Mr. Fox

OK, I guess I had better hit the sack. I still need to do something about the RAM cooling. It is getting too hot for 6800, so I dialed it back to 6200 with 1.400V. Either a fan or a block. At this point I am thinking a block for the permanent solution and a fan for temporary measures. 

But, CPU and GPU are running much cooler now. Ran an AIDA64 stress test for a half hour and it's looking real good. 72°C max core temp sucking down 400W+ for 30 minutes ain't too shabby.

2 hours ago, Rage Set said:

 

Since you are (were?) a MORA owner, have you ever splice your fingers on the fins? One day I was moving one of my MORA radiators and held onto it partly by the fins on top. I dusted it and the fans. I went to go wash my hands and I noticed that four of my fingers had tons of cuts on them. The cuts didn't really hurt but I couldn't believe the number of fine cuts I had on them. 

 

Great looking setup bro. I am thinking of buying the 7000D or Define 7 XL. I am not sure which one I may get. It needs to house a water cooled 13900K/3090 setup. 

Thank you. 

Yes, I have cut my fingers on the fins, but not in a long time because they are covered with fans on both sides now. But, they are like razor blades.

I used a 300W Flex ATX PSU for the external setup. That worked out pretty well. I am tempted to cut off all of the wires I do not need. But, other than the excess wiring I think it turned out nice. For now I am keeping it in front of the case rather than moving it behind the case as originally planned. 

3 hours ago, Papusan said:

Hehe. For me it looks more light bluish White 🙂 Maybe the picture lure me. And yep, Asus should made an option so you could swap to white Q-code LED. Let it be red default but people should be able to change color. 

 

Edit. Checked also the pict on my phone. For me it look as llight blue White color. Also the clear tubing may lure me. I prefer all black and some white lights. Quite sure the tubing is to blame for the weird color (at least it looks weird for me).

 

Yep the reflection from everything in the chassis may change somewhat the colors. Could also be the shadows. But when I see directly in the fans (part of it in the middle, not senter) I can see more or less white lights. 

 

Probably, the ligts and shadows from the photo shoot that melt into together. Even the water in the tubes have same bluish colors.  Dificult for me to explain it better.

 

The color in the chassis reminds me more about this...

Maybe it is the blue antifreeze I am using in the loop is affecting the camera rendering. It is definitely only white lights when viewed in real life

7 minutes ago, Papusan said:

Beautiful setup bro Fox. But all white lights would be better 🙂

Thank you. They are all white. -?- Do you see another color that I am missing? The only thing not white that I can see is the ASUS trademark ugly red Q-code LED. I wish that was white like EVGA.

Here is an ASUS "AI Overclock" LOL. Good, but not great. Got to love that gamerboy AI crap.

26 minutes ago, Papusan said:

And worse it will be bro Fox. Much worse.

 

Yep, Mobile processors follow same paths as for laptop graphics cards. Worse performance and specs vs desktop counter parts. Worse in all ways. Laptop jockey's will lose more and more performance for each new gen HW.

Mobile Raptor Lake CPUs may not offer substantial multi-threaded improvements over Alder Lake.

 

So it seems that, for better or worse, Intel decided these mobile chips did not need more E-cores or P-cores.

 

Core i7-13700H, Core i5-13500H Retain Same Core Count As Alder Lake Counterparts tomshardware.com
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/core-i7-13700h-core-i5-13500h-retain-same-core-count-as-alder-lake-counterparts

 

And you can see the same pathern here as well. Even worse beacuse mobile processors won't get same treatment. Laptop jockey's will also lose performance  if the same mobile Cpu is soldered into a mini Joke Nuc box from Intel...

 

 

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/10243/intel-nuc-12-enthusiast-serpent-canyon-sff-pc/index.html

I would expect nothing less. The target audience puts up with it. As always, we will have whatever the lowest common denominators are willing to tolerate. Laptops suck. That is never going to change. It is what it is. You shouldn't buy a laptop unless you absolutely have to have one. Even then it is a waste of money, just a necessary evil.

6 hours ago, Clamibot said:

 

What about running direct die? Surely that would yield a significant improvement in temperatures still.

