench.thumb.png.894c45698660f2c4054e63742f7389e9.png12900K-53_43.46-4400.png.b4f6bd631219464e5f4e99396d576443.png12900K-53_43.46-4400-Timings.thumb.png.3d583a41c808e78c04f0be2e06eb2caa.png

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  4. 1 hour ago, tps3443 said:

    Also, did your IHS spin freely on the die? I lapped my IHS lips until they were all bare copper and a small gap for adhesive was between the substrate and IHS.

    I will check that when I take it apart again. I don't use sealant, only one tiny drop of SuperGlue gel under each wing so I can easily re-delid by dipping the CPU in acetone (dissolving the glue). If I make it have a wide air gap then the SuperGlue gel won't work because it can't fill a wide air gap. That is how I have done it for years with fantastic results.


    Edit: I mentioned before that the design of the copper IHS had changed. I forgot where I had put mine when I stopped using it because it would not fit the CPU frame from Thermalright. I found it. Here is a photo of the original design for 12th Gen. Note the notched sides and wider top surface.

    12th-Gen-Rockitcool.thumb.JPG.80fcc5892ea880fb2ec581fd4af60b17.JPG

    @tps3443

     

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  5. 41 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

    haha i was also seeing all blue tbh 😄 either way tho, both nice colors 😉 

     

    I am glad it only looks blue in photos. I like blue, but not my favorite for PC lighting. As we all know, that's white. 😄

    Also, glad to know your cable wasn't melted.

    29 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

    @Mr. Fox

     

    I have seen a solid 10C improvement in package temps from my delid and re-seal. I’m using Alphacool 17Mkw thermalpaste on the IHS. CPU is sealed back up and looks like it was never even touched really. Anyways, I’m really happy with it. 
     

    I can do 228 watts through R23 (30 Minute test) 5.5 all core and 5.8Ghz boost. CPU runs like 46-52C 😁

     

    At first I thought there was not a difference. Because my old screenshots has the water temp sensor reading higher than it was. Well, I realized I didnt even have the temp sensor dipped in water during the older pre-delid screenshots, and it was just reading room temp. 

     

    That's great. I have some Alphacool paste on order and will receive it whenever my Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos NEXT block arrives. I will pop the lid off the IHS when it is time to set that up. Maybe I was too stingy with the liquid metal. It is totally mysterious to me that the temps didn't change up or down after the delid. It's kind of freaky in a way, and certainly defies logic.

     

    I am not sure I understand the correlation of the comments about the water temperature sensor if you are measuring CPU core temps and not thinking there was a difference.

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  6. 19 minutes ago, Etern4l said:

     

    Re RAM cooling, I bought this gizmo called Corsair Vengeance Airflow. Silent and 8-10C lower temps. 

    Yes, they work really well. I had one of those and, if memory serves me correctly, it went to Brother @Rage Setwith a Corsair memory kit that it originally came with. The cost is comparable to a waterblock since I already have the water cooling jackets on the modules. (If I had to buy those as well, the Corsair fan would be a lot more affordable.) I could also bolt an aluminum heat sink to the top of the water cooling jackets as I had done before. Decisions, decisions.

     

    I ended up replacing the Barrow red and blue QDC fittings with some threaded Alphacool fittings I had purchased some time ago and never used. I actually like them and may purchase them again. I'll decide next time I take them apart based on whether or not they leak, and how much. I think the Barrow QDCs were restrictive enough that they were contributing to the wet noodle Corsair tubing collapsing on itself on the return line side of the loop. I think the QDCs were not able to pass as much water as fast as the pumps were sucking it up.

     

    IMG_20221114_012537.thumb.jpg.76346e13216d7208b927f8556ea7b246.jpg

    1736612297_IMG_20221114_0141321.thumb.jpg.0d2e81cbd4d2a428b92236991f6c7486.jpg

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  7. OK, I guess I had better hit the sack. I still need to do something about the RAM cooling. It is getting too hot for 6800, so I dialed it back to 6200 with 1.400V. Either a fan or a block. At this point I am thinking a block for the permanent solution and a fan for temporary measures. 

     

    But, CPU and GPU are running much cooler now. Ran an AIDA64 stress test for a half hour and it's looking real good. 72°C max core temp sucking down 400W+ for 30 minutes ain't too shabby.

     

    stabilitytest.thumb.png.71267e308edbbf021bb3dbb9479a19bc.png

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  8. 2 hours ago, Rage Set said:

     

    Since you are (were?) a MORA owner, have you ever splice your fingers on the fins? One day I was moving one of my MORA radiators and held onto it partly by the fins on top. I dusted it and the fans. I went to go wash my hands and I noticed that four of my fingers had tons of cuts on them. The cuts didn't really hurt but I couldn't believe the number of fine cuts I had on them. 

     

    Great looking setup bro. I am thinking of buying the 7000D or Define 7 XL. I am not sure which one I may get. It needs to house a water cooled 13900K/3090 setup. 

    Thank you. 

     

    Yes, I have cut my fingers on the fins, but not in a long time because they are covered with fans on both sides now. But, they are like razor blades.

