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Everything posted by jaybee83
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AliExpress is your best bet then to get even lower prices. but beware, shipping times might be loooooong, so better order sooner rather than later 😅
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ugh that sux, sorry to hear that. what exactly does this tool help u do? just curious.
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dayum, 399 MB ISO size is insane! i love it 😁
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yep, the 3800 kit im using does actually have Samsung B Die chips. so far no access to any RAM tuning, but the plan is to change exactly that with some unicorn magic 😉 havent gotten around yet to using the new bios chip clamp and cable with my programmer, the past few days have been quite busy in real life haha. but the next week should be interesting, plan is to revive the machine from the current black screen via direct bios flash to the chip, then reassemble, repair the current windows install (got shot during our extensive testing lol), make a system backup and then get back to bios tweaking with Prema 🙂
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omg YES! actually stumbled upon this via the latest Techlinked video and wanted to check out the video, thanks for that 😄
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no worries, also got our fun corner for desktop lovers here 🙂 every tech head is welcome here!
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*Official Benchmark Thread* - Post it here or it didn't happen :D
jaybee83 replied to Mr. Fox's topic in Desktop Hardware
this made me smile... crypto can crash and burn for all i care 😁 -
oh this is a dream come true for the likes of @Papusan and @Mr. Fox, remove the GUI altogether and run everything from command line, lets get that last cpu and ram cycle squeezed out! 😁
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welcome back dude! and yes, the NBR die hards / core members have reported for duty here at NBT 🙂
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cpu die to copper ihs - liquid metal copper ihs to heatsink - regular paste (going with kryonaut) since its not my own machine i dont like to mess around with liquid metal on top of the ihs, just a precaution. nevertheless, i still expect a significant temperature drop 🙂 btw, the bios clamp and cable is arriving today, wooooo!
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introduction MXM to NVMe Adapter upgrade
jaybee83 replied to Azther's topic in Alienware 18 and M18x
yeah unfortunately thats usually the way it goes with aging tech: cpus are built like tanks and dont give out so easily, but motherboards are way more fragile, so while the cost of cpus goes steadily down, the cost of mobos actually increases due to rarity....- 64 replies
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ha yeah, word on the street is that even with direct-to-production-floor connections ull look at a unit price of 3500 USD (wouldnt surprise me if that was without taxes lol)
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sure man, always happy to help 🙂 btw, one additional note on the copper IHS: i didnt relid it, its just being held down by the socket clamp. easier to maintain and swap out in the future, but the clamp force is high enough to keep it in place without risk of wiggling around!
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the keyboard is actually quite straight forward, u just need to remove a few screws on the downside of the machine (dont remember if it was like 2 or 3, but theyre labeled with KB), then take a very thin flathead screwdriver to unlatch the plastic hooks keeping the keyboard in place on the upper side of the KB. then just remove two cables and thats it!
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aaand here we go, cpu copper ihs upgrade completed and installed: as you can see, the machine is still disassembled for now, so unfortunately I cannot provide any before/after performance yet. as mentioned before, im waiting on the bios chip clamp & cable so i can reprogram the cmos before reassembling the machine. in any case, this was a fun little distraction to pass the time! 🙂
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alrighty folks, finished the copper IHS upgrade today, here are the steps & pics: borrowed some nail polish from my lady to cover the SMDs inside the IHS area, taped down the CPU into the delidding kit and applied a dab of the solder removal liquid (likely some kind of indium mix similar but not matching liquid metal pastes). i let it soak for a few minutes, then "rubbed" it in with a cotton swab to properly remove the solder. repeated this step total of 3 times, it only takes a tiny bit of the solder remover each time! this is after the first step, you can still see some solder left: next up, apply a tiny bit of the blitz polishing agent onto the die to completely remove the last solder bits and polish the cpu die to a shine. again repeated this step like 3-4 times, until the die looked completely clean. this was after the first polishing step with the second dab of polisher applied: aaand this is what a nicely delidded and cleaned up cpu die looks like. in the meantime, i also cleaned up the copper IHS which I left overnight with a layer of liquid metal to soak up the copper pores: the rest is pretty standard, apply liquid metal to both the CPU die and copper IHS, then install into the machine. im using gallinstan which is available SUPER cheaply on fleabay and provides the same performance as high-cost metal pastes like CLU or conductonaut: have to start a new post due to file size restrictions...
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thats the 12600. ill wait for meteor lake to come out before i snap a 13900K for my lady as an upgrade, by then prices should have come down considerably haha. for now the aim is to max out the 12600, get the ram tuned (currently at SPD 2400) and max out the gpu (core not adjustable yet). then in the fall when i switch to desktop ill give her my 970 pro 1TB, i think thatll be a fine little machine for her needs 🙂
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at least not YET 😄
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u might want to try older versions of the power manager, might be that the current version have a minimum windows version requirement inbuilt. the only issues ive had so far with ltsc 2019 based on w10 1809 were such instances.
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btw guys, i thought id leave this here 😁 Notes: - heated up the IHS with a hair dryer set to max setting for 60 seconds - the popping came pretty quick, but the force required was quite substantial (original IHS is still good, no visible dents) - once the IHS pops, itll still stick to the package, DONT take it off like a latch (upward motion perpendicular to the package), rather turn n twist it (sideways motion in parallel to the package) to reduce the risk of disattaching the cpu die from the package 😅 - saturating the inner side of the copper IHS with liquid metal overnight now lets get to the tedious chore of removing the silicone glue from the cpu package....ugh edit: ok, took me roughly an hour for the glue removal, the included wooden pick in the rockit cool kit actually helped a lot here! enough for today, ill continue with the indium solder removal tomorrow...
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oh we know, thats not the point haha. point is to get the max performance out of that chip without throttling or overheating 😛 admittedly, the tweaking headroom is not that vast with the 12600 but there is still considerable performance to be had. @GT3000 here is the TS config (full folder) with Profile 1 for High Performance, Profile 3 for travel psu adapter (max. 90-100W power draw) and profile 4 for battery (max power savings everything) Throttlestop NH55JNNQ 12600.zip
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ha sure, but ill have to rummage around in the system ssd externally since the machine is currently still in pieces 😋 also be mindful that with those tweaks the cpu will run much hotter and will likely impact battery life.
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