Yes, it would be great. The problem is I do not think anyone makes a bare die frame yet. I don't want to leave the CPU loose in the socket because the risk of bending pins is too great. And, I don't want to strap it down with Kapton tape. Even though that will work, I don't like the ghetto duct tape, bailing wire and chewing gum can fix anything approach. Based on how well the 10th Gen Supercool Computer bare die block worked I was excited about using it for 12th Gen, but the 12th Gen version of it sucked. Probably tried to repeat the design for 10th Gen on 12th Gen and it didn't cool the CPU worth a darn.

OK, a bit of an update. I am learning to how overclock DDR5 on an ASUS mobo and that's not as user-friendly as MSI and EVGA. Work in process on that.

I stayed up all night (haven't been to sleep since Thursday night (LOL) modifying everything. Almost there. I love how much room there is in the 5000D now. It should be large enough to have this much space loaded with dual 360 or dual 480 radiators in push/pull  with two pumps and reservoirs. Small cases suck real bad. I know some people view the 5000D as "big" and they are entitled to have an opinion, but it is a  mid-tower and they are never big enough. Nice case, but small enough to make it suck.

I need to replace the tubing on the return line with something more rigid. The Corsair soft tubing is super soft, which is nice to work with. But, it is too soft and collapses on the return line with both D5 pumps running. I guess the flow is high enough that the tubing is too soft to hold its shape. Also, the way I was planning to power the external radiator pumps and fans didn't work. It couldn't handle the power draw needs. So, I am going to have to use a separate PSU like I did on the MO-RA setup. I ordered a cheap one on Amazon for that and should have it tomorrow. For now, I ran a spare SATA and molex cable from the internal PSU outside of the case for the pumps and fans and have the side panel off to accommodate that until I have the cheap PSU from Amazon.

Here are some photos. Once I have everything the way I want it I will post more. The radiator will be behind the case instead of in front of it like it is at the moment.

The 1080 Nova is a nice setup for the price. It lacks the quality of the MO-RA, but based on price I cannot complain. The housing is both good and bad. I am glad I bought it, but it's kind of rough around the edges (literally). The scratches showing on the desktop were cause by those sharp edges. You get what you pay for in terms of finish quality.

11 hours ago, Etern4l said:

@tps3443 @Mr. Fox Really cool stuff (punt mildly intended). With all said and done optimally, what temp reductions vs equivalent IHS cooling did you achieve after delidding (given equivalent paste on the IHS and same cooling solution)

For the first time ever, for me, none that I can identify. I have always seen measurable benefits (10-20°C cooled in severe overclocks conditions) from it until now. I would love to think that it is because Intel finally mastered the soldering process and totally nailed it, but I'm not certain that there is a reason to believe that. It's very weird that it didn't change anything except avoiding my warranty and an IHS that got damaged (repairable) in the process. I would have been happy even if it were only 5°C cooler. The lack of change is weird and unexplainable. It was very beneficial on 12th Gen.

7 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

 

What are your thoughts on the Pora3? 😁

It looks good and I have no doubt it is going to be great. I won't know with 100% certainty until it is hooked up, but there is no reason to expect anything short of excellent.

Getting ready to swap out the mobo now and pull the pumps and rads out of the 5000D.

Getting a little bit closer. Banshee isn't going to have to swim in his on own radiator farts too much longer.

7 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

This is the solution 100%. ^^^

 

I was already in the process. Before I read your post. I polished the inside up the IHS with Fritz. Sanded down the lip of the IHS so it spun on the die like silk. Then LMed the inner IHS until it was soaked to the max and reach an equilibrium. LMed the die and rubbed it to death so I know it’ll be good and painted on to the die, and it’ll last longer than the life of the chip. I put my adhesive in tiny dabs on the corners and wings then I put it in the relidding clamp. Which does seem to line it up properly at least. 
 

 

 

FWIW I have always had better temps with the stock IHS than I have with the Rockitcool copper IHS. I have used them to avoid destroying the markings on the stock IHS, but the temps are usually a degree or two higher. I always looked at it like I already shaved 10-20°C off the load temps by delidding, so I can  afford to take a step backwards 1 or 2°C for the purpose of keeping the stock IHS like new.