     

    I used a 300W Flex ATX PSU for the external setup. That worked out pretty well. I am tempted to cut off all of the wires I do not need. But, other than the excess wiring I think it turned out nice. For now I am keeping it in front of the case rather than moving it behind the case as originally planned. 

    IMG_20221113_152602.thumb.jpg.12de71e0ed38a6593963ed66221d06b4.jpgIMG_20221113_152616.thumb.jpg.6db56b7366f61a2109528715b936e66a.jpgIMG_20221113_160607.thumb.jpg.8b11f8be513e7052817a9800f7b0a696.jpg

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  9. 3 hours ago, Papusan said:

    Hehe. For me it looks more light bluish White 🙂 Maybe the picture lure me. And yep, Asus should made an option so you could swap to white Q-code LED. Let it be red default but people should be able to change color. 

     

    Edit. Checked also the pict on my phone. For me it look as llight blue White color. Also the clear tubing may lure me. I prefer all black and some white lights. Quite sure the tubing is to blame for the weird color (at least it looks weird for me).

     

    Yep the reflection from everything in the chassis may change somewhat the colors. Could also be the shadows. But when I see directly in the fans (part of it in the middle, not senter) I can see more or less white lights. 

     

    Probably, the ligts and shadows from the photo shoot that melt into together. Even the water in the tubes have same bluish colors.  Dificult for me to explain it better.

     

    The color in the chassis reminds me more about this...

    image.png.c56734fcfd0d018af52f2bcbee929273.png

    Maybe it is the blue antifreeze I am using in the loop is affecting the camera rendering. It is definitely only white lights when viewed in real life


    Weird having to relearn everything, but gettng thetr little by little.

    image.thumb.png.d209218b01c996af02d36108d3ec1628.png

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  10. 7 minutes ago, Papusan said:

    Beautiful setup bro Fox. But all white lights would be better 🙂

    Thank you. They are all white. -?- Do you see another color that I am missing? The only thing not white that I can see is the ASUS trademark ugly red Q-code LED. I wish that was white like EVGA.

     

    Here is an ASUS "AI Overclock" LOL. Good, but not great. Got to love that gamerboy AI crap.

    image_id_2797059.jpg

     

     

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  11. 26 minutes ago, Papusan said:

    And worse it will be bro Fox. Much worse.

     

    Yep, Mobile processors follow same paths as for laptop graphics cards. Worse performance and specs vs desktop counter parts. Worse in all ways. Laptop jockey's will lose more and more performance for each new gen HW.


    Mobile Raptor Lake CPUs may not offer substantial multi-threaded improvements over Alder Lake.

     

    So it seems that, for better or worse, Intel decided these mobile chips did not need more E-cores or P-cores.

     

    Core i7-13700H, Core i5-13500H Retain Same Core Count As Alder Lake Counterparts tomshardware.com
    https://www.tomshardware.com/news/core-i7-13700h-core-i5-13500h-retain-same-core-count-as-alder-lake-counterparts

     

    And you can see the same pathern here as well. Even worse beacuse mobile processors won't get same treatment. Laptop jockey's will also lose performance  if the same mobile Cpu is soldered into a mini Joke Nuc box from Intel...

     

    image.thumb.png.a8f0fb1c167da47808058ea2b85695a7.png

     

    https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/10243/intel-nuc-12-enthusiast-serpent-canyon-sff-pc/index.html

    I would expect nothing less. The target audience puts up with it. As always, we will have whatever the lowest common denominators are willing to tolerate. Laptops suck. That is never going to change. It is what it is. You shouldn't buy a laptop unless you absolutely have to have one. Even then it is a waste of money, just a necessary evil.

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  12. 6 hours ago, Clamibot said:

     

    What about running direct die? Surely that would yield a significant improvement in temperatures still.

    Yes, it would be great. The problem is I do not think anyone makes a bare die frame yet. I don't want to leave the CPU loose in the socket because the risk of bending pins is too great. And, I don't want to strap it down with Kapton tape. Even though that will work, I don't like the ghetto duct tape, bailing wire and chewing gum can fix anything approach. Based on how well the 10th Gen Supercool Computer bare die block worked I was excited about using it for 12th Gen, but the 12th Gen version of it sucked. Probably tried to repeat the design for 10th Gen on 12th Gen and it didn't cool the CPU worth a darn.


    OK, a bit of an update. I am learning to how overclock DDR5 on an ASUS mobo and that's not as user-friendly as MSI and EVGA. Work in process on that.

     

    I stayed up all night (haven't been to sleep since Thursday night (LOL) modifying everything. Almost there. I love how much room there is in the 5000D now. It should be large enough to have this much space loaded with dual 360 or dual 480 radiators in push/pull  with two pumps and reservoirs. Small cases suck real bad. I know some people view the 5000D as "big" and they are entitled to have an opinion, but it is a  mid-tower and they are never big enough. Nice case, but small enough to make it suck.

