HP Elitebook 8570W - is it still good ? Hardware modifications

[GuitarG]

18 minutes ago, Daedalus said:

 not to be difficult, UK users cant see IMGUR pictures, so all i see is a blue block.  Awesome progress though. Shame the 8570W journey ends. 

Did anyone uncover the HP LVDS cable pinout diagram? i seem to recall its in an older post (i'll go hunt for it.  Happy to try recreate the cable, just need to get a bundle of LDVS to sacrifice 😄

 

[Daedalus]

On 8/17/2026 at 6:15 PM, GuitarG said:

 

am i assuming from the diagram above no interposer board is needed? just looking at sources for the cables at present. LVDS elitebook ones seem viable on ebay. is there any IPS displays preferred that fit the 8570W lid best (just to focus searches)
Also has anyone got the interposer dreamcolor board cable assembly part number too?

@GuitarG i salute your devotion to the cause and effort so far, a shame the 8570W is retired from your flock.  Enjoy the next challenge 😉

[FrancoTecno]

On 11/17/2025 at 3:30 PM, Vladka76 said:

Interesting. The FBGA code "D9RVX" on your chips means the model name MT41K512M8RG-107:N, officially also 1866 (from the datasheet: the "-107" marking = option "1.07ns@CL=13 (DDR3-1866)"). This chip's frequency is the same as one I've encountered, but the FBGA code on those I've seen was slightly different from this one.
What's preventing good memory chips from running at full speed? Perhaps poor-quality resistor arrays on the data buses (all my original modules have ceramic, white resistor arrays)? Or the firmware on the SPD flash IC? It's sad. This is often the case with the Chinese – they copy almost everything well, but somewhere there's always a flaw that ruins everything...

Another my photo. 🙂 Compare the quality of the sticker on the other side of the two modules (original on top, counterfeit on the bottom). The original has an aluminum base and a black ink printing, while the counterfeit has a paper base and white ink with a low-resolution print. And a resistor arrays are different in color and material...

i leave the official PDF of those DRAM family chips, the -107 revision (D9RVX) are rated for 1866MHz at 13-13-13, a jedec profile that matches with the DRAM oficial specificacion isnt specified in the SPD of these fake DIMMs, so probably you need to adjust primary timings and secondary ones manually to make them working at 1866, right now i managed to make them working at 2133MHz, but i need more research into the official PDF to make a fitable timing table at 2133 according with the oficial specifications of the DRAM modules to avoid stability issues

micron4Gb_DDR3L.pdf

[FrancoTecno]

the SPD data on these chinese modules is pretty uncertain, because the reported latency in miliseconds contained in the SPD is lower than the official specificacion by micron in that PDF... even the jedec profiles are very uncertain because they dont have a 1866MHz jedec profile when the DRAM chips are officially of 1866MHz

[FrancoTecno]

my best now.. i want to increase the dram voltage a little bit to go up to 2400 but i dont find any type of RAM voltage control in my unlocked bios, anyway 2200MHz is very well for DDR3

[MODDER1]

Hi, 

 

the system i worked on so far, "working fine" i would say, its a pure copper plate ajusted to the components of the card, i did dig some cavities for "R22" components in it to allow  a  direct and good contact between the plate and the GPU die of the 980M. At idle i hit 32-33° for the GPU and 46-47° for hot spot with PTM7950, the plate and heatpipe being cool i would say, but then under load the temp continue to spike and hit the 92° limit and the card start to throttle. I think may be its the heatpipes, that i don't cool effectively underload due to a bad alignement with the fins, or not enough heatpipes? And what's happening is that the heat is not pushed outside quick and effectively enough maybe? What you guys think the improvement is there ? 

 

Also, can someone confirm that the hotspot on the GPU is also at the level of the Die? Thanks

[Daedalus]

Nice work, Not bad.  Thats kinda how i was envisaging my dual fan setup to look like. My version was keeping the fan to GPU pipe but also having the inverse like you have for the GPU to second fan. 
assume all LMP solder joints there. why no primary fan to GPU plate heatpipe? GPU maybe overloading 2nd fans ability to exhaust heat 

one question, why not have the 2nd fan nearer the SSD bay? (assume due to heatpipes not working in flipped over layout. 

Also where is your second fan run from, i see the PWM feed from main fain header, but are you using +5v and gnd from DVD? (as 980M install requires a brutal haircut of the DVD port)
i planned on taking feed from USB sub-board (that black plastic covered board bottom left)

on the underside how is fan intake working? i have a round hole in my DVD bay floor and a grille in my access panel now  🙂 

Regards video output is that via internal display on 980M? which Vbios.
How did you bend your heatpipes?

 

Apologies for the critique. love the progress youve made.