2 hours ago, tps3443 said:

I seriously regret deliding my 13900KF everything went smooth with that, but it’s other stuff that ruins the experience and makes me question that decision. What a waste of time and money this has been. I spent $90 dollars with shipping for a delid tool and IHS to run it the proper way. And Rockitcool is just an idiot for not even test fitting their Copper IHS inside of the bend correction frames to begin with. I mean, they are just complete idiots for selling this stuff at all, do they not realize that people could potentially destroy their processors just by mounting their crap IHS with a thermal right bend frame? No matter what I do, I always end up running something ghetto in the end I swear lol. Delidding my cpu wasn’t enough, I’ve got to file down the pretty copper IHS to make it fit at all. Once I filed it down to make it fit the Bending frame. The bending frame holes do not line up with the motherboard holes. So now I can’t screw down my CPU at all..

 

As always here we are. My cpu is running in my PC, but I have (4) screws in my hand. Can anyone guess what screws those are lol? 
 

 

ROCKITCOOL YOU SUCK! I’m gonna run out of liquid metal continuously removing my cpu and remounting like a crazy person and discovering another issue yet again. 
 

I’m about to ditch the IHS all together and try that. No ILM, no frame, just bare die on block.. That worked great with my past CPU’s. And I have it running at the moment only an IHS and frame that’s not even screwed down under my water block. No memory channel issues, or anything like that. Only my water block presses my cpu down and it’s working on the first try. 

We'll talk about the people that told you that it fits right... How smart are they? Yeah you lost a little bit of money but I think it probably sucks more to be them. Did the delid tool bugger up your stock IHS like it did all of mine? It almost seems like Intel improved their soldering process because delidding helped my 12th Gen processors as much as it did all the prior generations.. 

Just put the stock IHS back on and be done with it.

32 minutes ago, KING19 said:

I decided to update my NVIDIA drivers for once the other day to 526.47 because of the DX12 performance increase in games and my score end up going up a bit lol.

 

 

 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/82673616

 

Tiny, but measurable. https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/32438399/spy/32438674

The people that like SFF computers might appreciate this.

57 minutes ago, johnksss said:

Okay, so maybe a few seconds longer than 5...😂

 

What makes it especially sad pathetic is that the CPU is only clocked at 4.7GHz. 

13 minutes ago, electrosoft said:

 

Very nice! Glad to see the G2 opening up and CR1 to boot!

 

I was thinking of selling my Strix D4 + memory setup too and starting fresh and going full DDR5 finally. We're on the same wavelength (again). 🙂

 

 

My Strix Z690-E is supposed to be delivered today and I will use my spare 32GB of generic green M-die on that system with the 12900KS.

I am debating whether to keep the 2080 Ti FTW3 or sell it. I don't need a third GPU. I shipped it for repair with the hybrid kit installed. Last night I decided to clean up the Vector block while waiting for the GPU to come back and when I got ready to take it apart I noticed a lot of hairline cracks in the plexi around the screws. It wasn't leaking and I doubt it would leak, but it looks like crap. I can't really sell it that way, and it doesn't make sense to buy another block for it. I'm thinking the smart thing would be to sell it and just keep the 3060 Ti. I've already done all the benching I would ever do with the 2080 Ti at this point, and the only reason to keep it would be sentimental, which is kind of silly.

Maybe somebody would want to buy it as a complete package with the 12900K, RAM and D4 mobo.

13 hours ago, tps3443 said:

That’s actually a really nice looking alien ware. I love the styling. But it’s still very NICE.

mmmm... ok. If you say so. 😉 I suspect the people that designed it think so, too.  If not, then they're pretty sadistic. Any consideration for aesthetic preferences aside, their products are exceedingly horrible in terms of build quality and proprietary limitations at a component level. Limited options, built to fail, and availability at their discretion. In every way a fake enthusiast product designed for fake enthusiasts. I think it looks absolutely hideous, but that much is subjective.

The Alienware R13 is easily the worst pre-built gaming PC we've ever reviewed. Dell manages to downclock an i9 to equal an i7 performance instead, yet charges $5000 for the PC. - GamersNexus

31 minutes ago, jaybee83 said:

wow that was fast and smooth! thats awesome man! keep us updated if theres indeed a vid out 😁

Should be fine. As you may recall from his videos, he always tests every repair by maxing stress with Furmark, then runs Heaven, Valley and Superposition before he calls it good. But, I will post if there is any issue.