     

    I need to replace the tubing on the return line with something more rigid. The Corsair soft tubing is super soft, which is nice to work with. But, it is too soft and collapses on the return line with both D5 pumps running. I guess the flow is high enough that the tubing is too soft to hold its shape. Also, the way I was planning to power the external radiator pumps and fans didn't work. It couldn't handle the power draw needs. So, I am going to have to use a separate PSU like I did on the MO-RA setup. I ordered a cheap one on Amazon for that and should have it tomorrow. For now, I ran a spare SATA and molex cable from the internal PSU outside of the case for the pumps and fans and have the side panel off to accommodate that until I have the cheap PSU from Amazon.

     

    Here are some photos. Once I have everything the way I want it I will post more. The radiator will be behind the case instead of in front of it like it is at the moment.

     

    IMG_20221112_191629.thumb.jpg.d3bfe03d7526d26b7024e39f78b6c0f4.jpgIMG_20221112_191900.thumb.jpg.f8ce4a6535127b86d283e4204b2a0bb8.jpgIMG_20221112_191930.thumb.jpg.43ec8c92157fe161485923baad3cc887.jpgIMG_20221112_192028.thumb.jpg.ad3c319a6a7e50009d65820b9fc52437.jpgIMG_20221112_192832.thumb.jpg.ed8b6b764f14713b7ddd437ce7805f54.jpgIMG_20221112_192851.thumb.jpg.1428480fa7b82ba7136c516115b1eb65.jpg

    The 1080 Nova is a nice setup for the price. It lacks the quality of the MO-RA, but based on price I cannot complain. The housing is both good and bad. I am glad I bought it, but it's kind of rough around the edges (literally). The scratches showing on the desktop were cause by those sharp edges. You get what you pay for in terms of finish quality.

     

    • Like 7
  13. 11 hours ago, Etern4l said:

    @tps3443 @Mr. Fox Really cool stuff (punt mildly intended). With all said and done optimally, what temp reductions vs equivalent IHS cooling did you achieve after delidding (given equivalent paste on the IHS and same cooling solution)

    For the first time ever, for me, none that I can identify. I have always seen measurable benefits (10-20°C cooled in severe overclocks conditions) from it until now. I would love to think that it is because Intel finally mastered the soldering process and totally nailed it, but I'm not certain that there is a reason to believe that. It's very weird that it didn't change anything except avoiding my warranty and an IHS that got damaged (repairable) in the process. I would have been happy even if it were only 5°C cooler. The lack of change is weird and unexplainable. It was very beneficial on 12th Gen.

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  14. 7 minutes ago, tps3443 said:


    This is the solution 100%. ^^^

     

    I was already in the process. Before I read your post. I polished the inside up the IHS with Fritz. Sanded down the lip of the IHS so it spun on the die like silk. Then LMed the inner IHS until it was soaked to the max and reach an equilibrium. LMed the die and rubbed it to death so I know it’ll be good and painted on to the die, and it’ll last longer than the life of the chip. I put my adhesive in tiny dabs on the corners and wings then I put it in the relidding clamp. Which does seem to line it up properly at least. 
     

    AFF42-B6-D-D562-43-E5-A5-EB-1-DCE0-B1407
     

     

    FWIW I have always had better temps with the stock IHS than I have with the Rockitcool copper IHS. I have used them to avoid destroying the markings on the stock IHS, but the temps are usually a degree or two higher. I always looked at it like I already shaved 10-20°C off the load temps by delidding, so I can  afford to take a step backwards 1 or 2°C for the purpose of keeping the stock IHS like new.

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  15. 2 hours ago, tps3443 said:

    I seriously regret deliding my 13900KF everything went smooth with that, but it’s other stuff that ruins the experience and makes me question that decision. What a waste of time and money this has been. I spent $90 dollars with shipping for a delid tool and IHS to run it the proper way. And Rockitcool is just an idiot for not even test fitting their Copper IHS inside of the bend correction frames to begin with. I mean, they are just complete idiots for selling this stuff at all, do they not realize that people could potentially destroy their processors just by mounting their crap IHS with a thermal right bend frame? No matter what I do, I always end up running something ghetto in the end I swear lol. Delidding my cpu wasn’t enough, I’ve got to file down the pretty copper IHS to make it fit at all. Once I filed it down to make it fit the Bending frame. The bending frame holes do not line up with the motherboard holes. So now I can’t screw down my CPU at all..

     

    As always here we are. My cpu is running in my PC, but I have (4) screws in my hand. Can anyone guess what screws those are lol? 
     

     

    ROCKITCOOL YOU SUCK! I’m gonna run out of liquid metal continuously removing my cpu and remounting like a crazy person and discovering another issue yet again. 
     

    I’m about to ditch the IHS all together and try that. No ILM, no frame, just bare die on block.. That worked great with my past CPU’s. And I have it running at the moment only an IHS and frame that’s not even screwed down under my water block. No memory channel issues, or anything like that. Only my water block presses my cpu down and it’s working on the first try. 

    We'll talk about the people that told you that it fits right... How smart are they? Yeah you lost a little bit of money but I think it probably sucks more to be them. Did the delid tool bugger up your stock IHS like it did all of mine? It almost seems like Intel improved their soldering process because delidding helped my 12th Gen processors as much as it did all the prior generations.. 

     

    Just put the stock IHS back on and be done with it.

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