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Maxware79

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Everything posted by Maxware79

  1. Yeah you need to follow the directions exactly. No need to remove the CMOS battery or RAM for the blind flash. If it doesn't work then the BIOS probably won't be the problem, quite possible that the board is proper bricked.
  2. I'm not sure why only the A03 BIOS would work with the M18x R2. The same process on the M17x R4 works with any BIOS version, as far as I know. I usually do the A05 one but I've done it with other versions. All the other processes look exactly the same as the M17x R4 and it's good that the filename is M18R2, that was just a guess on my part. You really have to following the instructions perfectly or you risk a permanent brick.
  3. Well one of my best mates is heading back here to visit his dad in October. I'll get him to throw it in his bag....
  4. Ahh that sucks. I'd love to get my hands on it and give it a good test.
  5. I have some spares but I'm in Australia so it makes things more difficult. You've definitely tried the CMOS connector pin trick? It really sounds like it could just be a BIOS issue so doing those steps right should clear it.
  6. I've never messed with those settings so I'm not sure what happened to you. Usually a CMOS reset by bridging the connector pins would fix most BIOS errors. Don't do the flash method unless you really have to. I have no idea if it will work and it could do more damage.
  7. So the process to blind flash the M17x R4 was the following. Attempt this at your own risk, as a last resort. The only difference should be what you call the hdr file. Based on the M17x R4 being M17R4, the M18x R2 should be M18R2 but I can't confirm that. - Go to Dell and download the BIOS version you want. - Right click on the downloaded file and extract the files with WinRAR - Once extracted, find a file named something like QBR00EC.fd - Rename it to M17R4.hdr (I'm assuming that with the M18x R2 you would rename it M18R2.hdr - Use RUFUS to format a bootable USB drive - Put the hdr file on the USB - Unplug the adapter and battery from the laptop - insert the USB into the eSata port (not standard USB) - Hold the END key while inserting the power adapter - This should initialise the flash. Release the END key - It will Beep like crazy for a fair while. Walk away until you don't hear it beeping anymore. - Cross your fingers and attempt to turn it on, hopefully it works. You will probably get a 5 beep CMOS error the first time.
  8. So you did the CMOS pin bridge to reset the BIOS? If this didn't work then the chances are you've bricked the motherboard. You could try a BIOS recovery flash. I've never attempted it on the M18x R2 but I've done it successfully on the M17x R4 a few times and they are very similar machines. I had the process saved on the Alienowners forum but that's been down for a few days (no idea why). The original guide on how to do it was on NBR so it should be in the archive here. Have you booted without the dedicated GPU installed? The 900M series usually need UEFI mode to boot in PEG mode so if you've reset the BIOS then it's possible it reverted back to Legacy so you'll get a black screen during boot.
  9. There was a fix on TechInferno for this issue with the M17x R3. There were a number of steps to do in the right order to get it working again Can't seem to find the thread right now
  10. @TheQuentincc if you're still looking to buy one of these, I think there is a guy on our Discord server looking to sell one. It has an X9000 and SLI 9800GT. https://discord.gg/83k5W8eS
  11. I have zero experience with this old one but I would say that you have no chance at a Maxwell or Pascal card based on the restrictions that later models had. There aren't too many people who'd still have one of these laptops laying around so it may be hard to find good information.
  12. Well I never expected a new DLC after all this time! I may have to start making time for gaming again.
  13. I replied to your DM before taking a look at this. Looks like your ID line is right. You also have to add the String at the bottom of the inf NVIDIA_DEV.13D8.0551.1028 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M" The other two major reasons for your error are; 1. Not disabling Driver Signature Enforcement directly before trying to run the installer 2. Not inserting your ID line into the correct Operating System group in the .inf. - The newest drivers have Windows 10 and 11 support so there are two lists of ID's in the .inf. Place your ID line into both lists so you know your OS is covered. If you find the first list then put your ID line into it and then scroll down and you'll find that the list will start again so you have to add it to this list as well. EDIT: The line above isn't right, didn't see it the first time %NVIDIA_DEV.13D8.0551.1028% = Section018, PCI\VEN_13D8&DEV_13D8&SUBSYS_05511028 You added 13D8 where it should have stayed as 10DE (before &DEV_) It should read %NVIDIA_DEV.13D8.0551.1028% = Section018, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_13D8&SUBSYS_05511028
  14. @aldarxt The screw mounts are in different locations between the M18x R2 and AW18. Both the images you've posted are for the AW18 (M18x R3) See how the screws are pretty much in a perfect square below. The AW18 screws are off-set, as per your images.
  15. The heatsinks are very close but not quite the same. One is slightly longer than the other. I have heard someone putting a 17 R1 heatsink into an M17x R4 so maybe it works that way but not the other. I can do a comparison photo when I get a chance to show the slight difference.
  16. Unfortunately you can't do that. If the system doesn't detect the internal display then you'll get the 8 beep error. If you have the 120hz display then the 8 beep error is usually the GPU since it runs the display but it could still be an issue with the display or display cable. If you have the 60hz display then the 8 beep error is more than likely the display or the cable. Like receiver said, it could also be a BIOS setting. I've tried an M3000M in a 17 with the 120hz panel and also got 8 beeps. Sometimes the display cable can come out of the back of the LCD panel just from moving the laptop. It may even look like it's plugged in properly when it isn't. Other than trying another GPU, I would check this connection. You can remove the LCD lid without removing the whole assembly so it can be easy to check. Open the LCD as much as you can and you will see two screws partially hidden in the hinge area. Remove these screws and you can slide the lid off. Close the lid and push down slightly and slide it towards the Alien head side of the lid. Once it's off you can see the display cable connection. Be very careful and DO NOT pull up on the cable, it slides down and out. It's usually protected with tape and plastic so just pull this away and remove the cable and then slide it back in. Put the tape back and test.
  17. Usually with a CMOS error you can do a hard shutdown while it's beeping and restart and it will boot fine. Of course it will throw up the error when you go to use it again later though. The error shouldn't have anything to do with the GPU you are using. It should only mean that the CMOS battery is dead
  18. Thanks. I've thought about this many times over the years. I've even looked into buying some heatsink pipes and bending them myself. Now that I have the NVMe adapter in the second slot doesn't really work though.
  19. Aetina cards are notoriously troublesome. Use DDU to remove any NVidia drivers. Does the card cause any bluescreens without a driver installed? If it's a GeForce card then you shouldn't have any need to edit a Quadro driver. With the driver removed, check GPU-Z for the vBIOS version and we'll see if there's a more suitable one.
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