Well, this is cool. Getting things in order for selling the Strix Z690-A D4 and 12900K and RAM kit, and I found a couple of settings to get the ram stable at DDR4-4400 16-18-18-36 1T. I had to give the IMC and the DIMMs about 0.025mV more juice. I could only get it to boot at 4000 with the 12900K before. Runs great now.

@electrosoft

I did not look outside of Amazon for that liquid metal. Thanks for the link.

7 minutes ago, tps3443 said:

 

Interesting, glad you found that! I have mine installed and running great! I’ve removed it and remounted again. Using LM on the die, LM on the IHS, and LM between the block and IHS. It runs veryyyy cool!!! Very cool. Especially with the chiller. I’ll remove it again tomorrow to check the wings and make sure mine clear it okay. But right now it’s running really well so far. 

It will either take photos or video when I investigate it further so you can take yours apart and do it right. With it not fitting right, you might be bending the CPU the same as the stock ILM, or worse. Hopefully, it will work correctly with a tiny bit of sanding on the wing tips.

I may have to do some measuring with my digital calipers because the Rockitcool IHS and stock IHS look exactly the same eyeballing them.

1 minute ago, tps3443 said:

My whole copper IHS is soaked in it and cold plate lol. Only the Conductonaut branded kind. I put extra because I know how copper likes to drink it.

That is a different liquid metal though. Specs are different.

On the Rockitcool IHS, one more thing... What I need to investigate further is whether the side wings are thicker z-height than stock. If they are, then it is not going to work under any circumstances with the CPU frame. At least I am not willing to risk damage finding out. 

Just now, johnksss said:

Anyone try this one out yet?

https://www.amazon.com/ElecGear-LGA-1700-Anti-Bending-LGA17xx-BCF-Leak-Proof/dp/B09ZPVCKMQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2P5YIAPGG13TR&keywords=contact+frame+lga1700&qid=1668146067&sprefix=contact+frame+lga1700%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-4

 

I just saw if for the first time about an hour ago. I tried to find just the liquid metal and could not find it by itself.

1 hour ago, tps3443 said:

 

@Mr. Fox

 

Did you install your Rockitcool copper IHS yet with the contact frame? When you install it can you check the corners of the IHS? It looks like some corners are nearly flush while other poke up more. It’s kinda weird and makes it seem like it may be uneven. I’m curious to see how yours is. It’s almost like the IHS corners are not even though. 
 

Let me know thanks. 

LOL... I was LITERALLY logging in here to warn you. The Rockitcool IHS does NOT fit the contact frame. The wings on the side are different dimensionally than the stock IHS. I took the bare die frame and bare Rockitcool IHS and put them together and it rocks back and forth on opposite corners. Looking at the underside, it appears that if you sanded down the tips of the wings about 0.25-0.05mm each  it would fit the same as stock and be fine. I will probably check that out tomorrow after work or this weekend. I ordered another Thermalright frame on Amazon that should be here tomorrow as well. The good news is the top of the IHS does fit inside of the opening the same as stock.

I initially thought something was wrong with the IHS. I checked it on glass to confirm it was perfectly flat on the CPU PCB side, then after that is when I dug deeper and saw the wings were overlapping the edges where the frame is cut out for them to rest. If my theory is correct it will be super easy to correct with a bit of light sanding and a few minutes of elbow grease.

Just to be certain, I plan to relid the CPU and test the fit a final time after sanding the wings down, because it could damage the CPU or the socket if you cinched it down without things fitting correctly. If it doesn't fit right I will use the stock ILM or go back to the stock IHS.

Edit: What I need to investigate further is whether the side wings are thicker z-height than stock. If they are, then it is not going to work under any circumstances with the CPU frame. At least I am not willing to risk damage finding out. 

Well, the 2080 Ti is repaired and will be on its way back to me tomorrow. The gentleman from Northwest Repair (Tony) is a standup dude. The one Samsung chip that MATS testing identified as bad was the only thing wrong with it. He had a new one in stock to replace it. Price was very reasonable, and I gave him a little extra because it is worth it to me to reward him for his talent. He recorded the repair. I hope he uploads a video of it.

Doesn't hardinfo (system profiler and benchmark) provide the info?